Inspired by the regal character from Alice in Wonderland, this Queen of Hearts Cold Process soap is full of eye-catching contrast. Created with melt and pour embeds, a cold process base and soap frosting, this sophisticated soap will make a fantastic Valentine’s gift (it will be here sooner than you think!). LoveSpell and Baby Rose fragrance oils create a rosy, warm and slightly juicy scent blend that is wonderfully feminine.
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All About the Trace
There are a lot of terms thrown around when you’re learning how to make soap. The most tricky of them for a newbie to learn and recognize is ‘trace.’ All the books, blogs and videos say to stop stick blending when you’ve hit ‘trace’ and then, more confusingly, it may have been referred to as thin, medium or thick trace. What is trace? Simply put, trace is a point in the soap making process when oils and lye water have emulsified. Once the soap has reached thin trace, it will continue to thicken over time.
Mixing lye water and oils together starts the saponification process. Saponification occurs once the oil and lye molecules create new soap molecules. If you are a visual learner, this Soap Queen TV episode explains the saponification process visually. And for even more information, in Erica Pences’s online classes (here and here) she delves deep into trace and the uses of different types of trace. Once the lye and oils are saponified and the two will not separate, the soap has reached trace!
Immediately upon pouring lye water into oils, the mixture will begin to turn slightly cloudy and milky. With a few pulses and stirs of the stick blender, the entire mixture will turn a creamy consistency. This process happens fairly quickly. Before the age of stick blenders, it could take hours for soap to reach trace! In the photos below, you can see the lye water and oils are beginning to emulsify. Trace has not been achieved.
Notice the streaks of oil in the photos below? These mixtures have not reached trace, because they are not thoroughly mixed. Some of the oils have not yet started saponification, and the mixture is not completely emulsified. These mixtures need more stirring and stick blending to reach trace. If the soap was poured into the mold at this point, the soap would not properly set up. There may also be pockets of unsaponified oil and lye in your soap, which may cause skin irritation.
With a few more pulses and stirs with the stick blender, the soap will reach light trace. Light trace refers to soap batter with no oil streaks, and has the consistency of thin cake batter. The batter will be easy to pour, as shown below. Thin trace is an ideal time to add colorants and fragrances because the thin texture is easy to stir and blend. Light trace is perfect for swirled cold process designs, such as the Fall Sherbert Cold Process and the French Curl Cold Process soap.
Once the soap reaches light trace, medium trace soon follows. Medium trace can be recognized by a a thick cake batter or thin pudding consistency. Trailings of soap stay on the surface of your soap mixture when lightly drizzled from a few inches overhead. Medium trace is a great time to incorporate additives that need to suspend within the soap such as poppy seeds in the Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process Tutorial.
Adding poppy seeds into medium trace soap keeps them evenly suspended throughout the batter.
In order to reach thick trace, excessive stick blending is usually required. Thick trace is the consistency of thick pudding and holds its shaped when poured. Thick trace is perfect for bottom layers, as it is able to support lighter soap on top. It’s also great for creating textured tops, as seen in the Christmas Tree Swirl Cold Process. An extremely thick trace is necessary for creating cold process soap frosting, as seen in the Whipped Cold Process Frosting on Soap Queen TV.
When making cold process soap, beware of false trace. False trace occurs when soap batter appears to be a thick consistency, but the oils and butters have not saponified. Perhaps the most common cause of false trace is using solid oils or butters at too cool of a temperature. If solid butters and fats are below their melting point, the oils and butters may re-solidify. When this occurs, the soap batter may begin to thicken due to the oils and butters cooling and solidifying, and not because saponifaction is taking place. To avoid false trace, ensure any hard oils or butters are thoroughly melted and do not cool during the soaping process.
Factors that can affect trace:
- Stick blenders bring soap to trace more quickly than stirring by hand. When mixing your water and oils, alternate between stirring and pulsing the stick blender in short bursts. Once the soap has reached a thin trace, do not continue stick blending unless you’d like to reach a medium or thick trace.
- Some fragrance oils can accelerate the soap batter, causing it to reach a thick trace more quickly. To avoid this, use a whisk to blend in fragrance oils rather than a stick blender. Mixing in a fragrance oil with a stick blender can cause even the most well behaved fragrance oil to accelerate trace. Read more in the Soap Behaving Badly post.
- Adding fragrances after colorants and other additives gives you more time to work with the soap before a medium or thick trace is reached.
- Some additives, such as clay, affect trace. This is why pre-mixing with water helps to slow water absorption when using clays. The water and oil absorbing properties of the clay can speed trace.
- The oils and butters used will affect how quickly the soap will reach trace, and how quickly it will turn into medium or thick trace. Soap made with a high percentage of hard oils and butters will reach trace more quickly than soap made with mostly liquid oils. For example, the Castile Cubes Cold Process are made with 100% olive oil. With no hard oils or butters, this soap could be stick blended for a long time before reaching medium trace!
- Temperature also plays a part in trace. When soaping at higher temperatures, medium and thick trace will be reached more quickly than when soaping with cooler temperatures. If your design requires a lot of swirls, soaping at room temperature is common.
- Water discounting results in faster trace. A water discount is the process of decreasing the amount of recommended water in a recipe. Water discounting results in a harder bar of soap, with a shorter cure time. But, when water is discounted the recipe will reach medium and thick trace faster. Because of this, water discounting is recommended for more advanced soapers.
- Adding cold additives, such as cold milk or cream, at the end of your soapmaking process can dramatically speed trace.
- Increasing the superfat in a recipe will result in a slower moving recipe. Superfat is the amount of oils and butters in the soap that did not go through saponification. Increasing the amount of free-floating oils will slow down trace, but it also leads to a softer bar of soap that is more likely to develop DOS. In our experience, a superfat of 5 percent produces a balanced bar that behaves well.
The best way to learn about trace is to make soap! It can take some practice to get a feel for what trace looks and feels like. When making soap, do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to trace?
Winter Gardenia Room Diffuser DIY
Room diffusers are a great way to add fragrance to any space. They are also incredibly easy to make, making them perfect last minute gifts. The sample of the month, Winter Gardenia, brings crisp floral notes along with a hint of peppermint to your space. Accented with a beautiful paper gardenia designed by Lia Griffith, this diffuser looks as stylish as it smells.
If you’re looking for Winter Gardenia Fragrance Oil blending ideas, check out the Sample Idea Sheet. The sample idea sheets can be found on the right hand side of the Bramble Berry homepage. Along with blending ideas for the current sample, each sample idea sheet also features a tutorial!
Sunday Night Spotlight: Vitamin E Oil
Easy to use in a wide variety of projects, vitamin E oil is a fat soluble antioxidant. Thick and rather sticky, vitamin E oil is great for use in lip balms, lotion, balms and soap. It is well known for its skin loving properties, including its ability to protect the skin from free radicals.
Facebook Photo of the Week (Nov. 22nd ~ Nov. 28th)
It’s hard to believe it’s almost December and Thanksgiving is over! After all the food, fun and festivities, it was nice to enjoy Baked Pumpkin Pecan Oatmeal. This dish, which is like a heavenly combination of pumpkin and pecan pie, has a gooey center and a crunchy nutty topping. It is easy to make and even easier to eat, making it a perfect warm breakfast all winter long. I promised to make it for my Dad this morning so I had better get going!
Neon Embed Cold Process Soap Video #tbt
It’s another throw-back Thursday video! This one features Kristy Schemrich, an amazingly talented soapmaker and teacher at our 2011 Soap Weekend Intensive (when we filmed this video). This soap has many steps but once you break it down the technique is surprisingly easy. It’s been wonderful looking back through the archives, we clearly had so much fun filming with Kristy as you can see from this blooper reel.
Sculpting Mustache Wax
Here in the Pacific Northwest, there are mustaches of every kind – some flipped up, some with a little curl added. If you’d like to add a little flair to your facial hair, this Sculpting Mustache Wax is the product for you! Made with whipped cera bellina wax, this wax is a great firm yet spreadable texture. The addition of castor oil and vitamin E oil create an incredibly sticky texture, making it easy to mold your mustache into various shapes.
You may have noticed more mustaches than usual because November is prostate cancer awareness month. In order to raise awareness and funds, men take part in No-Shave November and Movember by growing out their facial hair to spark conversation about the disease.
Currently, several men at Bramble Berry are growing out their facial hair to support the cause. In addition to $150 already donated, for each participant we are donating an additional $25 to the American Cancer Society. It’s been fun to see all the beards and mustaches around the office and warehouse!
DIY Ornament Party for the Kids
I’m a firm believer in engaging kids in crafty projects at a young age. Arts and crafts enhance confidence and teach children to think creatively and problem solve. Not to mention, kids love creating! A great way to entertain the kids this holiday season is by throwing a DIY party for the little ones.
Soapy Social Media Roundup
This weekend, I’m enjoying the California sun during a UPS event for west coast clients. It’s been wonderful to escape the Pacific Northwest rain! When Monday comes around, Thanksgiving prep will be in full swing. Jamisen’s interest in helping in the kitchen is growing, which is both fun and messy (see photo below). This Thanksgiving dinner, I’m definitely planning on utilizing my new kitchen assistant.
Keep your eyes on the blog tomorrow for a delicious Thanksgiving-inspired breakfast option, perfect for the morning of or day after. It’s full of pumpkin, pecans, and oatmeal. In the meantime, here are some of my favorite Christmas-y pins, colorful Instagrams and interesting tweets.
Pins:
Left to right, clockwise:
- These DIY Cornstarch Clay Gift Tags are adorable! This would be a great project to make with the kids. If you’re looking for more natural ornament ideas, the Beeswax Ornaments add a festive scent to your home.
- This Holly Jolly Reindeer Print Wrapping Papper is made using craft paint, pom poms and craft paper. I love the simplicity of this look.
- Created by Sunlit Soap, this Holiday Candy Cane Soap is perfectly festive and sophisticated. The stamp in the center works wonderfully with the layered design.
- You can never have too much glitter, and this is especially true during the holidays! These DIY glitter acorns would make a fun centerpiece or ornament.
Instagram:
The soap below was swirled with the handle of a silicone spatula, producing large swirls. These bars were cute horizontally, and I love how every bar looks incredibly different. What fun and unique swirling tools have you used?
While Christmas is right around the corner, I always have my mind on the next holiday. Valentine’s Day will be here before we know it, and with this heart-filled soap…I’m ready!
Twitter:
- Social media content should be driven by your community. Make sure the content ads value to that community! Here are some tips to improve your social media insight, and how to create better content for your audience.
- Ever eaten lunch at work, and suddenly felt more tired? Turns out, what you eat for lunch can effect your productivity.
- Are 3D printers the next must-have crafting tool? Probably not, but Martha Stewart and Makerbot have teamed up to make the device more mainstream. The results are pretty amazing!
- A newscaster in Australia wore the same suit for a year to make a point about sexism. Seeing how much attention we give to female public figures and what they wear, this is incredibly interesting!
- Making a bad decision for your business is a fear of every business owner. This video of the “10 Worst Business Decisions of All Time” is sure to put things in perspective.
I hope you’re all having a great weekend! To keep up with the latest soapy social media throughout the week, you can follow me on Twitter, Tumblr, Instagram, Pinterest, Vine and YouTube.
Facebook Photo of the Week (Nov. 15th ~ Nov. 21st)
The 12 Days of Christmas promotion is officially over tomorrow. Hopefully you have lots of handmade gift ideas for the holidays! The promotion features easy to make projects, like the adorable Chocolate Mint Melt and Pour soaps. With a delectable mix of Dark Rich Chocolate Fragrance Oil and Moroccan Mint Fragrance Oil, this soap smells just like a classic holiday candy. The Moroccan Mint Fragrance Oil is 30% off until tomorrow at noon PST. No coupon necessary.
12 Days of Christmas: Chocolate Mint Melt and Pour Squares
We saved something sweet for last for the final tutorial in the 12 Days of Christmas series. Layers of melt and pour scented with Moroccan Mint and Dark Rich Chocolate Fragrance Oils create delicious smelling (and looking!) guest-sized soap. Reminiscent of a classic mint candy, this project is easy to make and great for beginners.
These minty, chocolatey soaps would make an amazing holiday gift for any chocolate lover in your life. Wrap these soaps in green wrapping paper for a great finishing touch. Remember to have a spray bottle of 99% isopropyl or rubbing alcohol on hand for this project! Spraying with alcohol is key to the layers sticking together. To learn more about creating layers with melt and pour soap, check out the Basic Layers Soap Queen TV episode.
12 Days of Christmas: Lotion Melt and Pour Cubes
Adding oils and butters to melt and pour bases can be tricky. Extra oils can cause the melt and pour to not set up correctly, or may inhibit lather. After a bit of testing, we found a way to add the skin-loving Aloe Lotion Base to the Shea Melt and Pour to create an extra creamy, firm bar. Adding the Aloe Lotion Base gives your soap additional aloe vera juice, rice bran oil and soothing oat extract. The key is to heat the lotion before mixing it into the melt and pour. Without this step, the lotion and melt and pour may separate.
These melt and pour cubes are made with the creamy and delicious Cream Cheese Frosting Fragrance Oil. Colored with Emerald Green LabColor, these soaps are wonderfully festive and cheery. Don’t forget to add the Vanilla Color Stabilizer, otherwise the Cream Cheese Frosting Fragrance Oil will discolor the soap a deep brown.
12 Days of Christmas: Peppermint Pucker Lip Scrub
While the holiday season is full of cheer, it can also be tough on your lips. Blowing wind, cold temperatures, rain and snow can cause chapping or dryness. This Peppermint Pucker Lip Scrub lightly exfoliates, allowing lip balm to soak in better. This results in more hydrated, happy lips!
Red Jojoba Beads and sugar add gentle exfoliation and beautiful holiday color while avocado oil leaves a smooth and silky feeling on your lips. Mint Julep Flavor Oil adds a nice fresh kick to the scrub. And because this scrub is made with Nourish Lip Balm Base, it’s easy and quick to throw together as a last-minute handmade holiday gift.
12 Days of Christmas: Minty Layered Bath Salts
With cold weather and stress from the holidays, a hot bath is perfect this time of year. Bath salts can turn a simple soak in the tub into a rejuvenating and relaxing experience. Simply add a scoop to your tub and enjoy!
These Minty Layered Bath Salts add a fresh mint scent to the bath, along with soothing properties from pink sea salt. The combination of baking soda and citric acid add a bit of fizziness similar to a bath bomb.
In addition to pink sea salt, this soak is made of epsom salt which is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. Extremely fine and jewel-like, epsom salt crystals are great for creating scrubs as well!