Starting today, we are revisiting the basics of cold process soap with the Back to Basic series. Over the next two weeks, we will cover basic concepts and tutorials designed for the beginner in mind. If you have never made cold process soap before, now is the perfect time! The Back to Basics Soapmaking Kit includes all the ingredients you need to make all 4 projects. If you are a seasoned soaper, it’s always good for a little refresher course. For our first lesson, we are covering the most important part of soaping (other than having fun)…safety! In particular, we are chatting about lye safety, including how to safely mix and handle your lye solution. Pencils ready? Let’s get started!
In order to make soap, oils must emulsify with lye, which begins the saponification process. During this process it’s important to make safety a top priority. Sodium hydroxide lye is an inorganic compound commonly found in drain cleaners like Draino. Sodium hydroxide lye is highly caustic and has the potential to burn the skin. Like driving a car, sodium hydroxide is safe when handled properly. But because lye has the potential to be extremely dangerous, it’s important to take every safety precaution when making cold process soap.
Sodium hydroxide lye is available in various forms, such as flakes, pellets and powder. To make cold process soap, lye is introduced to a liquid like distilled water. The liquid dissolves the lye and creates a lye solution. Mixing water and lye creates an exothermic reaction that causes a dramatic temperature increase. Adding lye to room temperature water can cause the water to reach temperatures up to 200 ° F. The mixture also creates fumes, which should not be inhaled.
Yes, all this information sounds a little scary, and it’s totally normal to be nervous when first working with lye. Luckily, it’s easy to protect oneself from harm when creating lye solution. Below are my basic lye safety tips. I also recommend watching the How to Make Cold Process Soap: Lye Safety & Ingredients video below.
Wear Proper Safety Gear: When working with lye, wearing protective safety gear is a must. This includes eye goggles, gloves, long sleeves and long pants. Covering your skin helps protect it from spills or drops of lye solution. Some soapers also like to wear surgical masks to avoid breathing in any fumes.
Mix Lye in an Appropriate Place: The area in which you mix your lye solution should have good ventilation to avoid breathing in lye fumes. When weather allows, some soapers like to mix their lye solution outside to get the best ventilation possible. When indoors, I like to open a few windows or turn on a fan. In addition to ventilation, it’s important to make sure kids, pets and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Some soapers prefer to soap with a ventilator or air filter on to help filter out any fumes that happen during the mixing process.
Always Add Lye to Water (Never Water to Lye!): When mixing water and lye the first step is to measure the correct amounts into separate containers. Once you have the correct amounts for your recipe, the lye should be slowly added to the water. NEVER add water to your lye! Doing so can cause the lye to expand, or erupt, out of the container. A popular rhyme to help you remember the order is: “It’s smarter to add lye to water! Add water to lye and you may die!” It’s definitely an extreme rhyme, but it can be helpful in the beginning!
Use an Appropriate Mixing Container: It’s important to mix your lye solution in a durable and safe container. The container should be a sturdy, heat-resistant plastic or glass. I don’t recommend mixing lye solution in a metal container. This is because the lye solution gets incredibly hot. It’s also because lye and some metals produce a hazardous reaction. Sodium hydroxide and aluminum produce hydrogen gases, which can be extremely dangerous. Lye also reacts with tin. To be on the safe side, I avoid metal containers entirely. If using glass, make sure your container is extremely sturdy. I have used Pyrex containers successfully for years, but I know some soapers have had experience with these containers breaking. On occasion, I also use Easy Pour and Mixing Containers to mix my lye, as they are made out of a sturdy plastic. I recommend choosing a container that is large enough to catch any splashes as you stir. To be extra safe, mix your lye and water over a sink in case there are any spills.
Store Lye Appropriately: While waiting for the lye solution to cool to suitable soaping temperatures, make sure your container is clearly labeled “LYE” to ensure nobody touches or tampers with the solution. It’s also helpful to move it to a place where kids or pets will not touch or drink the solution. The jar of lye flakes, pellets or powder should always be kept out of reach of children, and should be properly labeled “POISON,” or “DO NOT TOUCH,” to ensure people do not tamper with the lye.
If You Get Lye on Your Skin: According the sodium hydroxide MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), if your skin comes in contact with lye, remove any contaminated clothing. Flush immediately with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Seek medical attention. If it comes in contact with eyes, flush immediately with water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention. If inhaled, move to fresh air.
Many soapers keep vinegar on hand, believing it neutralizes lye burns. There is some controversy in the soapmaking community about washing lye burns with vinegar rather than water. Adding vinegar (an acid) to lye (a base) creates a chemical reaction that releases more heat. Additionally, the act of putting vinegar on a lye burn hurts. Just use water as the MSDS sheet suggests.
Although vinegar should not be used to treat lye burns on skin, it can be used as precaution during the cleanup process. A quick wipe of your workspace with a vinegar-soaked rag will neutralize any lye dust that may have gotten on the surface.
Now that you have safely mixed your lye solution, it’s time to make cold process soap. But safety doesn’t stop here! During the entire soap making process, it’s important to wear your safety gear which includes goggles, long sleeves and pants, and gloves. This is because the lye solution still has the potential to irritate the skin once mixed with soaping oils.
Once you pour the lye solution into the oils and begin to emulsify, the saponification process begins. For an in-depth explanation of what saponification means, check out this blog post and Soap Queen TV video. As the saponification process develops, the lye solution becomes less caustic. Raw soap batter is not as dangerous as pure lye water, but it can still irritate the skin. Wearing saftey gear while soaping helps avoid any contact with the soap batter. If soap batter touches the skin, you may not notice until several minutes later when your skin begins to tingle and burn. Quickly wash away any soap batter on the skin with water and a gentle soap. Once saponification is complete, all lye molecules have been transformed into soap and will not harm the skin.
The soap above has reached a thin trace. If you were to get the mixture on your skin, wash it off immediately under cool water for several minutes until the itching or burning subsides.
After you’re done soaping, it’s time to wash your dishes. Because the soap will still irritate the skin, leave your gloves on while washing any soaping dishes. I recommend wiping out any excess soap with a paper towel, then washing your dishes in the sink with hot water and grease-cutting soap like Dawn. If you want to avoid washing oils down the sink, you may prefer the “garbage bag clean up method.” Read about each clean up method in the Soapy Session Clean Up Guide.
Making cold process soap is extremely rewarding and fun. During my entire “soaping lifetime,” I have never experienced a serious lye burn. I have experienced both lye water and soap batter on my skin, but was able to wash it off right away with no serious harm done. The worst injury I ever experienced while soaping was when I got fresh soap in a cut on my hand…ouch! I attribute my soaping good fortune to always taking the extra steps to ensure safety for myself and people around me. Much like wearing a seat belt when driving a car, proper safety precautions are the first step in creating homemade soap. What steps do you take to ensure you are soaping safely? I would love to hear your input!
Be sure to check back tomorrow for our first cold process recipe, a Simple & Gentle Cold Process recipe. It’s the perfect soap for somebody who has never tried cold process soaping before.
I’ve noticed that most of the soaping videos on YouTube show the soaper with short gloves and bare arms. I posted a reminder on a forum about protecting skin from lye burns, and I was surprised to learn that many soapers feel that they don’t need to cover up because a lye splash usually doesn’t give them a serious burn and they are fine to interrupt their soap making to wash it off. Some complain that long sleeves sometimes dip in lye water or raw batter and hold the lye against their skin, so it’s better to have bare arms. I’m sorry to hear that so many prefer to ignore safety because of the examples they see on YouTube. For those of us who do want to best protect our arms, do your know of nitrile sleeves we could use? Uline has long sleeved nitrile gloves, but they are a bit baggy.
We’ve had good luck with gloves used for dish washing. You can find those in the grocery store cleaning aisle. They usually go up the arm pretty far and protect from any lye or fresh soap splashes.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m much more comfortable working with melt and pour, call it paranoia but I don’t want to chance anything. Even so, I part of me will always want to try it even though I probably never will. Just based on the fact that i feel like CP soapers are so much more valued/respected in the soaping community.
You can definitely do some amazing things with melt and pour soap! We always love to see the beautiful creations from melt and pour soapmakers. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I used a new ceramic coated crock pot to make soap one time several years ago. I am wondering if I am no longer using it for soap, can I use it for food or do I need to throw it out.
Will the lye seep in the coating or would it have all been saponified?
Because it was just one batch and it was several years ago, I think that should be fine! You may want to give it a couple thorough washes before trying it. You may also want to test some food in there just to make sure it doesn’t smell or taste like fragrance. You can also use Crock-Pot liners. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi,
New to soap making. I bought a bunch of items and a kit off the Bramble Berry site to get me started on making soap. The more I try to over prep and read about working with Lye the more I get nervous. It might seem like this is a silly question…. I live in a small apartment and there are sprinklers in every room and have a few smoke detectors. Just being overly cautious here but wondering if when the reaction of water and Lye heats up and with the fumes and all is there anyway this could set off my sprinkler or smoke detector?
I don’t think the fumes are strong enough to set off a sprinkler or smoke detector! They’re pretty small. Just make sure to have some good ventilation and you’ll be just fine. 🙂
You can see those fumes here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noSiPLKR8qM
This post has more tips if you’re worried about working with lye: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/afraid-of-using-sodium-hyroxide-lye/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m about to make some personal laundry soap with a lye heavy CP soap that I made. (It PH tested 14.) I’m wondering that if I use my kitchen cheese grater to grate the soap, if I can use it for food again if I wash it when I’m done. Thanks!
I wouldn’t recommend using the grater for food again. The soap can get stuck in the grater, even with thorough washing. That means you may accidentally ingest it. It’s best to use one set of tools for soaping and one set of tools for food. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Since lye reacts with aluminum is it safe to use colorants that contain aluminum hydroxide in CP soap?
Aluminum hydroxide is a different form of aluminum, so it is safe to use in cold process soap in small amounts! The neon colorants that contain it work really well. 🙂
We used Fizzy Lemonade (which contains aluminum hydroxide) in this tutorial: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/create-circling-taiwan-swirl-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m sure I’m just missing information you’ve already posted…but I believe my lye is expired and my soap is still saponifying, but not all the way. Is it safe to use soft/squishy soap?
To be extra sure, I would recommend pH testing the soap. Find out how to do that here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/
If the soap is at pH 9-10, it should be just fine to use! You can rebatch it with some firmer soap to help it firm up as well. 🙂
Learn more about rebatching here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/soap-queen-tv-presents-how-to-make-rebatch-soap-2/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I hope someone can answer. I had finished my project (cold process), and I was taking my gloves off, and I think some batter got in my skin. Am I in danger? I took a loooong shower, but that is it. I feel is itching, however I tend to be kind of paranoid on these things lol. When is it safe to handle this without gloves? I see so many people after pouring the lye in the oils taking them off.
Thank you 🙂
You should be just fine! When you spill fresh soap on yourself, we recommend wiping it off and running your arm under water for 15 minutes. That will get any traces of lye off. You may feel some itching or burning, but that will go away soon. Also, we recommend wearing gloves anytime you’re touching the soap within 2 days. During that time it is still saponifying and the lye is active. After that, you can touch the soap without gloves. 🙂
This post has more on working with lye: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/afraid-of-using-sodium-hyroxide-lye/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m really worried about using my electric hand beaters because they are made of chrome plated metal, and I’ve heard some say that lye *may* react to chrome and cause harm while others say it is fine. I can’t get a stick blender now, but I’ve heard beaters and food processors are alternatives in Cold Process soap making. Should I avoid using the beaters?
And another thing – if the beaters aren’t safe for lye, what do I do then? Is it impossible to protect the beaters in any way and still use them safely, or does that sound ridiculous and dangerous? Thanks!
Hi Grace!
I believe that lye can strip the chrome coating on the hand blender, causing it to come off in your soap. I would recommend instead using a stick blender. Stick blenders are often stainless steel and emulsify the soap quickly. Hand blenders usually take at least two hours to emulsify the soap. Stick blenders work faster and you don’t have to worry about the lye stripping the coating. You can find them online, at a kitchen supply store or a department store like Target. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
You can always look in secondhand stores! 🙂
I have been making MP for years, but would like to get into CP. I have three dogs, a cat, and a bird and am worried about lye fumes. I will be working in my kitchen and I can shoo the dogs out, the cat is in the basement, and the bird is in a guest room. How far away do they need to be from my soaping area? Thank you!
Hi Terri!
As long as the pets are out of your soaping space they should be fine! The lye fumes are fairly concentrated. They will be strongest when you add the lye to the water, then dissipate quite a bit as they cool. If your pets aren’t near the fumes they should be safe. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Today was my first time making soap, and I was under the strange impression that as soon as oils and lye water are mixed, the lye is neutralized. I now know that isn’t true as one I had my trace, I had some soap batter on my hand and scratched my arm. I felt itching and burning but ignored it. After I finished my soap, I rinsed off my arm and saw a missing patch of hair where I scratched. I took a 10 minute shower, keeping the affected arm under running water the whole time. Thanks for the informative post. I’m not as concerned about the batter getting on me. For a minute I was worried I should call poison control! I now know not to touch any soap batter. Ever.
You’re welcome Tia! Soap batter definitely doesn’t feel pleasant, but it’s not as scary as you think. Gloves and long sleeves will protect you from most spills. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi, I have been soaping about 2 years now but I am still always worried about using lye and I thought it might be good to put some of my fears to rest. First of all, I am just wondering if you could tell me how dangerous it is to touch the dry lye flakes or granules? I have at times found a stray grain while cleaning my table surface after soaping (even though I put down newspaper) and freaked out that there could be more grains floating around, causing me to wonder how crazy I should go to ensure I don’t drop a single grain when measuring out my lye. Also, I have not always cut my soap wearing gloves (I usually do this about 4 or 5 days after making the soap) and I have occasionally noticed my skin does get a little irritated afterwards. I was under the impression I did not need to use gloves after the first couple of days – is this true or should i be using gloves even when cutting the soap? Finally, what do you suggest for storing lye and measuring it out in terms of types of containers and best ways to safely measure it out? I get so nervous about using lye, but I don’t want it to ruin soaping for me as I have loved learning this skill!
Hi Krystyna!
Dry lye flakes haven’t been activated yet with water, so they won’t irritate the skin as quickly as lye mixed with water or fresh soap. However, they aren’t safe to touch! If you find a spilled lye flake on your counter, wipe it away and make sure you’re wearing gloves. Then, clean the area with lots of water. You can also use a little vinegar to clean the surface, it helps neutralize lye.
Most of saponification happens in the first two days. After that time, most of the lye has been used up by the oil and isn’t present in the bars anymore. If your soap is at least 3 days old, you can cut it without gloves! If it’s a bit earlier than that, gloves are a good idea to be extra safe.
We like to store lye in the container it comes in, which is a sturdy plastic container. Then, you can measure it out in a heat-safe plastic container or glass container. Those both work well. 🙂
This post has more great tips on working with lye: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/afraid-of-using-sodium-hyroxide-lye/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! I have a liquid NaOH, should i pour this directly to the oil? And i also planned to add 80ml of guava extract to my soap, when will i add it? THANKS!
Hi Louise!
It depends on how concentrated the solution is. For instance, some liquid lye is 1:1 lye and water. So, you’ll need to figure out how much lye and extra distilled water to add to get to the correct amounts. If it doesn’t have the concentration of lye, I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to find out more!
Also, you can add that extract at trace. We like to use about 1 teaspoon per pound of soap. 🙂
Read more about extracts and how to use them here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotligh-extracts/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
While making my very first batch of cp soap, I was going to use an (older) electric hand mixer and as soon as I put it in the lye/fat mixture I noticed it was reacting and immediately took it out. I guess older hand mixers were made with aluminum. Yikes! So, since there was a reaction, did I ruin the batch? I don’t want to cause chem burns on my family and myself once we try them out. Tia!
Oh no, I’m sorry about that Nichole! About how long was that mixer in the soap? Do you notice the batch doing anything odd?
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I put it in the mix, and I was just about to burp the mixer when I noticed the bubbles coming off of the metal. I got it out quickly. I’m guessing maybe 5 seconds at the most in the mixture. (Being my first time making soap I was jumpy and paranoid lol). I didn’t notice anything weird, it took 25 min to get light trace. And it’s been 49 hours since I made the batch and they are firm-ish but a tad sticky on top. I’m able to unmold them but they are really soft. I did use a lot of scent though .
Usually with aluminum molds, we tell people to throw that soap out just to be safe. Because the blender was only in there a short time, I would recommend pH testing the soap after about 5 days. If it’s around 9-10 and you don’t notice anything odd with the bars, I think they’re safe to use! Just continue to watch them as they cure for 4-6 weeks to see if you notice anything. 🙂
Learn how to pH test soap here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/troubleshooting-lye-heavy-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you! I just ordered some on Amazon 🙂
You’re welcome! 🙂
What are the chemical various released from Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) and Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) when in contact with water please?
Hi Fred!
When the lye is added to water, it does emit sodium hydroxide fumes. These can be irritating and cause coughing. We recommend soaping in a really well ventilated area. You can also wear a dust/surgical mask if you like. That will protect you from the lye fumes. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hello!
Just finished making a batch of soap.
Here’s the problem:
#1: my lye didn’t heat up after mixed into the water. How long for lye water to heat up? It only reached 75 degrees after being intitially added to the distilled water. Can’t find any answers about this on the net. After researching for the answer I’m now wondering if I didn’t let it sit long enough to heat up?
Also;
#2: I went ahead & mixed the lye solution & lard together leaving the lard at 119 degrees to compensate for the lye mixture being only 75 degrees.
It has been a week and my soap has not solidified. It’s very stiff but still “soft”. Will it “cure” over time?
My recipe is as follows:
38oz lard
1oz cocoa butter
1oz vitamin E oil
5.4 oz of lye
& 13.5 oz distilled water
HI Traci!
It sounds like the lye may be expired. Expired lye doesn’t get as hot and may not saponify the recipe fully, making it softer. You can read more about that here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/expired-lye/
The soap may never fully set up because of the expired lye. Rebatch may be an option! I would recommend mixing the soap with twice as much soap that’s a harder recipe. The soap may never be very firm, but the harder recipe can make it a bit more balanced. 🙂
Read more about rebatching soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/soap-queen-tv-presents-how-to-make-rebatch-soap-2/
Our Basic Rebatch is a nice firm recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Grated-Rebatch-Soap-Base-Basic-P4540.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
hello again, one more question ; ) please…
I have a bottle of lye that has the following ingredients: 95% sodium hydroxide, 5% sodium carbonate.
Can I use this to make soap?
Hi Rosy!
Sodium carbonate is sometimes used as a replacement for sodium hydroxide lye in food production (like bagels), and is sometimes referred to as “washing soda” or “soda ash.” It is not as “strong,” as sodium hydroxide, and in general I recommend using lye that is comprised of only sodium hydroxide lye to have the most consistent soaping results. If you’d like to give this lye a try, I would recommend making a small test batch first. It won’t cause any extreme negative reactions, but it may result in a soap with a larger superfat, as the lye is not as “strong,” and won’t convert as much oils into soap. Long story short is yes you can give it a try, but I would recommend testing it first! 🙂 I hope this helps!
-Amanda with Bramble Berry
thank you Amanda !!
…the lye that I’ve been purchasing in the past through amazon is 4 times more expensive than the one that I can get locally (the 95% sodium hydroxide one). So I think it’s worth to give it a shot by making a small batch as you suggest. I’m expecting to get a superfatted bar of soap if I everything works out fine.
thanks again for your response !!
Hey! I have been reading/ watching soap queen and doing all kinds of melt and pour projects! Ive also done candles and lotion! 🙂 I feel like I am finally ready to make cp soap but I live in a somewhat small place and I have to cats.. would putting them in a room, opening up a window, and having a fan help?? Or is it too dangerous? And also how would you properly clean your lye containers and kitchen sink!? Help!
-Sabrina!
Two cats* oops I am sorry !
Hi Sabrina!
Making cold process soap is so fun! I think you’ll really enjoy it. 🙂
When you’re working with lye, you’ll want to do it in a place with good ventilation. I also live in a fairly small apartment, so I make soap in my kitchen with the windows open. If you have a fan you can definitely use it to help circulate the air. To keep my cat safe, I keep her in a separate room with the door closed. That way there’s no chance pets will come in contact with the lye!
Also, this post talks about how to clean up after a soapy session: https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/clean-soapy-session/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you sooooo much for this reply! You are amazing! I shall do that when I make soap I just wanted to make sure that it was okay to work with lye in an apartment! 🙂 again thanks so much!!! ♡♡♡♡♡
You’re welcome Sabrina! Have fun and let us know how it goes. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble berry
I am preparing to make my first batch of CP soap and am very excited at the prospect. In reading the article regarding lye safety I saw the reference to the MSDS sheet. When one purchases sodium hydroxide lye from Brambleberry is a copy of the MSDS sheet for theproduct sent with the order?
Hi Lisa!
The MSDS sheet is available for download on the product page! To the right of the photo, there’s a button that says “MSDS.” That will download and you can open it and save for later use.
Sodium Hydroxide Lye: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sodium-Hydroxide-Lye-P3037.aspx
Have fun making your first batch of soap! That’s so exciting. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. We’re happy to help. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hello there, I have spilled lye all over my hardwood floors and I have no idea how to clean it up. Any ideas??
Lydia
Hi Lydia!
Oh no, I am sorry about that!
Before any clean up, make sure to put on gloves, goggles, long sleeve pants and a shirt and shoes. That will protect you from any contact with skin. Then, sweep up all the lye. I would recommend going over your floors several time to make sure you have all the pieces of lye cleaned up. Then, go over the floors several times with warm water and floor cleaner. That will help pick up any leftover pieces. I would recommend doing it at least twice just in case.
For your equipment (broom, mop, bucket), make sure to clean those thoroughly afterward, as they may have little bits of lye stuck in them.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I am quite new to soaping this year. Began as a matter of curiosity which has turned into an enjoyable hobby. I’ve been gifting my soaps to family/friends, and the response to the soaps have been enthusiastic.
Many people who ask about the process recoil about the lye. I explain to them the saponification process. I also explain that you get NO SOAP (handmade or otherwise) without this process.
I mix my lye in a stainless steel asparagus cooking pot. If I want to ice it down, the SS makes a great conductor when placed in an ice bath. The pot is tall and deep with secure handles which ensures no sloshing transporting it from outside to inside or when mixing it up. I mix the lye to water with a large stainless steel whisk. I don’t have any concerns about reusing these items–as stainless steel has proved impervious to any ill effects. The activated lye does etch glass, hard plastics and ceramic, and I would not feel comfortable using any of these items sans soaping for consumed foods over concerns about soap in the micro etching.
Safety note: Not sure if others have encountered this, but my lye comes in a plastic bottle. When transferring lye from the bottle to another plastic container to measure, there was static which caused the small lye granules to jump about–out and about–on my scale, my counter, the floor. Likely a winter time issue. It was like Mexican jumping beans! I now use either a SS or glass receptacle to receive the lye to avoid this unwanted problem.
Appreciate the great resources at this website!
Thanks so much for the great tips Leisa! We like to use glass containers to mix our lye. We have several glass containers in our lab that we have been using for a couple years now. Some are used multiple times a day, and we haven’t noticed any etching or breaking. However, stainless steel containers work well too! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Recently I’ve purchased new lye, which seemed chemically the same as the old brand. However, now I get hard crust on the bottom of the bowl and /or chunks of lye in the bottom of my lye water. I do my best to crush them with a spoon and then dissolve, but it’s not easy. How do I get rid of these hard bits of lye? Do you think this is because I switched from beads of lye to powdered lye?
Hi Elena!
I’m wondering if that powdered lye may be clumping up as it’s being poured into the container, causing those chunks. I would recommend pouring the lye in a little bit at a time, then stirring until it dissolves between each addition (like you would for milk). That may help prevent any chunks of lye. 🙂
You can see that process for milk here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/how-to-add-lye-to-milk-for-cold-process-soap/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi! I’ve been reading your blog and watching your videos for the past months as I’m starting to try soaping as a hobby. 2 days ago I made my first batch of carrot& cucumber soap using sunflowerseed and olive oils. The thing is, i noticed late that the lye was only 90% and 10% was sodium carbonate. Did i just waste my soap? It has settled well and is now a bit hard for curing. I’m just wondering if the 10% will be bad for my soap. 🙁
Hi Gelene!
I believe I got this question answered on our Facebook page! I’ll paste it down below just in case. 🙂
Typically, our lye is 97% pure and doesn’t have any other additives. I’m not entirely sure if the 10% sodium carbonate will affect the soap in any way.
I would recommend waiting about 5 days, then pH testing the soap. Learn how to pH test soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/test-ph-red-cabbage/
You want the soap to be around 9-10. If it’s at that level and looks fine, you can definitely use it! If it’s higher than that, it makes great laundry soap. 🙂
Three DIY Laundry Soap Recipes: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/home-crafts/three-diy-laundry-soap-recipes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can i use ordinary water (water suppied on our home) ?, or distiled water is a must?
Hi there!
We definitely recommend distilled water. Tap water can have little bits of metal or microbes, which can do weird things in your soap. Distilled water will ensure your soaping goes smoothly! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Once the lye is mixed into the water and begins to cool, does it still release fumes? We have a bird and I am overly cautious with him…can I mix the lye in the garage or basement and bring it (carefully) back to the kitchen when I need it? Harder to move him…
Hi DeAnn!
Once the lye is fully mixed into the water and begins to cool, it typically stops emitting as many fumes. I think if you let that lye and water cool in the garage away from your bird, it should be relatively fume-free when you’re ready to use it to make soap. However, you may want to keep the bird in another room while you’re soaping just in case though. Most animals are sensitive to the fumes it may be irritating for them. It’s best to be safe when using lye around your beloved feathered friends!
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi All
New to soaping and had just made my first batch of 100% olive oil soap following a friends recipe. Unfortunately it hasn’t set yet, 2 weeks, as I have now found I did not add the correct amount of NaCH to the distilled water. Will it set eventually? Will it be usable? is there anything to do to rescue the soap? Thanks for any constructive comments.
Hey Allison!
Oh no, I’m sorry about that! I have definitely done that before. 🙂
Soap without enough lye will remain quite soft, and may never fully set up. However, I can tell you olive oil soap is very soft, and can take 6 months to a year of curing to get nice and firm. If you were only missing a bit of lye, the soap may just need longer to cure. Can you tell me how much oil, lye and water you added? Thank you!
Read more about olive oil soap here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/olive-oil/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I have some questions. First I purchased a cold process kit sometime last year, around April I think. How long can I use the materials to make soap? I wasn’t sure if anything had a shelf life.
Second, I know not to breath in the lye and water fumes, but is it just because it is irritating, or is it poisonous? I am wanting to make my first batch, but the lye is holding me back. I guess I am wondering if I should consider it like bleach, harmful and poinsonous if swallowed and irritating, but the fumes are not going to kill me or get into my hair and clothes and harm my very small kids. I have this fear that the fumes or the lye will get on me and transfer to my kids and hurt them! We all use the same bath facilities , so even bathing afterward makes me think some will remain in the tub and harm them! I know I am probably being over cautious, but if I know these answers then maybe I can get over my fears!
Hi Michelle!
The oils in the cold process kit do have a shelf life! If you use oils that are expired, they can cause oil rancidity in your soap (also known as Dreaded Orange Spots). I would recommend checking out this blog post (http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/) to see the oil shelf lives and use the kit as soon as possible. That way you have nice fresh soap. 🙂
You can read more about Dreaded Orange Spots here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/dreaded-orange-spots/
When it comes to working with lye, it is important to follow all the correct safety measures. However, as long as those are followed, lye is safe to use in your soap!
Lye fumes are similar to bleach – irritating if they are breathed in. We recommend working in a well-ventilated area to help those fumes go away. You can also wear a mask to help prevent any irritation. Also, lye fumes do dissipate in the air, they don’t stick around! It’s a good idea to have kids and pets out of the room when you’re working with lye, but they can safely use that room after you’re finished and that soap is out of reach. 🙂
Working with lye can definitely be intimidating. I remember the first time I used it I was so nervous! Just make sure to do your research and follow all the safety precautions and you’ll be just fine Michelle!
Learn more about working with lye here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR6ttCSrLJI
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you! I am so ready to start now. This was just the information I needed to up my confidence! One thing though. One of the videos shows pouring the lye solution into the oils. Does it have to be that way or can I pour the oils into the lye? I was just thinking that cleaning up the lye bowl would be less intimidating by pouring the oils into the lye solution and using the garbage bag method and cleaning it out when it is more “soap”. I know it matters when mixing with water initially, Lye into water, but I wasn’t sure if it matter when mixing with the oils. Thank you!
You’re welcome, that’s so exciting! Soaping is a blast. 🙂
I would definitely recommend pouring your lye water into your oils. Pouring your oils in can cause that lye water to splash out of the bowl. Instead, you want to pour your lye water very slowly into the oils, preventing any splashing.
Once the lye water is poured, set it off to the side. When you’re washing dishes, rinse the lye bowl out with water and wash with dish soap like normal. Just remember to keep your gloves and goggles on through the entire process. With the rest of the dishes, you can do the garbage bag method. 🙂
Soapy Session Clean Up Guide: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/clean-soapy-session/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Is it safe to reheat lye water in the microwave? The lye water that I mixed cooled down to 85 Degrees. Is there an adverse effect when mixing lye water and oils if both are at 85 degrees? Thanks for you advice.
Hi Lisa!
We definitely don’t recommend heating that lye in the microwave. It can cause irritating fumes, and small particles of it may get in the microwave. Instead, we recommend heating it in a hot water bath. That prevents those fumes and helps warm the lye slightly.
If your lye is a bit cool, it can harden some of the solid oils in the batch before everything is fully emulsified. This is called “false trace.” Read more about it here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/trace/
To prevent that, we recommend having the lye and oils around 100-130F. What I like to do is mix my lye, then prep my oils, colors and fragrance. By the time I’m finished with that, the lye is usually around 130F. If it’s still a bit hot, you can wait 5 minutes and check the temperature again. The great thing about oils is if they cool down, you can pop them in the microwave on 30 second bursts until they’re warm again. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’m curious about the containers used in the lye/soaping process. If I use a glass measuring cup for my lye/water mixture can I never use this measuring cup in my kitchen again? What about the bowl I use to mix the oils with the lye/water mixture? What about any of the utensils? Once they touch the soaping process are they then designated solely for that purpose?
Thanks for all the great info!
Hi Carolyn!
We recommend having designated equipment just for soaping. Over time, the tools you use can get tiny scratches in them from normal wear and tear. Lye and other ingredients like fragrance oil can get caught in those scratches, even with the best washing. Having separate equipment for your soaping prevents you from accidentally ingesting any of those ingredients. We definitely recommend it! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Great article! ALL soapers need to read this, including experienced soapers.
I have been soaping for 5 years and had my first lye burn this weekend. Not sure how, but I got some batter on my chin… either from my glove or from banging the mold on the counter to release air bubbles. Like it says above, I didn’t notice at first because the soap was at a good trace, so the lye had already started reacting with the oils. But I still have a small blister in that spot. Even with all the safety measures: gloves, goggles, etc., accidents can still happen. Knowing what to do when it does is your best defense. Thanks BB for keeping us all safe!
You’re welcome, so glad you enjoy the post Janelle! Glad you’re OK. 🙂
You are correct – even when you’re fully suited up, you can still have some lye contact. I always seem to smudge a bit on my face, and it doesn’t feel pleasant! It’s great to have the information on how to rinse that spot.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Today I made my first batch of cold process soap, and while I suited up for safety, I didn’t notice that I had gotten a bit of batter on my gloves and I touched my forehead for just a second and suddenly I felt burning 🙁 it didn’t hurt that bad at all, but as they say, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger! Or in my case, smarter lol.
Thanks for your awesome post, had fun reading it after my little burn lol.
Hi Nataku!
I have definitely done that before! It’s amazing how everything starts itching once you have soap all over your hands. Now you’re definitely prepared for next time though! So glad you like the post. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Household vinegar is 5% acid, 95% water. The acid/base reaction definitely produces heat but since household vinegar is 95% water, the water absorbs the excess heat so you can’t get burned by that reaction. The acid neutralizes the lye while the water keeps your skin cool and helps to soothe the lye burn. Household vinegar is definitely better than plain water but use plain water if that’s all you have.
Hi Chuck!
Thanks so much for your feedback! According to our Material Safety Data Sheet, you should wash the affected area with water for at least 15 minutes. That’s what we recommend doing in case the lye comes in contact with your skin.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you for walking us through such important information, the basics !! Great reminder for someone like me who starts to get a little overconfident and careless around lye.
I’ve been soaping for 5 months and during this time I’d never had any issue with lye… until now. I purchased a couple of pounds in a local store where the attendant couldn’t tell for sure how pure the Sodium Hydroxide was. I was set to try it on a small batch but was unconsciously procrastinating because I didn’t want to spoil a good batch of oils with lye that could be full of additives.
I finally set my mind to use this lye but found out that it was a little damp because I left it in the plastic bag that it came in. Question is, can I still use this? And if the answer is no, what would be the best way to dispose of it? Thank you again for all of your invaluable advice !!
Hi Rosy!
You’re welcome! So glad you found the post helpful. 🙂
I would not recommend using that lye. When lye is exposed to water, it will not be as potent in your soap recipe. That means the oils and lye may never fully saponify.
The best place to store your lye is a cool, dry place in an airtight container. That will keep it fresh and working well in your soap. 🙂
To dispose of the lye, mix it with water and stir until it’s clear. Then, pour that lye down your drain. Most products that unclog drains actually contain lye! If your pipes or old or you have a septic tank, you can contact your local waste disposal service to find out more.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
then it’s hasta la vista, sosa !! Thanks again Kelsey for all of your help… I’ll make sure to store the lye better the next time ; )
You’re welcome Rosy! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
It never hurts to be reminded of the basics, especially something so important as lye safety! Thanks for the reminders 🙂
You’re welcome, so glad you enjoy the post! 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Great info! It’s always good to review the basics to be sure you know what you think you know! I soap in my kitchen, so I always mix my lye solution under the exhaust hood of my cooktop to avoid fumes.
So glad you like the post Michael! I’m really enjoying the review, it’s always a good idea to go over the safety precautions regularly. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry