This is day three of our Soap Crafting-inspired tutorials, and I’m particularly excited about this one because the result is visually stunning. This soap incorporates real Yellow Beeswax, which gives the finished soap a translucent and shiny texture. It also utilizes a fun spoon plop technique, which is easy to do and results in something that almost looks like an In-The-Pot-Swirl. The fragrance combo of our best-selling Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil and Black Cherry Fragrance Oil is dessert-like and sweet, and topping this soap off with a little gold mica gives it an elegant look. This is an advanced tutorial because of the beeswax addition so don’t soap this one until you’ve got a few recipes under your belt. It’s worth the wait =)
What You’ll Need:
3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
2.8 oz. Yellow Beeswax
.7 oz. Cocoa Butter
7 oz. Coconut Oil
3.5 oz. Hazelnut Oil
8.75 oz. Olive Oil
8.75 oz. Canola Oil
4.5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
11.5 oz. distilled water
2 teaspoons Cocoa Powder
Fragrance blend of: 1.5 Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil and .6 oz. Black Cherry Fragrance Oil
Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart! I didn’t put this awesome silicone spoon/spatula combo into the kit but that’s what I used in this tutorial. I highly recommend it.
If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic and intermediate recipes under your belt before attempting this advanced recipe. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety. Bramble Berry carries quite a few books on the topic as well, including my brand new book Soap Crafting in which you’ll find a ton of great info for new soapers and veterans alike.
FRAGRANCE PREP: In a glass container, combine 1.5 oz. Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil and .6 oz. Black Cherry Fragrance Oil. Set aside.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that lasts longer in the shower and releases faster from the mold, you can add Sodium Lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of Sodium Lactate per pound of oils in the recipe.
TWO: Melt and combine the Coconut Oil and Cocoa Butter. Add the Sweet Almond, Hazelnut, Olive, and Canola Oils and the Yellow Beeswax. Heat the mixture until the Beeswax has melted entirely. Melting the Beeswax in the oils facilitates even distribution of heat for optimum melting. This oil wax mixture is very hot – above 160 degrees to keep the wax melted. Be careful removing it from the microwave or stove.
Note: Beeswax has a high melting point and tends to harden very quickly. This is an expert-level cold process recipe, and you’ll need to keep your oils above 170 degrees and work quickly to prevent the mixture from clumping.
THREE: Pour the lye into the oils and stir gently with a spatula or spoon. Switch to a stick blender and gently pulse until thin trace.
FOUR: Split the batch in half. In the first container, add two teaspoons of Cocoa Powder for color. Mix using a spoon or spatula. Leave the other portion uncolored.
FIVE: Add half of the fragrance oil to each of the portions, and mix well using a spoon or spatula.
SIX: Starting with the brown soap, use a spoon to plop three mounds of brown soap across the mold. Follow with three plops of uncolored soap, directly on top of the brown soap. Repeat this process, layering mounds of brown soap on top of uncolored soap, until you fill the mold. Tamp the mold intermittently on the table to eliminate any air bubbles. The Square Silicone Spoon/Spatula combo is ideal for this project.
SEVEN: Once all the batter has been plopped into the mold use a spoon or mini spatula to gently form two small ridges running from end to end in the middle of the mold.
EIGHT: Using a chopstick or dowel (or, in my case a dropper!), make tiny looping swirls on the top of both of the ridges. This will created a nice, swirled texture on the top of the soap.
NINE: To put the finishing touches on this soap, use your gloved hands or a powder duster to sprinkle Sparkle Gold Mica across the top of the mold. Then, gently blow on the mica to press it into the soap batter. Be careful because this part can get messy! Be sure to have 99% Isopropyl Alcohol on hand to clean up any mica spills.
Unmold the soap after 4 -7 days and then allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy your busy bee soap!
jamie says
Can you substitute beeswax for a vegan alternative such as candellia or caranuba?
Kelsey says
Hi Jamie!
We haven’t tested those waxes in this soap before, so I’m not entirely sure how well they work! I would recommend adding around the same amount and keeping those temperatures high to keep them melted. A small test batch would be really helpful to see how they perform.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Candelilla wax: https://www.brambleberry.com/Candelilla-Wax-P4207.aspx
Amanda says
Hi guys, I have have come up with my own recipe that uses Coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, avocado oil and 3.5% beeswax. But I wanted to also add honey and some pollen, as well as BB’s honey and oatmeal fragrance oil (as it is a honey themed soap) Do you think using both honey and beeswax will make the soap heat up too much. I was planning to chuck it in the freeze straight away like I do milk soap to prevent overheating. But I am a little nervous about it as I don’t want to waste a whole batch of soap. I know I might have to try it to find out, but I am just interested in your thoughts?
Kelsey says
Hi Amanda!
I think as long as you put the soap in the freezer it should be OK! Because you’re soaping at hotter temperatures with beeswax and adding honey, which has natural sugar, that soap will get pretty hot. I would recommend making a small test batch and popping it in the freezer for 24 hours. That way you can see if it overheats before making a full batch.
Also, that soap sounds lovely! Oatmeal Milk and Honey is such a warm, comforting scent. I love it!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Oatmeal-Milk-And-Honey-Fragrance-Oil-P3931.aspx
Amanda says
Hi Kelsey
Thanks for you advice. I made a small trial batch and it turned out well. I was really nervous about it. When I make a large batch I will put an instagram picture up and # tag bramble berry.
The funny thing is I made a coffee, walnut and brown sugar soap the next day and I got a volcano in my freezer. I have read about them but it was the first time i have ever experienced one. I used beeswax again (to avoid palm oil), but i also used a bit of Cinnamon Sugar fragrance (along with espresso) and actual brown sugar. So I am not sure if the beeswax, hot temperature, sugar and the spices in the fragrance all were too much. I hadn’t really consider all of this prior to making the soap, so wasn’t expecting it ha! All a good learning experience I guess
Kelsey says
So glad to hear that test batch turned out well! Can’t wait to see the finished product.
Also, I’m sorry to hear about the volcano! I’ve seen one before, it’s an interesting sight for sure. I think you’re correct – the combination of beeswax and sugar can definitely heat up quite a bit. It is a great learning experience though!
You can adjust the recipe to include less sugar. If you’re using actual coffee for the lye liquid, you can freeze it before adding your lye as well. That keeps it cooler. However, it may want to solidify that beeswax! It may take a bit of tweaking to get it just right.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Leanne says
I add beeswax to most of my soaps at 1% of the oils, which really helps them pop out of the individual molds (I also add sodium lactate and sometimes 1% stearic acid). While it takes high temperatures to get the wax melted, it does not clump when it cools to warm, and the oils stay clear and liquid (usually a combination of coconut, tallow/palm, olive, cocoa butter, hemp, soy and castor). Basically, I soap as usual, with no problems (I don’t measure my temps; if the lye water and oil containers feel “lukewarm”, I mix). Beeswax appears to be about 8% of your recipe. Have you tried letting the oils cool a bit? Does the wax start to harden? Also curious about the cocoa powder. Does it make for brown bubbles? Is it exfoliating? Or does it stay smooth?
Just curious! I love the shine of this soap, and would like to try a batch with a higher percentage of beeswax.
Kelsey says
Hi Leanne!
That sounds like an awesome recipe! In our tests and recipes, we’ve found cooler temperatures make that beeswax harden up on us. Soaping around 160F or higher has given us the best results, but everybody’s preferences are a bit different!
Also, cocoa powder is a fine powder. It adds a beautiful brown color, but no scrubbiness. Also, cocoa powder can create brown bubbles if too much is used. This recipe had nice clear bubbles.
Dutch processed cocoa powder: https://www.brambleberry.com/Dutch-Processed-Cocoa-Powder-P5537.aspx
Hope you get a chance to try the recipe!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Leanne says
Thanks for the information on a new colorant! Looking forward to trying the recipe.
Joy says
Can I substitute anything for the hazelnut oil? I don’t have anything on hand. Thanks!
Amanda says
Hi Joy!
You sure could :). You have a lot of options regarding what to switch it with, I would recommend taking a look at the blog post below, and finding an oil with a similar usage rate. We recommend using Hazelnut Oil at 15% or less in your recipes. Some good alternatives would be Grapeseed Oil, Meadowfoam Oil, or Sweet Almond Oil. Make sure to run the recipe through the lye calculator again to ensure you have the right amount of lye and water
Guide to Common Soapmaking Oils and Butters:
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Amanda says
Hi Sly!
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear this recipe didn’t work out for you! This recipe can be a little tricky because of the beeswax content. I’m happy to hear you were able to save it for the most part :). You’re right, it probably wasn’t the fragrance oil. It may be a temperature issue, volcanoes can occur when your soap is really hot, and because the beeswax requires a lot of heat to melt…this could have been what led to your volcano! It’s always the “easy” recipes that surprise us, right?
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Sly says
Thanks Amanda…I think you are right on – I have found some info on the web that says using beeswax can cause the soap to really heat up – and I was starting really hot to begin with. (Wish I would have read that before!!)
I’m still calling this a win, and think in spite of it, the recipe did work. The soap looks pretty nice and smells divine.
Thanks again for being there!!
Sly says
I just made this recipe today – it seemed fast and easy. Ha! Ha! Then I turned my back on my 3 lb mold to put the leftovers and scraps in some little molds. When I went back to my loaf, it had started volcano-ing in the center. I immediately put it in the freezer – it was on a roll and kept going for a while, but finally stopped. I was able to “tap” it hard numerous times and it all settled back down. I’m keeping it in the freezer, but it’s now got a bit of a crater down the middle and two cracks lengthwise. I was glad I was able to save it (so far!!). I was definitely surprised.
The only change I made to the recipe was using Chipotle Caramel FO instead of Black Cherry, but I don’t really think that’s the culprit…It was Murphy’s Law, as I thought it was so easy-peasy!! Ha!!
Sly says
RE: Busy Beeswax Soap Tutorial Aug 15, 2013:
I love the idea of this Beeswax CP soap…
Question: Can I line my mold with bubble wrap to get a bee hive design on the soap? Or will soaping at these high temps (160-170 degrees) be too hot and melt the bubble wrap?
I recall seeing a tutorial using bubble wrap and heavy mica on it, which transferred to the soap and gave it a really nice look (used both on the top & bottom of the soap), but I have looked everywhere and can not find the instructions…other than in SQ M&P tutorials.
Thanks!!
Amanda says
Hi there!
Good question. It sounds like you are wanting to do something similar to this blog post!
Honeycomb Melt and Pour:
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/melt-and-pour-soap/honeycomb-melt-and-pour/
Unfortunately, I would not recommend using this technique with cold process because the hot temperatures could certainly cause the plastic to melt. I hope this helps
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Deena says
Hi
I am also new at soaping, and looking at different recipes you have on your website.I like the way this one looks and will add it to my Recipe List. I have all the ingredients except for the beeswax.
Do you have to use beeswax or can you omit it?
Amanda says
Hi Deena!
We added Beeswax to this recipe in order to give it a nice sheen. Because of the beeswax addition, it is considered a more advanced recipe. If you are new to soaping, I would give a different recipe a try first. Unfortunately you cannot simply remove the wax without effecting how your soap will set up.
If you’re looking for a few easier cold process recipes, I would recommend these!
Cherry Blossom Cold Process Tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/cherry-blossom-glitter-cold-process/
Lab Color Ombre Soap: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/business-in-a-box-sunset-ombre-soap/
Both of these recipes features the Lots of Lather Quick Mix, which is a premade oil combination that will give you a bar with plenty of bubbles and a rich lather! That way you don’t have to worry about combining your oils…that step is already done for you!
Lots of Lather Quick Mix: https://www.brambleberry.com/Lots-of-Lather-Quick-Mix-P5524.aspx
I hope this gives you some ideas
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Dawnia Radig says
Hi,
Just wondering if the beeswax makes this bar harder, aka easier to get out of the mold? I make a triple butter soap, with no sodium lactate it unmolds like a dream after 24 hours. Also great on the skin!!
Going to try this soon, tho, looks great!
Amanda says
Hi Dawnia!
The beeswax definitely results in a harder bar, and because of this will probably make it easier to remove from the mold. Your triple butter soap sounds awesome! If you give this soap a try, I’d love to see photos on our Facebook page
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Diane says
I just did my first batch of this soap. I noticed as soon as I added my lye mixture to my oils it was cooling too fast. That lead to my layers being too big to rush things along. It was like stiff gravy when I got to the final layer. I’m not sure how to correct the problem. I watched my lye temp. It maxed out at 174. Can you help? I’m on a mission to get this soap perfected.
Thanks
Diane
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Good morning, Diane!
We are so excited that you have started soaping and can’t wait to help you out. Could you tell us a bit more about the recipe that you were working with — including the fragrance and/or essential oils you were working with? The more we know, the more we can help troubleshoot what happened with your batch! =)
-Becky with Bramble Berry
Karen Casabianca says
Made this soap last week. I’m a newbie to soaping and to on this challenge. Only four batches under my belt. Read the step by step instruction numerous times, then took the plunge. They came out great!
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Good morning, Karen!
Congrats on making this soap! We’d love to hear more about your soaping adventures and if you have a chance to take some photos, we’d love to see how your soaps look. You can share them with us Bramble Berry’s Facebook page.
Happy Soaping!
-Becky with Bramble Berry
https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry
Somer says
I’m fairly new to soaping and I’d love to try this recipe but I do not have the hazelnut oil on hand. Is there another oil I can use instead?
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Good morning, Somer!
If you do not have the Hazelnut Oil on hand, you can use another fixed oil like Jojoba or a little extra Sweet Almond Oil.
Jojoba Oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Jojoba-Oil-Golden-P3219.aspx
Sweet Almond Oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sweet-Almond-Oil-P3205.aspx
Be sure to run your recipe through the lye calculator again to make sure you have the correct lye water amounts.
Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
I hope that this helps! Let us know if you have any other questions. =)
Happy Soaping!
-Becky with Bramble Berry
Somer says
Thanks Becky! This is very helpful.
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Hi Somer!
Be sure to let us know how your batch turns out, and if you get any photos of your project, we would love for you to share them with us on Bramble Berry’s Facebook page. =)
Happy Soaping!
-Becky with Bramble Berry
https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry?ref=hl
Pam says
That looks amazing! chocolate and hazelnuts in a gold wrapper, do you see it?
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Hi Pam!
I totally see it, and I know you could come up with a yummy blend of chocolate and hazelnut. I would suggest Dark Rich Chocolate and Hazelnut Toffee! If you get a chance to make this soap, be sure to share pictures with us on Bramble Berry’s Facebook page. =)
Hazelnut Toffee: https://www.brambleberry.com/Hazelnut-Toffee-Fragrance-Oil-P5111.aspx
Dark Rich Chocolate: https://www.brambleberry.com/Dark-Rich-Chocolate-Fragrance-Oil-P3881.aspx
Happy Soaping!
-Becky with Bramble Berry
https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry
ankhanang says
Can we mix Lye solution into oil and bee wax melted at 170 degrees ? Should Lye and oils with bee wax be the same temperature degrees when we mix them ?
Thank you in advance for your answer
Becky with Bramble Berry says
Good morning!
When adding your Beeswax into this recipe, you will need to melt it with your oils, and this will make the mixture very hot (above 160 degrees to keep the wax melted). Once you’ve melted your oils, make sure your lye water is still within 10 degrees and you can start soaping. This is a more advanced cold process recipe, so you will have to work fast because of the higher temperatures. I hope this helps! =)
Happy Soaping!
-Becky with Bramble Berry
Veronika says
Great tutorial! Is there any reason why to wait 4-7 days before unmolding? If unmolded earlier -will it be partially gelled?
Kristen with Bramble Berry says
It’s the nature of silicone molds to not want to let the soap go very quickly. It’s not a matter of whether or not it will gel (that is a temperature thing) but rather the tight vacuum seal that is created by the silicone. If you attempt to unmold early, you risk the soap still being quite soft and sticky, thus sticking to the inside of the mold and not creating that shiny finish that silicone is known for. However, there is a bit of a cheat code: Sodium Lactate! Add 1 teaspoon Sodium Lactate per pound of oils to cooled lye water, and this tends to help your soap ready itself for unmolding faster.
Kristen with Bramble Berry
https://www.brambleberry.com/Sodium-Lactate-P5127.aspx
Gail Weir says
H! Where does one acquire all the chemicals and supplies for soap-making?i
Kelsey says
Hi Gail!
You can find everything you need at brambleberry.com.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Sly says
Does the scent of the yellow beeswax survive the soaping or does it dissipate?
Kristen with Bramble Berry says
I can’t detect any notes of beeswax in the final soap. It’s used at such a tiny percentage that I really don’t think the natural scent stands a chance! If you’re looking to enhance this project with something reminiscent of the scent of beeswax, you might want to try Honey Beeswax Fragrance Oil. It will discolor much darker than the Oatmeal Milk and Honey + Black Cherry blend did, so be sure to take that into consideration. =)
Kristen with Bramble Berry
https://www.brambleberry.com/Honey-Beeswax-Fragrance-Oil-P5237.aspx
Pam says
Wow! I’m feeling inspired! love the look of that soap. Can’t wait to try
Kristen with Bramble Berry says
Yay! We’d love to see some pics if you get the chance to visit our Facebook page. It’s just as inspirational to see how creative the blog’s readers are!
Kristen with Bramble Berry
https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry
Andrea Edgar says
Whenever I’m lacking motivation, I know this blog will cheer me up and get me inspired to soap again. This soap is gorgeous!!! I can’t wait to try this out!! =)
Kristen with Bramble Berry says
That is too sweet Andrea! Let us know how it goes for you. I’d love to see a picture if you get a chance to stop by the Facebook page after you make it =)
Kristen with Bramble Berry
https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry
Sly says
This looks wonderful!!
At what temperature is your lye water when you add it to the 170 degree oils? I’ve always been advised to have the two within 10 degrees of each other.
Do you have some other scent combos that would work well? I’m assuming that the scent of the beeswax will come through the soaping, or does that dissipate?
Thank for the great toutorial!
Anne-Marie says
The lye water and oils within 10 degrees of each other is something that many soapers adhere to. I’m a bit more loose with it (though in my new book suggest 20 degrees). I think you’ll be good at within 30 degrees and the lye water naturally gets up to 140 really easily. =)
Oh any dessert-y scent or vanilla would be amazing – Vanilla Select, Chai Tea, Chocolate …. oh yum! Anything in this section would be amazing: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sweet-C170.aspx