Lavender is one of the most popular essential oils, and for good reason. It adds a relaxing floral scent to a variety of products, like this super easy Linen Spray. It has only three ingredients, including Lavender Fine Essential Oil. The Lavender and Honeyquat Lotion is made with Lavender Absolute 50%, which has a sweet smell reminiscent of honey. Sleep Time Bath Truffles, scented with Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil, are the perfect way to relax. Of course, you can’t forget handmade soap – the Lavender Kombucha recipe features a purple and white swirl and a finishing touch of lavender buds.

Clockwise, left: Lavender Kombucha Soap, Lavender Linen Spray, Lavender and Honeyquat Lotion, Lavender Sleep Time Bath Truffles

Lavender isn’t the only option for your handmade soap. The Turmeric Secret Swirl Soap is made with spicy ginger essential oil, which complements the warm color. To complement the black and white color palette in the Charcoal Beer Soap, we added a mix of cedarwood essential oil and fir needle essential oil. The Kokum Butter Cold Process Soap has a simple design, with ground pumpkin seeds for exfoliation and eucalyptus essential oil for a refreshing scent. If you’re a licorice fan, you’ll love the combination of anise essential oil and orange 10X essential oil in the Star Anise Melt and Pour Bars.

Clockwise, top left: Charcoal and Cedar Beer Soap, Kokum Butter Cold Process Soap, Star Anise Melt and Pour Bars, Turmeric Secret Swirl Soap

The Avocado Cold Process Soap is scented with spearmint essential oil, which gives the bars a sweet and minty scent. Its green hue comes from a mixture of fresh avocado puree, French green clay, and spirulina powder. Poppy seeds complete the simple and natural design.

If you want to feel energized, start your morning off with an essential oil scrub. The Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub is made with tea tree essential oil. The Turmeric and Ginger Body Scrub has sugar to help cleanse and exfoliate the skin. To put a little pep in your step, try the Invigorating Foot Soak. It’s made with peppermint essential oil.

Clockwise, top left: Invigorating Foot Soak, Turmeric and Ginger Body Scrub, Cleansing Charcoal Facial Scrub

After scrubbing the skin, follow up with Frankincense Body Balm. It’s made with moisturizing avocado oil and kokum butter, and scented with frankincense essential oil. The Ginger and Moringa Oil Conditioner will leave your hair feeling smooth and silky.

Left to right: Frankincense Essential Oil Body Balm, Ginger and Moringa Oil Conditioner

Looking for more essential oil inspiration? The #BrambleOn tag on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter is full of beautiful products made with a variety of scents. See a few of our favorites below.

Top row, left to right: muddymint, baabblysoap, l3osoaps
Middle row, left to right: thesoapmine, elegantsoapco, soapsbyhailey
Bottom row, left to right: owlnaturalsoaps, dalliancesoapcompany, nerdyfarmwife

The post Essential Oil Inspiration appeared first on Soap Queen.

Lavender is well known for its relaxing smell. It’s no wonder it’s commonly used in products meant to calm and soothe. This Luxurious Lavender Bath Salt recipe is made with Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil. Bulgaria is known for its abundant lavender fields, and for the amazing oil the plants produce. If you’re a fan of lavender, then Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil is sure to be a new favorite.

This recipe uses a combination of Epsom salt and pink sea salts. Interestingly, Epsom salt is not actually a salt at all! Epsom salt is made of hydrated magnesium sulfate. Magnesium and sulfate are known for their hydrating properties, making Epsom salt a popular choice for bath salts.

Pink Himalayan sea salt is a rock salt mined from ancient salt beds within the Himalayan Mountains. Protected from pollution and impurities since its formation 200 million years ago, pink Himalayan salt is believed to be one of the purest forms of salt available. The color of sea salts range from white to a deep shade of pink. This recipe uses two sizes of pink sea salt (medium and coarse) to give texture, but you can use only one size if you prefer.

What You Need:
Four 8 oz. Bail Jars
20 oz. Epsom Salt, Extra Fine
3 oz. Pink Sea Salt, Medium
3 oz. Pink Sea Salt, Coarse
2 mL (about 40 drops) Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil
1 Tbsp. Dried Lavender
3 Tbsp. Cornflower Petals

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a large mixing bowl, combine the Epsom salt and both sizes of pink sea salt. Mix together.

TWO: Add the Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil. Use your hands to thoroughly mix in.

THREE: Add the lavender buds and cornflower petals. Mix in thoroughly.

FOUR: Transfer the salt to the bail jars. Store the salts in a dry cool place. Once you’re ready to use, add a large handful to hot bath water. Enjoy!
Note: This recipe originally used 10 ounce jars. It now comes with four 8 oz. jars.

Print

Luxurious Lavender Bath Salt DIY

Cook Time 15 minutes minutes

Total Time 15 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Four 8 oz. Bail Jars
• 20 oz. Epsom Salt Extra Fine
• 3 oz. Pink Sea Salt Medium
• 3 oz. Pink Sea Salt Coarse
• 2 mL about 40 drops Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil
• 1 Tbs. Dried Lavender
• 3 Tbs. Cornflower Petals

Instructions

• In a large mixing bowl, combine the Epsom salt and both sizes of pink sea salt. Mix together.
• Add the Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil. Use your hands to thoroughly mix in.
• Add the lavender buds and cornflower petals. Mix in thoroughly.
• Transfer the salt to the bail jars. Store the salts in a dry cool place. Once you’re ready to use, add a large handful to hot bath water. Enjoy!

The post Luxurious Lavender Bath Salt DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

The scent of lavender is immediately recognizable. Today its floral, herby, and earthy notes add a special touch to everything from lotion to lemonade. That’s not a new concept, though – people have been taking advantage of lavender’s intoxicating scent for centuries.

Origins
The word lavender comes from the Latin lavare, which means “to wash.” Ancient Romans used the plant to scent their bath water because they thought it restored the skin, according to the New World Encyclopedia. They believed lavender had medicinal properties, and used it for everything from indigestion to sore throats. The Romans also used it to perfume their hair, clothes, beds, and even the walls of their houses.

Ancient Greeks used it for perfume as well. They referred to lavender as nardus or nard after the Syrian city of Naarda, where lavender was often sold. Egyptians used it for embalming and for cosmetics like massage oils.

Lavender’s popularity continued throughout history. It wasn’t used as much in the Dark Ages, but regained popularity during the Tudor period in England, 1485-1603. When Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, people started growing lavender in their home gardens. It was used to freshen the air and was mixed with beeswax to make furniture polish, according to the Kitchen Project. In the Victorian era, 1837-1901, the Queen of England loved lavender and spoke of it often. Women used it to wash walls and furniture, as perfume and potpourri, and as a treatment for lice. In the U.S., it was popular in medicine and gift items.

Present day
Many of the ways lavender was used throughout history are still popular today. No matter what store you’re in, you can always find bath and body products or perfumes with lavender notes. The Romans would be happy to know it’s still used in bath and cleaning products, along with wax tarts, room sprays, and potpourri.

Lavender adds an interesting floral taste to a variety of foods. It’s used in lemonade, lattes, cupcakes, ice cream, and more. The Baker Mama used it in her Lemon Lavender Poppy Seed Scones to add a bright and unique taste.

Of course, handmade products are a perfect way to enjoy the scent of lavender. The Relaxing Lavender Soap is scented with Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil, colored a lavender hue with Ultramarine Violet Oxide Pigment, and topped with lavender buds. For a spa day at home, give the DIY Lavender Clay Mask a try. It also works well in hair products, like this Hydrating Lavender Hair Oil.

How the essential oil is made
We have four new varieties you can add to your handmade products – Lavender Fine Essential Oil, Lavender Absolute 50%, Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil, and Organic Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil. The Lavender Fine and Lavender Absolute are both from France. Lavender Fine is steam distilled. This method uses steam to break apart the plant and collect the resulting vapor. The vapor is condensed and separated into two parts – water and oil. The oil is then collected, bottled, and sent to your home. The Lavender Absolute is extracted by the solvent method, which is typically used when the plant is too fragile to withstand steam distillation. That creates a super thick, dark green liquid. It can be so thick that it’s tricky to work with, so ours is mixed with fractionated coconut oil.

Pictured is the farm in France where the Lavender Fine Essential Oil comes from.

Both Bulgarian lavenders are extracted using steam distillation. The farms in Bulgaria are bigger, but the farming and distillation techniques used are similar to the farms in France. As a result, most of the difference between the oils is the way they smell. The Lavender Fine Essential Oil has a bright, herbaceous smell similar to citrus, and the Lavender Absolute 50% has a sweet and soft aroma. The Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil has a deeper, darker scent. Compared to it, the Organic Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil is lighter and has more more camphorous minty notes. Organic fields have a more “shabby” look, rather than the uniform appearance of the field pictured above. They also have a lesser yield than lavender grown by traditional methods.

On the left is the farm where the Organic Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil comes from, and right is a closeup of the “shabbier” look of the plants.

Whether you’re adding lavender to your handmade soap or your latte, there’s no denying its intoxicating and calming scent. What’s your favorite thing to use lavender in?

The post The History of Lavender appeared first on Soap Queen.

Lavender is a classic and relaxing scent that almost everyone loves. You can now try four new versions of the old favorite – Lavender Fine Essential Oil, Lavender Absolute 50%, Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil, and Organic Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil.

Lavender Fine Essential Oil: This has a bright, herbaceous scent with a touch of citrus. It performs beautifully and doesn’t discolor in cold process soap.

Lavender Absolute  50%: This oil has a sweet, honey-like scent. It’s diluted 50% by weight with fractionated coconut oil for ease of use. It performs beautifully in cold process soap and discolors green.

Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil: This oil is a deeper floral that smells earthy and dark. It performs beautifully and doesn’t discolor in cold process soap.

Organic Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil: Compared to Bulgarian Lavender Essential Oil, this one is lighter and has more camphorous minty notes. It performs beautifully and doesn’t discolor in cold process soap.

There are also four other new products that are a perfect complement to the essential oils – allantoin powder, cornflower petals, honeyquat, and evening primrose oil. Find all the new products here. Check back here during the next few weeks for recipe inspiration, including relaxing bath salts and a luxurious lotion. They’ll make you fall in love with lavender all over again.

Which scent are you most excited to try? Share using the tag #BrambleOn.

The post New Lavender Essential Oils appeared first on Soap Queen.

Last year, I experimented with brewing my own kombucha, which is a fermented and sweetened tea. I ended up with so much kombucha that I created kombucha soap with the SCOBY to use it up. This recipe uses kombucha produced by a local company, Kombucha Town. Kombucha Town has become a fixture in our community with their local brewery and products in local grocery stores. Using locally brewed products in your recipe highlights the town you call home.

This soap was made with Kombucha Town’s lavender kombucha, so it only made sense to create lavender soap! It’s scented with Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil for a calming scent. A mixture of titanium dioxide and Lavender Mica create a soft purple swirl. It’s topped with dried lavender for a finishing touch. It’s debatable whether or not any of the beneficial properties of kombucha tea hold up during the saponification process. But, the extra sugar does boost lather and kombucha soap is great from a marketing perspective.

If you’ve never made soap with alternative liquids like kombucha, they do require extra prep. First, the kombucha needs to be boiled to get rid of the carbonation. Then, it’s frozen to help keep temperatures cool when the lye flakes are added. You could add the lye to room temperature or cold kombucha if you prefer. Using room temperature or cold kombucha will result in a darker lye solution, and may require more titanium dioxide. This recipe contains a 3% superfat to compensate for the large amount of dispersed colorant in the recipe. The large amount of titanium dioxide can create glycerin rivers, so this recipe has a 10% water discount to prevent that.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
39 oz. Swirl Recipe Quick Mix
5.5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye (3% superfat)
11.6 oz. Prepped Kombucha (10% “water” discount)
Lavender Mica
Titanium Dioxide
2 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
Lavender Buds

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

KOMBUCHA PREP: Before lye is mixed with kombucha, it needs to be prepped. Adding lye to carbonated beverages does not work well, so the kombucha is boiled first to get rid of the carbonation. Some kombucha can also have a small amount of alcohol, so boiling helps get rid of that as well. Pour about 1.5x the amount of kombucha that you need into a saucepan. Some of the kombucha will boil off, so adding more than you need helps ensure you’ll have enough for your entire recipe. For this recipe, I used one 16 oz. can of kombucha and needed to supplement a little with distilled water later in the process.

Turn the heat to medium high and allow the kombucha to reach a rolling boil. Let it boil for about 5 minutes.

Weigh out 11.6 ounces of the kombucha into a separate container. If you don’t have enough, you can add distilled water later. If you have too much, save the rest for another batch. Then, pour the kombucha into an ice cube tray and place in the freezer. Allow the kombucha to fully freeze. Once frozen, place a container appropriate for mixing lye onto a scale and hit the tare button. Empty the frozen kombucha into the container and extra distilled water if necessary (we added about an ounce of water).

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

KOMBUCHA LYE PREP: With safety gear on, measure out the sodium hydroxide lye flakes into a container. Then, add about 1/4 of the sodium hydroxide lye flakes directly to the frozen kombucha. Stir together for several minutes. Then, add about another 1/4 of the lye flakes and stir. The lye flakes will begin to dissolve and heat up the kombucha ice cubes. As the kombucha heats up, it will begin to change color and emit an unpleasant odor – this is normal!

Continue slowly adding the lye flakes and stirring. This process can take some time, so be patient. Once all the lye flakes have been added, continue to stir for several minutes. Because the kombucha is cold, the lye flakes do not dissolve as quickly. The more lye that is added, the more the color of the kombucha will change.

Continue to stir until you no longer see or hear any undissolved lye flakes on the bottom of the container. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases from the mold quicker, you can add sodium lactate at a rate of 1 tsp. per pound of oils. For this recipe you’d add about 2.5 tsp. of sodium lactate. Set lye aside in a safe place while you prep the other ingredients.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 3 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into 3 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil, like sweet almond oil or sunflower oil. Then in a separate container, disperse 2 teaspoons Lavender Mica into 2 tablespoons lightweight liquid oil. Use the mini mixer to help break up any clumps. Set aside.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil into a glass, essential oil safe container. Set aside.

ONE: Fully melt the entire bag of the Swirl Recipe Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Shake to mix and measure out 39 ounces of oil. Once the lye solution and the oils have cooled to 120 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. Most likely, the kombucha lye solution will be on the cooler side – that’s okay.

TWO: Once you reach a thin trace, add all the dispersed titanium dioxide. Use the stick blender to stir and pulse in the colorant until it’s completely combined. If your soap is becoming thick, use a whisk to stir in the colorant instead of using the stick blender.

THREE: Split off about 600 mL of soap into a separate container and add all the dispersed Lavender Mica. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorant.

FOUR: Add the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil proportionately to each container (it’s okay to eyeball it). Use a whisk to fully mix in the essential oil.

FIVE: For the in-the-pot swirl, start by pouring the purple-colored soap into the white-colored soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.

SIX: Insert a chopstick or dowel all the way to the bottom of the bowl. Swirl the tool several times in various directions and loops to get the design started. Don’t worry about being too exact, just try to move the chopstick/dowel through the different areas where the purple soap was poured.

SEVEN: Pour the soap into the mold. Tap it firmly on the counter to help get rid of air bubbles.

EIGHT: Use a spoon to create texture on top of the soap. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it! If you find the soap is not holding its shape, wait a few minutes for the soap to thicken and try again.

NINE: Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle lavender buds down the center of the soap. Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Because kombucha contains sugar, this soap has a tendency to become extra hot. Our soaping area was cold, so the soap was left uncovered at room temperature for the first 24 hours. If you live in a hot climate, you may want to place the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to avoid overheating and cracking. After the soap has been in the mold for about 2-3 days, unmold and cut into bars. To avoid drag marks you can lay the loaf on its side, and cut from the side, down. I used a Multi-Bar Cutter for this batch and embraced the drag marks! Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

Print

Lavender Kombucha Soap Recipe

This soap is made with kombucha instead of distilled water!

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 39 oz. Swirl Recipe Quick Mix
• 5.5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye 3% superfat
• 11.6 oz. Prepped Kombucha 10% “water” discount
• Lavender Mica
• Titanium Dioxide
• 2 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• Lavender Buds

Instructions

KOMBUCHA PREP: Before lye is mixed with kombucha, it needs to be prepped. Adding lye to carbonated beverages does not work well, so the kombucha is boiled first to get rid of the carbonation. Some kombucha can also have a small amount of alcohol, so boiling helps get rid of that as well. Pour about 1.5x the amount of kombucha that you need into a saucepan. Some of the kombucha will boil off, so adding more than you need helps ensure you’ll have enough for your entire recipe. For this recipe, I used one 16 oz. can of kombucha and needed to supplement a little with distilled water later in the process. Turn the heat to medium high and allow the kombucha to reach a rolling boil. Let it boil for about 5 minutes. Weigh out 11.6 ounces of the kombucha into a separate container. If you don’t have enough, you can add distilled water later. If you have too much, save the rest for another batch. Then, pour the kombucha into an ice cube tray and place in the freezer. Allow the kombucha to fully freeze. Once frozen, place a container appropriate for mixing lye onto a scale and hit the tare button. Empty the frozen kombucha into the container and extra distilled water if necessary (we added about an ounce of water).

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

KOMBUCHA LYE PREP: With safety gear on, measure out the sodium hydroxide lye flakes into a container. Then, add about 1/4 of the sodium hydroxide lye flakes directly to the frozen kombucha. Stir together for several minutes. Then, add about another 1/4 of the lye flakes and stir. The lye flakes will begin to dissolve and heat up the kombucha ice cubes. As the kombucha heats up, it will begin to change color and emit an unpleasant odor – this is normal! Continue slowly adding the lye flakes and stirring. This process can take some time, so be patient. Once all the lye flakes have been added, continue to stir for several minutes. Because the kombucha is cold, the lye flakes do not dissolve as quickly. The more lye that is added, the more the color of the kombucha will change. Continue to stir until you no longer see or hear any undissolved lye flakes on the bottom of the container. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases from the mold quicker, you can add sodium lactate at a rate of 1 tsp. per pound of oils. For this recipe you’d add about 2.5 tsp. of sodium lactate. Set lye aside in a safe place while you prep the other ingredients.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 3 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into 3 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil, like sweet almond oil or sunflower oil. Then in a separate container, disperse 2 teaspoons Lavender Mica into 2 tablespoons lightweight liquid oil. Use the mini mixer to help break up any clumps. Set aside.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil into a glass, essential oil safe container. Set aside.

• Fully melt the entire bag of the Swirl Recipe Quick Mix until there is no cloudiness. Shake to mix and measure out 39 ounces of oil. Once the lye solution and the oils have cooled to 120 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. Most likely, the kombucha lye solution will be on the cooler side – that’s okay.
• Once you reach a thin trace, add all the dispersed titanium dioxide. Use the stick blender to stir and pulse in the colorant until it’s completely combined. If your soap is becoming thick, use a whisk to stir in the colorant instead of using the stick blender.
• Split off about 600 mL of soap into a separate container and add all the dispersed Lavender Mica. Use a whisk to fully mix in the colorant.
• Add the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil proportionately to each container (it’s okay to eyeball it). Use a whisk to fully mix in the essential oil.
• For the in-the-pot swirl, start by pouring the purple-colored soap into the white-colored soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.
• Insert a chopstick or dowel all the way to the bottom of the bowl. Swirl the tool several times in various directions and loops to get the design started. Don’t worry about being too exact, just try to move the chopstick/dowel through the different areas where the purple soap was poured.
• Pour the soap into the mold. Tap it firmly on the counter to help get rid of air bubbles.
• Use a spoon to create texture on top of the soap. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it! If you find the soap is not holding its shape, wait a few minutes for the soap to thicken and try again.
• Once you’re happy with the top, sprinkle lavender buds down the center of the soap. Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. Because kombucha contains sugar, this soap has a tendency to become extra hot. Our soaping area was cold, so the soap was left uncovered at room temperature for the first 24 hours. If you live in a hot climate, you may want to place the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to avoid overheating and cracking. After the soap has been in the mold for about 2-3 days, unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

The post Lavender Kombucha Soap Recipe appeared first on Soap Queen.

Usually clay masks are designed for oily skin. Because clay absorbs oil, it’s a natural fit. This Lavender Clay Face Mask was specifically formulated for dry and sensitive skin. Don’t let the list of ingredients intimidate you – it’s surprisingly easy to make! Transforming the clay, water and oil into a luxurious mask is a satisfying and rewarding creative process.

This Lavender Clay Mask recipe contains a luxurious blend of argan and avocado oil to moisturize the skin. Argan oil is well known for its nourishing properties, and contains high percentages of vitamins A and E. The oils and distilled water are mixed together with Polawax Emulsifying Wax and BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax. These emulsifiers create a smooth, creamy, lotion-like texture, and prevent separation of the oil and water.

A mixture of kaolin and purple Brazilian clay is added to the water and oils. The majority of the clay in this mask is kaolin clay, which is very fine and gentle. Purple Brazilian clay adds a beautiful color and helps create a thicker mask. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil adds a light scent, but can be omitted if your skin is extremely sensitive. Evening primrose extract adds skin-loving properties, but can easily be swapped for any other extract you may prefer. Find out more about extracts here.

Overall, this mask has a lotion-like texture that spreads easily on the skin. Because it’s formulated with dry skin in mind, it contains a fairly small amount of clay. If you apply a very thin layer to the skin, you’ll find that after about 10 minutes it will dry. But if a heavier application is used, it may not fully dry and will continue to have a wet, lotion feel. If you prefer the mask to fully dry on the skin, increase the amount of total clay in the recipe to about 6 ounces.

A few notes about recipe substitutions and changes:

• Polawax Emulsifying Wax is a highly reliable and strong emulsifier. It could be substituted for the generic version, Emulsifying Wax, if you prefer, although this recipe was not tested with Emulsifying Wax. Due to the clay in the recipe, we splurged and used Polawax Emulsifying Wax to avoid any chance of separation.
• This recipe calls for avocado and argan oil. Other oils can be used instead if you prefer; we recommend staying with liquid oils that absorb easily into the skin. Changing the total amount of oil in the recipe will change the overall texture of the mask.
• Because this recipe is essentially a lotion and contains a large amount of water, a preservative is necessary to prevent mold and bacterial growth. We chose Optiphen, but other water soluble preservatives will work. Learn more about preservatives here.
• Increase the total amount of clay if you want it to be better suited for normal to oily skin types. Decreasing the amount of clay may create a thinner product with more moisturizing properties.
• If you prefer to use different clays, feel free to swap them. Clays have different absorbing properties, which will affect how it feels on the skin. Learn which clay is right for your skin.
• If you have very sensitive skin, fragrance and essential oils can be irritating. Omit from the recipe if you prefer.

What You’ll Need:
Four Short 8 oz. Bail Jars 
21.4 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Argan Oil
1.3 oz. Avocado Oil 
1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax
0.8 oz. BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax
3.5 oz. Kaolin Clay
1 oz. Purple Brazilian Clay
2 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
0.5 oz. Evening Primrose Extract
0.2 oz. Optiphen
Clay Mask Template – Free Downloadable PDF

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

[sq_products]

EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your mask. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.

CLAY PREP: In a small separate container, measure 3.5 ounces of kaolin clay and 1 ounce of purple Brazilian clay. If you like, you can add them to the same container. In the steps below I added them separately, but the purple Brazilian clay can be added along with the kaolin clay if you prefer.

ONE: In a heat-safe container, combine the avocado oil, argan oil, BTMS-50 and Polawax. Heat the container in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts until the waxes have fully melted. Be careful when removing the container, as it will be quite hot. Set aside.

TWO: In a separate large container, heat the distilled water in the microwave (or on the stove top) until it reaches about 160-170 ° F. Once the water reaches the correct temperature, some of it may evaporate. Remeasure and add more distilled water if necessary until you have 21.4 ounces of hot water.

THREE: Check the temperatures of both containers. Each container should be about 160°-180° F. If the oil and wax mixture has cooled, place back into the microwave until fully melted. Place the stick blender into the water and burp it to help get rid of bubbles. Pour the oil and wax mixture into the water and use a spatula to make sure every little bit is added. Begin pulsing the stick blender. The mixture will take on a “milky” appearance once the water, oil and waxes have begun to emulsify. Continue to pulse and stir for about a minute.

FOUR: Begin adding heaping spoonfuls of the kaolin clay (or the kaolin clay and purple Brazilian Clay mixture) and pulsing the stick blender until combined. Continue adding the clay to the mixture and blending in small amounts until all the clay is added.

FIVE: Continue stick blending for about 1-2 minutes. Use a spatula to scrape down any clay that may be on the sides of the bowl. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once the mixture is about 130-140°F, add the Optiphen, Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and primrose extract. Stick blend (don’t forget to burp the stick blender!) the ingredients in until fully mixed.

SIX: If not already added, add the purple Brazilian clay and stick blend until the mixture is fully blended. Continue to stick blend for several more minutes, just to make sure the ingredients are fully emulsified.

SEVEN: Pour the mixture into the bail jars. If you find you have a lot of bubbles on the top, you can spritz the top of the containers with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help get rid of some of them. Allow the containers to cool for several hours with the lid open to avoid condensation. Once fully cooled, the mixture will have become a thick, lotion-like texture. We found that the top of the mask does form a bit of a skin as it dries.

To use, apply a medium layer to dry, clean skin. Avoid the immediate eye area. Allow the mask to sit on the skin for about 10-15 minutes. Use warm water to rinse off. There is no need to wash the skin after, but you can if you prefer. For drier skins, do no use more than one time per week.

Print

DIY Lavender Clay Face Mask

This Lavender Clay Mask is great for dry skin. It's formulated with argan oil, primrose extract and lavender essential oil.

Prep Time 10 minutes minutes

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 30 minutes minutes

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Four Short 8 oz. Bail Jars
• 21.4 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Argan Oil
• 1.3 oz. Avocado Oil
• 1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax
• 0.8 oz. BTMS-50 Conditioning Wax
• 3.5 oz. Kaolin Clay
• 1 oz. Purple Brazilian Clay
• 2 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• 0.5 oz. Evening Primrose Extract
• 0.2 oz. Optiphen

Instructions

EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your mask. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.

CLAY PREP: In a small separate container, measure 3.5 ounces of kaolin clay and 1 ounce of purple Brazilian clay. If you like, you can add them to the same container. In the steps below I added them separately, but the purple Brazilian clay can be added along with the kaolin clay if you prefer.

• In a heat-safe container, combine the avocado oil, argan oil, BTMS-50 and Polawax. Heat the container in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts until the waxes have fully melted. Be careful when removing the container, as it will be quite hot. Set aside.
• In a separate large container, heat the distilled water in the microwave (or on the stove top) until it reaches about 160-170 ° F. Once the water reaches the correct temperature, some of it may evaporate. Remeasure and add more distilled water if necessary until you have 21.4 ounces of hot water.
• Check the temperatures of both containers. Each container should be about 160°-180° F. If the oil and wax mixture has cooled, place back into the microwave until fully melted. Place the stick blender into the water and burp it to help get rid of bubbles. Pour the oil and wax mixture into the water and use a spatula to make sure every little bit is added. Begin pulsing the stick blender. The mixture will take on a “milky” appearance once the water, oil and waxes have begun to emulsify. Continue to pulse and stir for about a minute.
• Begin adding heaping spoonfuls of the kaolin clay (or the kaolin clay and purple Brazilian Clay mixture) and pulsing the stick blender until combined. Continue adding the clay to the mixture and blending in small amounts until all the clay is added.
• Continue stick blending for about 1-2 minutes. Use a spatula to scrape down any clay that may be on the sides of the bowl. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once the mixture is about 130-140°F, add the Optiphen, Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and primrose extract. Stick blend (don’t forget to burp the stick blender!) the ingredients in until fully mixed.
• If not already added, add the purple Brazilian clay and stick blend until the mixture is fully blended. Continue to stick blend for several more minutes, just to make sure the ingredients are fully emulsified.
• Pour the mixture into the bail jars. If you find you have a lot of bubbles on the top, you can spritz the top of the containers with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help get rid of some of them. Allow the containers to cool for several hours with the lid open to avoid condensation. Once fully cooled, the mixture will have become a thick, lotion-like texture. We found that the top of the mask does form a bit of a skin as it dries.
• To use, apply a medium layer to dry, clean skin. Avoid the immediate eye area. Allow the mask to sit on the skin for about 10-15 minutes. Use warm water to rinse off. There is no need to wash the skin after, but you can if you prefer. For drier skins, do no use more than one time per week.

The post DIY Lavender Clay Face Mask appeared first on Soap Queen.

Everybody needs to treat themselves every now and then. If you’re in need of some pampering, there is no need to leave the house. You can enjoy the luxury of the spa at home by whipping up a few easy bath & beauty products. For the next two weeks, be on the lookout for a collection of tutorials to turn your home into a spa. These projects are also great for a crafting with friends if get-togethers are your way of de-stressing.

The first project in this series are these Cucumber & Lavender Bath Bombs. A hot bath is an instant de-stresser, and also preps the skin for scrub and moisturizer. These bath bombs are scented with a calming blend of Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil. The bath bombs also contain Cucumber Extract, which is known for its soothing properties. The extract is dispersed in fractionated coconut oil, which adds a touch of moisturizing properties to the bath water. The green and purple hues are created with La Bomb colorants, which are specifically made for bath bombs. Learn more about them here.

Be on the lookout for a Cucumber Salt Scrub, Lavender Hair Oil, Cucumber & Lavender Facial Water and Lavender Lotion Bar in the next two weeks. By the end, we will all be 100% relaxed and right for the holidays, right? =) If you plan on giving these projects away as gifts, download and print free label templates for the projects.

What You’ll Need:
10 Bath Bomb Mold & Packages, Plastic
3 cups Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
1.5 cups Citric Acid
9 mL Cucumber Extract
3 mL Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil
3 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
Irish Green La Bomb Colorant
Lilac La Bomb Colorant
Dried Lavender Buds
Witch Hazel in Spray Bottle
Droppers
Optional: Lavender Bath Bomb Labels

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE:  In a large bowl, mix together the baking soda and citric acid. To get rid of clumps in the mixture, you can push the powders through a sifter or break up the clumps with your fingers. Citric acid has a tendency to take off nail polish, so wear gloves to protect your manicure. Thoroughly stir the ingredients together.

TWO: Add the cucumber extract, Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil and Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil. Thoroughly mix the wet ingredients into the dry. I have found that using your hands works best for this step!

THREE: Once the mixture is completely incorporated, split the mixture into two even containers. To one container, add drops of the Lilac La Bomb and add drops of the Irish Green La Bomb to the other container. A little La Bomb colorant goes a long way; I used about four drops of each colorant to achieve the colors shown. Use your hands to break up the drops of color and disperse them throughout the mixture.
NOTE: Do keep in mind that your bath bomb will lighten in color once completely dry. 

FOUR: Begin spritzing each container with witch hazel, while mixing with your hands or a spatula. Continue spritzing until the mixture is a texture that holds its shape when squeezed. Below, you can see that the mixture forms a ball when squeezed. This means that the mixture will hold its shape in the mold as well.

FIVE: Once the bath bomb mixture has the correct texture, it’s time to start filling up the molds. Add a small pinch of lavender buds to the center of one half of the mold. Start filling the mold with small amounts of the green, then purple mixture. Once one half of the mold is full, press the bath bomb mixture down to compress it and continue layering the purple and green colors if possible.

SIX: Continue layering the green and purple bath bomb mixtures into the other half of the mold. Press it into the mold to compact it. Add a little extra bath bomb mixture into each half, but don’t press it down. Slightly overfilling with “loose” bath bomb mixture helps the two sides to stick together better. Match up the eyelets of each mold, and press together. To avoid any imperfections on your bath bomb, make sure to direct pressure to the edges of the mold rather than the center. Allow the bath fizzies to harden in the mold for 24 hours. Remove from the mold once you’re ready to use, place in the tub and enjoy!

Print

Cucumber & Lavender Bath Bomb DIY

These Cucumber and Lavender Bath Bombs are incredibly smells fresh, and are perfect for a home spa day.

Course Baht Bomb

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 10 bath bombs

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 Bath Bomb Mold & Packages Plastic
• 3 cups Baking Soda Sodium Bicarbonate
• 1.5 cups Citric Acid
• 9 mL Cucumber Extract
• 3 mL Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil
• 3 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• Irish Green La Bomb Colorant
• Lilac La Bomb Colorant
• Dried Lavender Buds
• Witch Hazel in Spray Bottle
• Droppers

Instructions

• In a large bowl, mix together the baking soda and citric acid. To get rid of clumps in the mixture, you can push the powders through a sifter or break up the clumps with your fingers. Citric acid has a tendency to take off nail polish, so wear gloves to protect your manicure. Thoroughly stir the ingredients together.
• Add the cucumber extract, Cucumber Melon Fragrance Oil and Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil. Thoroughly mix the wet ingredients into the dry. I have found that using your hands works best for this step!
• Once the mixture is completely incorporated, split the mixture into two even containers. To one container, add drops of the Lilac La Bomb and add drops of the Irish Green La Bomb to the other container. A little La Bomb colorant goes a long way; I used about four drops of each colorant to achieve the colors shown. Use your hands to break up the drops of color and disperse them throughout the mixture.
• Begin spritzing each container with witch hazel, while mixing with your hands or a spatula. Continue spritzing until the mixture is a texture that holds its shape when squeezed. Below, you can see that the mixture forms a ball when squeezed. This means that the mixture will hold its shape in the mold as well.
• Once the bath bomb mixture has the correct texture, it’s time to start filling up the molds. Add a small pinch of lavender buds to the center of one half of the mold. Start filling the mold with small amounts of the green, then purple mixture. Once one half of the mold is full, press the bath bomb mixture down to compress it and continue layering the purple and green colors if possible.
• Continue layering the green and purple bath bomb mixtures into the other half of the mold. Press it into the mold to compact it. Add a little extra bath bomb mixture into each half, but don’t press it down. Slightly overfilling with “loose” bath bomb mixture helps the two sides to stick together better. Match up the eyelets of each mold, and press together. To avoid any imperfections on your bath bomb, make sure to direct pressure to the edges of the mold rather than the center. Allow the bath fizzies to harden in the mold for 24 hours. Remove from the mold once you’re ready to use, place in the tub and enjoy!

The post Cucumber & Lavender Bath Bomb DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

In the video, you can see just how easy it is. First, mix the lye solution and allow to cool. If you’re unfamiliar with working with lye, watch this video to learn how to handle it safely. The soap is colored with Ultramarine Violet Oxide Pigment for a light purple hue. For this project, the colorant is added directly to soaping oils. Typically, I would disperse the pigment in oil, but since this soap is one solid color you can save a step by mixing it into your base oils. The colorant can also be added to trace with or without dispersing. Because you use the stick blender so much, the chunks get stick blended out. =)

Next, slowly add the lye solution to the soaping oils and begin stick blending to emulsify. Once the lye and oils have emulsified, add Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil to give a calming lavender scent. The essential oil is a blend of many different lavender essential oils to produce a consistent scent year after year (sort of like the concept of a ‘Red Table Wine’ that is the same from year to year in taste). Blend until it’s at thick trace – about the texture of thick pudding. Once in the mold, use a spoon or spatula to create a peak in the center and top the soap with lavender buds. Lavender buds tend to go brown if used inside soap, but remain a lovely purple if placed on top.

After about 2-3 days the soap can be unmolded and cut into bars. Then, the soap cures for 4-6 weeks to allow water to evaporate. This produces a harder, longer lasting bar of soap. It’s now ready to use or give to friends and family! In addition to free shipping, the Natural Soap Kit for Beginners also includes cute labels that you can cut and wrap around each bar for a professional look.

Soap Recipe:
Most of the items below are supplied in the Natural Beginner Soap Kit. See all contents of the kit here.
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
10 oz. Distilled Water
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
2 tsp. Sodium Lactate
2 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
1 tsp. Ultramarine Violet Oxide Pigment
Lavender Buds
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart and get *free shipping* on this kit!

Print

How to Make Relaxing Lavender Soap

Learn how to make this simple and elegant lavender soap, made with natural ingredients.

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 " Silicone Loaf Mold
• 33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
• 10 oz. Distilled Water
• 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 2 tsp. Sodium Lactate
• 2 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• 1 tsp. Ultramarine Violet Oxide Pigment
• Lavender Buds
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle

Instructions

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• In a durable, heat-safe, non-metal container, measure out 4.7 ounces of sodium hydroxide lye flakes. In a separate durable, heat-safe, non-metal container, measure out 10 ounces of room temperature distilled water. Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. Do not add the water to the lye. As you stir, the mixture will emit fumes; do not breathe them in. The lye mixture will heat to about 180-190 ° F. Label the container “DANGER: LYE” and place in a safe space to cool until about 120-130 ° F. This takes about an hour.
• While the lye solution cools, prep the oils. Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix in the microwave or in a double boiler until there are no chunks or cloudiness. If melting the oils in a double boiler, do not let the bag touch the sides or bottom of the pot, or the plastic bag can melt. Once the oils are completely melted, give the bag a good shake. Measure 33 oz. of oils into a large, non-aluminum bowl capable of holding at least 50 ounces. Set aside.
• Measure 2 ounces of the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.
• The ingredients are now prepped! Check the temperature of your lye solution and oils. To soap, the oils and lye should be 110-130 ° F. If you took off your safety goggles and gloves, place them back on. Once your oils and lye are in that temperature range, carefully add 2 teaspoons of sodium lactate to the lye solution and use a spoon to gently stir in. Wash off spoon immediately. Now, let’s soap!
• Add 1 teaspoon Ultramarine Violet Oxide Pigment directly into the measured bowl of oils. Place the stick blender into the oils, and “burp” it by tapping the head of the blender on the bottom of the bowl. This will release bubbles trapped inside the blender. Pulse the stick blender for about 30 seconds to disperse the colorant and get rid of large chunks.
• Slowly and carefully add the lye solution to the oils. Pulse the stick blender on and off to begin emulsifying the oils and lye together. Continue to pulse the stick blender for 15-20 seconds and then use it to stir the mixture.
• Once you start blending, the mixture will begin to look creamy. After about 1 minute of blending and stirring, the oils and lye will be combined and the soap will be the texture of thin pudding. This is thin trace!
• Add the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil into the soap. Use the stick blender to completely blend in the essential oil.
• At this point, the soap batter will have thickened slightly. As you continue to stick blend, it will become thicker. Continue to stick blend the soap batter until it is the texture of thick pudding and is able to form peaks.
• Once the soap has thickened, pour the batter into the 10” Silicone Loaf Mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to release bubbles. Use a spoon to mound the soap in the center of the mold, forming a peak in the center. If the soap is not holding its shape, allow the soap to sit in the mold for 2-3 minutes, then continue mounding in the center. There is no right or wrong way to create texture on the top of soap, have fun with it!
• Once you’re happy with the top of the soap, sprinkle lavender buds on the top of the soap. Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
• The soap needs to sit and harden in the mold for 2-3 days. It can be hard to wait, but it’s worth it! After two days, pull the sides of the mold away from the soap. If it releases easily, pull the other two sides away from the soap and gently press from the bottom to release the airlock. Gently and carefully, remove the soap and place on a cutting board. If the sides of the mold do not easily release, give the soap another day to harden in the mold.
• Using a sharp, non-serrated knife, cut the soap into bars. To prevent the lavender buds from creating drag marks, lay the soap on its side and cut the bars. Once the loaf is cut into bars, they need to cure for 4-6 weeks. During this time water evaporates from the bar, which creates a firmer and longer lasting bar of soap. Enjoy!

The post How to Make Natural & Relaxing Lavender Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

Hot process soap is a fantastic method to create homemade soap from scratch. Similar to cold process soaping in many ways, hot process involves “cooking” the soap which speeds up the saponification process. In this Soap Queen TV video, I demonstrate how to create natural Lavender & Lemongrass Hot Process Soap in the crock pot. The extra heat cuts down dramatically on wait time! Hot process soap is ready to unmold within 24 hours, and does not require the 4-6 week cure time. Personally, I still like to allow my hot process soaps to cure for about 2 weeks to allow excess water to evaporate and create a harder bar.

This hot process recipe uses a combination of Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil and Lemongrass Essential Oil for a blend that’s both fresh and calming. The light green color is created with green zeolite clay and spirulina powder. Lavender buds are added to the top of the soap for a chic and rustic look. For a charming finishing touch, I used a crinkle cutter. To help avoid drag marks from the lavender buds, I recommend flipping the loaf upside down and cutting from the bottom.

What You’ll Need:
2 lb Wood Loaf Mold
Silicone Liner for 2 lb Wood Mold
2.1 oz. Sweet Almond Oil (Note: In the video the amount of Sweet Almond Oil is 12.1, which is incorrect. I apologize for the confusion!)
1 oz. Avocado Butter
4.2 oz. Coconut Oil
8.4 oz. Olive Oil
4.2 oz. Palm Oil
1 oz. Shea Butter
2.9 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
6.9 oz. Distilled Water
.6 oz. Sodium Lactate
Spirulina Powder
Green Zeolite Clay
Lavender Buds
.8 oz. Lemongrass Essential Oil
.6 oz. Lavender 40/42 Essential
Optional: Crinkle Cutter

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

Have you made hot process soap before? I love to use the hot process method when I need my soap quickly!

The post Lavender & Lemongrass Hot Process Soap on Soap Queen TV appeared first on Soap Queen.

Melted shea butter gives your bath water extra moisturizing properties. It also helps the bath bomb hold its shape. When making bath bombs, witch hazel is a great ingredient to have on hand. In order for the bath bomb to hold its shape, you must achieve a texture similar to wet sand, but adding water can set off the fizz reaction. Spritzing the dry mixture with witch hazel gives a moist, moldable texture without setting off the reaction. You can learn more about witch hazel in the Sunday Night Spotlight: Witch Hazel post.

What You’ll Need:
 3 cups Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda)
1.5 cups Citric Acid
1 oz. Shea Butter
1.5 tsp. Purple Brazilian Clay
1.5 tsp. Pink Brazilian Clay
6 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
Lavender Buds, Grade 1
Witch Hazel
Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE:  In a large bowl, combine sodium bicarbonate and citric acid. Use your hands or a mesh strainer to remove any clumps.

TWO: Once the mixture is smooth, place the shea butter into a heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once completely melted, add to the citric acid and baking soda mixture. Use your hands to fully incorporate the butter into the dry ingredients.

THREE: Add the Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil, and use your hands or a spatula to fully incorporate the essential oil.

FOUR: Split the mixture evenly into three containers, it’s okay to eyeball it. To one container, add the pink Brazilian clay and use your hands or spatula to fully incorporate. To another container, add the purple Brazilian Clay and use your hands or spatula to fully mix in.

FIVE: Depending on the moisture level of the current mixture, spritz the bath bombs with witch hazel. It usually takes between 7-10 spritzes, and the mixture should be wet enough so when you squeeze the powder in your palm, it will stick together. If you don’t have witch hazel, adding extra shea butter will help the dry ingredients stick.

SIX: Once all the colors have reached a mold-able consistency, place a small amount of lavender buds into a half of the bath bomb mold. Just a pinch does the trick! Then place some white bath bomb mixture into the mold, covering the lavender buds. Fill the bath bomb mold about half way full with the white mixture.

SEVEN: Cover the white layer with the pink bath bomb mixture. Once full, set aside that half of the bath bomb mold.

EIGHT: Fill the other half of the bath bomb mold half way with purple bath bomb mixture and pack down. Fill the remainder of the mold with pink bath bomb mixture. Slightly overfill this half with the pink mixture, and squeeze the two halves of the mold together firmly.

NINE: Very gently, pull one half of the mold away. Slightly twisting while pulling away can make this process smoother. It can be a little tricky to get the fizzies to stick together…but practice makes perfect! If they do not stick together the first time, you can try again a few times if they begin to crumble.
TEN: Once one half of the mold is removed, you can leave the bomb in the mold for an hour or so to harden and then gently tip it over and remove the other half of the mold.

ELEVEN: Allow to harden for at least 24 hours. Then package in in cellophane or plastic wrap to protect them against excess moisture and enjoy!

What scent do you find particularly calming and relaxing? One of my favorites is the Relaxing Fragrance Oil, which is a blend of lavender, vanilla and musk.

Print

Lavender & Clay Mondo Bath Fizzy

Course Bath Fizzy

Servings 3 bath bombs

Ingredients

• 3 cups Sodium Bicarbonate baking soda
• 1.5 cups Citric Acid
• 1 oz. Shea Butter
• 1.5 tsp. Purple Brazilian Clay
• 1.5 tsp. Pink Brazilian Clay
• 6 mL Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
• Lavender Buds Grade 1
• Witch Hazel optional
• Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold

Instructions

• In a large bowl, combine sodium bicarbonate and citric acid. Use your hands or a mesh strainer to remove any clumps.
• Once the mixture is smooth, place the shea butter into a heat safe container and melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Once completely melted, add to the citric acid and baking soda mixture. Use your hands to fully incorporate the oils into the dry ingredients.
• Add the lavender 40/42 essential oil, and use your hands or a spatula to fully in the essential oil.
• Split the mixture evenly into three containers, it’s okay to eyeball it. To one container, add the pink Brazilian clay and use your hands or spatula to fully incorporate. To another container, add the purple Brazilian Clay and use your hands or spatula to fully mix in.
• Depending on the moisture level of the current mixture, spritz the bath bombs with witch hazel. It usually takes between 7-10 spritzes, and the mixture should be wet enough so when you squeeze the powder in your palm, it will stick together. If you don’t have witch hazel, adding extra shea butter will help the dry ingredients stick.
• Once all the colors have reached a mold-able consistency, place a small amount of lavender buds into a half of the bath bomb mold. Just a pinch does the trick! Then place some white bath bomb mixture into the mold, covering the lavender buds. Fill the bath bomb mold about half way full with the white mixture.
• Cover the white layer with the pink bath bomb mixture. Once full, set aside that half of the bath bomb mold.
• Fill the other half of the mold half way with purple bath bomb mixture and pack down. Fill the remainder of the mold with pink bath bomb mixture. Slightly overfill this half with the pink mixture, and squeeze the two halves of the mold together firmly.
• Very gently, pull one half of the mold away. Slightly twisting while pulling away can make this process smoother.
• Allow to harden for at least 24 hours. Then package in in cellophane or plastic wrap to protect them against excess moisture and enjoy!

The post Lavender & Clay Mondo Bath Fizzy appeared first on Soap Queen.