When planning a cold process soap design, fragrance oil selection plays a huge role. Some fragrance oils discolor brown (learn more about that here), making bright colors difficult. Other fragrance oils accelerate trace, which can make complicated designs like a Column Pour or a Peacock Swirl tricky to execute. Floral fragrances are known for their tendency to accelerate trace, but that doesn’t mean beautiful soap can’t be created with them! It just means you need to choose an appropriate design, and be ready to work fast. Setting up your soaping workspace beforehand helps immensely!
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Melt & Pour Bath Crayons
For most kids, bath time actually means play time! From rubber duckies to mermaids, the bath is a fun place to let kids’ imagination run wild. These Melt and Pour Bath Crayons give kiddos another way to get creative in the tub. Made with melt and pour soap and LabColors, these crayons are perfect for doodling in the shower and tub. They even work great on paper!
This tutorial creates three sets of six colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple. Each tube uses undiluted LabColor to give intense color, so no need to dilute! A simple and quick project, these crayons wash away easily from the tub. To be on the safe side, test the soap crayons in a discrete area on your tub before unleashing your child’s creativity.
Queen of Hearts Cold Process
Inspired by the regal character from Alice in Wonderland, this Queen of Hearts Cold Process soap is full of eye-catching contrast. Created with melt and pour embeds, a cold process base and soap frosting, this sophisticated soap will make a fantastic Valentine’s gift (it will be here sooner than you think!). LoveSpell and Baby Rose fragrance oils create a rosy, warm and slightly juicy scent blend that is wonderfully feminine.
All About the Trace
There are a lot of terms thrown around when you’re learning how to make soap. The most tricky of them for a newbie to learn and recognize is ‘trace.’ All the books, blogs and videos say to stop stick blending when you’ve hit ‘trace’ and then, more confusingly, it may have been referred to as thin, medium or thick trace. What is trace? Simply put, trace is a point in the soap making process when oils and lye water have emulsified. Once the soap has reached thin trace, it will continue to thicken over time.
Mixing lye water and oils together starts the saponification process. Saponification occurs once the oil and lye molecules create new soap molecules. If you are a visual learner, this Soap Queen TV episode explains the saponification process visually. And for even more information, in Erica Pences’s online classes (here and here) she delves deep into trace and the uses of different types of trace. Once the lye and oils are saponified and the two will not separate, the soap has reached trace!
Immediately upon pouring lye water into oils, the mixture will begin to turn slightly cloudy and milky. With a few pulses and stirs of the stick blender, the entire mixture will turn a creamy consistency. This process happens fairly quickly. Before the age of stick blenders, it could take hours for soap to reach trace! In the photos below, you can see the lye water and oils are beginning to emulsify. Trace has not been achieved.
Notice the streaks of oil in the photos below? These mixtures have not reached trace, because they are not thoroughly mixed. Some of the oils have not yet started saponification, and the mixture is not completely emulsified. These mixtures need more stirring and stick blending to reach trace. If the soap was poured into the mold at this point, the soap would not properly set up. There may also be pockets of unsaponified oil and lye in your soap, which may cause skin irritation.
With a few more pulses and stirs with the stick blender, the soap will reach light trace. Light trace refers to soap batter with no oil streaks, and has the consistency of thin cake batter. The batter will be easy to pour, as shown below. Thin trace is an ideal time to add colorants and fragrances because the thin texture is easy to stir and blend. Light trace is perfect for swirled cold process designs, such as the Fall Sherbert Cold Process and the French Curl Cold Process soap.
Once the soap reaches light trace, medium trace soon follows. Medium trace can be recognized by a a thick cake batter or thin pudding consistency. Trailings of soap stay on the surface of your soap mixture when lightly drizzled from a few inches overhead. Medium trace is a great time to incorporate additives that need to suspend within the soap such as poppy seeds in the Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process Tutorial.
Adding poppy seeds into medium trace soap keeps them evenly suspended throughout the batter.
In order to reach thick trace, excessive stick blending is usually required. Thick trace is the consistency of thick pudding and holds its shaped when poured. Thick trace is perfect for bottom layers, as it is able to support lighter soap on top. It’s also great for creating textured tops, as seen in the Christmas Tree Swirl Cold Process. An extremely thick trace is necessary for creating cold process soap frosting, as seen in the Whipped Cold Process Frosting on Soap Queen TV.
When making cold process soap, beware of false trace. False trace occurs when soap batter appears to be a thick consistency, but the oils and butters have not saponified. Perhaps the most common cause of false trace is using solid oils or butters at too cool of a temperature. If solid butters and fats are below their melting point, the oils and butters may re-solidify. When this occurs, the soap batter may begin to thicken due to the oils and butters cooling and solidifying, and not because saponifaction is taking place. To avoid false trace, ensure any hard oils or butters are thoroughly melted and do not cool during the soaping process.
Factors that can affect trace:
- Stick blenders bring soap to trace more quickly than stirring by hand. When mixing your water and oils, alternate between stirring and pulsing the stick blender in short bursts. Once the soap has reached a thin trace, do not continue stick blending unless you’d like to reach a medium or thick trace.
- Some fragrance oils can accelerate the soap batter, causing it to reach a thick trace more quickly. To avoid this, use a whisk to blend in fragrance oils rather than a stick blender. Mixing in a fragrance oil with a stick blender can cause even the most well behaved fragrance oil to accelerate trace. Read more in the Soap Behaving Badly post.
- Adding fragrances after colorants and other additives gives you more time to work with the soap before a medium or thick trace is reached.
- Some additives, such as clay, affect trace. This is why pre-mixing with water helps to slow water absorption when using clays. The water and oil absorbing properties of the clay can speed trace.
- The oils and butters used will affect how quickly the soap will reach trace, and how quickly it will turn into medium or thick trace. Soap made with a high percentage of hard oils and butters will reach trace more quickly than soap made with mostly liquid oils. For example, the Castile Cubes Cold Process are made with 100% olive oil. With no hard oils or butters, this soap could be stick blended for a long time before reaching medium trace!
- Temperature also plays a part in trace. When soaping at higher temperatures, medium and thick trace will be reached more quickly than when soaping with cooler temperatures. If your design requires a lot of swirls, soaping at room temperature is common.
- Water discounting results in faster trace. A water discount is the process of decreasing the amount of recommended water in a recipe. Water discounting results in a harder bar of soap, with a shorter cure time. But, when water is discounted the recipe will reach medium and thick trace faster. Because of this, water discounting is recommended for more advanced soapers.
- Adding cold additives, such as cold milk or cream, at the end of your soapmaking process can dramatically speed trace.
- Increasing the superfat in a recipe will result in a slower moving recipe. Superfat is the amount of oils and butters in the soap that did not go through saponification. Increasing the amount of free-floating oils will slow down trace, but it also leads to a softer bar of soap that is more likely to develop DOS. In our experience, a superfat of 5 percent produces a balanced bar that behaves well.
The best way to learn about trace is to make soap! It can take some practice to get a feel for what trace looks and feels like. When making soap, do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to trace?
Sculpting Mustache Wax
Here in the Pacific Northwest, there are mustaches of every kind – some flipped up, some with a little curl added. If you’d like to add a little flair to your facial hair, this Sculpting Mustache Wax is the product for you! Made with whipped cera bellina wax, this wax is a great firm yet spreadable texture. The addition of castor oil and vitamin E oil create an incredibly sticky texture, making it easy to mold your mustache into various shapes.
You may have noticed more mustaches than usual because November is prostate cancer awareness month. In order to raise awareness and funds, men take part in No-Shave November and Movember by growing out their facial hair to spark conversation about the disease.
Currently, several men at Bramble Berry are growing out their facial hair to support the cause. In addition to $150 already donated, for each participant we are donating an additional $25 to the American Cancer Society. It’s been fun to see all the beards and mustaches around the office and warehouse!
12 Days of Christmas: Winter Gardenia Ombre Candle
When temperatures begin to drop, nothing beats cozying up inside. Create a lovely ambiance by making (and lighting) a candle. This Winter Gardenia Fragrance Oil candle fills the room with a unique floral scent. With notes of peppermint, gardenia, lily and jasmine, this scent is perfect for the holiday season and cold days.
This candle features layered blue hues, which become lighter from bottom to top. Easy to make, this project does require a bit of patience as it is important to let each layer cool and harden before pouring the next.
12 Days of Christmas: Glamorous Gold Eye Shadow Quad
If you’re looking to update your makeup look, the holiday season is the perfect time to add a little glitz and glam! Gold and copper eye shadow is perfect for special occasions and is also wearable for everyday. Even better, gold tones are extremely flattering for a wide variety of skin tones. This Glamorous Gold Eye Shadow Quad features four shades for easy blending and customization.
The classic gold shade is great base color, while the light gold is perfect for highlighting. The two darker shades are meant for shadows and contouring. I can’t wait to use these colors to create a look similar to this, or this look for a special occasion. Looking for more tips on how to apply eye shadow? The instructions in the Pumpkin Shimmer Eye shadow Tutorial would work well for these colors as well.
If you have never made mineral makeup before, it’s incredibly easy! To learn more, check out this Mineral Makeup Soap Queen TV Episode.
12 Days of Christmas: Scented Beeswax Ornaments
The holiday season will soon be upon us. With only 44 days until Christmas, now is the perfect time to start creating homemade gifts. Starting today, keep your eyes on the blog for 12 days of consecutive holiday inspired tutorials. All the projects are easy to make and even easier to give!
To kick things off, these Scented Beeswax Ornaments are the perfect addition to your Christmas tree. Scented with Woodland Elves Fragrance Oil, these ornaments smell like a fresh pine, clove and juniper. If you have a fake tree this year, these ornaments are a great way to bring the fresh Christmas tree scent inside!
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How to Throw a DIY Sugar Scrub Party + Recipe
What’s better than crafting? Crafting with family and friends of course! A few weeks ago, I invited a couple girlfriends to eat, drink, chat and make sugar scrub and nail polish. Both projects are great for parties because they are fun, easy, and attendees can take home their creations the same day.
You can have two DIY stations like I did (nail polish + sugar scrub), or focus on one project. In this post, I’ll show you how to setup a DIY sugar scrub station for your next party…look out for a “How to Throw a DIY Nail Polish Party,” post in a few weeks! =)
Movember Mustache Melt and Pour
This month, you may notice more men sporting beards and mustaches. November is prostate-cancer awareness month and in order to raise awareness and funds, some men take part in No-Shave November, or Movember. Both organizations focus on growing out facial hair to spark conversation about the disease. No-Shave November urges men to donate the money usually spent on grooming products to the American Cancer Society.
These adorable Movember Mustache Melt and Pour soaps are a great project to raise awareness and take part in the hairy fun! Made with Shaving Melt and Pour base, these soaps can be used for the hands and body, and will be perfect for shaving once the month ends. Scented with Mahogany and Shave and a Haircut Fragrance Oils, these soaps smell wonderfully masculine.
Sunday Night Spotlight: Sweet Almond Oil
Sweet Almond Oil is an incredibly versatile bath and beauty product. Excellent for use in scrubs, massage oils, cold process soap and lip balms, sweet almond oil is nearly odorless and light in color. It is great for a variety of skin types due to its lightweight texture and moisturizing ability.
Sweet almond oil is produced by pressing the kernels of almond trees, and is known for its rich concentration of essential fatty acids. Sweet almond oil is produced from the same type of almonds you consume, and is full of vitamin A, E and B2. It has a shelf life of six to twelve months, and can be used in cold process soap up to 20%.
Facebook Photo of the Week (Oct. 18th ~ Oct. 24th)
The skies were cloudy and gray most of the week here in Bellingham, WA. Good thing there was plenty of vibrant colors and smells in the office! India was the inspiration for the Color, Spice and Everything Nice promotion, which has a variety of fun projects like this Vibrant Mendhi Cold Process Tutorial. A soapy pattern, colored with the new Radiant Plum Colorant, tops off layers of bright green and hot pink for a totally unique and cheerful soap.
Vibrant Mehndi Cold Process
Henna body art is a very popular tradition in India. Henna, or mendhi, is a paste of crushed leaves and twigs from the henna plant. When this paste is applied to skin, it leaves a beautiful stain behind. The tradition is often used to celebrate a happy occasion or special day. What better inspiration for a cold process soap?
The intricate detail and gorgeous designs are breathtaking to look at. To recreate the mehndi appearance, cold process soap colored with Radiant Plum Colorant is used to trace a mehndi inspired design. Brightly colored lime green and pink soap top the henna pattern. Scented with a fresh and slightly smoky mixture of Lime Fragrance Oil, Mango Mango Fragrance Oil and Patchouli Fragrance Oil, this is the perfect soap to celebrate a happy occasion.
Creating the mehndi pattern using squeeze bottles can be a little tricky, and may require some practice. The key is achieving the right trace consistency; the soap should be thin enough to flow out of the bottle, while thick enough to hold its shape. To simplify the technique, a pattern was placed under the liner to use as a guide. This mehndi template is available for download if you’d like to recreate the same pattern.
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Mad about Madder Root Powder
Experimenting with various soap ingredients is part of what makes soap making so much fun. In addition to scent and shape, adding color to soapy creations gives your product personality and flair. Luckily there are plenty of colorants to choose from, including LabColors, pigments, micas and natural colorants such as clays. If you prefer to use natural colorants, madder root powder is a great orange-red colorant option for both cold process and melt and pour soap.
A plant species in the genus Rubia, madder (INCI: Rubia tinctorum) is a climbing plant with small flowers and long roots. Madder root has been used for centuries as a dye for textiles and cosmetic products. Traces of madder have even been discovered in the tomb of the Pharoah Tutankhamun and in the ruins of Pompeii. The FDA requires approved cosmetic colorants to be used when specifically coloring cosmetics. Because madder root has not been approved as a cosmetic colorant, it should be used in soap for its herbal properties and not its inherent coloring ability. Madder root is considered not safe for infant products so do not use madder root with baby products.
Rubia tinctorum contains the organic compound alizarin, which give the roots their deep red color. Alizarin is also used to create madder lake pigments, which are sometimes referred to as rose madder and alizarin crimson. Madder lake has been used for centuries by painters to give their pieces rich red tones. In 1869, alizarin became the first natural pigment to be duplicated synthetically.
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