After the holidays, I always feel the need for a bit of detoxing and rejuvenation. That desire to hit the reset button inspired this soap recipe, which contains rose clay and charcoal. Both are known for their oil-absorbing properties. Charcoal in particular binds to dirt and oil in the skin, bringing them to the surface. In these bars, charcoal is sprinkled in between layers to create rustic-looking stripes.
The rose clay in this recipe is dispersed in distilled water rather than oil to help compensate for the absorption properties. Learn more about working with clays in your products. The clay, along with Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, will cause the trace to become thick rather quickly. For this design that’s totally okay. These bars are meant to have a natural and rustic look to them, so you don’t need to worry about the layers being straight or the top being smooth. These bars really play up the thick texture!
After a few washes, the rose petals will fall off. But, I think they are totally worth it – they really are the cherry on top! Of course if you want to skip them, feel free. When it’s time to cut the bars, the rose petals can get caught under the knife and create drag marks. I threw caution to the wind and used the Multi-Bar Cutter. That created drag marks on about half the bars. But, I think they actually contribute to the “natural” look and feel. Depending on your preference, cut the bars on the side to avoid the drag marks, or embrace them by cutting straight down.
What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
36 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
11.8 oz. Distilled Water
5.2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 tsp. Rose Clay + 2 Tbs. Distilled Water
1/2 tsp. Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
Activated Charcoal
2 oz. Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil
Rose Petals
Optional: Powder Duster
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If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
COLOR PREP: Disperse 2 teaspoons of rose clay into 2 tablespoons of distilled water. Stir until there are no chunks. Dispersing the clay in water helps compensate for the water it absorbs. Then, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of Fired Up Fuchsia into 1/2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps. Have a couple teaspoons of activated charcoal nearby to sprinkle in between layers, and rose petals nearby to place on top.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
TWO: Fully melt the bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Give the bag a good shake to mix the oils, and measure 36 ounces of the oil into your soaping bowl. Slowly add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate. Stick blend the soap until it’s at a thin trace.
THREE: Add all the dispersed rose clay and one teaspoon of the dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk to fully mix in both colorants.
FOUR: Add the Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, and whisk until completely blended in. Now it’s time to create layers!
FIVE: Use a spoon or spatula to add about 1/3 of the soap mixture into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to spread it in the bottom of the mold. Then, use the spoon to create texture. We aren’t going for perfectly straight lines, so just have fun with the shape!
SIX: Add a small amount of the activated charcoal into the powder duster, and lightly dust the charcoal over the top of the soap. Do your best to only apply a thin layer. If too much charcoal is applied, the soap layers may not stick together.
SEVEN: Use a spoon to add about 1/3 of the soap batter on top of the first layer, and spread it evenly on top. Then, create texture with the spoon.
EIGHT: Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Dust another thin and even layer of charcoal onto the second layer. Spoon the remaining soap into the mold, and spread the soap with the spoon to evenly cover the charcoal. Use the spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to create a textured top, but don’t be afraid to create some dramatic peaks. The soap will be quite thick, so you may need to be more heavy-handed with the pressure you apply to the soap than usual.
NINE: Once you’re happy with the look of the top, sprinkle rose petals on top of the entire loaf, concentrating the petals in the center. Gently press the petals into the soap to help them stick. Spritz with 99% alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 1-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. If you would like to prevent drag marks from the petals, lay the loaf on its side and cut from the side. I cut the soap regularly and embraced the rustic look of a few drag marks on some of the bars.
- 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
- 36 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
- 11.8 oz. Distilled Water
- 5.2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 2 tsp. Rose Clay + 2 Tbs. Distilled Water
- ½ tsp. Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
- Activated Charcoal
- 2 oz. Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil
- Rose Petals
- Optional: Powder Duster
- Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
- Fully melt the bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Give the bag a good shake to mix the oils, and measure 36 ounces of the oil into your soaping bowl. Slowly add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate. Stick blend the soap until it’s at a thin trace.
- Add all the dispersed rose clay and one teaspoon of the dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk to fully mix in both colorants.
- Add the Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, and whisk until completely blended in. Now it’s time to create layers!
- Use a spoon or spatula to add about ⅓ of the soap mixture into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to spread it in the bottom of the mold. Then, use the spoon to create texture. We aren’t going for perfectly straight lines, so just have fun with the shape!
- Add a small amount of the activated charcoal into the powder duster, and lightly dust the charcoal over the top of the soap. Do your best to only apply a thin and even layer. If too much charcoal is applied, the soap layers may not stick together.
- Use a spoon to add about ⅓ of the soap batter on top of the first layer, and spread it evenly on top. Then, create texture with the spoon.
- Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Dust another thin and even layer of charcoal onto the second layer. Spoon the remaining soap into the mold, and spread the soap with the spoon to evenly cover the charcoal. Use the spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to create a textured top, but don’t be afraid to create some dramatic peaks. The soap will be quite thick, so you may need to be more heavy-handed with the pressure you apply to the soap than usual.
- Once you’re happy with the look of the top, sprinkle rose petals on top of the entire loaf, concentrating the petals in the center. Gently press the petals into the soap to help them stick. Spritz with 99% alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 1-3 days. Unmold, and cut into bars. If you would like to prevent drag marks from the petals, lay the loaf on its side and cut from the side. I cut the soap regularly and embraced the rustic look of a few drag marks on some of the bars.
I’m new to this – after it’s saponified does the charcoal turn suds black? And is there black residue that could possibly be seen on your tub after using the soap?
You’ll only have to worry about that if you overcolor your soap. If you’re following this recipe, you won’t encounter either of those issues.
This recipe doesn’t mention temperature of the oils and lye. Should it be cool, warm? I get a little confused with this. I realize they should be close in temperature but how do you achieve that? Thank you!
It is ideal to have your oils and lye water within 10 degrees of each other but that doesn’t need to be exact. A good general temperature is around 110-120 degrees F.
I mistakenly used sodium lauryl sulfoacetate instead of sodium lactate in this soap recipe. Any way to salvage this? Possible use it as a bubble bath bar? Any advice other that read more carefully would be appreciated. Thank you!
We’re not sure. The SLSA and the lye may react poorly when mixed together, so you will probably want to throw that batch away.
Hi! I had an issue when I was adding rose clay to my melt-and-pour soap base at home. I know this is not relevant to this recipe but I could not find anywhere else to ask a question on this website. (I’m rather new at this, I’m sure that’s obvious.) When I added the clay to the melted base my soap turned a rather muddy green color. Does anyone know what might have caused this? I tried adding it both by itself and dispersed in rubbing alcohol, both additions resulted in an ugly brownish green.
Nevermind, it seems I had mistakenly purchased rose petal powder. Whoops, hopefully, the actual rose clay I just ordered will work much better.
I think that’s definitely it. The rose clay will give you a nice subtle pink color.
Approximately how long do you expect to blend before it reaches a thin trace? I’ve been going for 30 mins and it’s still incredibly liquidy, definitely not possible to create layers like this. Perhaps I did something wrong, but want to be sure it’s not just a matter of more patience!
It should start to emulsify in about 30 seconds to a minute. Are you using a stick blender or a handheld electric mixer? Are you using sodium hydroxide lye, and how old is it? I can help you troubleshoot.
Hi.
Thank you so much for this tutorial.
Would I be able to do this with Melt & Pour soap batter? If so, do you have a tutorial/video of how to do it?
Thank you!
Kim~
The thick texture you see in the photos is only available with cold process. The good news is you can get nice straight layers with melt and pour. Learn how here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/5-tips-layering-melt-pour/
Learn more in this post on recreating cold process designs with melt and pour: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/re-creating-cold-process-melt-pour-soap-designs/
Can I use the Rose Quartz Fragrance oil instead?
Yes, that fragrance is a great option for this recipe. It does accelerate a bit, but that will work well for the thicker layers in this project. Just stick blend until a thin trace and whisk the color and fragrance in.
Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Rose-Quartz-Fragrance-Oil-P6693.aspx
Find out how much to add with our Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
Get tips for working with accelerating fragrances here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-behaving-badly/
Would it work to mix the rose petals into the soap rather than just pressing on the top?
You can do that if you like, but keep in mind they will turn brown in the soap.
I made this’d accidentally added too much sodium lactate to the lye water nd now as the soap is cooling in the mold I can see a pool of oil rising to the top of the soap. Can it be salvaged or is this batch ruined?
I don’t think it’s the sodium lactate. Did the soap get fairly hot? Sometimes liquid can separate out when the soap gets hot, but it does reabsorb in a few days. Also, how long did you stick blend that batch?
Hello, I recently made this soap and I left it in the mold for two days then checked on it and it seemed very soft, then I came back and took it out after four days but it’s still very soft. Should I cut it and leave it out to harden? if so, how long will that take?
The soap may just need a few more days to harden in the mold. Check it after another day or two. If it’s still soft, you can pop it in the freezer for a few hours to harden it up. Then, unmold and cut while it’s still pretty cold. The soap will harden more quickly once it’s cut into bars.
I made this bar last week. After taking my ‘loaf’ out of the mold I can see the top most layer of soap didn’t quite make it all the way to the edges of the mold; there are holes and round parts where I can see my charcoal sprinkle. My trace was very thick by the time I put the last layer on so I’m wondering if that had something to do with it. Any trouble shooting for future bars where there are layers versus one mix being poured completely into my mold? I wish I could upload a photo here!
When you’re working with multiple layers, it helps to use a recipe with slow-moving oils and a non-accelerating fragrance. That way you get plenty of time to work. When you’re stick blending the soap, stop at thin trace (the texture of melted ice cream) and split into different containers. The soap will thicken as it sits, so don’t stick blend too much. If you find the soap is too thin when you’re ready to use it, give it a few bursts with a stick blender to thicken it.
This post is on swirling soap, but the tips apply to layers as well: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/five-tips-swirling-cold-process-soap/
Hello!
I too, would like to make this soap bar as natural as possible and would like to omit the fuchsia colorant and fragrance oil and instead use pink clay and rose essential oil. I am curious however, if the recipe changes in anyway as I don’t want to mess up the science here! Would you be able to let me know how the measurements change?
I tried using the fragrance calculator but that isn’t working for some reason and only directs me to the available scents on the BB site. And the rose clay is sold out. Could you please tell me how much essential oil should be used in place of the fragrance oil? Also, is there a different more natural colorant that can be used since the rose clay is sold out?
Thank you!
If you’re looking for a natural pink colorant (other than rose clay) pink Brazilian clay would be a good option. It gives soap a nice light pink hue. Using a different color will not seriously change the recipe. I would recommend starting with about 1-2 teaspoons of the clay and adding more if you want more color.
Pink Brazilian Clay: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pink-Brazilian-Clay-P5499.aspx
The general usage rate for essential oils in cold process soap is .7 ounces of oil per pound of soap. This recipe is 53 ounces, or 3.3 pounds. About 2.3 ounces of essential oil would give you a nice strong scent. You can use less if you prefer something lighter.
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
Thank you!
anybody ever have an itchy throat from using the rosehip fragrance oil? I made this soap yesterday, since then the whole house smells like roses. anytime I’m in a room where I worked on the soap, I have an itchy threat. I’m not allergic to roses or any ingredients in the soap. I know that rosehip can be used to make itching powder. my husband is also having the same reaction. if I make this soap again is there a replacement for the rosehip fragrance oil?
I’m not quite sure why that’s happening, but I would definitely recommend to stop using that fragrance oil and talk to a doctor. If you’re sensitive to fragrances, you may consider wearing a dust or surgical mask when soaping. That’s something you can talk about more with your doctor!
Also, you can use any skin-safe fragrance you like in this recipe. Find more here: https://www.brambleberry.com/Fragrance-Oils-C161.aspx
And learn how much to add with our Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Is it possible to add the dried flower petals to already cured CP soap??
The petals won’t stick to hard soap, they need to be pressed into the fresh soap to hold on. You can add them to your next batch though! Press them into the fresh soap using a gloved hand to help them stick. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
for the measurements are they volume or weight?
Everything is a weight measurement except the colors, those are using teaspoon volume measurements. We find putting a container on the scale, zeroing it out, and weighing the oils/lye by weight is more accurate. Learn more here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/a-guide-to-weight-vs-volume/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I want to make this bar so bad. it’s beautiful. I have never made soap or done cold process soap before. are there any links or suggestions for a first timer like myself?
We have a ton of great resources if you’re just getting started making soap. The Beginning Soaper Resource Roundup has information on everything from formulating recipes to adding color: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/beginning-soaper-resource-roundup/
We also did a Back to Basics series with simple beginner recipes and tips. You can find that roundup here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/back-to-basic-series-roundup-quiz/
We re also here to help. If you have any questions, let us know. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Is it possible to make lye solution with rose water in purpose to omitt fragrance oils and have rose smell?
You can make this recipe with rose water. The rose water does discolor yellowish when you add the lye, so we recommend refrigerating it beforehand to prevent some of that discoloration. Also, the smell in the finished bars is very subtle. For a more rosy scent, you may want to add a bit of fragrance. Baby Rose is a good option: https://www.brambleberry.com/Baby-Rose-Fragrance-Oil-P3878.aspx
Find out how much to add with our Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I have added rose fragrant oil in amount of 1.6 oz for 1 lb of soap and it deceised… in seconds soap became shape of mixing container… I had re batch it strait away, but did not cook it 20 min ir so. It took less than 10 min on very low, and i was able to glop it into mould …is it safe to use after few days? What ph should it have? Thank you for your help, appreciate that😃
The soap should have a pH of 9-10 after 5 days. Learn more about that here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/
Also, rose fragrances can be tricky to work with. This post has tips to help: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-behaving-badly/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can this recipe be done in a hot process?
It sure can. The main difference is you’ll add the color and fragrance at the end of the cook, rather than at trace. You can also do the pencil line, see how to do that with hot process in this tutorial: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/luck-irish-hot-proces/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I made this soap but as i was cutting it, the soap crumbled and broke. and the ones that didn’t crumble they separated where the charcoal is… what should i do so this doesn’t happen again?
If the layer of charcoal in between the layers is fairly thick, it can cause the soap to separate. It helps to sprinkle a very thin layer and carefully blow to distribute it. Is the texture of the soap itself pretty dry and crumbly, or is it just separating where the layers are?
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I made this soap and it came out BEAUTIFULLY! Exactly as your pictures. I even expected the FO to accelerate a little and it didn’t; in fact I had to blend the soap a bit more to thicken it up in order to have the contours for the charcoal line. I soaped around 105° (30% olive oil, palm oil, coconut oil with 10% castor and avocado) and it behaved wonderfully, and smells outta this world. I blended the “Rosehip and Jasmine” with just a touch of another deeper rose FO; cant’ wait till this cures!
That is great to hear Kathy. I imagine the extra hit of rose smells incredible.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can this be done with melt and pour or is there a variation for m&p?
You can definitely use the rose clay in this recipe to get the lovely pink color! However, the charcoal pencil line will be a bit more tricky. Powder sprinkled in between melt and pour can cause the layers to separate. Instead, you may want to add some charcoal to clear soap and pour a very thin layer in between the pink to mimic the line. Learn more in this post: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/re-creating-cold-process-melt-pour-soap-designs/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you! I finally tried it and it came out pretty great using just a sprinkle of charcoal. 99% of the soap held up but that 1% came apart. I will try your suggestion for the next batch and see if that works even better.
What would be the best recipe as far as oils to use as Cold process, if we do not have the pre-made Lather Mix?
You can make the Lots of Lather mix with oils you have at home! Find the percentages here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/sunday-night-spotlight-quick-mixes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Perfect!!! Thanks so much, cant wait to try out this design! 🙂
Clay molds prett idea but disgusting consept clay is alive it should always be made fresh it molds in a day what a waste.
When you add clay to the soap it won’t mold! That’s because cold process soap has a pH level that doesn’t allow mold to grow. So, any ingredients added to it go through pH changes and turn into soap. Learn more about that process here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-purees-to-cold-process-soap/
If you like, you can use another colorant like micas or pigments. 🙂
Learn more about how to color soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/talk-it-out-tuesday-colorants/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I made these last night minus the rose buds. they look *just* like the photo! I’m really happy with them. This is my first time with FO – and wow is it strong. a word of caution for other n00bs like me: it’s like turning your house into a LUSH store…but you can’t just buy one and leave, right? If you’re like me and have an open floor plan, be prepared to find someplace to sequester them while they cure if the living in a LUSH store is a bit too much for you. 😀 The strong scent is great and exactly what I want…obviously it’s going to have more staying power than my previous experience with EO, it’s just a lot to handle while curing if you’re not expecting it! Now I know.
That’s awesome, glad your bars turned out well! It will definitely smell rosy in your home. You can cure the soap in a room with a door or in a garage if you have one. That way the smell won’t be as strong in your home. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m thinking of reversing the color combination…so more grey with a pink ribbon. Can I sprinkle the rose clay (undisolved) or should I mix it with a small amount of ‘batter’ at trace and spread it around? I just don’t want the bars to fall apart at the ‘seam’. Thanks!
We didn’t try this recipe with a rose clay line, so I’m not entirely sure! I think it will work just fine as long as you only sprinkle a light layer. If there’s too much clay, it can cause the soap to separate. You may want to make a small test batch just to be sure. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi there! Thanks for the recipe first of all. I have a beginner question – I heard that rose petal doesn’t survive the curing process and will turn black in CP soaping (and I failed with other flower buds too). How did you manage to keep the rose petal here as is? It looks beautiful! Thanks!!
Eventually rose petals will turn brown on top of the soap. That’s something to keep in mind! If you’re not a fan of that brown colors, you can definitely skip the rose petals. The soap will still look really nice without them. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Rather than purchasing the pre mixed oils, could you give a break down of what percentages you used so I could make from scratch?
Absolutely! You can find the percentages for our Quick Mixes here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/sunday-night-spotlight-quick-mixes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Oh my gosh I wish this recipe had been up before the holidays! I tried to make a rose clay bar for my friends and it wound up crumbling 🙁 I can’t wait to try this recipe!!
Have fun Amanda! This feels really nice on the skin. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! So if I want to create a recipe with different liquid, eg. coffee, beer, tea etc. does the pH level of the liquid affect the NaOH amount? Thank you!
It won’t affect how much liquid you use! You can use the same amount recommended on the Lye Calculator for each liquid, like coffee, tea, milk, etc. 🙂
Lye Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Learn more about making soap with coffee and tea here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/use-tea-coffee-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
How many soap bars does this recipe make?
This makes 8-10 bars depending on how thick they’re cut! Our bars are about 1″ thick, so we got 10 bars. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I want aske about the fragrance oil how i can now what’s ml i add in the soap i go to buy fragrance oil and seller tell me add only 10 drops.here you but 59ml of fragrance .
He tell me fragrance is very strong and it’s name essence or thing like that i dont have any experence .what i can do please
How much you use depends on the fragrance! Some fragrances may use less in soap. If the seller recommends 10 drops I would recommend using that. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thanks alot for your answer
But its importent that this fragrance dosn’t have any alcohol all right ?
That is correct. Alcohol will cause the soap to thicken really quickly. Pure fragrance oils work best. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi Kelsey. Do you have any cold processed soap recipe that is good for the face with a combination skin (dry and oily). Actually, is CP soap even safe to use for washing the face?
Also, I’d like to make this soap with my own EO blend and i have read an article about essential oils causing discoloration. Does pink grapefruit essential oil, rose absolut , or ylang-ylang cause major discoloration? Thank you.
We have some great facial bars you may like! They are similar to regular cold process bars, but are usually made with more moisturizing oils and no scent. That makes them a bit more gentle. 🙂
These bars have witch hazel and honey and feel great on sensitive skin: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/guest-post/
The Sea Clay Avocado Facial Bars would be perfect for combo skin. The combination of oils and clay will help absorb excess oil while leaving your face feeling hydrated: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/sea-clay-avocado-facial-bar/
We also have a facial bar made with activated charcoal coming out next week. That recipe is ideal for the face as well!
Also, essential oils won’t cause browning like fragrances with vanilla can. However, essential oils can have a natural hue to them. For instance, patchouli essential oil is darker, so it can discolor the soap. Same with dark orange 10X. So, if your essential oils have a tint to them, you may see a little bit of discoloration. If they’re clear they shouldn’t discolor. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can you simply leave the charcoal out without having to make any changes to the recipe?
Absolutely! You can skip the charcoal and keep everything else the same. That will give you lovely pink bars. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Would I still have to cover this soap after putting it in the mold or can it just sit out? I can never seem to get nice peaks when I wrap up my soap after molding as they tend to flatten out!
I have a shoebox larger than my soap mold that protects the top of the soap. I cover the soap with the shoe box, and then cover with a towel.
Sometimes when the soap gels, some of the peaks on top can get soft and fall. It can help to let the soap sit for 5-10 minutes after you’re finished making the peaks. After then, the soap will be a bit more firm and may hold its shape better when gelled. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can I CPOP this recipe, with the rose petals on top, I have everything I need to make, using English rose FO instead of what is in recipe. I want to be able to sell this at my booth for Valentines Day. I’m very excited to make this but I want it to come out right.
My worry is that the rose petals may get brittle or start to burn in the oven. If you do leave them on there, make sure to check frequently to ensure they’re not burning. You can also leave them off to be extra careful. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
thank you, my husband suggested we “cook” the rose petals first and see how they do. should i get fresh roses and dry them or buy potpourri?
I would recommend buying plain dried roses. Fresh roses can give off a lot of water, especially in the oven. As long as the rose petals aren’t coated in potpourri fragrance (which isn’t usually skin safe), they’re fine to use. 🙂
Rose petals: https://www.brambleberry.com/Rose-Petals-P4020.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
can I add a fine grain sea salt to this recipe and when would I add it, at the end before I place in mold and then can I still cpop it since I am not using any rose petels
You can use salt in this recipe! Salt bars do behave differently than regular cold process soap. Once you add the salt, it begins to accelerate fairly quickly, so you won’t have a lot of time to work with your design. Also, you’ll want to cut the bars as soon as they’re firm, otherwise they can crumble. That usually only takes a few hours! Read more about salt bars here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/pretty-in-pink-salty-cold-process/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
ok – this post finally did me in – I’m ordering everything and trying to make my first batch!!!!!! I will keep you all posted!!!! Soooooo excited to try doing this – I’ve been following for quite awhile and each post gets me closer and closer to trying …. This one did me in!!!!!
Yay, have fun Suzanne! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
This looks beautiful!!! Is there any way to make this a fully “natural” soap? By using a different colorant and essential oil? Any suggestions would be lovely!
Just use Rose Clay and not any other colorant. For essential oils I’d recommend Ylang-Ylang and Lavender. I have made very similar hot process soap before and I used Ylang-Ylang and Grapefruit EOs. And I have made a very similar looking cold process soap before too, and I used English Rose for that one. 🙂
Martina has some great suggestions! Rose clay on its own will look lovely, and the ylang ylang and lavender combo sounds awesome. 🙂
Ylang ylang essential oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Ylang-Ylang-III-Essential-Oil-P4373.aspx
Lavender 40/42 essential oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Lavender-4042-Essential-Oil-P3664.aspx
Find all our essential oils here: https://www.brambleberry.com/Essential-Oils-C157.aspx
And learn how much to add with our Fragrance Calculator: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
If you want to do a blend, this post tells you how to do so safely: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-blend-essential-oils-safely/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
If you tilt the bar on the side, you can avoid skid marks!
Great tip! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
This soap is lovely! Thank you for the recipe and tutorial. Can’t wait to make it this weekend! 😊
Does the charcoal stain your wash cloth?
Because such a small amount is coming off, we haven’t found it to stain! To be extra careful make sure to rinse the washcloth thoroughly after each use. If you do notice any black, it should wash away in the laundry. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry