World Wide Soaping
“I am perfectly happy with your products and especially happy with your service. I have to say this, because I live in Puerto Rico, and you know sometimes the shipping and delivery costs are very high and that is the hard point when selling our products. So your company always helps me manage costs in a very efficient way. Thanks for that!!”
Thanks for your email, Liliana! It made my day here in Washington DC.Check out her beautiful soaps below. I’m sure once the Brambleberrians are awake and get to work that they’ll be oohing and ahhing over the cuteness all day.
Thank you Lillian for sharing.
Flexible Loaf Mold is here!
Our cupcake molds sold out within a record 4 days (don’t worry, they’re back in stock now though). Don’t get left behind on our latest addition, the long-promised Flexible Loaf Mold.
If you missed the projects using it, click here, here, here, here, here or here to see the mold in action. We tested it a lot! If you’d like to learn how to make geometric soaps, like the one pictured above, click here to be taken to that tutorial.
The latest fragrances to touch earth at Bramble Berry is Hello Sweet Thang! with Blueberry Delight (or we might call it Blueberry Syrup – we’re undecided), Fresh Snow (think clean, ozone and crisp), and Cream Cheese Frosting close on its heels. Look for thosein the next few weeks.
Soap Queen’s Featured Designer
Regular readers of the Soap Queen blog will know that I’ve been in awe of Debbie Chialtis, aka SoapyLove, for quite some time now. See previous fawning posts about her and her work here, here, here, here, here, here and here. She graciously did an interview for the Soap Queen blog in 2007. Click here to see that interview.
Debbie’s melt and pour style is crisp and clean with well thought out color choices and clear lines. She will be Guest Blogging projects for the next three months as our Featured Soap Designer. Every time she posts, you’ll see the banner up top to alert you at a glance that creative genius is in progress.
Debbie is an accomplished teacher, both in person and in writing. In fact, she has a book coming out late next year from North Light Books with the tentative title of “Soapy Love.” Many of the projects that she will be doing for the book are showcased here. In person, Debbie is charming, talented and hands on in her instruction. We were lucky enough to have her teach at the Soap Weekend Intensive this year. You can follow along with those projects on this blog in the upcoming few months. Links to the schedule and corresponding kits are here. Debbie has a paying gig as a teacher for a fashion design college in California when she’s not wrangling her two (adorable) children, or making Soapsicles galore for one of her many wholesale clients.
Look for Debbie‘s first project to start tomorrow. While I’ll be on a plane to Washigton DC, I know you’ll be in good hands with Debbie’s creativity. Her first Guest Blog is about my second favorite obsession.
My latest Soap Purchase
I just purchased soap from VodaSoap.com Among other things, I got a 4 bar set of soaps and an Anise soap, just in case I decide to give the beautiful boxed set away. I also picked up one of their Amber Body Butters. I can hardly wait to get these gorgeously displayed and subtly colored soaps into my greedy little hands.
Contents of Delinah Box Set
Glimmering Little Ghosts
The Law with Unintended Consequences
Recently, the FDA (U.S. Food and Drug Administration) announced that it was considering legislation to strengthen food, drug and cosmetic safety (see the Draft Discussion here). While I sincerely believe that the FDA and all that testified on behalf of the legislation have the consumers’ best interests at heart, I am deeply concerned about the unintended consequences of this action. I am so concerned about the ramifications of this legislation that I will be heading to Washington DC next week to speak on behalf of Bramble Berry’s customer base and add my voice to all of you who have worked hard to turn this hobby into a business. Joining me will be three amazing women: Donna Maria Coles Johnson from the Indie Beauty Network, Lela Barker from Belle Lucce, Jamila White from jBlossom.com and Kayla Fioravanti from Essential Wholesale. We will be meeting with staff of the House Energy & Commerce Committee (under whom this discussion framework is moving forward), Senator Kerry (Senator Kerry chairs the Senate Committee on Small Business & Entrepreneurship) and the Deputy Press Secretary for Congressman Jesse Jackson Jr. Rep. Jackson serves on the Subcommittee on Agriculture, Rural Development, Food and Drug Administration and Related Agencies.
In a nutshell, the FDA Globalization Act of 2008, is designed to impose stringent monitoring, manufacturing and reporting requirements on all products under FDA purview. The “Cosmetics” portion of the bill is actually very small (1/64th of the entire bill) in relation to the “Food” portion. None the less, the implications for small, home based crafters and cosmetic manufacturers, is concerning.
This legislation is coming at a time when cosmetics and personal care consumers have never had more choice, nor have the products they have to choose from ever been more safe. Just look at these quotes from experts:
Pamela Bailey, President of the Personal Care Products Councill (formerly CFTA), stated in her April 12th testimony to the Energy & Commerce Committee, “Cosmetics and Personal Care Products are the safest category regulated by the FDA.”
Additionally, Stephen F. Sundolff of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition stated, “The FDA’s oversight has ensured that the Nation’s cosmetics are among the safest in the world.”
The experts quoted above believe the system is already working and we here at Bramble Berry are pleased to help you make some of the most useful, safe and innovative products in the country.
Consumer safety is important to me. I am a strong advocate of proper ingredients labeling, best manufacturing practices and education. As Bramble Berry’s founder and CEO, I am consistently impressed with your commitment to the safety and purity of your products. This is why I am so concerned about this legislation.
With this potential legislation at our doorstep, it imperative that you review all of your products, formulations and manufacturing practices to ensure that you are within full compliance of all current laws for home crafters and cosmetic manufacturers. This new proposed legislation will do nothing to strengthen the cosmetics industry safety. Rather it will just be a bigger burden which could force some small producers out of the market.
The areas in the current discussion framework which I find particularly disturbing are:
• Requirements that you register all of your formulations with the FDA – Cosmetic manufacturers select from a list of approved ingredients generally regarded as safe by the FDA. This rule would add another unnecessary burdensome reporting requirement onto small businesses. Who exactly of the 18 people currently employed by the FDA to oversee Cosmetics is going to look at the formulations? If there were 100,000 large and small manufacturers, each with 25 formulations … well, that’s a lot of paperwork to go through! Not to mention, as a small business owner, you’re already doing enough, stressed to the max and now you’re going to need to fill out forms rather than work on bettering your business? Yikes. Talk about tying your hands with red tape. Consider also the stifling effect such a reporting requirement will have on new product innovation, or even minor improvements made to old products.
• Requirements that you report all “Potential Adverse Reactions” to the FDA – Again, through self-regulation (GRAS list, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) there is a comprehensive list of approved (and not approved) ingredients to use. Who is to say what a “potential adverse reaction” might be? I might have an adverse reaction to the foundation I just made … if I put it directly on my eye. No one can legislate or know what consumers do with our end products. Why would the government want us to even try? According to the Personal Care Council, every year, out of 11 BILLION personal care products sold, there are less than 150 adverse reactions. That’s a safety factor of .00000000136%. There is no evidence that the current laws and regulations are not working. In fact, the excellent safety record of the Cosmetics Industry proves the contrary.
• Fees, fees and more fees will jeopardize businesses all over America. In uncertain economic times, it is imperative that Americans have choices about how they earn their money. At the minimum, this act would require a registration fee of between $2000 up to $12,000 per year, no exceptions. 95% of Bramble Berry’s extensive customer base would not be able to bear this burden. In fact, only 40% of our customer base grosses over $250 in sales per month. Yet, it is from this very customer base that the next Mary Kay or Estee Lauder may arise.
Just think of how these three points might affect YOUR business. The time to act is now. This law has many unintended consequences. Rather than strengthening the cosmetics industry, it will force thousands of small producers out of the market. And, where there is less choice, there is always a higher price in the end.
If you haven’t yet signed the petition, there is still time. Head to Indie Beauty Network’s site here. Be sure to sign your name, business name and city and state.
I’ll be in DC next week – let me know what you think is important for the committee to hear. What would you tell them? I’d love to meet you at the Indie’s In the City meet-up after our busy day of meetings on the Hill. Learn more about that meet-up and RSVP here.
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Resources & Links referenced in the post:
Committee on Energy & Commerce: http://energycommerce.house.gov/FDAGlobalAct-08/index.shtml
Discussion Draft Legislation: http://energycommerce.house.gov/FDAGlobalAct-08/Dingel_60AXML.pdf
Testimony of Janet Woodcock, M.D., Director, Center for Drug Evaluation and Research http://www.fda.gov/ola/2008/fdaglobalact050108.html
Testimony of Stephen Sundolff for Center for Food Safety And Applied Nutrition http://www.fda.gov/ola/2008/devices051408.html
Testimony of Patricia Bailey of the Personal Care Products Council http://energycommerce.house.gov/cmte_mtgs/110-he-hrg.051408.DiscDraftCosmetics.shtml
Testimony of Center for Science in the Public Interest: http://www.cspinet.org/foodsafety/fdaglobalizationact.pdf
Citrus Soap Review and Links
Day One – Making Tube Citrus Soaps (soap on top right in above photo)
Day Two – Making Tube Citrus Soaps (soap on top right)
Day Three – Making Mold Citrus Soaps (soap on bottom right)
Day Four – Making Mold Citrus Soaps (soap on bottom right)
Day Five – Making Realistic Citrus Soaps (soap on top left)
Day Six – Making Realistic Citrus Soaps (soap on top left)
Citrus Soap – Day Six – The Realistic Way
Click here to be taken to Part A of these instructions.
1. Pull out a piece of saran wrap long enough to hold all of your citrus slices. Carefully position your “rind” soap on the saran wrap. Pull the wrap tight to make sure there are no wrinkles under the “rind”. Do the best you can – the wrap never quite gets straightened or perfect.
2. Spritz the “rind” and inside of the rind (onto the plastic wrap) with rubbing alcohol. Pour a thin layer of clear soap into the rind.
3. Spritz the thin layer of clear soap with rubbing alcohol. Place the “slices” into the clear layer of soap, before it hardens. Wiggle them into the perfect positioning. Have your paring knife handy just in case you need to slice off a too-large slice piece to ensure evenly spaced out soap.
4. Spray the entire set up with alcohol. Alcohol is your friend in this case. It helps with adhesion of the soap pieces.
5. Allow this clear layer to harden up prior to the next step. This usually takes 3 to 5 minutes at the most. If you do not allow your clear layer to harden up, the Lemon Slice below is a good example of what happens – the white soap will leak out the sides of the slice.
6. Melt White melt and pour soap in the microwave, double boiler or whatever method you prefer. Make sure the white soap is not steaming or else it will melt your slices. For the Bramble Berry House Bases, 120 to 130 degrees is the best option for the overpour.
7. Spritz with alcohol. Using either a steady hand, you can pour directly into the middle of the soap slices from your heat safe container. The Melt & Pour Injector Tool is fabulous for this because it allows precision targeting with the white soap base. Using the Injector is my preferred method for this soap. It has less mess and trimming to work with after the soap hardens.
8. Give one final spritz and you’re all done. Allow the soap to harden. Peel the soap off the plastic, cut into slices or wrap whole.
Voila – you’re done! Realistic Citrus Slices that are easy and fun to make.
Citrus Soap – Day Five – The Realstic Way
What You’ll Need:
clear melt and pour
white melt and pour
non-bleeding liquids, Labcolors or Micas (Exact colors used for this project are Apricot Blush Mica mixed with Orange Mica)
Fragrance oil (Good ones are Yuzu, Tangerine EO, Synergy EO blend, Energy and Creamsickle)
Droppers or PJ Tool Kit
Silicone Brownie Tray (a must-have for soap crafting)
Pyrex container
Biscuit Cutters or a Round Cookie Cutter
Spoons
Rubbing Alcohol in a spritzer bottle
Saran Wrap
Paring Knife (or small cheese knife)
1. Melt 16 ounces of soap in the microwave. Color and fragrance based on your color preference. Place your silicone mold on a flat surface and wipe it out with an alcohol-dampened paper towel. This is to ensure your mold is clean and dust free.
2. Pour the soap into the mold and wait for it to fully harden. Once it is hardened, peel the soap out of the mold.
3. Most biscuit cutters will come with three to four sizes of cutters. Choose a large, medium and small sized cutter. Ideally, you want one cutter size in between the two sizes you choose. The larger cutter will be the “rind” size and the smallest cutter makes the “slices”.
Push down firmly with the larger of the cutters until the entire flat piece of soap looks like a pockmarked slice of cheese.
4. Take the medium cutter cutter and cut out holes inside the larger circles. Save the medium circle cut outs and the round circle rinds.
5. Now, take the medium inside cutout circle and cut into it with the smallest slice. Save the round that comes from this for other fun projects to do with melt and pour. For the remainder of this Citrus Slice Soap Project, you will only use the large rind (step #3) and the small circular cut out (step #5).
6. Cut each small circle into definable citrus slices.
7. To make a realistic citrus soap, having a center adds to the effect. Carefully shave off a little snip of the tip with a small paring knife.
Check back tomorrow for the full completion of this project tabbed, day-by-day link to each of the projects.
FDA Globalization Act
The Organic Beauty Expert posted her views on the proposed FDA Globalization Act of 2008.
Excerpted from the blog post – read the rest of it here:
…the main issue is this: the American government was not created to obstruct the ability of man to create or trade. One should not have to ask permission to make a lawful living. Free men don’t ask permission; slaves ask for permission. And by the way, big beauty and their corporations, such as Estee Lauder, were mostly created by women. Women who were sitting in their kitchens with nothing but an idea. This FDA Globalization Act would essentially strip away what these women and many others like them, have created.
Citrus Soap – The Mold Way – Reveal
This is what happens if you don’t do a clear pour first. It’s difficult to push the citrus slices firmly through to the bottom of the white soap, causing sloppy looking citrus slices.
If you do the full steps, with a clear soap pour first, this is what your soap will turn out to look like:
Starting tomorrow, I’ll be finishing up the Citrus Slice Tutorial with the way I stumbled upon to create realistic looking citrus soaps.
Citrus Soap – Day Four – The Mold Way, Finished
Click here for Day One of this tutorial.
1. Cut the soap slices into six to eight pieces. Cut the sides off of a few pieces to ensure proper spacing between the citrus slices.
2. Cutting the tips off of each slice helps with a realistic look.
3. Before laying down the citrus slices in the soap, arrange them on the table first to make sure you don’t have any last minute chopping and slicing to do.
4. Spray the top layer of the clear soap with rubbing alcohol to help surface adhesion. Place each soap citrus slice gently and carefully. A level table is essential. The alcohol makes the soap slippery and an uneven table will cause the citrus slices to slide and drive you slightly crazy trying to place the slices evenly.
5. Prepare your white soap base. Melt approximately 8 ounces in the microwave. Stir until it is 120-130 degrees or until it is no longer steaming. Steaming soap melts delicate embedded pieces, like your citrus slices. Fragrance the white soap.
6. Spray your embedded soap slices with rubbing alcohol. Pour the white soap, use a dropper or PJ’s cool soap injector to fill in the white soap.
7 . Wait four to six hours for soap to fully harden before popping the soap out of your mold.
Join Me, in D.C.
Donna Maria and I are headed to Washington DC to meet with staffers for the House Energy & Commerce Committee about new proposed legislation that may have an adverse effect on toiletry manufacturers throughout the nation. If you haven’t read about it, click here to be taken to the Indie Beauty Network website to read about it. Sign the petition if you feel strongly.
Join Donna Maria and I for a short debriefing session, networking and lots of business information sharing after our meeting. We won’t just be talking about the FDA act and business – it’ll be lots of fun to meet everyone and learn more about you. If you’d like to join us on August 5th at 5:30, please RSVP on Donna Maria’s blog here.