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Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process

Filed Under: Cold Process Soap

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1 hour
Yields: About 3 lbs. of soap

There is something about the color yellow that just screams, “happy!” If you are looking for a project full of cheer, this Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process Tutorial is the soap for you. Scented with the bright Lemon Verbena Yankee Type and the bubbly Champagne Fragrance Oil, it smells as sunny as it looks.

Poppy seeds give this bar of soap gentle exfoliation, and the contrasting mica vein really makes the layers pop. Tip: when cutting into cold process soap that features a mica vein, don’t cut the soap from the top down. Lay the soap on its side and cut in the direction of the line. This will prevent the mica from dragging through the layers.

What You’ll Need:

9.9 oz. Coconut Oil

9.9 oz. Olive Oil

9.9 oz. Palm Oil

3.3 oz. Rice Bran Oil

4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide

10.8 oz. distilled water

Titanium Dioxide

Fizzy Lemonade Colorant

Luster Black Mica

1 tbs. Poppy Seeds

.5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil

1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil

10″ Silicone Loaf Mold

Optional: Sodium Lactate

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of Sunflower or Sweet Almond Oil (or any other liquid oil). Finally, disperse 1 teaspoon Fizzy Lemonade Colorant into 1 tablespoon of light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

FRAGRANCE BLEND: In a glass container, combine 1 oz. of Champagne Fragrance Oil and .5 oz. of Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil. Set aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Combine the Coconut, Olive Oil, Rice Bran and Palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of Palm Oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add Sodium Lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of Sodium Lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate.
THREE: Once you’ve reached a light trace, pour about 3 cups of batter into a second container.
FOUR: Add 3 tsp. dispersed Fizzy Lemonade Colorant to the newly poured 3-cup container. Mix in the colorant with a wire whisk.
FIVE: Add half of the fragrance oil blend, and use a whisk to fully incorporate.
SIX: Carefully pour yellow soap into the mold. Tap down firmly to release any bubbles and evenly disperse soap.
SEVEN: To create the mica vein, use a powder duster to sprinkle a thin layer of Luster Black Mica over the freshly poured yellow soap. To help the mica vein to disperse evenly, lose your eyes and blow gently on the color. Watch out, this part can get a bit messy!
SEVEN: In the second container, add 2 tbs. dispersed Titanium Dioxide and the remaining fragrance blend. Use a whisk to fully incorporate.
EIGHT: Add 1 tablespoon of poppy seeds, and use a whisk to fully mix in.
NINE: Gently and slowly, pour the white soap into the mold. In order to avoid the white soap from breaking through into the yellow layer, you may choose to pour the soap over a spatula into the mold. We found the yellow layer was firm enough at this point that this was not necessary.
TEN: Using a spatula, gently swirl the top of the soap to create a wave pattern. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for 3-4 days before unmolding. Allow the soap to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.

To see this tutorial in action, check out the video below!

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103 Comments

  1. I am relatively new at soaping. Made ma first batch in Oct/15 and have been hooked since. I’ve been wanting to try this recipe for a while now, finally today was the day. Unfortunately my soap was too loose and the white layer broke through the mica and yellow layer, so I went with it and did a quick swirl. I can’t wait to cut it to see how it turned out. It smells amazing!

    • Yay, so glad you got a chance to try this soap out! Great job thinking on your feet and adding that swirl. It’s going to look amazing. If you have pictures, feel free to share them on our Facebook page. We’d love to see. 🙂

      Bramble Berry Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  2. When you’re dispersing the titanium dioxide colorant into the oil, does the amount of oil used need to be taken into account when calculating the amount of lye needed? For example, say a recipes’ oils are composed of 10% sweet almond oil. Would you disperse the 2 tsp of TD into 2 tbsp of sweet almond, and subtract that 2 tbsp from the 10% you’re mixing together in the base oils?

  3. Hi I purchased the basic mix as well as the lots of lather mix from bramble berry, I was wondering if I could use those pre-made mixes for this particular recipe? I’m new to cp making and this would be my first try.

  4. i must say I am so proud of myself.. First time in my life making any kind of soap in my life, I chose to try this two weeks ago and it came out out awesome. Still curing, cant wait to use it.. Great tutorial. Thank you bunches😁
    Now im off to see what I wanna try next!

    • That’s awesome Jada, congratulations! Sounds like you’re a natural. 🙂

      If you like, you can share pictures of your soap on our Facebook page. We love to see all the beautiful soaps people make!

      Bramble Berry Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/BrambleBerry/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  5. Hi,
    I want to make the CP lemon poppy seed soap, but don’t have any rice bran oil. What can I use in place of it, in the recipe? I have almost every other kind of oil and butter, and really don’t want to buy more oil, just for this recipe. Are you able to give me a substitute? I have a lot of Argan oil, would this work? Thank you so much, for your help.

    ~Barb

  6. Hey Kelsey,

    Iam new to soap making. So experimenting with M& P. Can I add fresh fruit juices to M&P. Will my soaps turn rancid? I want to make a papaya soap

  7. What is your best suggestion for avoiding glycerin rivers? I’ve followed this similar process (with less TD in many cases) and still seem to get them quite often. I do notice that it’s ONLY when I used TD, none of my colors ever river. Help? Thanks! =)

  8. Hi. Getting ready to make this soap. I do not have the 99%alcohol to spray on the mica vein. Can j use regular rubbig alcohol? Or just go without altogether? Any help appreciated. Thanks!

    • Hi TJ!

      If you don’t have 99% alcohol, you can dust that mica on and blow gently to distribute the powder. Make sure you have eye protection on! See how to do that in the Lemon Poppy Seed video on Soap Queen TV: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/lemon-poppy-seed-cold-process-on-soap-queen-tv/

      Also, we’ve found the best way to distribute mica and protect from soda ash is with 99% isopropyl alcohol. You can read more about that in the Sunday Night Spotlight: 99% Isopropyl Alcohol: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-99-isopropyl-alcohol/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Thanks! I made this tonight with goats milk. I think it turned out nicely!! The only thing I forgot was to add the 2nd part of the fragrance to the white part. But I blame that on my husband and kids bugging me a million times ☺️ Thanks for your help!

        • You’re welcome! So glad this soap turned out nicely for you. Also, kids and husbands can definitely be distracting! It will still smell great though. 🙂

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

          • Not sure where the rest of my question went in my last post. Sorry if this is repeat. I’m wondering if the Colors dulled because I used milk. It was frozen and did not seem scorched. Thanks in advance!

          • Hi TJ!

            Hmm, that’s strange! Where did you store your soap? Let me know and we’ll figure this out. 🙂

            -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

          • Hi TJ!

            If the milk gets hot, it can discolor a little bit. We recommend popping your soap in the freezer after it’s in the mold to keep it from scorching. You can keep it in there for four hours or up to overnight.

            Also, if your soap is in direct sunlight, those colors can fade. We recommend curing your soap in a cool, dark place with lots of air flow. 🙂

            -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

          • Hey Kelsey,
            Sorry for all the questions. Do you have advice on how to store my soaps before taking them to market? I’m wondering if an airtight container is ok or if that will be bad for them. Maybe a box with no lid? Not sure what’s best
            Thanks!

          • Hi TJ!

            No worries, I am happy to answer any questions you may have!

            After your soap is out of the mold, we recommend letting it cure for 4-6 weeks. The best place to cure them is a cool, dry place with lots of air flow. In the Soap Lab, we use a metal baker’s rack.

            As for storing them, it may help to have a container with some air holes if you’re planning to leave them in there for awhile. That way, any excess water can evaporate and prevent oil rancidity. Read more about that in the Dealing with Dreaded Orange Spots post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/

            This Selling Success at Fairs and Public Markets post may be helpful for you as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/business/selling-fairs-public-markets-guest-post/

            -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

            A plastic container with a few holes in the top may work!

  9. Hi there, I cannot wait to try this recipe! The only thing is I that I have a 5lb silicone mold. I’m sure you’ve already been asked this but how do I measure this recipe in 5lbs? I know there is the lye calculator, I’m just a little bit rusty using it. This would be my first batch of soap in about a year 🙁 Trying to get back to it. And this recipe seems to be a little bit more advanced than any of my other batches. It’s definitely the one I want to tackle though! If you could help me and give me some advice that would be so greatly appreciated! Thank you!

    • Hi Lindy!

      Absolutely, I’d be happy to help! The best way to resize recipes is to find out the percentage of each oil. An easy way to do that is to plug in each oil amount in the Lye Calculator and click “Calculate.” Next to the oil amounts, you will see a percentage. You can also add up all the oil, lye and water amounts. Then, divide each ingredient by the total amount.

      For example, this recipe is 48.4 ounces total. Each oil divided by 48.4 gives me:
      30% coconut oil
      30% olive oil
      30% palm oil
      10% rice bran oil

      Then, go back to the Lye Calculator and choose “Percentage.” Then, you can choose the final weight of your batch (80 ounces) and choose your superfat level. Next, plug in the percentage and click “Calculate.”

      Hope that helps! This Soapy Math blog post may be helpful for you as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/math-soapers/

      Have fun making this soap Lindy! It’s a lot of fun. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  10. Thank you so much for your response! I will give it another try soon, I love how this soap looks so much! What is a proper way to dispose of a botched batch? I handled it with gloves on (is it dangerous?) and put it in the garbage when it was still quite warm, it made me so nervous!

    • Hi Isabela!

      You’re welcome! Actually, that soap should be just fine to use! Gel phase doesn’t affect the final soap, it just makes the colors a bit brighter. So, you can still use it! If you do need to throw a soap away, we recommend waiting a couple of days and then throwing it out. That way the oil and lye have had a chance to turn into soap and won’t react with anything in the trash can. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  11. Hello, first time making cp, started with this project! By the time the oils got properly mixed with the lye water soap got to thick. I managed to push the yellow part in the mould with a spatula but in the meantime the rest of the soap got solid and then started to get hot and change texture while I was watching it! Soon the one in the mould started to do the same thing starting in the middle! I got scared things will start to break, explode or catch fire! Lol What went wrong? And what is the proper way to dispose of the ruined batch? Your site is my absolute favourite! I have a long list of supplies I want to order from you, just waiting for the canadian dollar to get better!

    • Hi Isabela!

      It sounds like that soap started to go through gel phase! During gel phase, the soap gets very hot and gelatinous. The good news is gel phase doesn’t affect the final soap at all, it’s purely aesthetic. Some soapers actually make the soap go through gel phase because it makes the colors brighter. You can learn more about that in the Jazzed About Gel Phase post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/gel-phase/

      I think the reason the soap started to go through gel phase was because of the oil and lye temperatures. If they are on the hotter side, the soap will start to gel. We usually recommend having your oils and lye around 100-130F, and typically within 10 degrees of each other. That ensures all the oils stay melted but you still have time to work with your design.

      Also, depending on the recipe, it can take only 30-60 seconds for that soap to emulsify! You can learn more about trace, or the thickness of the soap, in the All About the Trace post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/trace/

      We have a four-part video series on making cold process soap that may be helpful for you! It talks more about trace and how to work with colors and fragrance. You can find that in the Beginning Soaper Resource Roundup: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/beginning-soaper-resource-roundup/

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  12. Hi Kelsey,
    I just made this soap and was not able to get the «hoped for» white color. Mine turned out a yellowy butter color. I even tried to mix in an extra tsp of oil-diluted Titanium oxide at the last minute, to no avail. I suspect it was because of the olive oil I used; quite dark. But I’am not sure. I used the Gallo brand, extra virgin olive oil. Compared to your picture, my oil mixture looked much cloudier than yours. Any ideas? Thank you in advance, Helene

  13. Hello,
    I am very new to soapin and I was wondering if this could be used with melt and pour? I would like to make this soap. Please advise.
    Thanks

  14. Here’s my question. First- don’t laugh! Ok, you use titanium dioxide to make it white, right? Well, is this titanium dioxide the same titanium dioxide they sell at Michael’s and Hobby Lobby in the cake department? The one they use to make the cake batter white?

    • Hi Jenna!

      No worries, we are happy to help! That is correct, the titanium dioxide is a colorant that makes your soap white. 🙂

      Titanium dioxide: https://www.brambleberry.com/Titanium-Dioxide-Pigment-P4040.aspx

      While the titanium dioxide used for cakes may be similar, I would recommend using the colorant from brambleberry.com. It is specifically intended for use in soap, and has been tested multiple times. The titanium dioxide in the store is intended for food and may do some weird things in your soap!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  15. Hi,
    Just out of interest could I use activated charcoal instead of mica? and natural colorants? I want to do this but would like to use more natural ingredients. Also I am in the uk is there another FO or EO I could use as I can’t get your one! Thank you

  16. I will be making this soap soon. I have a curious question. I was using your lye calculator and plugged in all the oils listed. I set the superfatting to 5%. The calculator gives a higher lye amount than what’s in the recipe. The numbers didn’t calculate out until I had the superfatting at 10%. Is this correct or does the 1.5oz of fragrance oil come into the mix? In other words, superfatting @ 5% and then the fragrance oil bumps it up more?

    • Hi Lorna!

      I just ran that recipe through the Lye Calculator again to double check! I got 4.6 oz. lye and 10.8 oz. water at a 5% superfat. I’m not exactly sure why the calculation you gave me is different! Could you maybe have added an extra oil? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. 🙂

      Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx

      Also, fragrance oils are considered an additive. That means they are not factored into your oil weight. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Lorna is correct that the recipe is not 5% superfat. When you enter everything as listed and put in 5%, you get lye at 4.693, so that rounds to 4.7. If you put in 7% superfat, then you get lye at 4.593 which rounds to 4.6, like in your recipe.

        • Hi Martina!

          We typically superfat at 5%, but this recipe was superfatted at 7% to add a little bit of extra luxury to the recipe! Thanks so much for catching that. That was my mistake. Sorry about that!

          The great news is both superfat levels feel great on your skin. 🙂

          -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  17. Hi! I would like to make this beautiful soap! I was wandering how did you use the poppy seeds? Raw or toasted? Thank you!

  18. Hi Kelsey,
    I’m a total newbie. Yesterday, I made a lavender swirl goats milk soap, and the lavender part turned a funky greenish grey. Today, I want to try this beautiful soap, but had a question regarding the yellow pigment. It states to disperse 1 tsp colorant into 1 T oil. Further in the recipe it states to add 3 tsp of dispersed yellow colorant. I’m confused. Also, do the la bomb colors have to be diluted. It says they should be, but then I read you could use them as is. Thanks for all your great tutorials. Clearly I have a LOT to learn.
    Thanks,
    Amy

  19. Hi! love this recipe! Can you pls tell me do I subtract the number of teaspoons of water to equal the tsps. Of sodium lactate that I am adding to the cooled lye water? Thank in advance co!

  20. My soap separated into two. the black titanium didn’t allow them to seal. What did I do wrong? 🙁
    Thank you

    • Hi Alba!

      Oh no! I’d love the help you troubleshoot. How hard was your bottom layer? How much Black Oxide did you use, and how much alcohol? Let me know and we’ll get this figured out. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  21. Hi, I want to make this soap, but I would like to scent it with just Lemongrass EO. I’ve never done that, so do you think that just Lemongrass on its own would smell good in it? Would it discolor anything? Everything else would be the same. Thank you!

    • Hi Martina!

      Lemongrass Essential Oil would work just fine in this recipe. It does discolor a slight yellow, which is actually to your advantage!

      As for the smell, it’s your personal preference. You may want to make a small test batch to see if you like it. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  22. Hi Kelsey and Kristen!

    Thank you for your answers! I think I did let the bottom layer set up too long and I did put quite a bit of alcohol because i was afraid of the very thing that happened! I will try the soap again because I think it is so pretty. and Kristen, thanks for the suggestion of a redo in case I need it next time (fingers crossed). You guys are great!

    Thanks again for the responses

    • Hi Carol!

      You are welcome! Also, a lot of mica can make those layers separate. So the key is that the bottom is still liquid, and not too much mica or alcohol. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  23. To Kelsie from Carol Nuccitelli,

    Thank you so much for answering my email… I so want to figure out what happened because it was such a pretty soap, I want to make it again! The first problem I encountered was that the white layer seemed to not turn white, it was a dull yellow so I added an extra tsp of titanium dioxide. I sprayed the mica layer with alcohol when I was able to put my finger on it without it going through. I poured it over a spatula anyway. I fooled around with it until it was set up enough to get some swirls on the top. It really did look great so I’m not sure what I did wrong. I followed the directions exactly. I’m willing to give it another go. Any suggestions would be welcomed 🙂

    • Carol you may want to try using the “failed” pieces as inserts in another batch of soap – I have saved some great soap that way. I can imagine the pieces cut into blocks and scattered thru another batch of layered yellow/white. It would look wonderful!

    • Hi Carol!

      It sounds like you let your bottom layer set up before pouring your second layer. We recommend pouring the second layer as soon as it’s colored and fragranced and the bottom layer is still liquid. 🙂

      Also, spraying too much alcohol can cause some problems. Spray just enough so that mica is dispersed, but not so much that it’s saturated. That should help!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

      • Thank you Kelsey and Kristen! I will try making the soap again. I think I did let the bottom set up too long before pouring the top layer. And Kristen, thanks for the suggestion re. using the other batch in another way. It’s always a good thing to turn a negative into a positive 🙂

  24. I am brand new to soaping. This is my second attempt. I just cut my bars and they are FABULOUS!!!!

    They smell amazing and look beautiful. The colors turned out perfect.

    Thank you for the recipe books, tutorials and soap tv episodes. I read and watched everything I could before starting and am so pleased.

  25. I just made a key lime version of this because I never have the right FO for any recipe I want to make. Not that I don’t have loads of OTHER FOs, most from other sources so I have no idea how they’ll behave until I use them :/ I made the lime green color by adding some of that neon blue raspberry colorant to the fizzy lemonade. Thank goodness for grade school art class! I do have a question: Is there a GOOD green color for a plain, unscented green swirl to go with the natural brown of your mint chocolate chip FO? I usually stay away from browning FOs because I like the soap, but no one else does (!!!) no matter what the scent. But brown and green for mint choc chip, how could that go wrong??? Appreciate any advice 🙂

  26. xtremely disappointed
    Hi all, I made this recipe and all went well… looked beautiful. about 5 days after curing (and 4 in the mold), I picked one up and it completely fell apart in my hands at the mica line. Knowing the nature of soap I picked up another and “very gently” put pressure on both sides. It too broke apart at the same place. As a matter of fact, they all did. I’m just sick about this. One good thing is that I didn’t sell it and have it happen to the customer!!! Out $74.00 for this kit and now I can’t even sell them. Wah Wah.:( Is there any way to put them back together ?

    • Hi Carol!

      I’m so sorry about the soap fell apart!

      Do you mind if I ask how you made the recipe? When did you pour your white layer? Also, did you spray the middle with alcohol?

      Let me know and we’ll figure this out! 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  27. So, I did end up finding palm oil once I knew what to look for locally, and was able to make this soap exactly like the recipe. I mixed my colors as directed and at first was a bit hesitant thinking, “wow, my white is nowhere near as white and my yellow is dull…I was also very nervous about the black vein, having never done anything like it before. On one hand I didn’t want to unmold as I was sure it was a flop, and on the other I couldn’t wait to see how it turned out.
    I removed the soap from the mold after 24 hrs and it was absolutely beautiful. The colors were perfect. Nice, bright, and refreshing. The black turned out amazing and just really amplifies the whole thing. Honestly, as great as the pictures look here, they don’t do the soap justice!
    This soap was a bit challenging for me as I’d never really done any like it before. But now that it’s under my belt, I could whip it out easily. A bit of caution here: Light trace means light trace! This soap will set up quickly, so once you get to the light trace mark, don’t monkey around to much 🙂 this soap will be ready for the mold!
    Thanks for the great recipe. Love the colors. Love the scent. And love the exfoliating properties of the poppyseed.

    Now, I’ve got a freezer full of goats milk! Do you have any recipes along these same lines using milk??

    Thanks again.

    Colin

  28. Hi,
    I made my very first soap 2 days ago- simple white and purple swirl in that mold with 2oz of Lavender EO and it looks gorgeous (if I say so myself 🙂 ).
    But, I must admit, even though I read through this tutorial and many others, and I MUST have read where it says not to unmold for 3-4 days, it never really registered. I just had to peek in 24 hours! I pulled the sides gently a tiny bit to see, and of course pulled a bit of the soap off too. 🙁
    That will teach me to pay more attention! But, I still can’t stop smelling that wonderful soap and chasing my kids holding the loaf and asking them to smell it too! 🙂
    Thanks for everything you do!!!

    • Hi Martina!

      Congratulations on your first soap, that’s so exciting! I can’t tell you how many marks I’ve left on soap from unmolding too early. It’s hard to wait sometimes! 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  29. Curious on the fragrance amount, the list of ingredients says:
    .5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil
    1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil

    But then the direction says:
    combine 1 oz. of Champagne Fragrance Oil and 1 oz. of Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil.

    • Hi Stacie!

      Whoops, thanks for the eagle eye! That’s fixed now. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  31. I made this soap last weekend. Absolutely love it. It turned out perfect. Thanks for the great tutorials.

  32. Este jabón me encantó. Lo hice siguiendo las indicaciones, pero cambie el aceite de arroz(en Chile no hay) por aceite de castor porque tenían el mismo indice de saponificación. El problema es que lo hice hace más de una semana y no lo puedo desmoldar porque está blando. Ah!…le puse una cucharada de lactato de sodio…Tengo que seguir esperarando, hasta cuando?????…SOS…Saludos cariñosos

    • Hi Veronica!

      Oh no, I’m sorry to hear that bar is still soft! How much water did you add, and how much sodium lactate?

      Let me know and we’ll figure this out. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  33. This is beautiful soap. I have just begun to experiment with layering and I’m excited to try this one 🙂 when you slice the bars, how do you prevent the poppy seeds from leaving drag marks? I am plagued my marks left in my soaps from cutting through whatever exfoliating medium I use…I would love to know how to prevent this!

    • Hi Melissa!

      We laid this soap on its side to cut it and didn’t have any drag marks. That may work for you too! 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  34. This is so pretty!!! I’ve been trying to think of a cute design for my Meyer Lemon fo, and I think I just found it!!
    Two questions though. I have always loved your titanium dioxide, because it can be mixed in water or oil, and have found it disperses better in water. But now I’m wondering if mixing it in water is helping to cause the glycerin rivers. Any thoughts as to which works better?
    My other question is about the sodium lactate. I have been using 1 tsp per pound of soap, not oils. Will that make much of a difference to my soap? It hasn’t seemed crumbly or hard to cut, so maybe it’s okay to leave it that way?
    Thanks, can’t wait to make this soap!! 🙂

    • Hi LuAnn!

      Extra water in your cold process recipes can sometimes cause glycerin rivers. If you’re worried about them, you can water discount at 5%. That should help prevent it. 🙂

      Also, we usually recommend 1 tsp. per pound of oils for Sodium Lactate. However, if you found that amount works for you that’s fine too!

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  36. Love this soap! your pencil line is so straight:) Will Brambleberry make dividers for the 10 ” silicone mold? also will there be a tall & skinny version of this mold ?Thanks

    • Hi Pooja!

      So glad you like this soap!

      We don’t have any plans at this time to make dividers or different sizes of our 10″ Silicone Mold, but thank you for that suggestion. 🙂

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  37. I have lemon cake fragrance oil – love the scent, and was wondering if I could use that instead. I know the Lemon Cake FO discolors in CP, so I purchased some vanilla stabilizer. Absolutely love the look of this soap.

    • Hi Bronwyn!

      So glad you like this soap!

      If you use Lemon Cake Fragrance Oil, it will discolor your soap to a dark brown.

      Also, we don’t recommend using Vanilla Color Stabilizer for cold process soap because it doesn’t work too well.

      -Kelsey with Bramble Berry

  39. This is beautiful, love it. Would you recommend putting it in the freezer for awhile to prevent gycerin rivers or it wouldn’t happen since I didn’t see where mentioned that above using titanium dioxide. Plus did you insulate to gel or just leave it in the mold for three days. Just a concern since I didnt see it in your notes above. Thanks for the tutorial on this happy soap Soap Queen. Continue doing the fabulous work. Enjoy your day.

  40. Looks fabulous! Can’t wait to try this. What percentage of superfat is calculated into the recipe? Thank you!

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