The sophistication of orchids and jasmine flowers inspired this cold process soap. It’s scented with new Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil, which has notes of tuberose, balsam, and musk. The scent blend is alluring and complex. To complement the scent, the soap is colored a regal purple and topped with elegant jasmine flowers.
The Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil and jasmine flowers are part of our new Modern Floral Collection, which includes four new scents, extracts, dried botanicals, and more. Click here to see all the new products.
The design in these bars is referred to as an In-The-Pot Swirl. Once the soap is split into separate containers and color is added, it’s poured back into one pot and swirled together before being poured into the mold. It’s a technique that’s great for beginners and results in a completely different swirl each time. Just be careful to not over swirl the soap or the colors can muddle.
What You Need:Swirled Orchid Cold Process Soap Tutorial
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1.5 oz. Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Queen’s Purple Mica
Activated Charcoal
Jasmine Flowers
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If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.5 ounces of Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.
COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1 teaspoon of Queen’s Purple Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Finally, mix 1/2 teaspoon of activated charcoal with 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil.
Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add 4.7 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
THREE: Once you’ve reached a very thin trace, split off about 400 mL of the soap into a separate container.
FOUR: To the larger container of soap, add all of the dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica. To achieve a slightly deeper color, add about 1/16 teaspoon of activated charcoal. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the colorants.
FIVE: To the other container of soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Mix in the colorant completely with a whisk.
SIX: Add the Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.
SEVEN: A medium trace is perfect for an In-The-Pot Swirl design. If your soap is still thin, give each container a few quick pulses with the stick blender. Just be careful to not over stick blend the soap.
EIGHT: Once you’ve achieved a medium trace, pour the white soap into the purple soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.
NINE: Once all the white soap is in the purple soap, use a spatula or large spoon to swirl the two colors together. Only swirl the soap batter about 2-3 times so the colors don’t muddle.
TEN: Pour all of the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
ELEVEN: Use a spoon to create peaks in the soap. If the soap is still too thin and is not holding its shape, wait about 2-3 minutes and try again.
TWELVE: Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle jasmine flowers on top of the soap. Gently press them into the soap to help them stick. We recommend adding extra flowers because some will fall off when the bars are cut.
THIRTEEN: Once you’re happy with the top, spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. We lightly insulated this batch by placing it in a drawer in a room temperature (about 70° F) area. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for about 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
- 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
- 33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
- 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
- 1.5 oz. Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil
- Titanium Dioxide
- Queen’s Purple Mica
- Activated Charcoal
- Jasmine Flowers
- Slowly and carefully add 4.7 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
- Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
- Once you’ve reached a very thin trace, split off about 400 mL of the soap into a separate container.
- To the larger container of soap, add all of the dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica. To achieve a slightly deeper color, add about 1/16 teaspoon of activated charcoal. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the colorants.
- To the other container of soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Mix in the colorant completely with a whisk.
- Add the Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.
- A medium trace is perfect for an In-The-Pot Swirl design. If your soap is still thin, give each container a few quick pulses with the stick blender. Just be careful to not over stick blend the soap.
- Once you’ve achieved a medium trace, pour the white soap into the purple soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.
- Once all the white soap is in the purple soap, use a spatula or large spoon to swirl the two colors together. Only swirl the soap batter about 2-3 times so the colors don’t muddle.
- Pour all of the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
- Use a spoon to create peaks in the soap. If the soap is still too thin and is not holding its shape, wait about 2-3 minutes and try again.
- Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle jasmine flowers on top of the soap. Gently press them into the soap to help them stick. We recommend adding extra flowers because some will fall off when the bars are cut.
- Once you’re happy with the top, spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. We lightly insulated this batch by placing it in a drawer in a room temperature (about 70° F) area. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for about 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
Hi there. I really like the Blushing orchid FO. I recently did a small test batch using Orchid Mica and this FO. It went into the mold with a very beautiful color….3 days later, dark grey 🙁 I know the FO says it discolors to tan but what else may have caused this? It may be that, in the future, I will only be able to use this FO with a very dark color and, perhaps no scent in a contrasting color for a swirl.
The soap morphed colors because of that discoloring Blush Orchid Fragrance Oil. It does help to use darker colors or leave part of the batch unscented if you want to use something lighter or brighter.
How to Work with Vanilla Discoloration: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/why-did-my-soap-turn-brown/
I feel so dumb. I thought I used a simple recipe and could not mess it up. I did. I actually followed the Rose one. Its the same recipe with a different fragrance. We did ours in Honeysuckle / Jasmine scent. The rose calls for 2 oz. of fragrance and this one calls for 1.5 oz. of fragrance. Otherwise they are the same. Well, we used the 2 oz. and not only did it harden before we got it into the mold but now it is still to “soft” to un-mold and you can see the fragrance or oils just floating in it and seeping out. Is there anything we can do to fix it? I’ve heard of rebatching but otherwise I have no clue what to do with it. Really bummed out. We were so excited to try it.
It sounds like that soap may have separated. If you made it within 24 hours, you can try the Hot Process Hero method: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/hot-process-hero-2/
Floral fragrances often accelerate. There are a few tricks to working with them so you have time for your design. This post talks more about them: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soap-behaving-badly/
You can also use fragrances that don’t accelerate. They’re great if you’re just getting started or if you have an intricate design. We have performance notes on our fragrances, just look for the ones that say “perform well with no acceleration.”
Fragrance oils: https://www.brambleberry.com/Fragrance-Oils-C161.aspx
Thank you, its not perfect but it has been saved. Really appreciate the help. Lynda
You’re welcome, happy to help.
Can I use goats milk instead of wter?
Yes, that will work in this recipe. We recommend keeping the milk cold to prevent scorching and discoloration. Learn more in this post: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/
can i use cocoa butter in this recipe instead of palm oil? if so what would the recipe change to?
Babassu oil can be used in place of palm oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Babassu-Oil–P6807.aspx
You can also add cocoa butter up to 15% to add firmness like palm oil does. Coconut oil or tallow up to 33% work as well. Read more about common oils and what properties they add to soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
This post on substituting oils has some great information too: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Hi. When you say to mix in the the colorant in step #5, do you mean the rest of the activated charcoal ( minus the 1/16 you mixed with the mica)?
No, in that step you add the titanium dioxide (colorant) and mix with a whisk. You don’t want to add any charcoal. You’ll want to add the purple and charcoal in step 4.
Do you only use 1/16 teaspoon of the charcoal? What to do with leftover?
You can save it for another recipe. Just keep it in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. It will last as long as the oil it’s mixed in: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
Once you’re ready to use, mix well to break up any clumps.
I have never made my own soap before! Your website has inspired me to try. 😀 I’ve been paying $16 a pound for soap bars and in some cases more. I do have one question. I keep seeing oils measured in .0? ounces. Is that liquid ounces or by weight ounces? X-) If it’s liquid ounces, where can I buy something to measure?
Thank you so much for the inspiration and beautiful pictures. 😀
We recommend using ounces by weight. We’ve found the most accurate method to do that is to place a container on a scale and measure each one out.
This is a good scale to use if you don’t have one on hand: https://www.brambleberry.com/Bramble-Berrys-Perfect-Scale-P3684.aspx
Thank you! 😀 I can’t wait to get started. I saw Chocolate Lip Balms with Cocoa Powder. Seems a little easier for a start. =)
Absolutely, that’s a great recipe to get your feet wet.
Chocolate Lip Balm: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/chocolate-lip-balms-with-cocoa-powder-2/
For the jasmine flowers, do they need to be infused with anything prior to using?
They don’t. All you need to do is sprinkle them on top and press them into the soap gently so they stick.
Looks beautiful! A nice simple swirl for beginners, I will be giving it a try.
Have fun Liz!
What is a good substitute for Canola oil?
Thanks!
Olive oil or rice bran oil are similar, so they make good substitutes. Remember to run the recipe through the Lye Calculator after you make changes: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Lye-Calculator.aspx
Learn more about substituting oils here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-substitute-oil-in-cold-process-recipes/
Olive oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Olive-Oil-Pure-P5246.aspx
Rice bran oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Rice-Bran-Oil-P4971.aspx
What can I use to substitute palm oil in this recipe?
Babassu oil can be used in place of palm oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Babassu-Oil–P6807.aspx
You can also add a hard oil like cocoa butter up to 15% to add firmness like palm oil does. Coconut oil or tallow up to 33% work as well. Read more about common oils and what properties they add to soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
Stupid of me to think that the recipe might include actual oils / butters instead of some commercial “quick mix” not available to me here.
I was frustrated too that the oils were not listed. 😩
Lots of lather quick mix percentages are on the brambleberry and soapqueen sites,
33% coconut oil
33% palm oil
16% canola oil
15% olive oil
3% castor oil
Thanks, Elizabeth.
Thanks for your help Elizabeth. Find the percentages for the other Quick Mixes here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/sunday-night-spotlight-quick-mixes/
I don’t understand how to use the lye calculator.
Beautiful way to make your own gifts! Look forward to trying out your products.
Enjoy Rosemary. These bars smell fantastic.
Very pretty, but I’m surprised the colors are so true with an FO that discolors. Do you think it will as it cures? My experience has been not so pleasant with an FO that discolors even just to tan. I use a lot of titanium dioxide, but the dark still seems to come through. Electric lemonade cocktail and Island escape are two favorites, but I am careful with them for this reason and past experience. Thanks!
So far these bars still look like the pictures above. They may tan in the next few weeks, but the titanium dioxide will help combat that.