Icelandic black sand comes from a volcanic beach on the South Coast of Iceland. In this Volcanic Sand & Charcoal Face Scrub, it provides a mild yet effective exfoliation. It’s best suited for combination to oily skin.

The base is a combination of gentle kaolin clay and Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base. The liquid soap base is made from olive oil, which creates a gentle lather that won’t dry out the skin. The liquid soap also helps the clay and charcoal wash off the skin completely. A touch of seaweed extract adds extra skin-loving properties.

This scrub is lightly scented with Coastal Rain Fragrance Oil, which is a great unisex option. This scrub makes a great gift – download the free labels here.

What You Need:
Five 4 oz. Jars
11 oz. Kaolin Clay
3 oz. Icelandic Black Sand
0.6 oz. Activated Charcoal
10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
1 oz. Seaweed Extract
6 mL Coastal Rain Fragrance Oil
0.2 oz. Optiphen
Volcanic Sand & Charcoal Scrub Labels – Free PDF

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a large bowl, mix together 11 ounces of kaolin clay, 3 ounces of Icelandic black sand, and 0.6 ounces of activated charcoal.

TWO: Add 1 ounce of seaweed extract and 10 ounces of Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base. Stir until all the ingredients are completely combined.

THREE: Add 6 mL of Coastal Rain Fragrance Oil and 0.2 ounces of Optiphen. Stir the mixture thoroughly.

FOUR: Pour or scoop the mixture into jars. To use, apply the scrub to clean, wet skin. Gently scrub in circular motions for about 30-60 seconds and wash off. Enjoy.

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Volcanic Sand & Charcoal Face Scrub

This easy DIY scrub is great for oily skin. It's made with activated charcoal and new Icelandic black sand.

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Five 4 oz. Jars
• 11 oz. Kaolin Clay
• 3 oz. Icelandic Black Sand
• 0.6 oz. Activated Charcoal
• 10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
• 1 oz. Seaweed Extract
• 6 mL Coastal Rain Fragrance Oil
• 0.2 oz. Optiphen
• Volcanic Sand & Charcoal Scrub Labels – Free PDF

Instructions

• In a large bowl, mix together 11 ounces of kaolin clay, 3 ounces of Icelandic black sand, and 0.6 ounces of activated charcoal.
• Add 1 ounce of seaweed extract and 10 ounces of Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base. Stir until all the ingredients are completely combined.
• Add 6 mL of Coastal Rain Fragrance Oil and 0.2 ounces of Optiphen. Stir the mixture thoroughly.
• Pour or scoop the mixture into jars. To use, apply the scrub to clean, wet skin. Gently scrub in circular motions for about 30-60 seconds and wash off. Enjoy.

The post Volcanic Sand & Charcoal Face Scrub appeared first on Soap Queen.

The Charcoal Facial Soap is one of our most popular recipes to date. We decided to make it into a kit so it’s even easier to try. The Charcoal Facial Soap Kit comes with ingredients like tamanu oil, activated charcoal, and tea tree essential oil. The ingredients were specifically chosen for oily and combination skin.

The kit also comes with the new 6 Cavity Silicone Rectangle Mold, easy-to-follow printed instructions, and printed labels. It’s a great project for beginners and advanced soapers alike. To see a larger batch of the recipe in action, check out the How to Make Charcoal Facial Soap video on Soap Queen TV.

This recipe benefits from a slightly high soaping temperature (120-130° F) and being placed on a heating pad (we like this one) once poured into the mold. The hotter temperatures and 15% water discount helps the soap harden faster so it’s ready to unmold in just a few days.

What You Need:
*All items are included in the Charcoal Facial Soap Kit
6 Cavity Silicone Rectangle Mold 
0.7 oz. Castor Oil (5%)
3.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25.4%)
3.5 oz. Palm Oil (25.4%)
5.6 oz. Olive Oil (40.6%)
0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil (3.6%)
2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
4 oz. Distilled Water (15% water discount)
0.6 oz. Tea Tree Essential Oil
2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
1 tsp. Sodium Lactate 

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Charcoal Facial Soap Kit

Create 6 bars of soap that leave your skin feeling clean and fresh.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 6 bars of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 6 Cavity Silicone Rectangle Mold
• 0.7 oz. Castor Oil 5%
• 3.5 oz. Coconut Oil 25.4%
• 3.5 oz. Palm Oil 25.4%
• 5.6 oz. Olive Oil 40.6%
• 0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil 3.6%
• 2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 4 oz. Distilled Water 15% water discount
• 0.6 oz. Tea Tree Essential Oil
• 2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
• 1 tsp. Sodium Lactate

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 2 oz. of lye to 4 oz. of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool to about 120-130 degrees F. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, add 1 teaspoon sodium lactate.
• Completely melt the bags of coconut oil and palm oil in the microwave with the caps on. Weigh 3.5 oz. of coconut oil, 3.5 oz. of palm oil, 0.7 oz. of castor oil, 0.5 oz. of tamanu oil, and 5.6 oz. of olive oil into a medium glass container. Set aside until it reaches 120-130 degrees F.
• With gloves and goggles on, add the lye water to the oils. Pulse the blender on and off to mix. Continue to pulse and stir for about 1-2 minutes.
• Once the soap is a pudding-like texture and the oils are fully mixed, add 0.6 oz. of essential oil and 2 tsp. of charcoal. Whisk until combined.
• Pour the soap into each cavity of the mold. Tap the mold on the counter to get rid of bubbles. Place the mold onto a heating pad set to medium for 2-3 hours. Turn the heating pad off and allow the soap to harden for 2-4 days.
• Pull two sides of the cavity away from the bars of soap. If the cavity releases easily, pull the other two sides away and gently press the soap out from the bottom. If the soap sticks to the mold, let it harden for another day and try again.
• Allow the soap to cure on a well-ventilated shelf for 4-6 weeks to create firm, long-lasting bars. Enjoy.

The post Charcoal Facial Soap Kit appeared first on Soap Queen.

Charcoal soap has become extremely popular, and for good reason – it has amazing skin benefits. Its powerful absorption properties make it especially beneficial for oily facial skin. Learn more about the skin benefits of charcoal here.

This Lavender & Charcoal Soap was designed primarily for use on the body, but it’s also suitable for the face. In particular, the olive oil and cocoa butter are moisturizing so they make it suitable for combination or drier skin. If you have oily facial skin, the Charcoal Facial Soap is for you.

The activated charcoal gives part of the soap a striking gray color, while the rest of the soap is left uncolored. The two are poured into the mold in layers and then swirled together using the Hanger Swirl Tool. The lack of precision in the swirling technique creates different bars each time. It also makes it a great swirl for beginners because there is no right or wrong way to do it.

To help the activated charcoal mix into the batter smoothly, we dispersed it in a lightweight liquid oil. Sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, and avocado oil work well. For this recipe, mix 1 tablespoon charcoal with 1 tablespoon oil. Add the entire mixture at trace.

10” Silicone Loaf Mold
Hanger Swirl Tool
3.3 oz. Cocoa Butter (10%)
8.3 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
13.2 oz. Olive Oil (40%)
8.3 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
9.8 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
1.75 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
1 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
Optional: 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

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Lavender & Charcoal Soap DIY

This Lavender and Charcoal Soap is made with relaxing Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and features a black and white swirl.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 2 -3 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ” Silicone Loaf Mold
• Hanger Swirl Tool
• 3.3 oz. Cocoa Butter 10%
• 8.3 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 13.2 oz. Olive Oil 40%
• 8.3 oz. Palm Oil 25%
• 4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 9.8 oz. Distilled Water 10% water discount
• 1.75 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• 1 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
• Optional: 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.75 ounces of Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 tablespoon of the activated charcoal into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 4.6 ounces of lye to 9.8 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning).
• Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace.
• Whisk in the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil. Split off about 300 mL of soap into a separate container.
• To the large container, add all of the dispersed activated charcoal and use a whisk to mix in.
• Alternate pouring the white and black soap into the mold, until all the soap has been poured into the mold.
• Insert the Hanger Swirl Tool into the soap, and create 5-6 loops within the soap. Remove the Hanger Swirl Tool and tap the mold on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
• Use a spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it! If the soap does not hold its shape, allow it to harden in the mold for several minutes and try again.
• Once you’re happy with the look, spritz the top with alcohol to prevent soda ash. Allow it to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Cut into bars and allow it to cure for 4-6 weeks before using. Enjoy!

The post Lavender & Charcoal Soap DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

The lore of children receiving a lump of coal for Christmas occurs in many cultures. While the origin stories are all slightly different, one aspect is consistent: bad children receive a lump of coal and good children receive a present. These Lump of Coal Soaps put a fun spin on holiday gifts. Your friends and family will actually want these in their stockings.

They’re created with rebatch soap base. Rebatching refers to melting grated cold process soap over low heat. The soap can then be customized with color and fragrance. The Luxury Grated Rebatch Soap used in this project contains a skin-loving blend of oils and butters such as shea butter and olive oil. It’s made fresh so it’s easy to melt down.

Rebatch soap can be melted using a few different heating methods. In this video, the rebatch soap is melted using a double boiler. You can also use a Crock-Pot, as shown in this tutorial. For this project we used a Presto Pot, which is similar to a fondue pot. The key is low, consistent heat.

Once the soap is melted, activated charcoal is added to give a coal-like appearance. Then Sandalwood Vanilla Fragrance Oil is mixed in for a sultry and delicious scent. The soap is allowed to cool slightly and formed into balls using your hands. Finally, a touch of Snowflake Sparkle Mica and a bit more activated charcoal are sprinkled on top. Because of the large amount of charcoal, these bars do lather gray.

What You Need:
48 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap 
3-4 oz. Distilled Water
2 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
1.2 oz. Sandalwood Vanilla Fragrance Oil
Snowflake Sparkle Mica

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Place the Luxury Rebatch Soap into your Crock-Pot, double boiler, or fondue pot. If using a Crock-Pot or fondue pot, turn the temperature on low and add about 1 ounce of water. Allow the soap to “cook” for a few minutes to gauge the temperature. If you see the soap starting to melt slightly, you can increase the temperature to low-medium and stir frequently.

TWO: As the soap cooks, add small splashes of water to help it melt down smoothly. Continue stirring frequently so the soap at the bottom of the pot doesn’t burn.

After a few minutes, the soap will look like very thick mashed potatoes, as shown below. Continue cooking slightly past this point to melt down any pieces of soap still present. Add a bit more water if necessary.

THREE: Once the soap is smooth, add 1.2 oz. Sandalwood Vanilla Fragrance Oil and thoroughly mix in for several minutes.

FOUR: Add the activated charcoal 1 teaspoon at a time. Stir thoroughly between each addition.

FIVE: Once all the charcoal is added, the soap will have a gray color. If it’s still very thick, add small amounts of water to achieve a smoother consistency. We don’t recommend adding more than 4 ounces of water. If you still see large chunks of rebatch, let the soap continue to cook for several minutes. Turn up the heat if necessary, just be careful to not let the soap burn!

SIX: Lay down several pieces of wax or parchment paper down on your work surface. Then spoon dollops of soap onto the paper. You can make them whatever size you like. Our soaps weighed about 2-3 ounces each.

SEVEN: As the dollops of soap sit, they will cool and harden. Once they are still soft but cool to touch, use your gloved hand to form them into the lump of coal shape you prefer. We made some of ours round, and some more oblong.

EIGHT: Sprinkle Snowflake Sparkle Mica and a touch of activated charcoal onto each soap. Use your hands to press the colors into the soap. There is really no right or wrong way to do it, and don’t worry about making them perfect. If the soap is still too warm and not holding its shape, allow it to cool for a few more minutes.

NINE: Allow the soap to fully cool and harden on the paper for a few hours. Once they are completely firm, transfer them to an area where they can cure for at least a week. Rebatch soap is ready to use once it’s cool, but we find letting it cure for at least a week allows any excess water to evaporate and creates a longer-lasting bar. Enjoy.
NOTE: These bars do lather gray due to the charcoal content. 

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Lump of Coal Soap Tutorial

Your friends and family will actually want these skin-loving lumps of coal in their stockings.

Cuisine Rebatch Soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 2 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 48 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap
• 3-4 oz. Distilled Water
• 2 Tbsp. Activated Charcoal
• 1.2 oz. Sandalwood Vanilla Fragrance Oil
• Snowflake Sparkle Mica

Instructions

• Place the Luxury Rebatch Soap into your Crock-Pot, double boiler, or fondue pot. If using a Crock-Pot or fondue pot, turn the temperature on low and add about 1 ounce of water. Allow the soap to “cook” for a few minutes to gauge the temperature. If you see the soap starting to melt slightly, you can increase the temperature to low-medium and stir frequently.
• As the soap cooks, add small splashes of water to help it melt down smoothly. Continue stirring frequently so the soap at the bottom of the pot doesn’t burn. After a few minutes, the soap will look like very thick mashed potatoes, as shown below. Continue cooking slightly past this point to melt down any pieces of soap still present. Add a bit more water if necessary.
• Once the soap is smooth, add 1.2 oz. Sandalwood Vanilla Fragrance Oil and thoroughly mix in for several minutes.
• Add the activated charcoal 1 teaspoon at a time. Stir thoroughly between each addition.
• Once all the charcoal is added, the soap will have a gray color. If it’s still very thick, add small amounts of water to achieve a smoother consistency. We don’t recommend adding more than 4 ounces of water. If you still see large chunks of rebatch, let the soap continue to cook for several minutes. Turn up the heat if necessary, just be careful to not let the soap burn!
• Lay down several pieces of wax or parchment paper down on your work surface. Then spoon dollops of soap onto the paper. You can make them whatever size you like. Our soaps weighed about 2-3 ounces each.
• Sprinkle Snowflake Sparkle Mica and a touch of activated charcoal onto each soap. Use your hands to press the colors into the soap. There is really no right or wrong way to do it, and don’t worry about making them perfect. If the soap is still too warm and not holding its shape, allow it to cool for a few more minutes.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden on the paper for a few hours. Once they are completely firm, transfer them to an area where they can cure for at least a week. Rebatch soap is ready to use once it’s cool, but we find letting it cure for at least a week allows any excess water to evaporate and creates a longer-lasting bar. Enjoy. NOTE: These bars do lather gray due to the charcoal content.

The post Lump of Coal Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Black tea has been renowned for centuries as a potent source of powerful antioxidants. This Black Tea Cold Process Soap recipe harnesses those properties by replacing water with black tea. It’s also scented with the new Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. The fragrance is a complex blend of smoky tea leaves and bright bergamot with a subtle base of amber. It’s a fantastic uni-sex fragrance oil.

If you’ve never replaced water in your recipe with tea, it’s easier than you think. Simply brew the tea, allow it to cool and mix in the lye like you would with water. The lye solution will become a dark brown, so this recipe contains titanium dioxide to lighten the color. Purple Brazilian clay adds a natural purple hue, while activated charcoal gives a deep grey color.

Because this recipe does contain plenty of titanium dioxide, it has a 20% water discount. The first time we made the soap without a water discount, we got a lot of glycerin rivers (Learn more about glycerin rivers here.) The water discount — or in this case, tea discount — eliminated them completely. The discount also helps to achieve a thick, easy-to-layer texture.

What You Need:
5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
Silicone Liner for 5 Pound Mold
2.7 oz. Cocoa Butter (5%)
13.5 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
2.7 oz. Matcha Green Tea Butter (5%)
16.2 oz. Olive Oil (30%)
13.5 oz. Palm Oil (25%)
5.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil (10%)
14.3 oz. Brewed Black Tea (20% water discount)
7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 oz. Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Activated Charcoal
Purple Brazilian Clay
Black Tea Leaves (for the top & to brew tea)
Large Sealable Tea Bag (for brewing tea)

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. Or if you’d prefer to read, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap.To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 3 teaspoon of the colorant into 3 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1 tablespoon of liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps. Then, disperse 3 teaspoons of purple Brazilian clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water. Because clays absorb moisture, we recommend dispersing them in water rather than oil. Use a mini mixer or small spoon to disperse the clay.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil into a glass container that is safe for use with fragrance oil. Set aside.

BLACK TEA PREP:  First, boil 16 ounces distilled water to prepare the tea. It’s best to prep more tea than you need, because you will lose some during the steeping process. Add 4 tablespoons of black tea into the Large Sealable Tea Bag. If you’d like the tea to be stronger or lighter, you can use more or less tea. Iron the tea bag closed, and place in the hot distilled water.

Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bag and wait for the tea to cool to about 70 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be.If you’d like, you can also freeze the tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.

Measure out 14.3 ounces of tea. If you don’t have enough, add more distilled water. Save the tea leaves to place on top of the soap if you’d like. Place them on a paper towel to dry until you’re ready to use.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the black tea and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. Do not panic. That’s what the titanium dioxide is for. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, matcha green tea butter, sweet almond oil, and palm oil. Remember to fully melt and then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until you have a thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3.5 tsp. of sodium lactate.

THREE: Once you reach a very thin trace, add all the Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. It’s okay to add the fragrance at the beginning because it behaves very well in soap.

FOUR: Split off about 26 ounces of soap into a separate container. Add 2 teaspoons of dispersed activated charcoal, and use a whisk to fully mix in. Set aside.

FIVE: Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide into the large amount of remaining soap. Use the stick blender to fully incorporate the titanium dioxide. Then split the batch in half. Each should weigh about 26 ounces. Add all the dispersed purple Brazilian clay to one container. Use the stick blender to incorporate the clay. Leave the other container of soap uncolored.

SIX: Now it’s time to start layering! First, make sure all the colors of soap are a medium to thick trace.  Stick blend each from lightest to darkest until a medium to thick texture is achieved. Because they all have different amounts of various colorants, they may thicken at different rates.

SEVEN: Once you’re happy with the texture of each color, pour half of the uncolored soap into the mold and use a spoon to even it throughout the mold. Use the spoon to give the layer texture, because this design does not need exact straight layers.

EIGHT: Pour half of the black soap onto the white. Be careful not to let the black soap fall through the first layer of white. Use a spoon to gently cover the white soap. Use the spoon to spread it evenly, and to give it texture.

NINE: Cover the black soap with half of the purple soap. Again, use a spoon to spread it evenly and create texture. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap and get rid of bubbles.

TEN: Continue to layer the soap into the mold with the same color sequence: white soap, black soap, purple soap. Use up all of the remaining soap for the second layer.

ELEVEN: Once the last of the purple soap is poured into the soap, use a spoon to mound the soap in the center and create peaks. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so just have fun with it!

TWELVE: Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle the used black tea leaves down the center of the soap. Lightly press them (with gloves on) into the soap to help them stick once cut. Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because this soap has a tendency to form glycerin rivers, keep it cool. Do not cover or insulate. If you live in a hot climate, consider placing the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to keep it cool. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Because it does have a heavy water discount, 4 weeks should do the trick. Enjoy!

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Black Tea Soap Tutorial

This soap is made with black tea in place of water, and is topped with black tea leaves.

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom
• Silicone Liner for 5 Pound Mold
• 2.7 oz. Cocoa Butter 5%
• 13.5 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 2.7 oz. Matcha Green Tea Butter 5%
• 16.2 oz. Olive Oil 30%
• 13.5 oz. Palm Oil 25%
• 5.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil 10%
• 14.3 oz. Brewed Black Tea 20% water discount
• 7.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 2 oz. Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Activated Charcoal
• Purple Brazilian Clay
• Black Tea Leaves for the top & to brew tea
• Large Sealable Tea Bag for brewing tea

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap.To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 3 teaspoon of the colorant into 3 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1 tablespoon of liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to work out any clumps. Then, disperse 3 teaspoons of purple Brazilian clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water. Because clays absorb moisture, we recommend dispersing them in water rather than oil. Use a mini mixer or small spoon to disperse the clay.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil into a glass container that is safe for use with fragrance oil. Set aside.

BLACK TEA PREP: First, boil 16 ounces distilled water to prepare the tea. It’s best to prep more tea than you need, because you will lose some during the steeping process. Add 4 tablespoons of black tea into the Large Sealable Tea Bag. If you’d like the tea to be stronger or lighter, you can use more or less tea. Iron the tea bag closed, and place in the hot distilled water.<br>Allow the tea to steep and cool for about 1 hour. Remove the tea bag and wait for the tea to cool to about 70 ° F. The cooler the mixture, the lighter the color of the lye mixture will be.If you’d like, you can also freeze the tea and add the lye to the frozen tea, similar to adding lye to milk, as shown here.<br>Measure out 14.3 ounces of tea. If you don’t have enough, add more distilled water. Save the tea leaves to place on top of the soap if you’d like. Place them on a paper towel to dry until you’re ready to use.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the black tea and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. The mixture will be a brown color. Do not panic. That’s what the titanium dioxide is for. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, matcha green tea butter, sweet almond oil, and palm oil. Remember to fully melt and then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until you have a thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 3.5 tsp. of sodium lactate.
• Once you reach a very thin trace, add all the Bergamot Black Tea Fragrance Oil. It’s okay to add the fragrance at the beginning because it behaves very well in soap.
• Split off about 26 ounces of soap into a separate container. Add 2 teaspoons of dispersed activated charcoal, and use a whisk to fully mix in. Set aside.
• Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide into the large amount of remaining soap. Use the stick blender to fully incorporate the titanium dioxide. Then split the batch in half. Each should weigh about 26 ounces. Add all the dispersed purple Brazilian clay to one container. Use the stick blender to incorporate the clay. Leave the other container of soap uncolored.
• Now it’s time to start layering! First, make sure all the colors of soap are a medium to thick trace. Stick blend each from lightest to darkest until a medium to thick texture is achieved. Because they all have different amounts of various colorants, they may thicken at different rates.
• Once you’re happy with the texture of each color, pour half of the uncolored soap into the mold and use a spoon to even it throughout the mold. Use the spoon to give the layer texture, because this design does not need exact straight layers.
• Pour half of the black soap onto the white. Be careful not to let the black soap fall through the first layer of white. Use a spoon to gently cover the white soap. Use the spoon to spread it evenly, and to give it texture.
• Cover the black soap with half of the purple soap. Again, use a spoon to spread it evenly and create texture. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help evenly disperse the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Continue to layer the soap into the mold with the same color sequence: white soap, black soap, purple soap. Use up all of the remaining soap for the second layer.
• Once the last of the purple soap is poured into the soap, use a spoon to mound the soap in the center and create peaks. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so just have fun with it!
• Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle the used black tea leaves down the center of the soap. Lightly press them (with gloves on) into the soap to help them stick once cut. Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Because this soap has a tendency to form glycerin rivers, keep it cool. Do not cover or insulate. If you live in a hot climate, consider placing the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to keep it cool. After about 2-3 days, unmold the soap and cut into bars. Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Because it does have a heavy water discount, 4 weeks should do the trick. Enjoy!

The post Black Tea Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

A few weeks ago I shared a recipe for Charcoal & Tea Tree Facial Bars made with cold process soap. I got quite a few requests to create something similar with melt and pour, so these Pure Charcoal Melt & Pour Bars were created! They are made in the brand new Pure Soap Silicone Tray Mold, which was specially designed by the Bramble Berry team. The details in each cavity are deep enough to make filling in each space as easy as possible. This new mold is suitable for cold process and melt and pour as well as lotion bars.

This soap is created with Aloe Vera Melt and Pour Base which contains 5% aloe vera gel. It has a slight green tint, but the activated charcoal covers that right up. Tea tree essential oil gives the bars a refreshing and earthy scent. The soap contains two full teaspoons of charcoal so they’re great for oily skin. The charcoal does create a gray lather but it’s very faint. If you prefer, you can reduce the amount of charcoal to prevent any color in the lather. Learn more about charcoal here.

Want to see this recipe in action? Scroll down to the bottom of this post to watch Anne-Marie make these bars!

What You’ll Need:
Pure Soap Silicone Tray Mold
32 oz. Aloe Vera Melt and Pour
3 oz. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
0.8 oz. Tea Tree Essential Oil
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
Clean Up Tool
Injector Tool

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: Chop 3 ounces of White Melt and Pour Soap Base into small chunks. Place them in a small heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 5-10 second bursts. Melt and pour is easy to burn when melting such a small amount, so use short bursts and do not let the soap boil.

TWO: Cut a very small amount off the tip of the Injector Tool. You still want the hole of the Injector Tool to be small, but making it slightly larger helps prevent it from clogging. Fill a small cup with very hot water. Have the hot water nearby while you fill in the details of the mold with white soap. Use it to clear the Injector Tool if the soap begins to cool and harden in the tool.

THREE: Spritz the mold with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Spritzing the mold allows the soap to spread easily into the details. Fill up the Injector Tool with the white soap and carefully fill in the details of the mold. Have the spray bottle filled with alcohol nearby to get rid of any bubbles. Work carefully but quickly to prevent the soap from hardening in the Injector Tool.

FOUR: Continue filling in the details of each cavity. If you make a mistake, allow the soap to fully cool and harden and use the Clean Up Tool to get rid of imperfections.

FIVE: While the white soap fully hardens, chop 32 ounces of Aloe Vera Melt and Pour Soap Base into small chunks. Place them in a large heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts. Between each burst, stir the soap to help it melt evenly. It can take a few minutes to fully melt depending on the strength of your microwave.

SIX: Mix 2 teaspoons of activated charcoal with 2 tablespoons of 99% isopropyl alcohol. Stir together to help get rid of large clumps. Add all of the dispersed charcoal into the melted soap and stir to fully combine.

SEVEN: Add the tea tree essential oil to the soap and stir to fully combine. Take the temperature of the soap. If the soap is poured into the mold when it’s hotter than 130 ° F, it may melt the white details in the mold. Allow the soap to cool to about 125 ° F.

EIGHT: Spritz the mold with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the charcoal soap adhere to the white soap details. Pour the black soap into the mold, then spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any bubbles. Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for several hours or up to overnight.

NINE: Remove from the mold and cut into bars using a sharp non-serrated knife. To avoid glycerin dew, wrap the bars in plastic wrap or another airtight packaging option. Enjoy!

Want to see this project in action? Check out the Facebook Live video below! See more Facebook videos here. 

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Pure Charcoal Melt & Pour Soap Bars DIY

These bars are made with Aloe Vera Melt and Pour Base and charcoal.

Course Melt and Pour

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Pure Soap Silicone Tray Mold
• 32 oz. Aloe Vera Melt and Pour
• 3 oz. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 2 tsp. Activated Charcoal
• 0.8 oz. Tea Tree Essential Oil
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle
• Clean Up Tool
• Injector Tool

Instructions

• Chop 3 ounces of White Melt and Pour Soap Base into small chunks, place them in a small heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 5-10 second bursts. Melt and pour is easy to burn when melting such a small amount, so use short bursts and do not let the soap boil.
• Cut a very small amount off the tip of the Injector Tool. You still want the hole of the Injector Tool to be small, but making it slightly larger helps avoid the tool from becoming clogged. Fill a small cup with very hot water. Have the hot water nearby while you fill in the details of the mold with white soap. Use it to clear the Injector Tool if the soap begins to cool and harden in the tool.
• Spritz the mold with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Spritzing the mold allows the soap to spread easily into the details. Fill up the Injector Tool with the white soap and carefully fill in the details of the mold. Have the spray bottle filled with alcohol nearby to get rid of any bubbles. Work carefully but quickly to prevent the soap from hardening in the Injector Tool.
• Continue filling in the details of each cavity. If you make a mistake, allow the soap to fully cool and harden and use the Clean Up Tool to get rid of imperfections.
• While the white soap fully hardens, chop 32 ounces of Aloe Vera Melt and Pour Soap Base into small chunks. Place them in a large heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts. Between each burst, stir the soap to help it melt evenly. It can take a few minutes to fully melt depending on the strength of your microwave.
• Mix 2 teaspoons of activated charcoal with 2 tablespoons of 99% isopropyl alcohol. Stir together to help get rid of large clumps. Add all of the dispersed charcoal into the melted soap and stir to fully combine.
• Add the tea tree essential oil to the soap and stir to fully combine. Take the temperature of the soap. If the soap is poured into the mold when it's hotter than 130 ° F, it may melt the white details in the mold. Allow the soap to cool to about 125 ° F.
• Spritz the mold with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help the charcoal soap adhere to the white soap details. Pour the black soap into the mold, then spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any bubbles. Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for several hours, up to overnight.
• Remove from the mold, and cut into bars using a sharp non-serrated knife. To avoid glycerin dew, wrap the bars in plastic wrap or another air tight packaging option. Enjoy!

The post Pure Charcoal Melt & Pour Soap DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Leave your skin feeling smooth with this Charcoal and Clay Face Scrub. Made with a liquid soap base, it has a gentle lather. Additional tamanu oil and hazelnut oil are added because of their amazing skin benefits. In particular, they are great for oily skin types. If you prefer different oil for your skin, feel free to swap them out. Just keep in mind it may change the consistency a bit!

The Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base is made exclusively from olive oil, resulting in a very mild soap. It has a light lather and gentle cleansing properties so it’s suitable for delicate facial skin. If you have extremely dry skin, this recipe may not be the best as it contains kaolin clay and charcoal, which may be drying. Decreasing the amount of kaolin clay and charcoal may help make it suitable for dry skin types; a small test batch may help you find the right ratio for you.

Medium sized jojoba beads give this scrub a gentle amount of exfoliation. Jojoba beads are great for the face because they are round and won’t scratch delicate face skin. The amount of scrub in this recipe is light; if you prefer more exfoliation feel free to add more jojoba beads. Don’t get jojoba beads confused with micro-beads – they are quite different! Learn about the difference here.

What You’ll Need:
Six 4 oz. Jars
10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
6 oz. Hazelnut Oil
0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil
11 oz. Kaolin Clay
4 oz. White Jojoba Beads – Medium
0.3 oz. Activated Charcoal
3 mL Tea Tree Essential Oil
0.1 oz. Optiphen
Dropper
Optional: Charcoal Soap & Scrub Label Template -Free PDF

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a large mixing bowl, add the Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base, hazelnut and tamanu oil. Stir until completely combined. The mixture will take on a milky appearance.

TWO: Add the tea tree essential oil and Optiphen. Stir in completely.
NOTE ABOUT PRESERVATIVES: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful, but it is optional. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.

THREE: In a separate container, whisk together the kaolin clay, activated charcoal and jojoba beads until completely combined.

FOUR: Add the clay mixture into the liquid mixture in about 3-4 batches. Use a whisk to completely mix in. Adding the dry ingredients in batches helps prevent the dry ingredients from “poofing” up. Continue mixing until completely combined with no clumps. Pour the scrub into jars and seal with the lid.

When you’re ready to use, apply a small amount of the scrub to wet skin. Use gentle circular motions to scrub and wash the face. Avoid the immediate eye area. Rinse off. Follow with moisturizer or other skin care. Enjoy!

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Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub DIY

This face scrub is cleansing and great for oil skin.

Course Face Scrub

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 6 jars

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Six 4 oz. Jars
• 10 oz. Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
• 6 oz. Hazelnut Oil
• 0.5 oz. Tamanu Oil
• 11 oz. Kaolin Clay
• 4 oz. White Jojoba Beads – Medium
• 0.3 oz. Activated Charcoal
• 3 mL Tea Tree Essential Oil
• 0.1 oz. Optiphen
• Dropper

Instructions

• In a large mixing bowl, add the Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base, hazelnut and tamanu oil. Stir until completely combined. The mixture will take on a milky appearance.
• Add the tea tree essential oil and Optiphen. Stir in completely.
• In a separate container, whisk together the kaolin clay, activated charcoal and jojoba beads until completely combined.
• Add the clay mixture into the liquid mixture in about 3-4 batches. Use a whisk to completely mix in. Adding the dry ingredients in batches helps prevent the dry ingredients from "poofing" up. Continue mixing until completely combined with no clumps. Pour the scrub into jars and seal with the lid.
• When you’re ready to use, apply a small amount of the scrub to wet skin. Use gentle circular motions to scrub and wash the face. Avoid the immediate eye area. Rinse off. Follow with moisturizer, or other skin care. Enjoy!

The post Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

Activated charcoal has become a popular ingredient for skin care products in the past few years. But it’s not new – charcoal has been used in the beauty and medical industries for years. Charcoal is known for its ability to absorb and draw out oil from the skin. This makes charcoal a fantastic addition to soaps, scrubs, masks and more.

There are various types, including activated charcoal, sugar charcoal and Japanese charcoal (aka white charcoal). The different types of charcoal have various origins and production methods. “Regular” charcoal usually comes from wood, coal or peat. This type of charcoal is often used as fuel. Activated charcoal, on the other hand, is most commonly used for medical, beauty or purification processes. To become “activated,” the charcoal goes through a high temperature steam activation process. This process increases its surface area, which increases the charcoal’s ability to absorb and filter. This makes activated charcoal the proper choice for medical and cosmetic use.

In particular, activated charcoal is fantastic for oily skin. Its ability to absorb oil and dirt from pores leaves skin feeling balanced. If you have dry skin, activated charcoal may be a little bit too drying. Some use charcoal in their hair care to add volume, and some even use it in their tooth care regimen (keep in mind the charcoal at Bramble Berry is not meant to be consumed in anyway).

Want to add charcoal to your bath and body products? Interestingly, activated charcoal is not water soluble. A great example of this was in the Black Bath Bombs Test; the bath bombs made with activated charcoal left plenty of residue on the tub, because the charcoal did not want to mix with the water. A touch of Polysorbate 80 helped the activated charcoal blend in better with the water.

Activated charcoal is not water soluble, and does not work well in bath bombs without an emulsifier as shown in this post.

If you’re adding charcoal to your project, dispersing it in oil helps it mix in easier. Use 1 teaspoon charcoal to 1 tablespoon 99% isopropyl alcohol for melt and pour soap and a lightweight liquid oil for cold process soap. Activated charcoal can be added directly to melt and pour or cold process soap batter, but dispersing does help get rid of clumps. If you’d like to try adding it to emulsified projects like lotion, I recommend a small test batch first. We actually tried adding it to the clay mask recipes (which are essentially lotions) and found the charcoal did not mix in very well, even with plenty of stick blending (see photo below).

In our tests, activated charcoal did not mix in very well to emulsified clay masks. 

In addition to the skin benefits, activated charcoal gives products a beautiful black color. Charcoal can create a gray lather and transfer color to a washcloth if a lot is used in a recipe. In my experience, I have not found charcoal soap stains washcloths permanently. If you use enough charcoal to create a dark black color, chances are it will give your lather a little color. For cold process and melt and pour soap, start with 1 teaspoon of dispersed charcoal per pound of soap. Add more color until you get the shade you like. A light to dark gray shade in soap will most likely not create a gray lather.

Charcoal is dispersed in oil and added to the soap batter in the Charcoal & Cedar Beer Soap Tutorial. 

Now, let’s talk about handling activated charcoal. There is no way around it – this stuff is messy. It’s a very small and light powder, so it has a tendency to “poof” up into the air. If you’ve used activated charcoal, you know it can have a tendency to get everywhere. When working with it, I recommend closing windows and shutting off any fans to help avoid an unnecessary mess. If you do get charcoal on your hands while working with it, I recommend washing it off with water and soap. Once, I left activated charcoal on my knuckles for about an hour while formulating recipes. My knuckles were extremely dry for about a week! It has some serious absorbing properties.

Looking for some charcoal recipe inspiration? Check out the tutorials below, and be on the lookout for more recipes this week!

• Rose Clay & Charcoal Soap Tutorial
• Gold Mine Cold Process Soap
• Wild Leopard Print Cold Process Soap
• Honey Bee Funnel Pour Cold Process Soap
• Creamy Cow Milk Cold Process Soap
• Charcoal & Cedar Beer Cold Process Tutorial
• Rose Gold & Charcoal Heart Soap
• Honey Bee Soap Tutorial
• Dragon’s Breath Cold Process Soap
• Charcoal and Rose Clay Spa Bar
• Minty Clay Melt & Pour Bar
• Natural Colorant Taiwan Swirl

The post Activated Charcoal Skin Benefits & Tips for Use appeared first on Soap Queen.

After the holidays, I always feel the need for a bit of detoxing and rejuvenation. That desire to hit the reset button inspired this soap recipe, which contains rose clay and charcoal. Both are known for their oil-absorbing properties. Charcoal in particular binds to dirt and oil in the skin, bringing them to the surface. In these bars, charcoal is sprinkled in between layers to create rustic-looking stripes.

The rose clay in this recipe is dispersed in distilled water rather than oil to help compensate for the absorption properties. Learn more about working with clays in your products. The clay, along with Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, will cause the trace to become thick rather quickly. For this design that’s totally okay. These bars are meant to have a natural and rustic look to them, so you don’t need to worry about the layers being straight or the top being smooth. These bars really play up the thick texture!

After a few washes, the rose petals will fall off. But, I think they are totally worth it – they really are the cherry on top! Of course if you want to skip them, feel free. When it’s time to cut the bars, the rose petals can get caught under the knife and create drag marks. I threw caution to the wind and used the Multi-Bar Cutter. That created drag marks on about half the bars. But, I think they actually contribute to the “natural” look and feel. Depending on your preference, cut the bars on the side to avoid the drag marks, or embrace them by cutting straight down.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
36 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
11.8 oz. Distilled Water
5.2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 tsp. Rose Clay + 2 Tbs. Distilled Water
1/2 tsp. Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
Activated Charcoal
2 oz. Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil
Rose Petals
Optional: Powder Duster


Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

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If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 2 teaspoons of rose clay into 2 tablespoons of distilled water. Stir until there are no chunks. Dispersing the clay in water helps compensate for the water it absorbs. Then, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of Fired Up Fuchsia into 1/2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps. Have a couple teaspoons of activated charcoal nearby to sprinkle in between layers, and rose petals nearby to place on top.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Fully melt the bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Give the bag a good shake to mix the oils, and measure 36 ounces of the oil into your soaping bowl. Slowly add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate. Stick blend the soap until it’s at a thin trace.

THREE: Add all the dispersed rose clay and one teaspoon of the dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk to fully mix in both colorants.

FOUR: Add the Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, and whisk until completely blended in. Now it’s time to create layers!

FIVE: Use a spoon or spatula to add about 1/3 of the soap mixture into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to spread it in the bottom of the mold. Then, use the spoon to create texture. We aren’t going for perfectly straight lines, so just have fun with the shape!

SIX: Add a small amount of the activated charcoal into the powder duster, and lightly dust the charcoal over the top of the soap. Do your best to only apply a thin layer. If too much charcoal is applied, the soap layers may not stick together.

SEVEN: Use a spoon to add about 1/3 of the soap batter on top of the first layer, and spread it evenly on top. Then, create texture with the spoon.

EIGHT: Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Dust another thin and even layer of charcoal onto the second layer. Spoon the remaining soap into the mold, and spread the soap with the spoon to evenly cover the charcoal. Use the spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to create a textured top, but don’t be afraid to create some dramatic peaks. The soap will be quite thick, so you may need to be more heavy-handed with the pressure you apply to the soap than usual.

NINE: Once you’re happy with the look of the top, sprinkle rose petals on top of the entire loaf, concentrating the petals in the center. Gently press the petals into the soap to help them stick. Spritz with 99% alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 1-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. If you would like to prevent drag marks from the petals, lay the loaf on its side and cut from the side. I cut the soap regularly and embraced the rustic look of a few drag marks on some of the bars.

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Rose Clay & Charcoal Soap Tutorial

This soap is made with rose clay and charcoal for a natural look.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 36 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
• 11.8 oz. Distilled Water
• 5.2 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 2 tsp. Rose Clay + 2 Tbs. Distilled Water
• 1/2 tsp. Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant
• Activated Charcoal
• 2 oz. Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil
• Rose Petals
• Optional: Powder Duster

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 2 teaspoons of rose clay into 2 tablespoons of distilled water. Stir until there are no chunks. Dispersing the clay in water helps compensate for the water is absorbs. Then, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of Fired Up Fuchsia into 1/2 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to help get rid of any clumps. Have a couple teaspoons of activated charcoal nearby to sprinkle in between layers, and rose petals nearby to dust on top.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Fully melt the bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Give the bag a good shake to mix the oils, and measure 36 ounces of the oil into your soaping bowl. Slowly add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate. Stick blend the soap until it’s at a thin trace.
• Add all the dispersed rose clay and one teaspoon of the dispersed Fired Up Fuchsia Colorant. Use a whisk to fully mix in both colorants.
• Add the Rosehip Jasmine Fragrance Oil, and whisk until completely blended in. Now it’s time to create layers!
• Use a spoon or spatula to add about 1/3 of the soap mixture into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Use a spoon to spread it in the bottom of the mold. Then, use the spoon to create texture. We aren’t going for perfectly straight lines, so just have fun with the shape!
• Add a small amount of the activated charcoal into the powder duster, and lightly dust the charcoal over the top of the soap. Do your best to only apply a thin and even layer. If too much charcoal is applied, the soap layers may not stick together.
• Use a spoon to add about 1/3 of the soap batter on top of the first layer, and spread it evenly on top. Then, create texture with the spoon.
• Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles. Dust another thin and even layer of charcoal onto the second layer. Spoon the remaining soap into the mold, and spread the soap with the spoon to evenly cover the charcoal. Use the spoon to create a textured top. There is no right or wrong way to create a textured top, but don’t be afraid to create some dramatic peaks. The soap will be quite thick, so you may need to be more heavy-handed with the pressure you apply to the soap than usual.
• Once you’re happy with the look of the top, sprinkle rose petals on top of the entire loaf, concentrating the petals in the center. Gently press the petals into the soap to help them stick. Spritz with 99% alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 1-3 days. Unmold, and cut into bars. If you would like to prevent drag marks from the petals, lay the loaf on its side and cut from the side. I cut the soap regularly and embraced the rustic look of a few drag marks on some of the bars.

The post Rose Clay & Charcoal Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.