Charcoal soap has become extremely popular, and for good reason – it has amazing skin benefits. Its powerful absorption properties make it especially beneficial for oily facial skin. Learn more about the skin benefits of charcoal here.
This Lavender & Charcoal Soap was designed primarily for use on the body, but it’s also suitable for the face. In particular, the olive oil and cocoa butter are moisturizing so they make it suitable for combination or drier skin. If you have oily facial skin, the Charcoal Facial Soap is for you.
The activated charcoal gives part of the soap a striking gray color, while the rest of the soap is left uncolored. The two are poured into the mold in layers and then swirled together using the Hanger Swirl Tool. The lack of precision in the swirling technique creates different bars each time. It also makes it a great swirl for beginners because there is no right or wrong way to do it.
To help the activated charcoal mix into the batter smoothly, we dispersed it in a lightweight liquid oil. Sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, and avocado oil work well. For this recipe, mix 1 tablespoon charcoal with 1 tablespoon oil. Add the entire mixture at trace.
10” Silicone Loaf Mold Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!Lavender & Charcoal Soap DIY
Hanger Swirl Tool
3.3 oz. Cocoa Butter (10%)
8.3 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
13.2 oz. Olive Oil (40%)
8.3 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
9.8 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
1.75 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
1 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
Optional: 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate
Find the supplies you need for this project below
- 10” Silicone Loaf Mold
- Hanger Swirl Tool
- 3.3 oz. Cocoa Butter (10%)
- 8.3 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
- 13.2 oz. Olive Oil (40%)
- 8.3 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
- 4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 9.8 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
- 1.75 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
- 1 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
- Optional: 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate
- Slowly and carefully add 4.6 ounces of lye to 9.8 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
- In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning).
- Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace.
- Whisk in the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil. Split off about 300 mL of soap into a separate container.
- To the large container, add all of the dispersed activated charcoal and use a whisk to mix in.
- Alternate pouring the white and black soap into the mold, until all the soap has been poured into the mold.
- Insert the Hanger Swirl Tool into the soap, and create 5-6 loops within the soap. Remove the Hanger Swirl Tool and tap the mold on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
- Use a spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it! If the soap does not hold its shape, allow it to harden in the mold for several minutes and try again.
- Once you’re happy with the look, spritz the top with alcohol to prevent soda ash. Allow it to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Cut into bars and allow it to cure for 4-6 weeks before using. Enjoy!
I followed this recipe exactly and it turned out sticky for a few minute after your hands dry. Why is that?
After using soap it can feel a little tacky while it is still wet before that moisture wicks back out. Using a Soap Sandle or Dish should help that.
Soap Standle: https://www.brambleberry.com/shop-by-product/tools-and-accessories/accessories/soap-standle/V000772.html
Soap Dish: https://www.brambleberry.com/shop-by-product/tools-and-accessories/accessories/soap-dish/V000771.html
You can definitely leave this soap unscented if you like. I don’t think unscented soap smells funky but it does have kind of any neutral oil-type smell to it.
Hi there, what can be used instead of palm oil please?
Lard or Babassu Oil are great substitutes!
Hello I love the recipe. If i wanted to make it as a liquid soap and not as a bar soap what would you suggest I do differently? Is there something I should add so it doesn’t solidify or a step i should omit? I’m still new to soap making but would appreciate any feedback.
Thank you
We don’t have any liquid soap recipes like this right now. Find out more about how to make liquid soap with our Liquid Soap Guru Kit or the Liquid Soapmaking Book.
Kit: https://www.brambleberry.com/Liquid-Soap-Guru-Kit-P4829.aspx
Book: https://www.brambleberry.com/Liquid-Soapmaking-Book-P6938.aspx
How many activated charcoal should i use?Why?
The amount of charcoal you’ll need is outlined in the post above. It’s used for its color and known skin benefits.
I couldn’t get it to trace at all. Followed the exact recipe as listed here..
Have no idea what went wrong as far as I can determine i did everything correct. I’m afraid to try it again until I determine why it didn’t reach trace
I used weight for measurement in stead of liquid. Could that be the problem?
We recommend measuring by weight so that wouldn’t be the problem.
If the soap didn’t trace at all it sounds like you may have used Potassium Hydroxide Lye (used for liquid soap) instead of Sodium Hydroxide. I would check your labels. If the lye water didn’t heat up when you mixed them it could also be that the lye was inactive.
would you recommend Juicy Orange & Sweet Rose Cold Process as a facial soap? I am looking for facial soap recipes or soap recipes that can be used on face
We haven’t tried that one as a facial soap. For a soap recipe made for your face try our Sea Clay Avocado Facial Bar or Charcoal Facial Soap.
https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/sea-clay-avocado-facial-bar/
https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/charcoal-facial-soap-tutorial/
May I used a 6 cavity soap mold which each cavity holding 4 oz each. How much cavity do you think I may need, and how long would I need to leave the soap in the cavity?
You would need 11-12 cavities at that size. You would still want to leave the soap in the mold for 2-3 days.
Would you recommend using this as a facial soap?
This soap was designed for use on the body, but it’s also suitable for the face.
Hi,
I replaced palm oil with virgin coconut oil(8.3 ounces) and cocoa butter with shea butter (3.3ounces)
Turns out the top of my soap has a layar of oil, should inwait for a few more days to let the oil absord? Anything went wrong with the replaces recipe, is it still ok to use?
When subsituting oils you will want to run the new amounts through the Lye Calculator to make sure the Lye / Water amounts remain the same. If you did that the oils could be from a temperature issue and are separating out. If that is the case they should absorb back in over the cure, you just may want to give them some extra time in the mold or before cutting.
This soap looks lovely, however when I run the ingredients through SoapCalc to get the properties of the soap I noticed the amount of water comes out very differently (not within your 10% discount) – is there a reason for this? Do all your recipces calculate water amount less than SoapCalc?
Every calculator does things differently based on ingredients, superfat, water discount, etc. so it’s entirely normal to get different results. This recipe was heavily tested, so you can trust that the ingredients shown will work properly.
Interesting! Thank you for your reply – I am about to try it out!
Good afternoon,
Would this recipe work if I used sandalwood and cedar wood oils instead of lavender? Also, I was thinking about using different oils. If I did so, is there a recommended hardness range to watch for when using the soap calculator?
To clarify my second question, can I use the soap calculator to gauge the hardness level in my soap if I were to sub out the palm oil? If so, what is your recommended hardness level?
You can use different essential or fragrance oils in this recipe. If you want to change the oils you can do that too. Just run your new amounts through the Lye Calculator to make sure the lye / water doesn’t change too much. Our Lye Calculator does not measure hardness like that though.
How to Substitute Oils in Cold Process Soap:https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Hi,I like so much Soap Queen!Would like to ask if I can infuse lavender buds in water for this recipe?
And how?
Thank you
Oleksandra
I would check this blog post on how to infuse oils: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-infuse-oils-with-a-crock-pot/
Thank you so much
hi!i would like to know how can i riplace the palm oil in this recipe thank you
You could increase the coconut oil to 33% and the cocoa butter to 15%. We don’t recommend going over that too much otherwise the bars can be brittle or too cleansing. The rest of the palm you can make up with olive oil. It will feel softer than a recipe made with palm oil.
Remember to run it through the Lye Calculator after any substitutions: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
This post on substituting oils has helpful information as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Can we make this soap using the Lots of Lather Quick Mix?
You can, but you may not be able to get the swirls you want with that mix. You’ll have to work fast.
I would like to make this soap. My silicon mold hold only 40 oz. I checked your lye calculator and resized. What % of super fat should I type in this receipt ??
We generally recommend a 5% superfat, but it’s up to you. This post on superfatting might be helpful: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/superfatting-soap-an-explanation-2/
Hello, I would like to make this receipt. My silicon molding is not 10” (50oz). Only hold 41 oz.
I tried to recalculate at your lye calculater, How much should I put to superset of this receipt?
We generally recommend a 5% superfat, but it’s up to you. This post breaks down superfatting: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/superfatting-soap-an-explanation-2/
This post talks about resizing recipes: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-resize-cold-process-soap-recipes/
I used this recipe for the very first attempt at making soap and honestly it worked out amazing. I used shea butter instead of cocoa butter and a different scented oil from home just because i didn’t have anything I wanted. I also only used charcoal b/c I wanted the all dark grey bar.
1. My trace happened almost immediately. It was like cake batter pretty quick but that seemed to be OK!
2. I felt like the first 24 hours of testing a little chunk of it made my hands feel dried out even though the lather was nice. Is that normal and does it go away in the curing process?
LAST Q — I’d like a recipe as easy as this one but that will give me more of a creamy white/rose color. Goal milk looks hard with the frozen chunks and lye situation. 🙂 Any recommendations?
THANK YOU AGAIN!!
For your trace, did you notice the soap getting thick as soon as you added the lye water? If so, what were your temperatures?
In the first 24 hours the lye is still active so it can irritate the hands. It will get milder as it cures for 4-6 weeks.
As for an easy recipe, this is a great one: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/back-to-basics-simple-gentle-cold-process-soap/
On its own it has a creamy white color. For a rose hue, you can mix 1 teaspoon of Rose Pearl Mica with 1 tablespoon of sweet almond oil. Then, add 1/2 dispersed teaspoon at a time at trace until you get a color you like.
Rose Pearl Mica: https://www.brambleberry.com/Rose-Pearl-Mica-P3461.aspx
I honestly didn’t check temperatures. I know you said to but the lye had cooled down well enough and the oil was all room temp so I figured they were about equal. This is also why I don’t bake and prefer savory cooking where passion supplements precision. 🙂
I was just reading your Turmeric infusion article and the colors there are gorgeous!!! I love the creamy super light pink. Thinking of trying that but confused on the dispersion. Will re-read 😉
From what you’re describing it may be false trace. When the lye and oils are too cool, they can start to harden before the batch is emulsified. They usually thicken almost instantly. For your next batch, try having both around 115F. That should give you more time to work.
This post has more on false trace: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/spot-prevent-false-trace/
For the turmeric dispersion, let me know if you need help with the amounts.
Hi! My charcoal turned gray in the finished product. 🙁 I used white melt and pour soap for this. What could be the problem?
Charcoal will show up gray when mixed with a white base. The soap will still feel great, but if you want a darker color you’ll want to use Clear Melt and Pour Soap: https://www.brambleberry.com/SFIC-Clear-Melt-And-Pour-Soap-Base-P3189.aspx
I don’t have any cocoa butter, could I use avocado butter as a substitute? would it be 1 to 1, if not how much would I need?
A closer substitute is shea butter. It’s not as hard as cocoa butter, but it is harder than avocado butter. You can use the shea at the same amount as cocoa. Just remember to run the recipe through the Lye Calculator after any substitutions: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
This post on substituting oils has some good information as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
I would like some advice.
I was thinking of substituting patchouli for the lavender.
Would the patchouli cause the soap to behave badly?
Roughly how much would I use? This will be my 4th batch of CP and the first try at substituting. Thanks for you great site full of recipes and marvelous tutorials.
You can use patchouli in place of lavender, it performs well in cold process soap. The oil does have a naturally dark color that may affect the color of the soap. You can leave it as is or add some titanium dioxide to lighten in: https://www.brambleberry.com/Titanium-Dioxide-Pigment-P4040.aspx
Patchouli essential oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Patchouli-Essential-Oil-P3420.aspx
Find out how much to add with the Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
I would like to double this batch would how much lye should I use and distilled water.
To double this batch, multiply all the ingredients by 2. Then you can run it through the Lye Calculator to make sure everything is correct: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Hi! I love your tutorials so much. I was wondering, what’s the best way to clean your soapy measuring cups after you’ve made your soap? And is it okay to use the measuring cups (once they’re clean) in your kitchen again??
Thanks so much!!
There are a few ways to clean your tools – you can wash them right away with dish soap and warm water, or let them sit a few days and scrape off the soap that forms. Learn more in this post: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/clean-soapy-session/
Once you use the tools for soap, we don’t recommend them for food. Lye and fragrance can get stuck in the cracks, even with careful washing. It’s best to have one set of tools for soap and one for food.
Hi–
I made this recipe twice now, and it really was a joy to make–I followed the directions exactly (except for the first time, where I accidentally didn’t use enough charcoal), soaped when my lye water and oils were both ~130 degrees, spritzed with rubbing alcohol (multiple times with the second batch), and both times I had a terrible problem with soda ash, not only on top, but within the soap too…any advice/recommendations for next time to prevent it from happening?
Usually when the soap is warmer and has a water discount like this one it helps prevent soda ash. Did you gel your soap?
Hello,
I’m having trouble finding 40/42 Lavender EO, can I just use simple Lavender EO instead?
Yes, you can use any skin-safe lavender essential oil you like. You may want to make a small test batch to be sure it performs well in cold process soap.
Would it be possible to sub out the palm oil by increasing the coconut oil and/or cocoa butter to make up the difference?
You can increase the coconut oil to 33% and the cocoa butter to 15%. We don’t recommend going over that too much otherwise the bars can be brittle or too cleansing. The rest of the palm you can make up with olive oil. It will feel softer than a recipe made with palm oil.
Remember to run it through the Lye Calculator after any substitutions: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
This post on substituting oils has helpful information as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Should I add more sodium lactate so it’s harder? (more than the 2%) Thank you!! 🙂
Adding more sodium lactate could make the bars crumbly, so I would avoid that. I think the recommendations Kelsey made would make a nice, balanced bar.
I am going to be resizing this soap. How much activated charcoal do you recommend PPO? Thanks.
About 1 teaspoon of charcoal mixed with 1 teaspoon of lightweight oil per pound of soap is a good place to start, but we always recommend preparing extra just in case. Add 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time until you get a color you like.
If you have leftovers, store them in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. The color will last as long as the oil it’s mixed with. Find a list of oil shelf lives here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
I purchased Lavendar 40/42 from y’all to make some CP soap in your 12” silicone mold. I’m wondering if it holds up during gel phase or should that be avoided? Thanks in advance.
Yes, that mold will hold up during gel phase. It’s nice and sturdy. It can bow slightly if your recipe is 50 ounces, so we recommend making 45 ounces.
Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold: https://www.brambleberry.com/Tall-12-Silicone-Loaf-Mold-P6073.aspx
Thanks for this amazing article, and great video too! I’d love to get my hands into making DIY projects again. I’ll definitely add making this soap on my list! 🙂
Glad you enjoyed the video Wanda. Have fun.
Help please, I’d really love to make this recipe but am very new at soaping. Please, what temp would be ideal to mix lye & oils, I understand they both need to be close to the same. Under 130 degrees just leaves me wondering what the best temp would be.
Thanks so much.
You can combine the lye and oils when they’re around 120-125F. Learn more about temperatures here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/back-to-basics-how-temperature-affects-cold-process-soap/
What is the purpose of the water discount in this recipe? If you are using the optional sodium lactate to help release from the silicone mold, why would you also want or need to apply a 10% water discount?
Water discounts have a few benefits. Not only do they help harden the soap along with the sodium lactate, but they also help prevent glycerin rivers and soda ash. Learn more about that here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/water-discounting-cold-process-soap-how-why/
Hi Kelsey and bb!
The white looks very white :)). Did you use titanium dioxide? Very pretty!
We didn’t, that soap is uncolored. The dark gray soap helps the white really pop.
Hello kelsea good day. Could I double the ingredients, to make a 6pounds batch, and could I add some arrowroot powder,and add some extract, please let me know, and thanks. Could I use other molds instead of the loaf ones
KelSey, what do the mean by supper fatting in case soaps thanks
You can double this batch by multiplying all the ingredients by 2. Then run it through the Lye Calculator just to make sure everything is correct: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
You can add 1 teaspoon of extract per pound of soap. As for the arrowroot powder, why do you want to add it?
Superfat is the amount of oils in the recipe that aren’t turned into soap. They’re freefloating oils that add luxury to the batch. Learn more about that here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/superfatting-soap-an-explanation-2/
Thanks KelSey,I want to add the arrow root powder, cause I read an article on essential oils, and for them to stay longer in cold process soap after curing, you could put oatmeal, corn starch or arrowroot powder those addition keep the essential oil in the soaps. Kelyeah could you please tell me how much essential oils per pounds of soap
I think it may be easier to explain this over the phone. You can call customer service at 877-627-7883 between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. PST and they can walk you through the process.
hello again,
I searched the blog looking for a way to use candelilla wax in CP soap, but couldn’t find anything. I’ll appreciate any tips regarding its use, thank you !
We haven’t worked with candelilla wax in soap before. Why are you wanting to add it? There may be other options.
thank you Kelsey for your speedy reply : )
…it’s just that I have a whole bag of candelilla wax and I’m not interested in using it for lotions, lipsticks or balms. I might give it a try in soap and see what happens ; )
Ah, that makes sense! In that case, give it a try at 8% or less and keep your temperatures high. Soaping around 160-170F will keep the wax melted while you’re working. The wax may cause acceleration.
We’ve worked with beeswax in soap. It makes the soap harder and adds a sort of shiny look. Here’s a tutorial you can use for reference: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/beeswax-spoon-plop/
Kelsea good night, I want to make 6 pounds of soaps, using these essential oils, tangerine, red Brazilian mangerine,orange, lemon,patchouli, and ginger. Please tell me how much essential oils per pounds of soap. I really want to smell it after the Soap has been cure, please help me, cause the fragrance calculator only allow one oil
Hello good night, could you please send me the link for tumuric cold process soap, I have been looking for a link thanks
I think it may be easier to explain this over the phone. You can call customer service at 877-627-7883 between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. PST and they can walk you through the process.
Find the Turmeric Secret Swirl Soap tutorial here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/turmeric-hidden-feather-swirl-cold-process/
Hi
I just found a wonderful website: eocalc.com. , that helps you figure out how to blend a bunch of different EOs in soap. It asks for percentages for each scent, so you might have to do research a little about what are the base, middle and top notes are of each scent but you can kind of guess. I used the soapcalc recommended weight of the recipe. The response tells you whether your percentages are safe and whether it is a good blend. It will give you the answer in oz. or grams. I use the Brambleberry one but I think it does it one scent at a time. I’m very new to soaping so not sure if there is a place on the Brambleberry calculator that helps figure out a blend of EOs.
You can use our calculator for essential oil blends, this post shows you how: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-blend-essential-oils-safely/
hello madam am very interest about this business and i want to learn more so that I can start it as my own job,,,,,i am from Ghana,,,,,I will join ur business
If you’re interested in selling your soap, we have resources that can help. I’ll link those below.
Selling Soap (Part One): http://www.soapqueen.com/business/so-you-want-to-sell-your-soap-part-one/
Two: http://www.soapqueen.com/business/so-you-want-to-sell-your-soap-part-2/
Three: http://www.soapqueen.com/business/so-you-want-to-sell-your-soap-part-3/
Find more tips in the Business Musings section: https://www.soapqueen.com/category/business/
Those posts are based on U.S. regulations, so you’ll need to check with your local government to learn more.
So if I don’t have palm oil, what can i use instead?
I have everything else.
Love your tutorials.
Babassu oil can be used in place of palm oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Babassu-Oil–P6807.aspx
You can also add a hard oil like cocoa butter up to 15% to add firmness like palm oil does. Coconut oil or tallow up to 33% work as well. Read more about common oils and what properties they add to soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
This post on substituting oils has some great information too: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
I would like to make this soap using BB swirl mix.
Do I simply use the total ounces of oil?
Thanks and for the record LOVE the mixs.
Yes, that’s correct – just enter 33 ounces in the the Swirl Quick Mix section on the Lye Calculator. That’s a great option for this recipe.
Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Swirl Quick Mix: https://www.brambleberry.com/Swirl-Recipe-Quick-Mix-P5526.aspx
I am a brand new soaper. When I buy the kit- does it come already measured? I just put it together ? or were are the measurements?
When you select “Add to Cart,” it will add everything you need for this kit. The items aren’t premeasured so you will need to do that using a scale: https://www.brambleberry.com/Bramble-Berrys-Perfect-Scale-P3684.aspx
You can find the measurements in the pink “Lavender & Charcoal Soap DIY” section and also the recipe card at the bottom of the post.
Hello good afternoon Kelsey, I would like to make some suvinaire soap, could you please give me some like to accessories that I can use to make my soap breath taking.thanks
My melt and pour soap is sweating, even when I wrap them in a ling wrapping paper
Absolutely, we have lots of melt and pour tutorials that include designs like swirls, layers, and embeds. Find inspiration here: https://www.soapqueen.com/category/bath-and-body-tutorials/melt-and-pour-soap/
For the sweating, you want to wrap the soap tightly with plastic wrap and shrink it on using a heat gun. Then, keep the soap in a cool, dry place.
This post has more on how to prevent sweating: http://www.soapqueen.com/personal-ramblings/augh-whats-that-all-over-my-soap-2/
And this video shows you how to shrink wrap soap: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lD4bJgtaHMg
Hi Anne-Marie and Soap Queen Folks!
How would this receipe differ if I used shea butter over the palm oil?
I’m a new soaper and would love to know if I need to put this on a heating pad to help with the gel phase and if it needs to be insulated.
Thanks for your help
You can use shea butter in this recipe up to 15%. We don’t recommend more than that, otherwise the bars can feel brittle. To make up for that leftover 10%, you can increase the coconut oil to 30% and the olive oil to 45%. The bars will feel softer without the palm oil but the shea and coconut will help add firmness.
Remember to run your recipe through the Lye Calculator after any substitutions: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
This post on substituting oils has more information: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Shea butter: https://www.brambleberry.com/Shea-Butter-P3220.aspx
Same question. Heating pad to help with gel phase and insulation?
You can use a heating pad if you like, especially if your house is cooler. Place the soap on a heating pad set to medium for 20 minutes. Then, turn it off but leave the soap on for 24 hours. You can also cover the soap with cardboard and a towel to keep it warm.
Learn more about gel phase here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/gel-phase/
And more about when to insulate soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/when-to-insulate-handmade-soap/
Thanks again BB for a great video. I don’t think I would be where I am today with my soaping venture if it wasn’t for you all and other great soapers!! Is it possible to use liquid coconut milk or fresh goats milk ( I have so much from a local farm) in place of water for this recipe? Thanks again , and looking forward to another year of soaping with you all!!!
From
New Mexico
Absolutely, you can add coconut or goat milk to this recipe for a silky feeling on the skin. Milk can scorch if it gets too hot, so we recommend freezing it before adding the lye. Learn more about working with milk here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/
Thanks for your sweet comment too, it means a lot to us.
I’d like to change the white to a lavender color. What do you suggest? I love gray & lavender combos!
Lavender Mica would look really lovely in this recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Lavender-Mica-P6378.aspx
If you prefer natural colorants, purple Brazilian clay is the way to go: https://www.brambleberry.com/Purple-Brazilian-Clay-P5497.aspx
How much would I need to buy of the Lavender Mica?
The 1 ounce size would be plenty for this recipe. Mix 1 teaspoon of the color into 1 tablespoon of a lightweight oil like sweet almond. Then add 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time at trace until you get a color you like.
Sweet almond oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sweet-Almond-Oil-P3205.aspx
Hi, I miss the recipe sheet that you used to be able to print out on one sheet of paper. I print out the recipes and keep them in a binder with my own notes for costing purposes and notes on how the recipe worked for me, plus I review other people’s comments to keep the info updated.
Thanks for your suggestion, we’ll get a recipe card added.
Thanks for adding the recipe card. I find it to be very helpful.
The video lacks proper written directions and so fast. Not at all like you BB. The music is annoying too. Soaping is not a race.
Thanks for your feedback Terry. We’re experimenting with different video styles, so you’ll see more videos with talking as well as these shorter ones. If you have any questions about the directions let me know, we’re happy to help.
I think the video was great. You already have the written instructions to go by and the video is just a bonus. I actually like this video as it’s not as long an drawn out as some if the rest. Great job, look forward to seeing more.
Thanks Amanda, glad you enjoyed the video.
Looks beautiful, I am keen to try the swirl technique, love using natural colours.
The non-precise swirling techniques are interesting because every bar looks different. Have fun giving it a try Liz.
Beautiful soap, like always. I must say that I like your older videos where you explain everything you are doing. I am a very skilled, experienced soaper largely do to you on this site and your detailed videos. I hate to see newer soapers missing out on all the teaching I have gained here and on other sites. No hate here, just a comment and thanks again for all you do and all you’ve taught me!
Oops, just caught the typo! Sorry everybody!
We’re experimenting with different video styles, so you’ll see more videos with talking as well as these shorter ones.
When you add the charcoal it appears to be in liquid form, but the charcoal is purchased as a powder (and goes “poof” when you start to stir it in). How are you making it into liquid form?
You can use a lightweight oil like sweet almond. Mix 1 tablespoon of the charcoal into 1 tablespoon of the oil. Then, add the dispersed charcoal at trace. That helps it mix in easily with no clumps.
Sweet almond oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sweet-Almond-Oil-P3205.aspx