Anne-Marie Faiola, Author at Soap Queen

The Ability to Self-Soothe

September 14, 2008 Filed Under: Bramble Berry News

Creating a Comforting Scent from Childhood

The ability to self-sooth is necessary for anyone going into the field of psychology. Partnering with an individual on the journey of emotional healing and spiritual reconciliation is taxing for both the patient and the therapist. After a day of giving proper focus to a client, a therapist can feel drained and psychically exhausted. It is important for any therapist to find healthy and fulfilling ways to center and re-energize. For those entering the field of art therapy, creativity is central in this process.

A group of Masters and Doctorate students in the Art Therapy program at Antioch University Seattle gathered for an experiential which focused on the concept of self-soothing. The directives were to create a comforting perfume that was reminiscent of childhood then compose a poem or piece of short prose about the experience. Using perfume-making supplies donated by Bramble Berry, Inc., seventeen students joyfully set out to self-sooth.

We were thrilled to be asked to participate in such a fun creative course. Since we work primarily with fragrances and soap supplies, none of us had ever heard of this type of art therapy and were intrigued by it all.

The following are some examples of the perfumes created and their accompanying poems.

Perfume Name:Sierra Madre Courtship

Scents used:Moonlight Pomegranate, Cold Water, Kentish Rain

O deep brown eyes

Makes my heart go pitter pat

He’s such a privilege

Perfume Name:Willow Fields

Scents used:Nag Champa, Patchouli

Romping through the weeping willows,

Waving to me in the wind,

I am at home with the Earth,

Romping through the weeping willows.

Perfume Name:Compilation/Moth Balls

Scents used:Patchouli, Honeysuckle, Spearmint

Old Scarves

Hyperaware

Birds drink/suckle

Eating flowers

Dirt

Garlic, sweat

Car oil

Perfume Name:Default Setting

Scents used:Moonlight Pomegranate, Orange Peel Cybilla

I kind of like lilies

But it didn’t smell like lilies

I kind of like lavender

But it didn’t smell like lavender

So I made a smell like Christmas

Perfume Name:Honey Bunch

Scents used:Oatmeal Milk and Honey, vanilla Select, Almond Cybilla, Kentish Rain

Sugary Sweet

Honey suckle

Fresh garden

Candy fun

Perfume Name:Treefort

Scents used:Peppermint,ChristmasForest

I played in a tree fort at a family cottage with my sister & cousins.

Lots of cedar, spruce, & white pine around.

I made a zip line & then flipped off it

& landed on my head when I was 11

Perfume Name:Baby Ava

Scents used:Vanilla Baby Powder Surplus, Oatmeal, Milk & Honey, Moonlight Pomegranate, Vanilla Select

You came so unexpected,

A true gift for the world.

So sweet and pure and innocent.

My brand new baby girl.

I wish that I could wrap you up to protect you from all harm.

I know you will live & learn,

And grow up to be strong.

But for now you are my little girl,

And I will keep you close and warm.

Perfume Name:Mom’s Christmas Cake

Scents used:Nag Champa, Almond Cybilla, Lilac, Lavender, Jasmine Dreams, Honeysuckle, Orange Peel Cybilla, Oatmeal Milk and Honey, Moondlight Pomegranate, Green Garden Cybilla

The early morning anticipation of the candied fruit & the almond oil. Using all my strength to mix the batter, round & round. Getting antsy, I just can’t wait for the time to come when we pour the batter into the pans & I am left with the best part: the spoon & bowl.

When Mold Strikes

September 12, 2008 Filed Under: Lotion

Mold Growth 2 Months after Mold Discovery

Initial Mold Growth, 4 months after product was purchased

I get asked, a lot, about preservatives in lotions. The post about Organic & Natural standards prompted Shelly to ask about Bramble Berry’s official stance on preservatives in the “Comments” section of the post. The question about preservative is probably the number one asked question here at Bramble Berry. My standard answer always goes something like:

“I really wish there was a failsafe way for you to use only natural preservatives in your lotions. If there was, I’m betting the really big guys would be using them more. The truth is that right now, there are a lot of great antioxidants like ROE or Vitamin E on the market but the natural-natural preservatives just coming into vogue aren’t ideal for the home crafter.

Germaben II or Phenonip is used as less than 1% of the total ingredient in your lotion. I think that people probably do more damage to themselves by carrying around an extra few pounds or eating a Twinkie once a month than they do by having that 1% of preservative in their product.

Plus, if anything were to happen (shudder), you might end up growing a microbe in your lotion that actually harmed someone.”

Bramble Berry’s official position on preservatives is that for the home crafter, a full spectrum anti microbial such as Germaben II or Phenonip is the most safe and responsible way to preserve lotions.

Imagine my surprise and dismay when a chic-chic body cream I purchased at (throat clear) “A Big Name Salon in Seattle” started molding and growing hairs! Ewwww … I checked the ingredients list. Sure enough, there are awesome antioxidants (Honeysuckle Extract & Vitamin E) but no effective preservatives.

I called the manufacturer to let them know, figuring they’d want to know how I stored the lotion (on my desk), how old it was (three months since date of purchase) and if there was a batch number on it (there wasn’t). They graciously replaced the lotion.

Play it safe and use a preservative in your lotion products until natural preservatives become easy and efficient to use for home crafters.

Crest Soaps by PJ

September 10, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

PJ, the talented soap artist who created the Realistic Clamshell Project from last week, made a piece of medieval artwork using just simple soap colors, the Milky Way Crest Mold and the PJ Tool Kit.

PJ did some research about her mold and had this to say about the historical realism of Milky Way’s work:

Did you know it’s a “real” crest of sorts? Whenever I get a mold that looks like it might be taken (even in part) from something that actually exists I like to do a little research and get some basics to at least make it look recognizable (or in this case to avoid insulting some family line) hehehe. Anyway, I just happened to find nearly the exact same crest called the “Rampant Lion Crest”:

http://www.medievalcollectibles.com/images/S112%20Large.jpg
http://www.medievalcollectibles.com/rampant-lion-crest-8478.html

A soap artist and a historian to boot … PJ is a soaper of many talents.

Competing Oraganic & Natural Certifications

September 9, 2008 Filed Under: Business Musings

The eco-chic trend is the all rage these days. It’s about decadence and pampering while being friendly and gentle to our environment and bodies. The trend is taking off and so are the prices of many organic products.

In the United States, the USDA has a certification program but it’s primarily there to address the needs of food and edible products, not beauty products. France has their Ecocert program and the UK has the Soil Association. The Soil Association will certify beauty products as organic and charge for this based on a sliding fee scale of revenue. Back in the U.S., the “big dogs” (like Whole Foods) are trying codify the standards for natural body and beauty products.Here are three new certification labels to watch for in the fight for dominance of this space in the beauty industry.

Whole Foods has a product line called Nude that launched in 2004 and is sealed with a Premium Body Care label. The label identifies over 250 ingredients that are unacceptable for products including parabens, sodium lauryl sulfates and polyethylene glycols (check out the entire list here). To meet this label’s standards the product must pass the test by using the mildest of preservatives, the safest surfactants and premium standard fragrances oils.

OASIS (Organic And Sustainable Industry Standards) is a standard represented by companies such as Estee Lauder and L’Oreal. To seal your products with the OASIS label, the product must be 85 % certified organic (and soon to be 95 %, wowza!). Keep an eye out for the OASIS seal, it’s said to be coming out sometime this year.

The IOS cosmetic standards one of North America’s first system certification standard for organic and natural cosmetics. To meet this label’s standard the product must be 95% of natural origin and include recyclable packaging. It also must be manufactured with out producing any toxins.

What does this mean for the little guys? It means that potential customers will become more educated about the terms “natural” and “organic” and ask you more clarifying questions prior to purchasing. If you want to stay in the running for these categories, you’ll need to be extra careful about the ingredients that go into your products.One of my concerns around all of this codifying and competing “seals of approval” is the cost to keep up. I have a sneaking suspicion that these changes might push out the little guys (certification can be expensive), leaving total domination of the natural and organic body care industry to those that can afford it (i.e. well established, larger brands).

Orca Soap by Nahia Creations

September 8, 2008 Filed Under: Personal Ramblings

Shelly from Nahia Creations (see previous posts about Nahia Creations great products here and here) made some gorgeous melt and pour soap this weekend, using the Bramble Berry Orca mold.

Her soap turned out great. The detail work around the eye is appealing and adds to the realistic look of the soap.

Burning Wishes … or Tablecloths (video)

September 7, 2008 Filed Under: Personal Ramblings

I had the honor to host my (soon to be) sister in law’s Bridal Shower last night. At a bit of a loss about what to do, I was relieved to find these on the Rare Bird Finds blog. They had the scoop about Flying Wish Paper. As for the folks at Flying Wish Paper, they were a joy to work with, answering emails quickly and expediting my order with nary a fuss.

What *is* Flying Wish Paper? It’s a special paper that “flies.” Just write your wish on the Flying Wish Paper, shape it into a tube, light the top and watch as your wish burns down then dramatically rises into the sky.

For Cheriss’s Bridal Shower, it was perfect. The flying wishes were a classy twist on the traditional toast. And, bonus, it even had some action associated with it. I practiced a few times at the Bramble Berry offices prior to the big night. My wishes flew perfectly at the office. Note: If you’re an email subscriber, the video below will not show up in your InBox. Click through to the blog to see it.

The actual lighting of the wishes at Du Jour Bistro went a bit awry because of the fans. The air current kept pushing our little Wish Towers over, with flames attempting to burn holes in the tablecloths in the lovely backroom at Du Jour. We had a few close calls with the tablecloths but all was well and I was reminded about the importance of following directions.

Despite some of Wish Towers falling over because of the fans, Flying Wish Papers helped facilitate a heartwarming and ultra sweet evening. I really liked the sentiments expressed by all the women at the shower. In fact, I enjoyed the poignant (yet slightly sappy) experience so much that I plan on doing the same thing at Thanksgiving with my own family.

As for the actual wedding itself, it takes place next Friday night. Our entire family is looking forward to the long-awaited event with joy and anticipation.

Citrusy Checkerboard Soap

September 6, 2008 Filed Under: Personal Ramblings

Thank you Gale, from Pregailia’s Lathers in Alabama, for this adorable Checkerboard Soap. It smells bright and citrusy! I can’t get enough of it. It’s in my shower right now, honest to blog!

Gail was my gracious chauffeur from the airport to the Alabama Soaper’s Gathering. She was a delight to hang out with and had a sparky sense of humor to boot.Thanks for the gift, Gail. I love how it’s soaping up in the shower.

Realistic Clamshells – Final Reveal

September 5, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Click here for Day One
Click here for Day Two
Click here for Day Three

Check out the creative results from the class! Most of the students at the Soapmaking Weekend Intensive had never made soap of any type. The bumps and irregularities add to the natural look of the soap.

If you want to make your own Realistic Clamshell Soap, you can buy all of the supplies in one handy-dandy kit here.

Realistic Clamshell Soaps – Day Three

September 4, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Click here for Day One
Click here for Day Two

When the first two thin layers are set and the striping is to your satisfaction, cover and zap the small container of white soap for 30 seconds or so. When heated add one dropper of Gardenia Fragrance and blend well.

Cover and set nearby.

Before pouring your white layer into your mold lavishly spray one cavity 5-6 times with rubbing alcohol covering all exposed surfaces in the mold and immediately pour in about 2 tablespoons of white soap and roll the mold around until ALL the white soap seeps into the crevices (i.e., the stripes you created with the fork and cleaning tool). It doesn’t matter at this point how ugly a mess you think you’ve created or how thick and blobbed your white soap is – it will just add character to the bar as it is used. Use the scraper tool to replace any spilled soap into the container it originated from.

Let the white layer set for at least 15 minutes, then reheat your large container of black sea moss soap if needed (not too hot), spray one cavity at a time and fill quickly with black until all cavities are filled. Click here if you missed how to make the black color on Day Two. It’s the first paragraph. Pour the black soap now. It should be cool enough to not melt the first few layers after cooling for 15 minutes.

Notice the poised Rubbing Alcohol Spritzer. This ensures that layers will stick together and that there will not be unsightly bubbles on your finished soap.

After the soaps have cooled (for at least 4 hours), you can cover the cooled soaps still in the mold with plastic wrap and turn detail side up in your freezer under the blower for 3 minutes then pull out and give one quick firm push to each cavity. Check back tomorrow for the final reveal photos.

Realistic Clamshell Soaps – Day Two

September 3, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Click here for Day One

While waiting for the second layer to harden, use the large container and melt 16-20 oz of clear shaving soap for 55 seconds, checking, stirring and heating an additional 30 seconds until melted. Add black oxide (click here to see how to use oxides in Melt and Pour) and color soap dark enough to hide your white scraping tool up to the point where the handle starts – if you can see to the far end of the tool you need to add a little more black. You could just dump a bunch of black oxide in but this way (“the sort of opaque yet also still translucent” way) you get just enough to create a black bar while not also ending up with black suds. When you are happy with the color, add 5 or so full droppers of Sea Moss Fragrance Oil. Cover and set aside.

Check your layers and carve extra gloppy soap away – but don’t try to make it perfect. You just need to get an even look so that the tines of the fork go through and into all parts of the soap easily.

Using your fork, push the tines in at the narrow end of the mold through the first two thin layers until you are touching the bottom of the mold, slowly pulling the fork across the bottom of the shell mold (in an arching pattern across the ridges of the shell) while applying pressure.

The idea here is to create stripes/striations without pulling the actual layers up from the bottom of the mold – you just want to pull up the thin lines/stripes. Most forks will allow for two arching passes along the bottom of the mold (one smaller arch at the bottom of the shell and another above that). This is a slow process. Don’t rush it, lest you make holes in your layers.

Apply this process to each cavity then when you are done with the fork, get your double sided cleanup tool and using the pointy/curved end, make sure each of the stripes go all the way to the bottom. I also usually like to widen 3 random stripes to give a more natural look to the finished soap.

Hold up to the light to check your work. Note the variety of line widths. This helps to add to the natural final effect of the soap. Also, in the photo below, notice the large chunks of brown soap missing. This hole effect happens if you rush a bit during the forking tine process.

Tomorrow, we’ll cover striping and the black layer.

Realistic Clamshell Soaps – Day One

September 2, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

What You’ll Need (4 Bars of Soap):

Pre-heat 4 quart pan of water on simmer (for rinsing your tools)

1 dropperful of Gardenia Fragrance Oil

1 dropperful of Sensuous Sandalwood

6 dropperful of Sea Moss Fragrance Oil

6 oz Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base

32 oz Shaving Melt and Pour Base

Brown Oxide

Green Oxide

Black Oxide

4 microwavable containers one large 20 oz and three smaller 8 oz

Clam Shell Mold

Clean Up Tool

Injector Soap Tool

Straight Metal Fork with Tines

Rubbing Alcohol

Plastic wrap

Heat your water to a low simmer. Cut your 6 oz of Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base Base into ice cube size pieces, place in one of the small containers, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut 6 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base, place in small container, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut another 6 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base place in small container, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut about 16—20 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base into small pieces, place into the large container and cover with plastic wrap.

At this point you have:
1 small container of Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base Base
2 small containers of Shaving Melt and Pour Base
1 large container of Shaving Melt and Pour Base

For 30 seconds microwave one of the small containers of Shaving Melt and Pour Base (heat 10 additional seconds at a time if needed) and add a little of brown oxide (not sure how to use oxides in Melt and Pour Soap? Click here to be taken to a tutorial on using Oxides in MP soap) and one dropper of Sea Moss fragrance. The result should be a translucent amber liquid soap that does not burn your pinkie finger. In the photo above, we’re using pre-mixed brown oxide in liquid glycerin. You can make up your own color blend using the instructions referenced above (here).

Pour about a Tablespoon and a half of the light translucent soap into one of the cavities and turn the entire mold until you’ve covered the sides and bottom of the mold. The layer doesn’t need to be even or even look like anything special and don’t worry about spilling soap over the sides as you can always wait a minute or two and use the scraper tool to replace any spilled soap into the container it originated from. Do the same for each of the cavities. We call this the “Swirl ‘n’ Twirl” method. Keep rotating the mold around in a circular fashion until the bulk of the soap has hardened up fully on all sides. It’s okay if it’s a little thicker in places.

Now, for 30 seconds take the 2nd small container of clear soap cover it and melt in the microwave for 30 seconds or so and add 5 parts of brown oxide, one part black oxide and one part of green oxide (heat 10 additional seconds at a time if needed, stirring each time); when melted add one dropper of Sandalwood fragrance. The teacher for this method, PJ, likes to scent each layer separately. This is an optional thing. If you’d like one fragrance for all the layers, it won’t affect the integrity of the soap at all.

One at a time, spray with rubbing alcohol the first translucent layer in one of your shell molds and immediately add about a tablespoon and a half of the dark brown soap into the mold on top of the translucent soap, turning the mold until the sides and bottom are mostly covered (imperfections at this layer add to the look of the soap). Keep rotating the mold around in a circular fashion until the bulk of the soap has hardened up fully on all sides. It’s okay if it’s a little thicker in places. Use the scraper tool to replace any spilled soap into the container it originated from.

Check back for the rest of this week as we finish the Clam Shell Project, creating realistic shells out of just soap and a little skill.

On Golden Frond

September 1, 2008 Filed Under: Bramble Berry News

I’m lucky to work with a talented crew who like to make soap and are creative in many areas of their lives. In addition to be a talented gardener, Kelly runs the warehouse at Bramble Berry. To make these soaps, she used our White Soap Base and Hemp Soap Base. For coloring these little beauties, Kelly used Coral Mica, Heavy Metal Gold Mica, and a mix of the Liquid Yellow Oxide and Liquid Blue Oxide as well as the natural colors of the soap bases. For example, the third soap in with the slightly tan background? That’s the color the actual Hemp soap base is. The mold is the Milky Way Frond design.

Kelly is a mix master supreme when it comes to fragrancing. She blended together Passionfruit Papaya, Champagne, and a mystery bottle from the pouring mistake shelf that most likely contained Kumquat and Creamsicle. The resulting soaps are fruity fun with just a twist of effervescence.

Summer Delight

August 30, 2008 Filed Under: Personal Ramblings

It’s one of the last weekends of summer – well, summer as only Washington can do. The actual temperature high today is a grand total of 59 but without any rain, it’s a close facsimile of an actual summer.

My brother is getting married in a few weeks and we’re doing family pre-wedding fun, with some of the family at a local lake. We’re playing frisbee, having a BBQ and getting ready to head out for some inner-tubing fun on the lake.

Before starting the family merriment, Erik did work a partial day at Otion. Check out the new display the talented Ashley at Otion made up, in celebration of new fragrance “Blueberry Delight.” She used the embeddable ice cube star tray mold, cupcake mold and guest swirls mold. Ashley also did the Peppermint Swirl technique in the Milky Way Oval mold.

I hope you and your loved ones are having a safe and happy Labor Day Weekend.

Summer Flip Flop Soaps

August 29, 2008 Filed Under: Bath & Body Tutorials, Melt & Pour Soap

These flip flop soaps for summer are simple to make and look impressive when finished.

Here’s what you will need to make these simple yet fabulous soaps

.5 lb of Shea Melt and Pour

Blue Mix LabColor

Lavender Fragrance Oil

Aloha Flip Flop Mold

Rubbing Alcohol Spritzer

1 Dropper

Step One: Melt a small amount of your Shea Melt and Pour in a microwave safe dish (Pyrex or a coffee mug will work). Stir in a couple drops of your fragrance oil (usage rate is .25-.5 ounces per pound of soap). Fill your dropper with the white soap base and pour it into the flower/thong part of the flip flop soap mold. Give this a spritz with alcohol to get rid of those bubbles.

Step Two: After the first layer has had a chance to solidify, melt the rest of your soap in the microwave. Add your Lavender Fragrance Oil and 1 drop of your Blue Mix LabColor. Add more color if you want a darker blue. I loved the pastel color that I got with just 1 drop. If you want a bright blue, just remember that you’ll want to use clear soap because white + blue = light baby pastel blue. Before you add your blue layer, give your first layer another spritz with alcohol to ensure that your layers will stick together. Fill the mold to the top with your beautiful blue soap and spritz once again for a smooth finish.

Step Three: Let the soaps cool for about 5-6 hours before popping them out of their molds.