Properly storing your soapy creations extends the amount of time the product looks and feels its best. For cold process soap, proper storage includes plenty of air flow. On the other hand, melt and pour soap should be wrapped immediately. Improper storage can promote dreaded orange spots, faded colors and glycerin dew. Luckily, it’s easy to prevent these problems with a little know-how.
How products should be stored largely depends on what the product is made of, and the shelf life of the ingredients. For nearly all bath and beauty products, it’s best to store them in a dry and cool place. Excessive moisture in the air can promote DOS (read more about DOS here) and cause bath bombs to prematurely fizz. Extreme heat can cause melt and pour (or even cold process) soap to melt, and the texture of lotions and balms to change. If placed in direct sunlight, soapy colors and fragrances may fade. If you live in a hot climate, find the coolest and darkest area of your home to store your products. If you battle humidity in your area, some crafters invest in a dehumidifier to help reduce the amount of moisture in the air.
How to Store Cold Process Soap
After removing cold process soap from the mold and cutting it into bars, the soap needs to cure for four to six weeks. During this time the water used in the recipe evaporates. Cured soap has a firmer texture and lasts longer in the shower. While curing, soap should be stored in a cool, dry and well ventilated space. If the moisture cannot escape while curing, the chance for dreaded orange spots increases (click here to learn more about DOS).
Here at Bramble Berry, we use large bakers racks to cure cold process soap. The racks allow the bars to come in contact with lots of air, which speeds up the cure time. If using a rack to cure soap, be sure the metal is coated. Metal rust can contribute to soap rancidity. Ideally, soap should have air flow even after the four to six week cure time. Many soapers have two bakers racks; one for soap that is curing, and one for fully cured soap.
Baker’s racks ensure that cold process soap gets lots of air flow during the curing process.
If you don’t have the space for two bakers racks, you can place fully cured soap into storage bins. Just keep in mind that soap stored in a closed container is more likely to develop DOS due to the possible moisture in the container. This year, we have started saving one cold process bar from each tutorial after they have finished curing. These soaps are stored in a storage bin with the lid unsecured to give the soap a small amount of air flow.
Once cold process soap is fully cured, it can be transferred to storage bins.
Once the soap has fully cured, it’s ready to package. Packaging soap before it is fully cured promotes DOS due to the moisture not being able to evaporate. Many soapers like to package their soap right before selling to ensure soap comes in contact with lots of air beforehand.
How to Store Melt and Pour Soap
While cold process soap should have contact with lots of air, melt and pour soap needs to be wrapped immediately. Melt and pour base contains added glycerin which allows it to melt. Glycerin is a natural humectant and attracts moisture in the air. After melt and pour is removed from the mold, the glycerin immediately starts pulling moisture from the air. This moisture forms what is referred to as “glycerin dew” on the surface of the soap. Glycerin dew looks just like it sounds: small, dew drop-like pockets of moisture on top of the soap.
Wrap melt and pour soap in plastic wrap as soon as it fully cools and hardens to prevent glycerin dew.
Glycerin is great for the skin. The natural humectant properties help skin attract moisture from the air, keeping skin hydrated. But, glycerin dew is a cosmetic issue when it comes to melt and pour soap. Once the melt and pour is completely hard and cool, remove it from the mold. Then, wrap the melt and pour in plastic wrap immediately to prevent glycerin dew. Check out the Soap Queen TV video below for a how-to on wrapping melt and pour soap using plastic wrap. If you’d like to learn more about glycerin dew and how to prevent it, check out this blog post.
Once the melt and pour soap is fully wrapped, the glycerin cannot attract moisture. Store the melt and pour in a dry, cool place until you’re ready to use. Melt and pour soap starts to melt around 120° F, so be sure the soap does not reach extremely hot temperatures.
Placing melt and pour soap into the fridge for a few minutes can aid in removing it from the mold. But, melt and pour soap should not be stored in the fridge or freezer for long periods of time. Extremely cold temperatures can cause the soap to become brittle. Placing melt and pour in the fridge or freezer can also cause glycerin dew. It’s best to allow the soap to harden at room temperature, remove from the mold, wrap and store at room temperature.
How to Store Bath Bombs
Bath bombs require a very dry climate. Moisture in the air can cause bath bombs to prematurely fizz. If you live in a humid climate and create bath bombs, a dehumidifier can help preserve the fizzies. A dry climate also helps while making the fizzies; making fizzies on a wet Pacific Northwest days can be a little tricky!
Like most bath and beauty products, bath fizzies are usually stored in the bathroom. Storing the fizzies in an airtight container can help protect them from excess moisture. Another option is to wrap them in plastic wrap to seal out the moisture. Plastic wrap and jars also catch crumbles that may fall off the fizzies. Bath fizzy crumbles can then be used on their own, or used to make this bath fizzy project. Remember to always allow the fizzies to fully dry before wrapping and packaging.
Storing bath fizzies in an airtight jar can help protect them from excess moisture.
How to Store Lotions, Balms & Scrubs
Any scrub, lotion or beauty product that has water added to it has the potential to grow mold and bacteria. No matter how lotion or products containing water are stored, it’s important to use a preservative to prevent bacteria and mold growth. Click here and here to learn more about the different types of preservatives and how to use them. When storing lotion, it’s important to keep temperatures cool. Extremely hot temperatures can cause the emulsification can break, or the texture can change. Lotion containing milk has a very short shelf life, as little as 6 weeks, due to the nature of fresh milk. Milk lotion should be stored in the fridge to increase the shelf life. Even when stored in the fridge, it’s important to remember that milk goes rancid quickly.
If your lotion, balm or scrub contains water, always include a preservative to prevent mold and bacterial growth. Click here to learn more about preservatives.
Because scrubs are usually used in the shower, this is normally where they are stored. Scrubs made with 100% oil do not require a preservative because water is necessary for mold and bacterial growth. Many crafters include a preservative in oil-based scrubs because water may be inadvertently introduced into it during normal bathing and showering. To err on the side of caution, I recommend adding Phenonip or Optiphen to scrubs not containing water. Balms made completely out of oils and butters are extremely heat sensitive, and are best stored in a cool and dry place.
No matter what kind of product you are making, it’s important to take proper precautions to further the shelf life and appearance. After all, you want your awesome project to last as long as possible! Ideally, the room where you keep your creations should be dry and cool. Avoid extreme temperatures of any kind. Package and wrap your products when appropriate; melt and pour should be wrapped immediately, while other products need time to dry.
How do you store your products? I would love to hear any suggestions or tips you may have!
I’m using candy bags on my melt and pour soaps. Will thus work the same as wrapping them with saran wrap?
Thanks.
Maureen
As long as the bags are airtight they will work just fine. If not, the soap can form glycerin dew in between the bag. Learn more about glycerin dew and how to prevent it here: http://www.soapqueen.com/personal-ramblings/augh-whats-that-all-over-my-soap-2/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
My CP soaps cure in an open cardboard box and I turn them every couple of days. Then I wrap them just before a show. I use squares of white tissue paper and a patterned tissue paper. White paper to the inside against the soap, don’t want any color transfer. I always store in a cardboard box to absorb any moisture. Haven’t had any problems.
That sounds like a great system. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! I have an issue with bath bombs. I make my bath bombs using essential oils and then wrap them in a layer of plastic wrap and then tissue paper. My problem is that if I put multiple bath bombs of different scents in close proximity to each other for an extended period of time (even after being wrapped), it seems the essential oils begin to blend together and they all start to smell the same. This is a problem because I sell these as gift sets and not all the scents are the same and if a customer doesn’t use their products right away, I would hate for their bath bombs to all smell the same by the time they use them. Any suggestions? Thank you!
When the bath bombs are stored together, the scents will naturally mingle with each other. The plastic wrap and tissue paper should help! Otherwise that I don’t think you can prevent the scent mingling. The good news is, once the bath bombs are separated and dropped into the tub, the true scent should come out more. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Any tips for long term storage (3-4 months) on sugar cube scrubs made with melt and pour soap and sugar?
Absolutely! Because they’re made with melt and pour, they can absorb moisture from the air and form glycerin dew. To prevent that, we recommend wrapping the cubes tightly with plastic wrap and using a heat gun to shrink it on. Then, store them in a cool, dry place. If you have a dehumidifier you can use that. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
How should I store M&P embeds before I use them in my CP soaps? Do I have to wrap those soaps? What do I do with a blended soap? CP soap w/M&P embeds….?
Thanks!
Kim
Hi Kim!
For melt and pour embedded in cold process soap, you’ll want to use LCP bases. The LCP (like cold process) bases have less glycerin, which means little to no sweating. That is ideal for embedding, because they have less chance of morphing or sweating in your bars.
LCP Bases: https://www.brambleberry.com/Search.aspx?k=lcp
Once you’ve made the embeds, wrap them tightly with plastic wrap. That will protect them from moisture, dust, etc. Once your cold process bars are cut, cure them in the open in a cool, dry place. If you have a dehumidifier that would be great. That will keep the bars dry, which will help them cure nicely and prevent the embeds from sweating. 🙂
We used a melt and pour embed in this Sahara Sunset Cold Process Soap Tutorial: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/sahara-sunset-cold-process-soap-tutorial/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi!
I make CP soap with essential oils. I have a baker’s rack that I store them on during the curing process, which has worked really well. However, my concern is that the smell from all the soaps are really strong throughout my house. I’ve diffused essential oils in the past, but this is obviously a little different. Wondering if there are any safety issues I should be aware of considering when curing soap indoors in general and the essential oils in combination with curing soap.
I have a child who has Reactive Airway Disease. This doesn’t affect him in daily life. He only has issues when he is sick and it causes asthma like symptoms to appear.
Just wanted to get any feedback regarding this. Also, are there any recommendations for storage that would either contain the strong scents or a better location? I live in AZ and have a garage, but I don’t think that is a viable option really any time of year since the temperature wouldn’t remain consistent.
Thanks in Advance!!!
Hi Amanda!
If you find the scent is a bit strong, you can store your soap in a container after they’ve cured! Just make sure to leave the top unsealed and slightly off. That may help contain some of the smell. You can also have a fan in your curing room with a window open to help circulate that air. If possible, you can also put the soap in a room and close the door to help!
I would also recommend talking with your doctor. Scents do affect people differently, especially if they have something like Reactive Airway Disease. Your doctor may be able to tell you if there are any safety issues and what you can do to help. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I am late replying, I hope you see this. I’ve never seen another mom with a RAD kid. My 12 year old has it, and RSV has put him in PICU before. In 5+ years of soapmaking, nothing I’ve made has bothered his airways. Doctors get a dazed and confused look when I talk to them about it (they usually know nothing about how essential oils work), so I gave up and went with gut instinct. My son’s symptoms only come out with viruses.
I cure my soaps on flat boxes from Costco, those huge ones for vegetables (I like cheap). If it’s a really bothersome scent, I put another one on top and it mutes the scent but allows air in.
Good luck with your son, mine is starting to grow out of it, he needs his inhalers less and less each winter. I hope the same goes for you!
Thanks for the awesome tips Amy!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
how do u store bubble bars? and how would u suggest shipping them safely?
Hi Lexie!
Once the solid bubble bath is dry, you can wrap it with plastic wrap to keep it fresh. Then you can dress it up any way you like – organza bags, ribbon, etc. 🙂
Packaging: https://www.brambleberry.com/Packaging-C191.aspx
Because the bubble bath can break, I would recommend packing it with something shock absorbing like peanuts. Get more tips in this post on shipping products: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/beginners-guide-to-packing-shipping-handmade-beauty-products/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
What is the shelf life of MP sopa after is made and properly stored? Thanks.
Melt and pour soap lasts about a year! After that time it can dry out a bit. Storing it in a cool, dry place will help it last longer. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
What would using a dehydrator do to cold process soap?
If you live in a really hot and humid climate, cold process soap does take longer to cure. That’s because it’s not as easy for the excess water to evaporate. A dehumidifier helps absorb the excess moisture in the air, allowing the soap to cure faster. It also helps prevent rancidity (DOS). 🙂
Read more about oil rancidity here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m getting ready to start selling my soap (MP exclusively) and I’ve seen people talk about leaving soap out to cure (CP) or parking MP in front of a fan to harden bars, but I’m concerned about ambient contamination or, at the very least, lint getting all over one’s soap. It seems like putting a fan to soap or leaving it out for weeks on end would be unsanitary and go against GMP.
Any thoughts?
Short of a ‘Clean Room’ I can’t imagine how dust and lint aren’t all over our products. Maybe adding a stand-alone HEPA air filter unit to our soaping space? I’m curious if anyone has concerned themselves with this issue? I haven’t seen anyone talking about this so I wondering if I’m just over thinking it.
If you’re making melt and pour soap you can wrap it right after it’s cool and hard! It doesn’t need to cure, so it can be wrapped within a couple hours. Wrapping the soap will protect it from any dust or debris in the air. Learn more about packaging soap here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4bJgtaHMg
During the couple hours it’s hardening it shouldn’t get too much dust. If you like you can use a filter! You can also cover the soap loosely with a bent piece of cardboard to protect it. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you for your reply and the cardboard suggestion but that wouldn’t help in my fan situation.
I’ve switched to using a Detergent Free soap base which is much softer than other MP bases I’ve previously used. A suggestion on another Soap Queen post, recommends putting a fan on it for a while to remove additional moisture and harden the bar some. This is specifically why I’m concerned with ambient lint and dust. (Other types of hardening solutions like adding steric acid or clay won’t work for my types of soap, that’s why moisture removal is appealing.)
I’m just concerned that I’ve never seen anyone address the practice of leaving products to sit out for weeks and months on open air shelves.
Hi Sandra!
A fan is optional for melt and pour soap! It can harden at room temperature, which can help protect it from any dust and debris. We mostly recommend the fan for hot, humid areas, as it helps prevent glycerin dew: http://www.soapqueen.com/personal-ramblings/augh-whats-that-all-over-my-soap-2/
If you do notice any lint, you can spritz the soap with alcohol and wipe it off with a paper towel! Then, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap to protect it from moisture and debris in the air.
For cold process soap, it does need to cure for 4-6 weeks in the open air. That helps any excess water evaporate. I know some soapers do cover their soap lightly with towels or use a filter to protect it from dust. You can definitely use a filter if you prefer! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
When using rebatch soap to make bars do the resulting bars need air like the cold process soap or should they be immediately wrapped like the melt and pour.
We recommend letting the rebatch sit at room temperature for about a week! That helps any water added evaporate and makes the bars a bit more firm. If you added quite a bit of liquid, it may need a bit longer than that – up to 2 weeks. Then, you can use them or wrap them for later use. 🙂
Read more about storing soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-store-handmade-bath-products/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you. That was a great help.
You’re welcome Deborah!
Hi there, we are starting to make goats milk soap with the melt and pour method. We have heard that you must wrap and store it a particular way. We are going to start selling at the markets each week and were wondering if we needed to wrap it straight away to sell it or is it ok to make it during the same week of selling and sell with no wrapping? Also with the wrapping i tried using a hair dryer with glad wrap and the soap just started to melt. I am a little confused !
Please help
We recommend wrapping the soap as soon as it’s cool and hard, especially in humid climates! If the soap is unwrapped it can form glycerin dew. Wrapping it tightly with plastic wrap and shrink wrapping it on tightly will keep it dry. Read more about glycerin dew and how to prevent it here: http://www.soapqueen.com/personal-ramblings/augh-whats-that-all-over-my-soap-2/
For wrapping, a heat gun works best! It delivers a very hot stream of heat that shrink wraps the plastic on in just a couple seconds. That helps prevent melting. 🙂
See the shrink wrapping process with a heat gun in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4bJgtaHMg
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just wanted to say thank you so much for all your helpful tutorials. You are literally the only one I trust when it comes to bath and body products, lol! I often see bath and body tutorials from inexperienced crafters with terribly misleading information. I can always trust your tutorials and this saves me so much time from not having to cross check for flaws. You are clear, concise, informative, knowledge and an irreplaceable source of information in the bath and body world.
Oops, I meant knowledgable! Had to correct it, leaving a typo like that unrecognized would grate on my teeth all day hahah
Thank you so much for your comment Samantha! It means so much to us. We love helping people create handmade bath and beauty products. I can’t wait to share this comment with the blog team. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just purchased some beautiful cold press soap bars as Christmas gifts. How/where do I store them until December??
Cold process stores best in a cool, dry place with good air flow! You can keep them in a cabinet or on bakers racks. You can also store them in a plastic or cardboard container, just make sure to cut holes in the box or leave the top open so they get air. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I was hoping you could tell me how long will cold process soap last with a nice fragrance. I ask because I have a VERY large show that is 5 months from now and I am pregnant. Because I am more tired and slower going than normal, I want to make sure that I give myself plenty of time to make and wrap everything I need for my show…hence my very early start. If I start making soap now, will it still be nice and fragrant 5 month from now? Thanks so much!
With the right fragrance, the scent should last a year or more! That way you can make it well in advance. All of our fragrances have been tested to make sure they last in cold process. Just make sure to use the “Strong” recommendation on the Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
Fragrances: https://www.brambleberry.com/Fragrance-Oils-C161.aspx
This post has more tips for how to prevent scent fading as well: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-prevent-scent-fading-in-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
When storing your soap on a bakers rack side by side as you have shown in the pictures in the article, is there any mixing/transferring of scents from another soap they are sitting next to? Or is that not a concern?
We haven’t noticed any scent mixing! If you smell the bar when it’s near all the other soap it definitely has a few scents going on, but once it’s isolated it smells like the fragrance or essential oil added to it. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I sell my M&P and CP soaps at a larmers market. I wrap the M&P in plastic bags and leave the CP open on the table. It gets pretty hot and we’ve had trouble with some M&Ps melting and both soaps getting dewy. Are there any ingrdients I can add to make harder bars, higher melting points, or less dew? I think I’m curing and packaging the recommended way so I’m looking to make the soap itself more durable. Thank you!
Even with harder bars, the soap can melt or form dew in extreme heat. I would recommend keeping one sample bar out on the table, then storing the rest in a cool area out of the sunlight. A cooler with ice packs works really well! You can also keep them under the table so that sunlight doesn’t cause dew. Get more tips in the Soaping in the Summer Heat post: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soaping-in-the-summer-heat/
You may also check teachsoap.com/forum. The soapers there may have more tips for keeping your soap cool in the summer heat. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I will be trying my hand at soap making in a few days but I am hung up on the curing and 24hrs setup. I went to my Facebook soapmaking friends and they all said they use their oven for the first 24hrs but didn’t give any help with the curing. Lss the only place I have to cure is my garage. But it’s hot. Or my oven *which isn’t working* but there’s no ventilation. Please help…
What about curing in a hall or linen closet?
Your friends are referring to the Cold Process Oven Process (CPOP) method. That helps the soap go through gel phase, which makes the colors pop. We recommend leaving the soap in a 170F oven for one hour, then turning the oven off and letting the soap sit overnight. Learn more about that method here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/hot-process-series-cpop-swirls/
And more about gel phase here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/gel-phase/
Once the soap is ready to unmold, the best place to store it is a cool, dry place with lots of great airflow. A closet can be tricky because there isn’t very much airflow, which can mean the soap takes longer to cure. What you can do is get a few cookie cooling racks from the dollar store or department store and place them on a kitchen counter, on top of a bookshelf, etc. Any flat surface that’s in a cool area out of direct sunlight will work! Then the soap has a place to evaporate any excess water and cure in 4-6 weeks.
If you don’t have the racks, you can also place them on a flat surface! Just turn them once a week to ensure each side cures evenly. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I would love to know the ideal humidity % recommended for cold process curing. Humidity gauges are very affordable and it would be great to have a range to aim for. I used a dehumidifier for the first time in years and it actually was too dry that it negatively affected my scent retention, so I’m thinking that too little humidity is also a problem. Does anyone use a humidity gauge and what % and temperature has been ideal for not just curing, but also retaining scent? Thanks!
Hi Jessica!
I’m not sure of the exact humidity percentage to shoot for when curing your soap! Soap cures best in a cool, dry environment, so the humidity percentage would be on the lower end. Do you know the percentage you have normally without a dehumidifier? If your environment is more dry, you may not need a dehumidifier. Let me know. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Okay I got a bunch of problems.
First, I have had my run in with DOS. I live in Arizona and believe it or not, I don’t have any kind of air conditioning or a swamp cooler. However, I have a tiny unit in my Arizona room (a small add on with nothing but glass doors surrounding it), and I have had to move all 874 soaps into that room. I was keeping them in the garage, but if it’s 108 degrees outside, the garage is about 140+. I went to inspect them and several had DOS all over them and some were “seeping liquid”, which prompted me to move them to the other room asap. Now, it is a very dry climate here, the a/c in that little room is bringing the temp down to about 70. Is that a good temp for the CP soap? I have them on plastic racks and am scared to even put the ones that are 8 weeks cured in a bin because I don’t want the DOS. I’m sure the heat in the garage caused all the DOS, but I just want to make sure what I am doing now is my best option. ( I really have no other option.) Also, I have started making bath bombs and I am on a hit and miss right now with those. Some come out great and are nicely dried, hard and just perfect, while others crack severely and even flatten like a pancake. I have this happen basically to half a batch of the same mixture. I pack my molds very well each time, but some just don’t make it which is very frustrating! Could it be the heat causing my bombs to act this way? We have basically no humidity here, so this is not a atmosphere fizzing problem. Someone told me I might actually be packing the mold too tight in combination with the heat. I just really need a straight answer. My bomb recipe is citric acid, baking soda, Epsom salt, cornstarch, olive oil, water, soap color and fragrance.
Hi Maria!
Heat can definitely play a factor in your soap storage. If the soap is stored in a really hot area, it can form DOS. This is usually more common in more humid areas than Arizona. I think the separate room at 70F should be just fine for storage! Soap stores best in cool, dry places. So, you may want to run a fan over the soaps as they cure to keep them nice and cool.
It can also be other factors causing that DOS. How fresh are your oils? Also, what kind of water are you using? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out!
For the bath bombs, I think they may actually be a bit dry. In drier areas, they may need more witch hazel. Before packing the bath bombs in the mold, you want them to be the texture of wet sand. If they’re more dry than that, spritz 1-2 times with witch hazel, mix and squeeze the mixture in your hand. It should stick together. If not, keep adding witch hazel and stirring. 🙂
Get more bath bomb tips here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/bath-bomb-questions-answers/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I was thinking about making bath melts, 1.5 oz in weight, to sell. I just have no idea on how to package them. Do you have any suggestions?
Hi Heather!
I would recommend wrapping each bath melt tightly with plastic wrap. That will protect them from moisture in the air! Then, you can put them in a cute jar like this bail jar: https://www.brambleberry.com/Tall-8-oz-Plastic-Bail-Jar-P5118.aspx
They would also look really cute in an organza bag! 🙂
Organza bags: https://www.brambleberry.com/Bags-C129.aspx
This video has more tips on packaging your products: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4bJgtaHMg
That video focuses on soap, but the tips can be used for bath melts as well!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
My daughter has been making bath bombs and they mould together well and seem hard enough but some have gone very soft (not crumbly) after a couple of weeks. She has wrapped them in plastic to protect them. Do you have any idea why this would happen?
Hi Vicki!
Hmm, I’m not entirely sure why that’s happening! If the bath bombs soften over time, it usually means that they’re absorbing moisture from the air. The plastic wrap should protect them! Do you live in a fairly hot and humid environment? If so, you may try using a dehumidifier in the room with the bath bombs. You can also pop them in an airtight container with rice or silica packets. That will help keep them nice and dry. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Does the wattage of the heat gun matter? I’ve seen 1200 wattage guns and 1500 wattage.
Thank you so much in advance!
Hi Tara!
The 1200 or 1500 should work just fine! You want the heat gun hot enough that it shrinks the plastic on evenly. Most heat guns you find in the hardware store should work just fine. I believe ours is 1550 wattage. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi, Can we use cling wrap to wrap salt bars? It attracts a lot of moisture even after curing. I was thinking it will stop if I wrap it up. But I read that we cant do that to CP soaps.
Please advise. Thanks!
-Irma, Malaysian, weather:Tropical
Hi Irma!
You can wrap cold process soap tightly after 4-6 weeks of curing! However, salt bars will sweat, especially in humid climates. After 6 weeks you can wrap them tightly to try and prevent the sweating. It may still have a bit of dew, even with wrapping. I would recommend placing the cured bars in a box with rice or silica packets to help absorb some of that moisture. You can also use a dehumidifer in the room. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Kelsey,
Thank you for the reply.
Is it possible to cling wrap the silica packets with the soap? to avoid moisture in the wrapping?
Thanks in advance!
Irma
We haven’t given that a try but I think it would be OK! I would recommend testing a packet in one of the bars to see how it works out. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you Kelsey!!
I’ll give it a try!!
You’re welcome Irma! Let us know how it goes. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi soapqueen! Could i shrink wrap the bars before cure time? I ve heard that when you fully shrink wrap soap bars they can develop DOS.. Is that true?
Thank you!
Hi there!
That is true! Curing the soap allows excess water to evaporate. If the bars are wrapped before then, the moisture can get trapped and cause rancidity. We recommend letting the bars cure for 4-6 weeks before wrapping them. That way the water evaporates fully. 🙂
Learn more about shrink wrapping the soap here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-shrink-wrap-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
From reading the packaging tutorial am I right that after the cure it is ok to shrink wrap or box my CP soap? Then place them in a bin that is open to the air?
I live in a small place so I don’t have room for a lot of racks.
Thanks
Hi Debra!
After those bars cure, they are ready to package! Then, you can place them in a bin. We recommend leaving the lid open and at an angle to allow air to flow through. You can also cap it and poke some holes in your bin if you like. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
hi! I have a lot of questions for you, please help me 🙂
do i need to keep my bathbomb in the mold until it dry? or can i put it outside the mold ?
after my bathbomb dry, should i put it into refrigerator? is it gonna decrease the fizz if i put it in refrigerator?
If I use epsom salt, how many epsom salt should I use? can I blend it so the texture looks like powder?
Thankyouuu!
Hi Vania!
For your bath bomb, are you using a mold with cavities, or a 3D mold like this one: https://www.brambleberry.com/Bath-Bomb-Mold-Package-Plastic-P5913.aspx
Let me know and I can tell you how to dry those bath bombs!
After your bath bomb is dry, we recommend wrapping it tightly with plastic wrap and putting it in an airtight container. That will help protect it from humidity in the air! We don’t recommend the refrigerator, as the bath bomb can form condensation there and start to fizz too early. Bath bombs wrapped tightly and stored at room temperature work best. 🙂
You can add Epsom salt to your bath bomb! We recommend starting with about 1/4 of salt per cup of citric acid. We did that in the For the Love of Waterlily Bath Bombs: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/bath-fizzies/for-the-love-of-waterlily-a-bath-fizzy-tutorial/
This Bath Bomb Questions and Answers post has more great tips: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/bath-bomb-questions-answers/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hello (:
Are the racks you use zinc-plated? Can you use chrome-plated racks or will the lye react negatively to that?
Thank you.
Hi Daniel!
We recommend stainless steel racks with a protective coating that prevents corrosion. Soap can react to certain metals. When it reacts, it can go rancid and form dreaded orange spots (DOS). Stainless steel works best for storage. 🙂
Read more about how to prevent DOS here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thanks for you response.
Which specific protective coatings should I be looking for? According to some their soap has reacted badly to chrome-plated steel racks–which coatings are least likely to result in DOS?
Hi Daniel!
I am not entirely sure what the coating is made of. I did a bit of research to see if I could find the material without a lot of luck. I would recommend looking for any rack that says stainless steel. If it’s aluminum, tin, chrome, etc., you’ll want to steer clear as those metals can rust or react with the lye. Any stainless steel rack should work nicely. You can also contact the manufacturer before purchasing it to learn more about the coating. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Okay, thanks Kesley!
You’re welcome!
Hello all, I’m a little late but I’m hoping someone can help- I make and sell hemp lotion. It’s very popular, but it seems to turn rancid pretty quickly- sometimes within the space of a couple of months. I have never had a problem with mold, as I’m really careful with manufacturing and preservatives. ( I suspect that my former supplier NOT Brambleberry) may have been selling old stock.
I use vitamin e as a preservative, as well as optiphen plus. Does anybody have any suggestions to keep hemp lotion from turning rancid?
Hi Barbara!
Hemp seed oil typically has a shorter shelf life – as little as 3 months. I think that’s the reason why the lotion is going rancid! The hemp seed oil we sell has a shelf life of 1-2 years, so your lotion should last a bit longer. 🙂
Refined hemp seed oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Hemp-Seed-Oil-Refined-P3209.aspx
Natural hemp seed oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Natural-Hemp-Seed-Oil-P3211.aspx
Read more about product shelf lives here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/shelf-life-bath-products-ingredients-rancidity-vs-mold/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Barbara,
Without knowing all of the ingredients in your lotion and your process, it is hard to guess what might be the problem. You probably already know the following if you make and sell lotion, but I have a few ideas for troubleshooting.
If you have certain oils in there, some have relatively short shelf lives (especially if your supplier sells an old supply) and vitamin e oil will only extend it so much.
There might also be an ingredient that inhibits or deactivates your preservative and/or promotes oxidation, which can render your lotion rancid before expected. The type of container it is stored in could also be the culprit, possibly exposing the product to the air more than it should.
I suggest visiting Susan Barclay-Nichols’ (aka SwiftCraftyMonkey) website. She authored a guest post on the Soap Queen blog about preservatives, and her site is full of detailed information on specific ingredients, containers, and many other useful topics. Here is a link to a post where she talks about rancidity – http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/10/mechanisms-of-rancidity.html?m=1. I hope this was helpful!
Also, just to clarify, when I mention a supplier selling an old supply, I was not referring to Brambleberry😉!
Thanks for the help Dionne! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi. I used to do melt and pour and relatively new to cp soap. My problem is I live in Durban, South Africa and it’s very humid. How can I stop the scents fading, also my bath bombs expand as the house “sweats” how can I keep them together? Can I store my cp soaps in closed plastic containers? Been doing that. It gets very hot and sticky here. Upstairs it can get up to 36 Celsius here.
Hi Fiona!
To keep your bath bombs from expanding, I would recommend using a dehumidifier in the room. You can also store them in a container with some rice or silica packets to absorb moisture. Then, once they’re dry, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap! That will protect them from moisture in the air. 🙂
For cold process soap, we recommend curing them for 4-6 weeks in a cool, dry place with a lot of airflow. In a sealed container, they can form DOS: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/
After the soap is cured, you can store it in a plastic container. I would recommend leaving the top unsecured, or poking holes in the container. That way they have a bit of airflow and don’t get too humid.
Also, we have a great post on how to prevent scent fading in soap: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-prevent-scent-fading-in-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
hello,
I made some bath bombs last night for the first time, and I left them in the kitchen table to harden on a cookie sheet onto of parchment paper, well this morning they were fizzed up a little, it seems like moister got on them, how can I prevent that from happening again?
Thank you! 🙂
Hi Celena!
If you live in a humid climate, the moisture in the air can get into those bath bombs. I would recommend running a fan over them as they harden, or using a dehumidifier in your room. Then, as soon as they’re ready, wrap them tightly with plastic wrap. That will help prevent any premature fizzing. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I appreciate how you mentioned that by properly storing handmade soaps and creations prolongs the amount of time they stay usable. My wife really loves handmade products and I thought I’d get her some for valentines day next month. I want to get a good amount of them so she can use them for a while but didn’t really know if there was a special way to store them. I’m glad I ran into your article, it was really helpful! Thanks for sharing!
You’re very welcome Jack, so glad you found this post helpful! Hope your wife loves her handmade goodies. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hello Kelsey,
I wondering if you could explain how to store CP soaps so that the scents stay strong, and also could you tell me how to store in plastic containers (do you drill holes in them)?
Thank you!
Hi Thea!
Absolutely! We like to store our cold process soap on bakers racks. We have found that provides lots of good air flow for the soap, and that the scent stays nice and strong. Some soapers like to dip cotton balls or paper towels in the fragrance used in the soap and place that near the curing bars. The reason for that is to help the soap absorb the scent as it cures.
Get more tips on preventing scent fading in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-prevent-scent-fading-in-soap/
For plastic containers, we like to store them with the lid on but not secured. You can even place it on there diagonally. That way the soap still gets great air flow. If you like, you can also secure the lid and drill holes into the container. Either way works! Just make sure the soap is getting air to help prevent rancidity. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I am having problem with my bath bombs and shower bombs. All summer I have not had problems. they are perfect. It has turned cold. Now they are powdery and not staying to together. adding more witch hazel does not help, just makes them expand. I am using essential oils.
Thanks for any help I can get.
Sandra
Hi Sandra!
Oh no, I’m sorry about that! Temperature and humidity play a big role in bath bombs. While the bath bomb mixture may be more wet during the humid summer, they may be more dry in the cold winter.
To help make them a bit more moist, you can add some oil to the mix! You can use any oil you like, including avocado or meadowfoam oil. Oils help make the mixture more wet, and also add moisture to the skin. Be careful when exiting the tub though, it can make it a bit slippery. We recommend starting out with about .5 ounces per 1.5 cups of bath bomb mixture. We added some oil in the Midas Touch Bath Bombs for some moisture: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/midas-touch-bath-bombs/
Witch hazel can help as well. I would recommend squeezing the mixture in your hand to see if it clumps together. If not, spritz the witch hazel 1-2 times and mix again. Adding the witch hazel in small amounts helps moisturize the fizzy without making it so wet it sets your bath bombs off. 🙂
Get more bath bomb making tips in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/bath-bomb-questions-answers/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi- Just a thought…does anyone know if the silica gel packs absorb the scent too?
Hi Michelle!
Hmm, I’m not entirely sure! You may want to do an experiment where you store one bar with a silica pack and one without, then give them a sniff in a couple of weeks.
Another option is to several dab a cotton balls or rolled up pieces of paper towel in the fragrance you used in the soap. Then, you can store the cotton balls with your soap. That is thought to help the soap absorb some of the scent as it sits. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I make hot-processed soaps. I don’t have the problem of Dreaded Orange Spots with hot processing. However, I’m about to venture into CPOP and wonder if that’s still a problem.
Hi there!
As long as your oils are fresh and your soaps are stored in a cool, dry place, your soap should be just fine! Dreaded orange spots typically form in very humid environments, or if your oil is past its shelf life.
Read more tips on preventing dreaded orange spots in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’ve been concerned about storing soaps between shows. After reading all this I’ll be buying the reusable silica gel from lee valley to put in the suitcase I will use to transport the soaps. For the long stretches they’ll go on a rack but a few weeks they can be stored.
Hi Samantha!
That sounds like a great idea! That silica gel will help absorb moisture and keep your soaps nice and dry when they’re transported to the shows. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
How did this work out? We retail fair trade organic soap and the paper wrapping deteriorates quite quickly in our humid climate?
Hi, I was wondering what your solution or ideas could be for curing/packaging/wrapping a cold process soap with melt and pour embeds. I have been doing cp soaps with mp embeds and decorations but can’t decide how to let the cp cure and protect the mp from getting glycerin dew!
And ideas? thanks
Hi Michelle!
For melt and pour embeds, we recommend using our LCP (like cold process) bases. They have less glycerin, meaning they have little to no sweating.
LCP bases: https://www.brambleberry.com/Search.aspx?k=lcp
If you’re using regular melt and pour, I would recommend running a fan over the soap as it’s curing for 4-6 weeks. You can also use a dehumidifer to keep the melt and pour embeds from sweating too much. Then, after the soap is cured, I would recommend wrapping with plastic wrap to protect the melt and pour embeds. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you for this great advice. I make handmade pouches for my soaps which are made by cold and hot processed methods. Lately I’ve been packing them lightly in cellophane paper before putting them in the package. I find that the cellophane helps the essential oils scents to last longer.
Hi Carrie!
You’re welcome, glad you found the post helpful! I love the idea of handmade pouches for your soap, it sounds so cute. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I live in the desert. low humidity. I store all my soaps in a plastic snap lock bin. holds fragrance for up to years. I cure very well a few months prior to long storage. slow movers through sales store very well this way in dry climates.
CP soap!
Hi Robin!
Those are great tips for dry climates, thanks so much for sharing! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Robin, thanks for your tips on cp soap storage in hot climate. I live in Nigeria and even after full curing period of 6 weeks plus, some of my cp soaps just start producing moisture. Moisture usually reduces only after putting on the air conditioning for hours.
BB Team please any additional advise? This problem is worrisome and it affects my sales.
Hi Sarah!
In humid climates, it helps to have a dehumidifier. That helps dry out your room, keeping those soaps nice and dry. You can also run a fan over the soaps as they cure.
I’ve also heard of people in very humid climates keeping their soap in the fridge until it’s ready to sell.
Hope that helps! If anyone else has tips on storing soaps in humid climates I’d love to hear your tips. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Bery
I may have missed it but what about HP soap ? Best way there is always different opinions ? Thanks
Hi Cindee!
Storing hot process soap will be the same as storing cold process soap. Even though your hot process soap is technically ready once it’s hardened, we recommend letting it cure 4-6 weeks. That way the excess water will evaporate. Then, you can store them on bakers racks or in bins with good airflow. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thanks so much for this post! I was just recently thinking about storage options for my CP soaps and was going to start researching. Perfect timing! I’m guessing by “storage bin” in this post you are referring to plastic bins? I have been using lidded shoe boxes as I thought it would be better circulation and less chance of moisture than plastic. What do you think? Should I switch to plastic?
Hi Jen!
You’re welcome, so glad you enjoy the post! Also, that is correct, we use plastic bins. You can definitely use cardboard as well though! It may help to poke a couple holes in the boxes (if they don’t already have them). That way, your soap can get some airflow and won’t get too moist. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
What size/sort of shrink wrap would you use for bath bombs. I’ve never seen any specifically for that purpose.
Hi Michael!
We typically wrap our fizzies in plastic wrap from the grocery store. That seals out any moisture and protects them from fizzing prematurely. I’m not entirely sure where to find shrink wrap for bath bombs. An internet search may tell you more! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I simply wrap my bath bombs in rectangular shrink wrap bags, from memory the 6×4 ones. I have also found out that if my bath bombs are starting to swell, have dots, or crumble after I make them, I shrink wrap them right away, leaving the top open. They can still dry from the top! No more wasted bath bombs!
That’s a great suggestion Josee! Shrink wrap is a great idea. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi, I was wondering if you have any suggestions about how to package cold process soap to sell? Preferably something inexpensive 😉 Thanks
Hi Anna!
We have some great blog posts on packaging cold process soap! I’ll include a couple links below that may be helpful for you. 🙂
5 Tips to Create Professional Looking Soap: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/5-ways-professional-soap/
Packaging Inspiration with Heathoriginal: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/packaging-inspiration-with-heathoriginal/
Packaging on Soap Queen TV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4bJgtaHMg
The last one is about melt and pour, but still has some great ideas. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Kelsey:
That is a good picture of your hand-made soap collection. Have you guys done a post exclusively on the pics? I would love to see all of them.
I like how they are laid out nicely on the racks. It’s a good idea to have them at a nice level to avoid bending down awkwardly if you are trying to reach for them or having to get on your tiptoes to reach up.
Overall, great tips. I think the professional storage will help keep the shelf life of the soap going.
Carlos
Hi Carlos!
So glad you found the post helpful! Also, we do have several posts on photography tips you may like. I’ll include links below. 🙂
Soap Photography Tips from Handmade in Florida: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-photography-tips-handmade-florida/
Instagram Tips and Tricks: http://www.soapqueen.com/business/instagram-tips-and-tricks/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Good day,
So far my fizzies have been packaged individually in small (well fitted) zip lock bags and they have done well in them. But I’ve been experimenting with your fabulous cupcake fizzy idea and plan to offer a version for sale within the next week or so, and I must admit that packaging individual cupcakes (for now) has been giving me a problem. I was thinking of wrapped in cellophane and tied on top (tied with ribbon mwhich would also let a tag be tied in place), but I’m not very happy with that idea. Its the best I’ve thought of though, if anyone has a better suggestion I’d love to hear it.
This really is a very practical, helpful tutorial that anyone who makes body care products will find useful. Thank you very much for posting it.
Grey Dove
Hi Grey Dove!
So glad you enjoyed the tutorial! I think placing the fizzies in a cellophane bag with ribbon sounds really cute. You can also put them in little boxes, sort of like the boxes bakers use to sell individual cupcakes. This cube box may work well for that: https://www.brambleberry.com/Cube-Box-Clear-Plastic-P5445.aspx
This Soap Queen TV episode on packaging may help as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-queen-tv-cute-packaging-ideas-2/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Dear Kelsey,
Thank you, feels better knowing the cellophane option should work. Although I hadn’t actually thought of a bag (wonderful how we can miss the obvious) thank you, that will be a lot less work! Love the little boxes too, they would be great for the second batch.
As ever your help is most appreciated. On my way to check the video!
Sincerely,
Grey Dove
Hi there!
You’re welcome! Have fun watching the video. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Your soaps look so good all together!!
I’d like to ask: How long will you keep your samples??
I’m reading “Good Manufacturing Practices” by Marie Gale and she recommends to keep Retain Samples for one year past the product expiration. What’s that? Soap can last a looong time, albeit it’s properties change–so how long is recommended to keep these samples??
As a hobbiest at this time, It’s really fun to look back at my beginning sample bars I’ve kept and see growth and improvements in technique. If I do start selling I may not be as excited to keep a bar with each Batch Record for years and years–that could take up a lot of space.
For storage I use clear plastic tubs with the lids placed crosswise so I can stack the next tub on top. The bars get air and I can quickly see what’s inside.
Anne-Marie, Thank You for your information and support!
Hi Rae!
We typically keep our samples for a year or longer. Sometimes, they can develop DOS or some of the botanicals can turn brown, so we may keep those a shorter time. 🙂
That’s so fun to look back on your past bars! Typically, I give most of mine away but like to keep one or two for myself.
Also, I love the idea of tubs with the lids crosswise! What a great idea, thanks for sharing. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! I just wanted to add that I store my bath bombs or fizzies in a cardboard box with several of the silica gel pouches that you get in boxes of new shoes. This seems to help them dry out in the early stages and keeps them that way. Cheers and thanks for the post.
Hi Jane!
That is an awesome idea! The silica packets help absorb extra moisture and keep your bath fizzies nice and dry. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
This is one of the best, and so needed tutorials I have seen on storing your products. Thank you so much for the time you spend helping all of us.
You’re very welcome Vivian! So glad this post was helpful for you. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
The boxes from the Handmade Beauty Box works great for storing!
That’s a great idea! I love their pretty pink boxes. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
We fight humidity down here that causes DOS. :/ Investing in a dehumidifier is great while the soaps are curing. I’ve also added silica packets to the boxes when storing fulling cured soaps. Big help!! Wish I would have thought of that sooner lol
Hi Michelle!
Adding silica packets to your boxes is a great idea! That helps absorb some of the excess moisture. You can also run a fan over the soaps while they cure. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
We work in the humidity capital of the world… South Florida. For cold process we keep the loaf in warm oven for 24 hours to speed the curing process and then place in cool refrigerator (not freezer). Dehumidifying is not a practical option for us. Once we cut the bars we find that fragrance dissipates very quickly in this climate and therefore we don’t cut the loaf until we need a bar. This seems to lock in the fragrance much longer. We sell these at farmers markets and therefore the loaf sits in high temp / high humidity for the better part of a day and then anything left goes straight back in the fridge… We don’t have much room in the fridge so is there a better way to handle cpop soap in the tropics? If we cure too long we lose fragrance (essential oils) and can’t sell the soap – very tricky process..
Hi Lars!
I can only imagine how humid South Florida is!
It sounds like you’ve got some great tips for dealing with high humidity! My only other suggestion would be to keep your soaps in a cool, dark place, like a basement. If dehumidifying isn’t an option for you, you may try running a fan over those soaps as they cure.
We also have a mini fridge in our lab for cooling things down. That may be an extra storage option that wouldn’t be as expensive as a full fridge. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’ve made rebatch soap but haven’t made cold process soap from scratch as of yet. I’m wondering if storing in cardboard boxes (boxes from Uline) would work for storing both cold process and melt and pour? After melt and pour has been wrapped, of course. Thanks for all the tutorials you give us!
Hi Pat!
You can store it there if you like! I would recommend cutting a couple of holes in the box. That way, air can still reach the rebatch and keep it from getting too moist. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thus was great information regarding proper storing. Thanks so much!
You’re welcome! So glad you like the post Jennifer. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I love seeing all the old soaps in storage! This post is cool and informative. Thanks, Soap Queen!
You’re welcome! So glad you like the post. We definitely have lots of soap in our lab. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry