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Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar on Soap Queen TV

Filed Under: Cold Process Soap

Difficulty: Advanced
Time: 1-2 hours
Yields: 2-3 pounds of soap

Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar

In soap making, the term “bastille,” commonly refers to cold process soap made with at least 70% olive oil. Olive oil is extremely gentle, making it the perfect oil for delicate or sensitive skin. This Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar is comprised of olive oil and a small amount of coconut oil for cleansing properties. This recipe also uses luxurious and moisturizing buttermilk. Carrot puree which is known for its antioxidant properties, is added at trace to give the soap a soft natural color. All these skin-loving and gentle ingredients make this bar great for babies and young children.

Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar Tutorial

This skin-loving soap recipe was generously shared by Amanda from Lovin Soapย (check out the original blog post here).ย Making soap with milk is an advanced soap technique. The key to milk soap is keeping the temperatures low by freezing the milk beforehand. Watch the video below to learn how, and check out the How to Add Lye to Milk for Cold Process Soap post. If you have never made cold process soap before, check out the Basics of Cold Process Soapmaking video series on Soap Queen TV; in particular, be sure to watch the video on lye safety.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
27 oz. Olive Oil- Pomace
5 oz. Coconut Oil
8 oz. Buttermilk
2.5 oz. Carrot Puree
4.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
1.5 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!ย 
Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar2

What are your favorite skin-loving additives for cold process soap?

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214 Comments

  1. Hi, If i left out the carrot puree do I need to make any adjustments to the recipe at all?

  2. Hi;
    Want to make these for a baby shower. Have little heart molds & would like to have an additive besides carrots to give it a pink color (it’s a girl). Any suggestions?
    Thanks

  3. Hi there!

    I am an experienced hot process lover, but I want to try CP in this case because of the milk.

    Does this recipe need to be insulated/covered while it cures? I read something about putting it in the freezer for 24h?

    Thanks

  4. Hello,
    Could I add Sodium Lactate at 1 tsp per pound of oils to this recipe since itโ€™s for babies or people with sensitive skin? Iโ€™d like to use pure Olive Oil, but still want a harder bar. I’ll be using a silicone mold.

    Thank you!

  5. Hi, Thank you for this recipe. So I want to make one too, I have some questions.
    1. Is it ok to use essential oil for baby ? it will not be sensitive (reaction)?
    2. I decided to put: 7% castor oil + 15% coconut oil + 20% shea butter + oil pomace balance.
    I want to have a bubbly soap, a little bit harder and less viscous (when I use a lot of oil olive the soap sticky.) Am I correct?

    thank you !

    • If your baby has sensitive skin, we recommend being extra careful and leaving these bars unscented. The lavender essential oil is used at a skin safe usage rate, but everyone’s skin is different and some may still be sensitive. Unscented is the best way to go if you’re worried!

      For a bubbly bar, I would recommend the castor oil at 2-5%. Above 5%, castor oil can make the bar feel sticky and sometimes inhibit lather. Then, you can add more coconut oil. Also, shea butter above 20% can be a bit brittle, so I would recommend that at 15%. Then, you can add more olive oil or coconut oil to cover it. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Read more about common soapmaking oils and how much to use here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  8. Hello Soap Queen and Soap princesses (and princes)!
    Thank you for all of your direction and encouragement you put into this awesomely helpful website. I have a problem/question regarding my first effort at soap making.
    I made this recipe (Baby Bastille Buttermilk soap) as my very first batch of soap in early July. I precisely followed the directions (quite unlike me). The result was bars of soap that looked EXACTLY like the pictures! Yea! I was excited and proud and hooked on soap making! I waited patiently (again, much unlike me) for 8 weeks before trying my soap out.
    The problem is: the soap has a gritty feel and tiny (very fine table sugar sized) clear particles can be seen in the soap with close up inspection. The amount of particles is small by volume
    (< 2% visually). They were not visible as the soap was curing (it looked smooth) or when I first used it. However, when I wet the soap and lathered up and rubbed the bar of soap on my skin, I noticed the bar felt scratchy. I got the buttermilk temp to 80 F, and the oils to 105 F. I had a nice medium trace when I pored it into my little loaf mold, and a few single molds, and I put them in the freezer for a day.
    I have searched the internet for answers, but I can find none. Are these tiny clear specs undissolved lye crystals? I can't think of what else they could be, or perhaps they are a result of the reaction of the sugar in the carrot puree forming sugar crystals? I haven't been able to find a description (with measurements ) of what a lye crystal would look like. When I think of a crystal, I think 1/8th inch size and larger, but I am totally new at this, and I could be wrong.
    My questions are these:
    What are these little grains?
    Is this soap safe as is (for my use only)?
    If these are lye crystals, how do I prevent this? Do I let the lye/milk solution set for a longer time before adding into the oil? I was paranoid about scorching the milk, so as soon as the T of the milk/lye hit 80 F, I promptly added it to the oils.
    Do I re-batch my perfect looking bar of cold process buttermilk soap in order to add heat and melt these little specs? Will re-batching in a crock pot actually melt these tiny scratchy grains?
    I was planning on giving out my soaps in a Christmas basket. I do not feel comfortable giving "gritty soap". If I need to, I can re-batch. I know the color will change and such, (such a shame because they are so smooth and creamy looking). It is a real bummer to find out 8 weeks later after thinking you made successful first batch of soap that you actually failed :(.
    I have since made a crock pot soap with out milk, and the texture of that soap is smooth, no grit; this leads me too believe the grit maybe a product of the low 80 F temp of the milk/lye and my promptly adding it to the oil. However, most of the internet info says to keep the T of milk low.
    How do you know when lye is completely dissolved in 100% milk mixture?
    Please advise. I am waiting for your assessment and advise before I throw it all in the crock-pot with the hopes of melting the grit.
    Thank you in advance for your reply.
    Michelle

  10. Thanks so much for another great CP recipe. I have a few questions about it, as this was my first time making a milk-based recipe.
    1. Despite the buttermilk being frozen, and then being set in an ice bath, my lye milk still hit around 115F. I know that this isn’t a scalding or scorching temp for milk, but is this too hot for the soap? I did place it in the fridge overnight.
    2. I weighed out the 8 oz of buttermilk into my ice cube tray, but when I weighed the frozen cubes themselves just before making the soap, they only weighed 7.13 oz. I’m wondering if this is normal or if there’s a scientific explanation? Or did I make a measuring error?
    Thanks again…I’m really excited to cut the soap!

    • Well I’ve already unmolded and cut this soap and it seems to be just fine. ๐Ÿ™‚ I also checked the ph today with some strips and my reading was at 10. So I suppose my questions have worked themselves out. ๐Ÿ™‚

    • Hi Nicole!

      The 115F should be OK! To keep it a bit colder, you can put the container in an ice bath. It also helps to add the lye very slowly – about 1 spoonful at a time. Then, stir slowly until it’s fully combined. This post talks more about that: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/

      Also, some of the milk can get stuck to the sides of the ice cube tray, so you may have less than you initially weighed out. To be extra careful, you can weigh out .5-1 ounce extra. That will account for any loss. Glad to hear the soap turned out well! ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  12. Hi, I really love the idea of using carrot but I would like it to be vegan. Could I substitute the buttermilk for aloe vera juice? Or aloe vera powder 200:1 mixed with distilled water? Also, could I infuse the oils with some chamomile and calendula to make it even better for skin? -Thanks xx

  13. Hi

    I’d like to tell you that i learned so much from your website and that you are the ones that gave me the courage to begin with cold process soap making. Thank you so much for that, for all the information and the recipes that you are providing^^ Since i am only a beginner and still have looots to learn, could you please help me with this?
    Should the milk be measured by weight or by volume?
    Thank you so much again!! ^^

      • Thank you so much for your quick reply.
        I made this soap today ๐Ÿ˜€ It’s my first milk soap and everything went perfect! Although instead of buttermilk i have used coconut milk. I can’t wait to see the results\(^_^)/

        • I’m so glad your soaping session went perfectly! I think you’ll really love the way the bars feel. They’re so nice and creamy. ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  15. HI,

    I love your Lavender Chamomile Huggies Type FO and I am getting all possible information about baby soap ( and products) prior to getting pregnant.

    As of which age can this soap be used?

    Can I use the Lavender Chamomile Huggies Type FO and at which %, would you rather have me make chamomile infused oil combined with teh Lavender EO or make a mix with the same total amount of the EO in your recipe but with chamomile EO, Lavender EO with a hint of Oraneg and eucalyptus EO?

    Thank you

  16. Hi,

    Could I please ask if it would be okay to use breastmilk for this recipe?

    Thanks

  17. Hey there and thanks for posting this lovely recipe!

    I made this soap a few weeks ago but my scale only measures metric (used to do both but the imperial function broke a little while ago). I converted this recipe from imperial to metric with an online weight calculator and just wanted to double check that these measurements are indeed made in weight and not volume.

    The metric measurements I used were:
    765.5 grams olive oil
    142 grams coconut oil
    227 grams buttermilk
    71 grams carrot puree
    122 grams sodium hydroxide

    The batch did its normal soapy thing and is curing, though a bit softer than my usual recipes (probably to be expected with such a high olive oil content). I just wanted to do due diligence since it’s for a baby and all. Can you put my mind at ease that the measurements are by weight and my straight ounce to gram conversions are ok? I’m gifting this to some new parents and want to feel totally confident about it. Thank you! ๐Ÿ™‚

    • Hi Bridge!

      I double checked those measurements and they are spot on! This recipe will be a bit softer at first because of the olive oil and extra fat from the buttermilk, but will harden up as it cures. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • Hi Marianella!

      You can use buttermilk powder! I would recommend mixing that with the distilled water to rehydrate it and create the milk. We typically use about 1 ounce of powder per 8 ounces of water. Then, you can freeze it and add the lye like this video shows.

      You can also mix that powder with some distilled water and add it at trace. I would start with about 1 ounce of milk mixed into 1 ounce of water per pound. Make sure to subtract that from the main water amount so the soap doesn’t get too wet. That adds the creaminess without having to freeze the lye beforehand! You’ll still want to pop it in the fridge or freezer for 5-24 hours afterward to prevent any scorching. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Read more about working with milk here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  19. I want to use this recipe but using the hot process method, my question is how long is the cure time? My friends baby is allergic to milk, would using the buttermilk be harmful to her? or should I go with water?

  20. Could I use this recipe in hot process making? I’m a bit too impatient to wait on cold process. Thanks!

  21. Hey, I tried this recipe with little change in oils. I made it with 80% olive oil, 15% coconut oil & 5% castor. Everything is fine, but the soap melts a lot. What could be used as hardener other than sodium lactate. Also, I gave this soap to few of my friends who have kids and some of them complaint it hurts in baby’s eyes. Can anything be used to make it “tear free” for babies?

    Thanks!
    Kal

    • Hi Kal!

      Because this recipe does have a large amount of soft oils and extra fat from the milk, it is on the softer side. Because of that, it will shrink a bit faster than a harder bar. That is normal! That softness feels really great on the skin. ๐Ÿ™‚

      To make the bars a bit harder, you can add more hard oils to the soap! You can add palm oil up to 33%, or cocoa butter up to 15%. You can also add coconut oil up to 33%. However, because coconut oil is so cleansing, it can cause dryness, especially on sensitive baby skin. For this recipe, we recommend it around 20% or lower.

      Read more about Formulating Cold Process Recipes here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/formulating-cold-process-recipes/

      And more about common oils and what properties they add to soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/

      Also, all handmade soap will sting the eyes if it comes in contact with them. It may be helpful to include a warning label to keep the soap away from the eyes! We have not developed a tear-free recipe. Most of the tear free shampoo in the market contains ingredients we donโ€™t work with a lot, including Tetrasodium EDTA and Polyquaternium-10.

      If you like, you can use citric acid to lower the pH and make it even more gentle! Learn how to do so in the Sudsy Shampoo Bar Tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/sudsy-shampoo-bars/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Hi, I changed the recipe a bit and it really came out nicely ๐Ÿ™‚ Now I want to make a new batch and was wondering if I can add a bit of bentonite clay to this soap. Will it be appropriate in a baby soap?

        Thanks
        Kal

        • Hi Kal!

          I’m so happy to hear that! Bentonite clay gives soap a wonderful “slip,” and would be suitable for a baby soap. Another great option is colloidal oatmeal. Anne-Marie uses both ingredients in her Baby Oatmeal Cold Process Recipe, which is in her new book, Pure Soapmaking. I’ve included the kit below so you can take a look!

          https://www.brambleberry.com/Baby-Oatmeal-Cold-Process-Soap-Kit-Book-P6461.aspx

          I would recommend adding about 1-2 teaspoons of clay per pound of total soap. I also recommend dispersing the clay in distilled water at a rate of 1 tsp. clay to 1 Tbs. water. Clays tend to suck up moisture and cause the soap to crack. Dispersing the clay in water first helps avoid that. I hope this helps!

          -Amanda with Bramble Berry

          • Hey Amanda,

            Thanks for your detailed revert. Would surely try clay along with colloidal oatmeal in my next batch of baby soap. Apart from “slip”, does bentonite clay give any other benefit in baby soap?

            Thanks!
            Kal

          • You’re welcome Kal! The “slip,” is the most prominent benefit for the soap. Bentonite clay is often used in shaving soaps because the slip helps razors glide across the skin better. The other reason why it’s used in soap is for it’s oil absorbing properties. Because baby skin does not need to worry about oils, don’t use too much or it can be drying :).

            -Amanda with Bramble Berry

  22. Quick question: Can we use “cultured” buttermilk? I went to 2 grocery stores in my neighborhood, and could only find cultured buttermilk…… is the added bacteria going to affect this recipe or spoil the soap?

    Thank you!

    • Hi Janine!

      Absolutely! We used cultured buttermilk in our soap and it worked just fine. It makes the bars feel creamy and silky on the skin. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  23. I have been wanting to make this soap and bought the buttermilk. I have a 3.5 pound mold so if I want to add more oils/shea butter, I assume I need to run it through the lye calculator…correct?

    Also I purchased buttermilk which expired two days ago….would you suggest it use it within the 7 days after the expiration date or should I purchase a new one.

    Also I have a question regarding discounting liquid. For example, if the batter asks for 8 oz liquid; could I use 4 oz water and 4 oz milk? I apologize if that is an elementary question, but I have seen some soapers who add both water/lye in their recipes. Once the lye/water solution cools, they add a mixture of milk into their batch.

    Thanks in advance for your answers

    • Hi Dani!

      This soap will sting if it gets in the eyes, so be careful when using it! If it does come in contact with the eyes, flush with water and contact a doctor if necessary.

      All handmade soap will sting the eyes if it comes in contact with them. Most of the tear free shampoo in the market contains ingredients we don’t work with a lot, including Tetrasodium EDTA and Polyquaternium-10.

      I can tell you this soap contains gentle ingredients like olive oil and buttermilk that feel great on skin. If you like, you can use citric acid to lower the pH and make it even more gentle! Learn how to do so in the Sudsy Shampoo Bar Tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/sudsy-shampoo-bars/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  25. This is my first milk soap, and I can’t wait to try it out on my babes! I used coconut milk instead since I had it on hand, and squash (or pumpkin?) puree – they all look the same in the freezer – but I think the carrots would’ve provided a more concentrated colour. The video tips were great – the lye mixed in exactly as it was supposed too (a miracle when you haven’t seen it before). I used your ice bath method, and melted just the coconut oil, adding the olive once off the heat. I used the stick blender off/on for close to 10 minutes (I’d been concerned about the quick trace warning, but that definitely didn’t happen). When mixing, the temp was around 75 deg. I poured in silicone muffin tins and popped them in the freezer. I love your blog, and have learned a lot from it in the last few weeks. I only started soaping in September, but am hooked.

    • Hi Marilyn!

      Isn’t soaping so fun? It’s amazing how quickly you can get addicted to it! Also, it sounds like your soap turned out amazing. If you get pictures, we’d love to see it on our Facebook page. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Bramble Berry Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  26. i feel silly and just read through a few comments that answered a few of my questions lol is this soap superfat by 7%? i was thinking of doing this batch at 8%. any thoughts??

  27. im getting ready to do a very unique batch of baby bastille soap. I must ask first though, is it ok for me to stick this in the freezer for 24 hours after i pour in mold? i know the goats milk soap and other milk soaps i can but im not sure due to the olive oil content if i can. also, what is the superfat for this so i can run it through the lye calculator? I want to make sure its perfect as my ounces slightly differ etc… thanks!! love this site!

  28. I am totally new to soaping and wanted to know how much soap will this recipe make. Not sure if I missed it as it says to use the 10″ silicone mold. I just purchased the 2 lb mold.

    Can I use the recipe as it is or would I have to run the ingredients through the calculator.

    Any assistance would be helpful

    Thanks

    • Hi Michelle!

      This mold holds 50 ounces, or about 3 pounds of soap. That’s how much this recipe makes. You can find those amounts at the very top of the post below the title and above the first picture. ๐Ÿ™‚

      This recipe would make a bit too much for a 2 pound mold, so I would recommend resizing it. To resize the recipe, you can use our Lye Calculator! I would recommend plugging the recipe as is into the calculator. With a 5% superfat, it has 46.8 ounces. For a 2 pound mold, you’ll want 32 ounces.

      Under the section titled “Current Batch,” there is a resize button. There you can guess lower oil weights until you get the right amount. For 2 pounds, the oils will weigh about 22 ounces.

      This recipe has a 25% liquid discount. That accounts for the extra water in the carrots. Also, the recipe has a lot of olive oil and buttermilk, which makes it softer. A liquid discount will help the soap harden and cure faster. You can use the amount of liquid suggested on the calculator, or add that 25% discount.

      Lye Calculator: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/using-the-bramble-berry-lye-calculator-2/

      Hope that helps! If you have any other questions, let me know. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      10″ Silicone Loaf Mold: https://www.brambleberry.com/10-Silicone-Loaf-Mold–P5199.aspx

      2 lb. Wood Loaf Mold: https://www.brambleberry.com/2-lb-Wood-Loaf-Mold-P5239.aspx

  29. I was wondering if I could Grate and melt my first batch of soap made on 8/21 and use a mold for the shape instead of the uneven cut bars I have now?

  30. has anyone made this soap without fragrance oil? If so how does it smell? My niece has really sensitive skin and can’t use scented soaps and I am trying to make something new for her.

    • Hi Riley!

      While we haven’t tried this recipe without a fragrance, my guess is that it would have a fairly neutral smell. Milk soaps do have a bit of a natural odor, but this scent tends to fade dramatically as it cures. To help keep the scent as neutral as possible, be sure to keep the temperature of your milk nice and cool. Scorched milk in cold process soap can give the soap an unpleasant odor. I hop this helps!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

    • I make this soap without fragrance for my 6 month old. It doesn’t really smell at all and it’s perfect for her sensitive skin. I’d definitely recommend it!

    • Hi Pam!

      The sky’s the limit when adding liquid to your soap! You can use any milk you like, including goat milk, cow milk, coconut milk or almond milk. Whichever one you choose, we recommend following the same steps. That includes freezing the milk before adding your lye, and popping the mold in the fridge or freezer for 5-24 hours when it’s in the mold. Read more about working with milk here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/

      You can also use distilled water. In that case, you can have it at room temperature before adding the lye. I would recommend still popping it in the fridge or freezer, as the natural sugars in the carrot puree can overheat the soap. Keeping it in a cool place will prevent that. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • Hi Tammie!

      You can, but it may be a bit tricky with the milk! When milk gets hot, it can scorch. That can cause discoloration and give the soap an unpleasant ammonia smell. Because hot process is at a high temperature for awhile, the milk will scorch. If you don’t mind discoloration, that’s totally fine! Also, the ammonia smell should go away as the soap cures.

      If not, you can use distilled water in place of the buttermilk in this recipe. Or, you can add a bit of buttermilk (1-4 ounces) toward the end of the cooking process to help lessen the chance of scorching. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  33. Well, I tried this soap again this morning. I did a few things different. I purchased a digital scale for one thing. I kept the temperature down under 100 during the whole process. I kept the soap in an ice bath until trace. I used the stick blender sparingly and was happy so far with the results. I kept the fragrance out and still used the whole jar of just carrots and water baby food. I poured it at a light trace and put it in the freezer which is where it is at now until tomorrow morning. I’m hopeful that this soap will turn out. I hope it keeps it’s creamy light orange color after it comes out of the freezer and sits in the mold for about a week. I smells wonderful when I poured it, no ammonia at all. Thanks for your help and tips. I watched a few more of your tutorials and they were very helpful.

  34. I tried making this soap. Everything looked perfect until I poured it into the mold. I was just finishing the pretty design on top and it suddenly turned back to a globby, oily mess. I poured it back into my bowl and tried to stick blend it back to creamy. That didn’t work, it now looks like hot process soap. Do I need to keep the mixture on ice throughout the saponification process? I used a heavy cardboard, plastic lined box for my mold. I followed the video and it looked great and would like to try it again, but am fear the same result. Any help would be appreciated.

    • Hi Paula!

      Hmm, that’s strange! I’m wondering if it may be separation. That can happen due to heat, or a tricky fragrance oil. You can read more about separation here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-behaving-badly/

      Can you tell me a bit more about your process, including your temperatures, how long you stick blended for and the fragrance you used? Also, the batch now, is it leaking oil at all? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • I did not have any trouble with the frozen buttermilk, I took about 30 minutes to add and dissolve the lye. It didn’t turn colors at all. The oil and milk/lye temps were 100 each. I used virgin olive oil so my trace time took about 30 minutes with stick blender. I did not use fragrance oil but I did use a 4oz jar of baby food carrots added at light trace. I stick blended for about 5 minutes longer to get it to pudding stage. Everything looked perfect. I was so excited. I had a heavy cardboard plastic lines box for the mold. It poured fine and I was really getting into making the design on top. I was just about to finish and I noticed oil coming up through the top. It then suddenly turned back to oil and mush. It was hot and smelled of ammonia. I poured it back into my mixing bowl and threw away the box and tried to stick blend it back together. It came together alittle but looked more like hot process. After 24 hours it has harden some but there is still oil coming through around the outside edges. the ammonia smell has dissipated some.

        • Thanks so much for all those helpful details Paula! It sounds like you did everything just right. As the milk naturally heats up, it will have sort of an ammonia smell. That goes away as the soap continues to cure.

          I’m wondering if it may be the baby food. We used baby food with carrots and water. If there was something else in there, like an additive, it may do weird things in the soap. Do you know what was in the baby food you used?

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  35. Since this recipe has a water discount to make up for the moisture in the carrots, how much water or buttermilk should i add if i do not want to use carrots?

    • Hi Stephanie!

      This recipe is discounted at 25% to account for several factors. That includes the extra water from the carrots, but it also helps the soap harden faster. The recipe has a lot of soft oils and extra fat from the buttermilk. That means it can take longer to harden without the discount.

      If you leave out the carrots, you can keep the discount the same to account for the softness of the oils and milk. Or, you can decrease that discount to 10-15%. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Just had 2 babies born to two friends of mine. Anxious to make a baby soap. I ran this recipe through the Soap Calc Pro and it received a balance score of 110.6. The only redeeming quality of this soap was creaminess. Is that possible? Why would I want to make it?

  36. I’m only finding 2% reduced fat buttermilk in the stores. Will that work? Should I keep looking for full fat?

    • Hi Marlene!

      That should work just fine! Any type of buttermilk will do. It will make this soap feel nice and creamy. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  37. Hi, I have a couple of questions.
    Just wondering if this recipe makes a hard bar. when I ran the recipe through the lye calculator I noticed that it looks like its not going to be a hard bar. Is that the case? do I just have to let it cure longer to get a hard bar?
    What would you say is the min hardness (In soap quality) ? as well as the cleansing in a baby soap that’s safe?
    I’ve been really excited to make a baby soap for my little one but I’m trying to achieve the right soap qualities before I make it.

    Thanks!

    • Hi Grace!

      This recipe is on the softer side. It has mostly olive oil, which is a soft oil, and also has extra fat from the milk.

      However, it also has coconut oil. Coconut oil contributes to the firmness of the bar and adds great cleansing properties. In addition, the recipe has a water discount and sodium lactate, which will help it firm up more quickly. That also means a normal 4-6 week cure will be enough for the soap. We think it’s the perfect soap for babies and children. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Read more about sodium lactate in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-sodium-lactate/

      Coconut oil is so cleansing, it can actually be drying or irritating if used at more than 30% in your recipe. That percentage may be even lower with babies. I would recommend staying around 15% just to be on the safe side. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Learn more in the Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Common Soapmaking Oils: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Thank You Kelsey!
        I’m trying not too add too much to it. Can I let it cure for a little longer to help firm it up instead? Or mayb I can add a little Palm oil. Would that be too rough for a baby/ sensitive skin?

        Thanks for the info on coconut oil. I was also referring to the soap qualities (12-22) for cleansing. Like is there a max number thats safe for a baby soap? Sorry hope I’m making sense.

        • Hi Grace!

          You can definitely let it cure longer if you like! You can also add palm oil, which makes that bar nice and firm. If you like, you can add that up to 30%. You can also do a coconut oil/palm oil combination. ๐Ÿ™‚

          As for the soap qualities, I’m not entirely sure! We don’t use INS Numbers for Soapmaking, so it’s not something I’m familiar with. This post has more information on that though: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/ins-numbers-for-soapmaking/

          The great news is, soap itself will be cleansing! No matter what oils you use, soap is designed to clean the skin. Oils like coconut and castor can bump the cleansing properties up a bit, but even without them the soap will clean. ๐Ÿ™‚

          I think a small test batch would be helpful. You can try out several coconut/olive/palm combinations and see which one baby likes best!

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

          • Thanks Kelsey,
            I also noticed from some other comments that this recipe uses 1:2.2 ratio lye to water.
            Is that the max i can discount. For normals soaps i usually use more water anyways. and my soaps are ready to cut after about 1 1/2 – 2 days

            Would it make a difference if I used 1: 2 ratio ?? just to make it easier to calculate?

          • Hi Grace!

            You can definitely use a 1:2 ratio if you like! Keep in mind the more water (or milk) is discounted, the faster the soap will trace. This recipe is fairly simple, so that should be just fine. Just be prepared to move a little quicker, just in case. ๐Ÿ™‚

            -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

          • You were right! it moved really quickly!! i did ratio 1:1 water n lye and added the milk a lil later. but it seized up real quickly. the mixture was really hot. hotter than usual too.
            It cooled/ hardened quickly so I had to plop in into the mold, and it was almost play dough consistency.
            I cried lol ๐Ÿ™ Do you think it is lye heavy?? that is my biggest concern. Whats the most effective and cost efficient way to check if it is.

            I usually do the red cabbage test, but i noticed in one of your posts, they said if its green on yellow then its lye heavy. All my soaps turneed blue so thats good, but on the strip. yellow and green show the acidity not the alkali? which is the naoh (Looked like thats supposed to be dark blue) Pls help!

          • Just checked a lil of the soap and it turned green and a lil yellow! Also i use lavender eo! this is a nightmare! if this has not changed in a fdew days… is there anything i can do to salvage this?

          • Hi Grace!

            An economical way to check for lye heaviness is the “zap” test. To do so, tap the soap lightly on your tongue. If it “zaps” you, it means it’s lye heavy. However, I would recommend waiting at least 5 days before testing the soap. During the first 2 days, the recipe is still turning into soap, so it will have a pH level of 11-14. After a couple of days, it should drop to 9-10.

            If that soap is lye heavy, you can still use it! It makes great laundry soap. ๐Ÿ™‚

            Three DIY Laundry Soap Recipes: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/home-crafts/three-diy-laundry-soap-recipes/

            -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  38. Hello Kelsey,

    I have a question regarding the carrot puree (sorry if it was already asked, so much posts…) sometimes, I use lemon zest, Aloe vera juice and more fresh products, so I was wondering does it influence the shelf life of the soap? Idem for milk, does it mean these soaps have to be used very quickly?

    Thank you

  39. I’m a newbie soaper, and decided to give this one a go. This is my first milk soap, but not my first CP soap. I followed the instructions to a tee. I mixed the lye milk as instructed, and stirred like crazy even after it was all incorporated. The mixture stayed below 88 degrees, but I noticed it was grainy, as if slightly curdled. Is this normal? Also, I accidentally whipped some air bubbles into the soap. I know that they aren’t the prettiest thing to have in a soap, but do they cause any problems beyond esthetics? Thanks in advance. This site has been such a remarkable resource in my soaping journey.

    • Hi Michelle!

      I am so glad to hear this blog has been helpful for you! That really means a lot to us, thank you. ๐Ÿ™‚

      As you add the lye to the milk, some of the fat proteins in the milk will react with the lye. That can cause it to thicken or look a bit grainy. Don’t worry though, that’s normal and your soap will be just fine!

      Also, air bubbles don’t affect the final bar, it’s just an aesthetic thing and your soap will still feel amazing on your skin. To help prevent them, pour the lye milk slowly down the shaft of your stick blender. Then, tap the stick blender on the bottom of your bowl to release any air before blending. Finally, make sure to tap your mold on the counter several times to release air bubbles. That should help. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  40. Greetings! Thank you for this lovely recipe! I’m wondering about the amount of puree in this soap. I’m considering making this but scaling it down to make just a few bars. I can run the oils through the lye calculator, no problem, but what is the ratio of puree to everything else here? I’m counting 45.8 oz of other things, so with 2.5 oz of puree, would it be approximately .05% of batch = puree? So if I were to scale everything else down to say, 24 oz, it’d be about 1 oz of puree?

    • Hi Michele!

      You’re welcome, glad you like the recipe! Also, that amount sounds just right! I would recommend adding 1 ounce of puree. Then, mix in well. If you want a brighter orangey yellow color, you can add a bit more puree. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  41. I just made this recipe and it smells fantastic! Almost like a baby that just had lunch. ๐Ÿ™‚ I do not plan to sell it as my own, but instead give it to my sisters and friends for their small children. It’s perfect. Thank you for sharing.

    • So glad you’re loving the soap Manda! I love the lavender smell. Also, what an awesome handmade gift for your family and friends! ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • I will love to do this recipe but in oven process, I had read if you do it with milk will smell some days, how much will be the right proportion of water to replace the milk?. I had looked in the blog all over but I couldn’t find any answer, either in teachsoap.
      I just love the simplicity of this recipe. It will be great for my extra sensitive skin. Thanks a lot

  42. In the video Anne Marie says to use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of finished soap but the Sunday Night Spotlight: Sodium Lactate says 1 teaspoon per pound of oils. Which is best ? Does it depend on the recipe?

  43. I have made this recipe once, without the fragrance oil, and it came out beautifully. I want to make it again, with FO, but without the carrot puree color. Would I need to sub an equal amount of buttermilk for the carrot puree, or just skip the puree? Thanks so much for all these great recipes! I have so much fun.

  44. I made this last night and it came out beautiful. I put it in the freezer uncovered because it was really hot in my house. I took it out after four hours and a layer of condensation formed on top. When I looked at it this morning, it’s covered in soda ash. I’m going to get a steamer to see if that works. Should I have not put it in the freezer?

    • Or maybe I was soaping at too low of a temperature? My milk/lye was at 69 degrees and my oils were around 100 degrees. I didn’t want the milk to scorch. Also, I only had 70% alcohol to stray on the top when I was done.

  45. Hi Kelsey,

    I love this soap, so I decided to do it this weekend. Unfortunately I made some mistakes and I would like to know what will cause my mistakes in final product.
    First because I am not native English speaker and was lazy to translate buttermilk I thought that it is cream. So I used cream with 30% fat (just now found out that I made mistake)
    I use soap calc and it gives me always different weights and I wanted to do half a batch from yours, so my recipe was:

    olive oil 452,24 g 83,3%
    coconout oil 85g 16,7%
    NaOH 101g
    cream 30% 261g
    carrot pyre 84g
    and here is my second mistake, I was calculating the percentage of buttermilk and pyre used in your recipe and forget that I am doing half a batch, so I used all this amount of pyre and cream.

    I used the pyre to the mixture with lye, not in the trace.

    The soap solidified well, it is already out from the mold and looks great. I am just worried what will be the effect from too much cream (with 30% fat) and too much pyre.
    Thank you very much, Monika

    PS: I already did some soaps and never so many mistakes:)

    • Hi Monika!

      I ran your recipe through our Lye Calculator to check, and I am getting some different amounts. Here is what I got:

      Coconut Oil (76 Degrees) 8500.00g 15.82%
      Olive Oil (Pomace) 45224.00g 84.18%
      5% Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) Amount 7194.365g
      Grams of liquid recommended 17728.92g
      Yields 78647.29g

      I was wondering if you used 10,100 grams of lye? If so, that soap may be lye heavy. To check for lye heaviness, you can use pH strips. You can also use cabbage juice! Read more in this blog post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/test-ph-red-cabbage/

      Also, you can add the carrot puree in the lye mixture if you like. That shouldn’t affect the final soap at all!

      Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

    • Hi Kelsey

      I am looking at your calculation, some mistake happened, the amounts in grams, you wrote are incredible big..

      so once more I used:
      olive oil 14,99oz
      coconout oil 3oz
      cream (30%fat) 9,2oz
      pyre 2,96oz
      lye 3,6oz (I dont know how I calculated this amount, now I am getting different amount)

      so my mistake is that I used too much cream and pyre (like you used)but I wanted to make half a batch, so I used only half of oils.
      I measured the pH of soap and it is 10, but made the soap only on friday.

      Thank you for help, Monika

      • Hi Kelsey, I just found out how I calculated the lye amount, I used in soapcalc 9.2oz milk fat in oil list and it gives me with 14.99oz olive oil and 3oz coconout oil, NaOH amount 3,8oz.

        Is the soap usable, just need time? What will the bigger amount of cream and pyre cause?

        Thank you very much, have a nice day

        • Hi Monika!

          Thanks so much for clarifying, and sorry for the confusion! That’s great that your soap has a normal pH level of 10. That means it’s not lye heavy.

          The soap is definitely still usable, it will just be softer than usual. I would recommend letting it cure for 4-6 weeks. That will allow any excess liquid to evaporate, making your bars a little firmer. ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  46. When using food additives like carrot puree, pumpkin puree or avocado, does this mean the bar will have a shorter shelf life? Will it turn bad after some time?

    • Hi Chelsea!

      When you use food additives in cold process soap, they go through the saponification, or soapmaking process. They’re turned into soap, and aren’t raw food anymore. That means they now have a soap pH level (9-11) and won’t turn bad. Depending on the oils you use, your bars should have a shelf life of about a year or so. Read more about oil shelf lives in the Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Common Soapmaking Oils: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/

      However, food additives can turn brown or fade in your soap over time. The great thing about carrot puree is it stays that gorgeous yellow color for quite awhile. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  47. hi can i use olive oil instead of olive oil pomace for this recipe… Looking forward to hear from you soon. Thank you

  48. Hello again !!

    I’m almost ready to try this recipe. I ordered buttermilk powder since I couldn’t get fresh buttermilk. I’m going to follow the 100% water + powder method that comes in your Milk Soap e-Book.

    So I’m running everything by the lye calculator again and I see there is a difference in the distilled water that comes in your recipe and the one in the calc. I’m guessing this is because the carrot puree counts as part of the liquids?

    If this is right, then my recipe would go as follows:

    Pomace Olive Oil – 27oz
    Coconut Oil (76 Degrees) – 5oz
    5% Lye – 4.283oz
    Distilled Water – 5.948oz
    Carrot Puree (strained?) – 2.5oz
    Milk Slurry – Distilled Water 2.112oz + 1.405oz buttermilk powder
    Total Ounces of liquid (not counting the powder) – 10.56oz

    I appreciate your observations : ) Thanks in advance !!

    • Hi Rosy!

      That is correct! This soap has a water discount to account for the extra water in the carrot puree (which isn’t strained before adding to the soap). It also helps the soap release faster from the mold, as milk soap tends to be softer. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Also, your recipe looks great! I ran it through our Lye Calculator and got the same amounts you did. You’re ready to soap!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  49. Hi I made this recipe and I loved how easy it was to. I have just cut my soap today and it looks beautiful inside! I am quite new to soap making and so far I have followed a number of recipes, but I am keen to have a go at making a recipe for baby soap from scratch. I was wonder if you could give me a bit of advice on my recipe to use in your 10″ silicone mould. I have had a go at using the same oil total and liquid weights as the Bastille Soap (hopefully it makes sense as I work in metric usually), but realise it needs to go through the Lye Calculator. I was thinking Olive Oil 22.4 Ounces (70%), Coconut Oil 4.8 Oz (15%), Sweet Almond Oil 3.2 Ounces (10%) and Shea Butter (5%). I would like to use Goats milk for the liquid component at 10.5 ounces and superfat at 6%. Does this combination sounds ok to you? Would this bar be to soft and would I need to cure roughly the same length of time as the Bastille bar? I want it to be gentle but still firm enough that it doesn’t fall apart :). Thank you so much.

    • Hi Mandy!

      That sounds like an awesome combination! The combination of olive oil and sweet almond oil would make the soap feel soft and luxurious. The shea butter would add some firmness and moisturizing properties, and the coconut oil would add some cleansing properties.

      Also, milk soap feels nice and soft. In all, your bar would be soft and very gentle on baby’s skin. Because of all the soft oils and added fat from the milk, it may take a bit longer to cure. The soap would be ready to use after 4-6 weeks, but may be a bit more firm to the touch and last longer if it cures for 2 months or so. ๐Ÿ™‚

      This How to Add Lye to Milk for Cold Process Soap post may be helpful for you: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/

      Adding sodium lactate will help the soap pop out of the mold faster and be a little bit more firm! You can add 1 tsp. of sodium lactate per pound of oils to your cooled lye water. Read more in the Sunday Night Spotlight: Sodium Lactate: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-sodium-lactate/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Thanks so much Kelsey. The help you guys provide is so fantastic and greatly appreciated by someone quite new to soaping. Mandy

  50. Since Kefir and Buttermilk are not the same because Kefir is a fermented beverage, I was wondering if I could make Homemade Buttermilk. There are some recipes out there where they simply add 1 tbsp of lemon juice to 1cup of milk and let it stand for a few minutes to produce buttermilk. Has anyone tried this?

    • Hi Rosy!

      We haven’t tried that method, but I believe it would work just fine! I would recommend making a small test batch to see how the homemade buttermilk works. Also, freezing it beforehand will help prevent scorching. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  51. Can I replace the 8oz of buttermilk with 8oz coconut milk Without changing the rest of the recipe?

  52. Hi! Can you help me please? Can I make this soap without the buttermilk and carrots? I ran this recipe through the Lye Calculator and this is what I got-22 ounces of olive oil, 5 ounces of coconut oil, 5 ounces of rice bran oil, 4.259 ounces of lye, and 10.56 ounces of liquid (distilled water). For the liquid I would like to use aloe vera liquid. I will also add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Should I do a water discount, and how much water to discount (how many ounces)? Thank you, I appreciate your help very much!!

  53. Hello,

    I’m planning to use normal olive oil instead of pomace, so I assume I need to recalculate the lye needed for this recipe? I just couldn’t find the superfat % used anywhere. Please help, thank you.

  54. Thanks so much, Anne-Marie! Loving your milk soap series! Wonder if you could comment on the different qualities that different milks impart in cold process (especially buttermilk vs. cow’s milk vs. goat’s milk vs. coconut milk) or recommend a book with this info. Would be even better to actually see in a video how these different soap lather. I can’t seem to find this info. anywhere on the web. Would greatly appreciate!

  55. I’m wondering if you can give me some advice on the best way to add beeswax to a milk soap. Beeswax has a higher melting point, but I’d like to keep the temperatures lower for the milk. My thought so far is to melt the beeswax separately from the other oils and add it after I’ve already mixed the other oils and milk/lye mixture. Will that work or should I add it when I first add the lye to the other oils? I just don’t want to end up with beeswax bits in the soap.
    Thanks for your help.
    Jami

    • Hi Jami!

      It can be tricky to mix beeswax into a milk soap. Typically, when making soap with beeswax, you need to soap at temperatures of around 170F. My worry is that even if you melt the beeswax separately, it may harden as soon as it’s added at trace. This is because the temperature of your milk and oils will be lower than usual.

      Do you mind if I ask why you’re adding the beeswax? If you’re looking for a firmer bar of soap, oils like palm and coconut can add that firmness, and have a lower melting point. They work great in milk soaps. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Common Soapmaking Oils: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/

      Sodium lactate is another great way to add firmness to your bars. You can add 1 tsp. of sodium lactate per pound of oils to your cooled lye water. Read more in the Sunday Night Spotlight: Sodium Lactate: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-sodium-lactate/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      Busy Beeswax Soap Tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/beeswax-spoon-plop/

      • Thanks for your reply Kelsey.

        I guess my main reason for wanting to add beeswax is a harder bar of soap. I made this recipe http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/valentine-cold-process-soap-2/ a few months ago using the exact recipe for the cut out heart and the lots of lather recipe for the pink and white layers. I really liked how the soap did not “melt” or seem to get soft at all when used multiple times a day by my children who like to get the soap very wet!

        As I’m typing this up, I reviewed my recipe and I did add sodium lactate. I forgot I added that and was attributing the extra hardness to the beeswax, but most likely it was the sodium lactate. That is much easier to add than beeswax to a milk soap and I will definitely do that instead.

        Thanks!

        • Hi Jami!

          You’re welcome! Beeswax definitely makes a nice hard bar of soap with a little bit of shine to it. Sodium lactate helps with hardness as well, and you won’t have to worry about it solidifying as you soap! ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  56. I made my first goats milk soap yesterday. I think it came out great. I’m interested in your opinion of my recipe.
    I used 11 oz Olive Oil, 9 oz Coconut Oil, 9 oz Palm oil, 4 oz Avocado Oil, 4.6 oz lye (6% super fat) and 10 oz of goats milk.
    Does that sound good to you?
    I did it the way you showed with frozen cubes and very slowly stirring the lye in. The temp. got to 75 and then started dropping to 70 again. It was in a bowl filled with ice the whole time. At that time I mixed it with oils which were at 99 degrees. It worked great, no darkening of milk at all. My design was that I left 1/2 plain, and in the other half added your OMH FO and ground oatmeal, and then layered them 4 times with cocoa powder pencil line in between them. Topped with whole oatmeal flakes. I put it in the fridge for about 4 hours, and it was already set. I unmolded today after 17 hours and it came out great out of your 10 in silicone mold.

  57. Great looking recipe! This will be my first milk recipe and I’m excited, as others are! That’s a lot of olive oil in there… and that can add up cost-wise. I know that canola oil is a possible substitute for olive oil, but does it change the properties of the soap much (from olive pomace to canola) in a bastille (or castile) soap like this? I was thinking of maybe splitting up the olive oil content to be half olive and half canola. Any recommendations of how much of the olive oil you could substitute with canola oil without compromising the properties of the soap bar? I think you’re going to say theoretically you can replace up to 100% of the olive with canola, but I wonder in reality does it just make a noticeably nicer bar of soap if I use mostly/all olive oil and no canola? Thanks in advance!

  58. Hello again,
    could you please point me to a recipe for CP soap that uses salt as an exfoliant additive?
    thank you !!

    • Salt soap is so very easy. All you do is a 100% coconut oil soap, superfatted to 20%, add the salt of your choice, up to the amount of oils you use. For example, if you made a soap using 3.5# coconut oil, you could add up to 3.5# of salt. When I make it, I use 1# unrefined salt in a recipe that size and I’m very happy with it. Just be sure to use a silicon mold and don’t wait too long to pour. They set up within an hour and they’ll be impossible to cut.

      • Thank you Kirsten !! Can I touch the soap after one hour when it sets ups or do I still need to wear gloves?

  59. Hi there!

    I got a lot of help from your video so thank you in advance! I do not have an immersion blender, so how do I prevent bubbles when using the “standing” blender? To prevent soda ash, should I put plastic wrap on top before popping it into the freezer? Thanks.

    Karen

    • Hi Karen!

      To prevent bubbles using a stand mixer, you can pour the lye slowly down the side of the bowl. Also, it helps to tap the mold firmly on the counter several times after your soap is poured in.

      Keep in mind a stand mixer will whip extra air into your soap, giving it a more fluffy, frosting-like texture. It also can take up to 45 minutes to an hour to fully emulsify.

      We love using stick blenders. They emulsify your soap in just a couple minutes, and no extra air gets whipped in. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Perfect Pink Stick Blender: https://www.brambleberry.com/Perfect-Pink-Stick-Blender-P5245.aspx

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  60. Thanks for giving this soap some new attention! I’m here to testify. ๐Ÿ™‚ I’ve made this soap several times after the first time I saw the original post. However, I let it cure for several extra months; one batch cured 10 months before I tried using it. In my opinion, it needs a long cure, just like castile. This way, it produces a very creamy lather with fine bubbles. People love it.
    I’ve used both carrot baby food and homemade cooked carrot puree. With the homemade puree, I strained out some of the water with a nut-milk bag. (Cheese cloth would also work.) Both types of carrot worked equally well.
    When making baby soap, I like to use molds or cut bar sizes that are easy to hold. Parents and other baby washers appreciate it!

    • Hi Cid!

      With all the soft oils in this recipe and the added fat from the buttermilk, it can take a little bit longer to cure so it reaches its full potential!

      Also, thanks so much for your expert advice! That will really help people who want to make their own puree. So glad you like the soap! ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Hi Kelsey,
        I made this baby soap today and I mistakenly added the carrot puree at trace, with the Lavender E.O.

        The soap seems to have turned out great, I mixed to a thin trace, added carrot and Lavender, then mixed to thick pudding like trace.

        The soap set up nicely, I didn’t insulate it but it stayed warm all day.
        Looks like it’s going to be a great recipe!

        I wondered what the benefit of the buttermilk is.
        Thanks,
        Jody Meier

        • Hi Jody!

          Adding that carrot puree at thin trace is just fine! Either way, it will get mixed in nicely with the soap batter. ๐Ÿ™‚

          So glad to hear that soap turned out great for you! Also, buttermilk adds a creamy, silky feeling to the soap. It feels awesome on skin!

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  62. Have you ever used kefir in soap? I was thinking about trying this recipe using my goat’s milk kefir in place of the buttermilk.
    And adding some carrot extract oil too! How much would you recommendusing with this recipe?

    • I also want to use kefir instead of buttermilk in this recipe (our local stores don’t carry buttermilk) !! Can this be done?

    • Hi Terrie and Rosy!

      We haven’t used kefir in soap, so I’m not entirely sure! I know kefir is fermented, so that may affect the soap. I would recommend using the same freezing method for the kefir, then adding the lye slowly.

      Also, the kefir is a little thick, so it may help to do a mix of distilled water and kefir. Again, a small test batch would really help!

      As for carrot extract, that is considered an additive. We recommend adding 1 tsp. per pound of soap. ๐Ÿ™‚

      Sunday Night Spotlight: Extracts: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotligh-extracts/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  63. I love your videos! Amanda is the person who’s blog helped me the most when I was starting out with soaping. She is so clear and informative! Thanks so much for posting this ๐Ÿ™‚

    • So glad you love the videos! Also, Amanda is such an inspiration for us. We love this recipe. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  64. I’ve made this soap twice now and have had a hard time reaching trace. The first time, I burnt the motor out of my hand blender after 30 min of mixing. I wasn’t sure the soap was even at trace when the blender broke.

    The second go round I hit a very very very light trace after 25 minutes of mixing (with a new blender). I’m wondering what you think might be the reason for the slow trace.

    I used slushy frozen milk in an ice bath. I used extra virgin olive oil from the grocery store, 76 melt point coconut oil. The buttermilk I used was a 1.5% fat. Any ideas? The soaps have turned out super well but I’m hoping to reach a thicker trace so I can give more texture to the tops.

    Or if this keeps being a slow to trace recipe for me then I can use it to my advantage and do some swirls or something.

    • Hi Amy!

      Because this recipe is mostly soft oils, it will take a lot longer to hit trace. For us, it took several minutes of stick blending and mixing with the stick blender. Using a stick blender will help speed that process up immensely! ๐Ÿ™‚

      Perfect Pink Stick Blender: https://www.brambleberry.com/Perfect-Pink-Stick-Blender-P5245.aspx

      You can also add more coconut oil, or another firm oil like palm oil. That will make the recipe firmer, meaning it will trace faster. You can use coconut or palm oil in your recipe up to 30%. If you do increase those oils, make sure to run it through the Lye Calculator again!

      Formulating Cold Process Recipes: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/formulating-cold-process-recipes/

      Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx

      Also, you can absolutely do some swirls if you like! That way you can take advantage of that slow trace time. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Thanks for the response, Kelsey.

        I am using a stick blender and burnt the motor out on the first batch I made because it came to trace so slowly — 30 minutes of stick blending was too much for the motor. It took 25 minutes with a brand new stick blender the second time I made it.

        Do you think using a 1.5% fat buttermilk versus a full fat buttermilk would make any difference in the time it takes to trace?

        • Hi Amy!

          Hmm, that’s strange! We used full fat buttermilk and it started to incorporate in just a couple minutes or so. What temperatures are you soaping at? Thanks for answering all my questions! ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  65. This recipe comes to me just on time, I was searching for one of baby soap. It will be my first milk CP soap. Your video is so easy to follow and makes me feel more confident to ytry it. Two questions come to my mind, please, do I need to put the mold in the freezer right after pooring it? uncovered?
    Thank you so much in advance, your answers will help me a lot!

    • Hi Patricia!

      That’s awesome, perfect timing! So glad you like the video. ๐Ÿ™‚

      If the milk in the soap gets too hot, it can scorch. To prevent this, you can leave it at room temperature uncovered. However, if you’re soaping in a warm area, I would recommend popping it in the freezer for four hours or up to overnight. That way it stays nice and cool!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Well I have only very good things to say. First, I thank you for this great recipe, my soap came out beautiful, I did not used sodium lactate though, and when I tried to used my soap seal the soap got stacked on it so, I decided not to print it. I already used one on myself, wow, I adore the texture, the smell and the feeling on my skin!
        Thank you so much!

        • So glad you’re loving the recipe Patricia! I do too, it feels so nice on the skin. ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  66. What was the temperature of the milk/lye solution in this recipe? I’m asking because the oils were at 120, and I understand that the temperatures should be ideally the same or 10 degrees of difference between them.

    • Hi Rosy!

      The milk in this recipe was about 70F. Typically, we recommend having the lye and oils within 10 degrees of each other. However, the milk needs to stay cool so it won’t scorch. ๐Ÿ™‚

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Will Fatfree buttermilk make a difference?
        Should this have been stored in freezer or refrigerator for curing vs Insulated?

        • Hi Joanne!

          We didn’t try this recipe with fat free buttermilk, but I believe it would work just fine! A small test batch would be really helpful though.

          We recommend putting this soap uncovered in a fridge or freezer after it’s in the mold. That way, that milk won’t get too hot and scorch. You can leave it in there for four hours or up to overnight, then remove it and let it sit at room temperature for a couple days before cutting. ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  67. Would this work if you made your own carrot puree? Or would you suggest buying the store bought version?
    Thanks Amanda

    • Hi Amanda!

      Baby food works great, that’s actually what we used in this recipe! When selecting the puree, just make sure the only ingredients are carrots and water ๐Ÿ™‚ I hope you give this recipe a try!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

      • Thanks Amanda! I actually can’t find a plain carrot/water baby food where I live in Australia. Would making my own carrot puree be an okay substitution or would it affect the water content of the soap? Thanks so much for your help

        • Hi Amanda!

          You can definitely make your own if you like! I would recommend adding just enough water to help it combine. It would also help to make a small test batch. That way you can see how the homemade puree works in your soap. ๐Ÿ™‚

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  68. Hi, a few questions-
    1. How old is your soap in the pictures? Because the color looks nice there.
    2. Did you put your soap in the fridge or freezer at all?
    3. Can you just use your own cooked carrots or even fresh carrot purรฉe? Or do you always use jarred baby food?
    4. Would it be good to add something like Oat Extract to it?
    5. Did you get ash on it? Did you do anything to make the top look so nice and shiny, without ash? Like steam it?
    Thanks! ๐Ÿ™‚

    • Hi Martina!

      The soap in our pictures are about 2 months old. We did not put our soap in the freezer, but you certainly can if you would like to. I would recommend doing so if you live in an extremely hot climate. You can use a handmade carrot puree, or baby food from the store. In our recipe, we used store bought baby food. Just make sure that when selecting the baby food, or making the puree at home, the only ingredients are water and carrots. You could certainly add an extract to this recipe if you’d like. I would recommend adding 1/2 tsp. per pound of extract at trace. We did not get a large amount of soda ash, but we steamed it to get the top nice and shiny ๐Ÿ™‚ I hope this helps!

      -Amanda with Bramble Berry

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