Yesterday, I taught two back-to-back Advanced Lotionmaking classes. Each class was only 60 minutes and I covered types of emulsions and the HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) theory around lotion design. I spoke for exactly 16 minutes. And then? It was a free for all! I broke the class into five teams to make 5 different recipes. The teams made:
1. Classic Emulsifying Wax recipe
4. Xantham Gum/Beeswax Emulsifier Combo
5. BTMS-50 as the Emulsifying Agent
I have to give the Xantham Gum/Beeswax group in both classes huge props (yes, that gloppy mess is Xantham Gum in the photo above). It is a common urban myth that Xantham Gum/Beeswax emulsifies into something resembling lotion. That is a lie. It looks more like snot and acts similarly. It even dries in sheets on your skin. You can peel it off. It is that strange and weird. The Xantham Gum/Beeswax groups in both classes really gave it their all working with this strange emulsifying system. They both heated up their stick blenders so much that we were worried that they were going to burn out!
Overall, while I did not take a vote, judging from the lotion learners coming up to me after the class, the BTMS-50 emulsifier blend is the clear and definite winner of the 5 lotions. You can mix BTMS-50 with Emulsifying Wax NF in regular lotions or just use it alone as the emulsifying agent.
Why BTMS-50 over straight Emulsifying Wax? Because BTMS-50 has a conditioning agent added to it that gives it just that extra silky, powdery feel on the skin. It’s just as easy to work with as Emulfisying Wax NF and it has just that extra touch of smoothness that makes it feel expensive, classic and sophisticated. By the way, BTMS-50 can be used in hair conditioners as well. It’s an easy, cost effective conditioner base. The recipe is here.
An even bigger surprise? I knew the Mango Peach Salsafragrance would be a huge crowd pleaser (even Nate in the restaurant loved it when I brought him a freshly-made dollop of the lotion) but who knew that Fresh Zucchini Flower would be such a hit? It was the perfect light, fresh, airy fragrance without being overpowering and it was like a sneak-attack of “Hey! I love that! What fragrance is that!?”
Both classes were super troopers with the hands-on portion and it was one of the most fun classes I’ve ever taught, thanks to the awesome helpers the Soap Guild sent to be hands-on, and the exhuberant spirit of the attendees.
Could BTMS-25 be used in place of BTMS-50? Such as in this recipe and the hair conditioner recipe, or will adjustments need to be made?
Good morning, Angel!
BTMS-25 contains 25% less of the active ingredient in BTMS then the BTMS-50 does and we have found that it doesn’t emulsify as well as BTMS-50.
-Becky with Bramble Berry
I want to make a lotion using all natural ingredients. I have eczema and am trying to formulate something specific for my sensitive skin with a natural emulsifier. Do you have any suggestions? Please let me know,I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance
Unfortunately, there is no such thing as an all natural emulsifier (that works). We have tested a ton of them and couldn’t find one that actually worked. If you want to make it all natural, I would go with a body butter made with natural oils and butters.
Here’s a link to our whipped shea butter that is super popular. Just replace the fragrance oil with an essential oil to make it all natural http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/easy-whipped-shea-butter-2/
Courtney from Bramble Berry
Selena,
BTMS-50 is not considered an all natural emulsifier and so does not have an organic version.
Sorry to disappoint. I love the BTMS-50 as an emulsifier and I hope you get a chance to try it, organic or not.
=)
I look forward to trying this. Is there an organic version that you sell as well?
The class you did was GREAT. So much good information and it was great to actually see and feel the different emulsifiers. You rock girl!!
Marie Gale
I actually got my BTMS 50, 2 weeks ago,I ordered from you guys to make hair conditioner,I will make both now!!Thanks for the recipe!
Thanks Anne-Marie–I can’t wait to try this!
This looks so fun. I wish I had been there. I have been slowly messing around with making lotions so this would have been a great class to be able to go to.
dag gum!
i just made another BB order and it is on it’s happy way to me.
just got the cetaryl alcohol just for this purpose…..
a good reason to make another order!!!! 🙂 i really should have been there….maybe next time!
Bath Cake – Tell me more about your recipe – maybe we can trouble shoot it for you =)
Dalene, I just do the BTMS-50 in place of the E-Wax but many people do a mixture of E-Wax and BTMS-50 in varying ratios.
Here’s the recipe we did in class
Water 75% = 18.75 oz. = 531 grams
BTMS-50 5% = 1.25 oz. = 35.4 grams
Stearic Acid 4% = 1.0 oz. = 28.32 grams
Preservative 1% = .25 oz. = 7.08 grams
Fresh Zucchini Flower fragrance .05% = .125 oz. = 3.54 grams
Avocado oil 4% = 1.0 oz. = 28.32 grams
Shea Butter 5 % = 1.25 oz. = 35.4 grams
Sweet Almond Oil 7% = 1.75 oz. = 49.56 grams (HLB 7.0)
How many ounces of lotion does this make?
This recipe makes about 25 ounces of lotion.
Courtney from Brambleberry
I would love to try this BTMS-50. Do you simply substitute it for the emulsifying wax in a regular emulsifying wax recipe (I’ve been using this one) or do you have a special recipe you use?
Haven’t tried my hand at real lotions yet – just a few small batch trials that I’m not sure were lotion but will have to order some BTMS-50 and give it a try!
How exciting! I haven’t tried making lotions yet– trying to perfect my soap recipes!
I have a lotion recipe I love and have used now for a number of years. I tried the BTMS-50 for all the reasons you mentioned here in it and it separated. I have an unopened pound of it so I’m going to try your conditioner recipe instead with it. I bought more “plain old” ewax for my lotions (butters, really) though.
~Erin
I miss my old lotion recipe – I wish I could find it again! Reading this makes me want to make lotion *RIGHT* now. (A bit of a challenge, since other than FO I have no ingredients for it!) What fun!