There’s no denying how fun bath bombs are. As soon as they hit the water they start fizzing, moving around the tub, and releasing color. But have you ever used a bubbling bath truffle? The experience is a bit different but just as fun. As you break them up under the running faucet, they slowly produce creamy, fluffy bubbles. It’s a luxurious experience unlike any other.

If you’re ready for some bubbly goodness, give these DIY Mermaid Bubbling Bath Truffles a try. They have all the components of a great truffle – SLSA for bubbles, shea and cocoa butter to moisturize, and cream of tartar for the signature fluffy texture. These bars also have sea-inspired additives like coarse pink sea salt and Aqua Pearl Mica. Finish them off with Island Escape Fragrance Oil and it will feel like you’re at the beach every time you use a bar.

What You’ll Need:
25 oz. Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) (41%)
7 oz. Citric Acid (12%)
13 oz. SLSA (21%)
2.5 oz. Cream of Tartar (4%)
6 oz. Shea Butter (10%)
4.5 oz. Organic Cocoa Butter Cubes (7%)
1.5 oz. Liquid Glycerin (3%)
.5 oz. Polysorbate 80 (1%)
.6 oz. Island Escape Fragrance Oil (1%)
Aqua Pearl Mica
Super Pearly White Mica
Gold Sparkle Mica
Coarse Pink Sea Salt

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a small heat-safe container, add the shea butter and cocoa butter cubes. Place the container in the microwave and melt the butters using 30-60 bursts. The cocoa butter takes a little while to melt. Be careful when removing it from the microwave, as it may be very hot.

TWO: Add the Island Escape Fragrance Oil, polysorbate 80 and glycerin to the melted butters. Use a spoon to thoroughly incorporate. Set aside.

THREE: Place a fine mesh sifter over a large container. Add the baking soda, citric acid and cream of tartar. Pour the ingredients through the sifter to get rid of chunks. Use a whisk to mix the ingredients together. Very carefully, add the SLSA to the large container (do not put it through the sifter). I recommend adding the SLSA very last. SLSA is extremely fine and powdery and can become airborne very easily. You may want to wear a mask during this step to avoid breathing in any SLSA. It is irritating if you breathe it in. Once all the ingredients have been added, slowly mix together the dry ingredients using a whisk.

Add 1 teaspoon of Super Pearly White Mica to the entire batch and use the whisk to fully mix it in. The Super Pearly White gives more shimmer in the tub, but does not drastically change the color of the mixture. You can leave it out if you prefer.

FOUR: Add about 1/3 of the melted butter mixture. I recommend adding the liquid ingredients to the powder when the liquids are about 180 ° F. This is quite hot, so I recommend using gloves to mix the liquid ingredients into the powder. The hotter the liquid ingredients are when added, the softer the final “dough” will be. Adding the liquid when it’s hot reduces the need to microwave it later. Use your hands to incorporate the liquid and powder ingredients together. If you prefer, you could also use a stand or hand mixer for this step, but I prefer using my hands.

FIVE: Continue adding the liquid ingredients to the dry and mix together until fully incorporated. The final texture will be very similar to bread dough – soft, workable and slightly sticky. The texture of the mixture depends on the temperature of the butters. The warmer the dough, the softer it will be. We found a dough temperature of about 85-100 ° F is a great moldable texture. If your dough is cooler than that, place the entire mixture into the microwave for 10-20 seconds to warm it.

SIX: You will have about 60 ounces of mixture. Split the batch into two containers. One container will have about 40 ounces, the other will have about 20 ounces.

SEVEN: To the larger container, add 1 teaspoon of Aqua Pearl Mica. Use your hands to thoroughly mix in the colorant until there are no streaks.

EIGHT: Once all the colors are mixed, it’s time to roll! Place a sheet of parchment or wax paper down to prevent the dough from sticking. Sprinkle your work surface with a bit of baking soda to prevent sticking. Clean off your counter space to mold the mixture and create a log shape.

NINE: Place chunks of the white colored bubble bar mixture onto the blue. Use your hands to spread it evenly onto the blue, and press them down on each other. Create a flat rectangle shape – about 14 inches long, by about 7-8 inches tall.

TEN: Use the parchment paper to roll the bubble bars. The bars may stick to the parchment or wax paper slightly, but that’s okay. You can use your hands to smooth out the roll.

ELEVEN: Continue rolling, and use your hands to help create a smooth, even log.

TWELVE: Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle the top with coarse pink sea salt and press the salt into the bars to help them stick.

THIRTEEN: Sprinkle the top with Gold Sparkle Mica.

FOURTEEN: Use a sharp non-serrated knife to cut the log into bars. If the log is extremely soft, it can be a little sticky and needs to be handled very carefully. You can wait for about 30 minutes for it to harden slightly, or cut the bars very gently. How soft the log is will depend on how hot the butters were when mixed in, and if you placed the mixture in the microwave.

FIFTEEN: Once the bars are cut, place them gently on a piece of parchment paper or wax paper. Use your hands to give them a more uniform shape, smooth the edges, or fix any chunks that may have fallen off while cutting. As the butters in the bath truffles cool, they become hard. It takes about 3-4 hours for the bars to become firm depending on your room temperature. It can be hard to wait, but be patient!

Once you’re ready to use the bath truffles, place them in the tub for a slow fizzing reaction with a small amount of foamy bubbles. If you want to “activate” more bubbles, hold the bar directly under the running bath faucet while breaking off small amounts of the bar.

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DIY Mermaid Bubbling Bath Truffles

These Mermaid Bubbling Bath Truffles create bubbles, and fill the tub with skin-loving oils.

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 25 oz. Sodium Bicarbonate Baking Soda (41%)
• 7 oz. Citric Acid 12%
• 13 oz. SLSA 21%
• 2.5 oz. Cream of Tartar 4%
• 6 oz. Shea Butter 10%
• 4.5 oz. Organic Cocoa Butter Cubes 7%
• 1.5 oz. Liquid Glycerin 3%
• .5 oz. Polysorbate 80 1%
• .6 oz. Island Escape Fragrance Oil 1%
• Aqua Pearl Mica
• Super Pearly White Mica
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Coarse Pink Sea Salt

Instructions

• In a small heat-safe container, add the shea butter and cocoa butter cubes. Place the container in the microwave and melt the butters using 30-60 bursts. The cocoa butter takes a little while to melt. Be careful when removing it from the microwave, as it may be very hot.
• Add the Island Escape Fragrance Oil, polysorbate 80 and glycerin to the melted butters. Use a spoon to thoroughly incorporate. Set aside.
• Place a fine mesh sifter over a large container. Add the baking soda, citric acid and cream of tartar. Pour the ingredients through the sifter to get rid of chunks. Use a whisk to mix the ingredients together. Very carefully, add the SLSA to the large container (do not put it through the sifter). I recommend adding the SLSA very last. SLSA is extremely fine and powdery and can become airborne very easily. You may want to wear a mask during this step to avoid breathing in any SLSA. It is irritating if you breathe it in. Once all the ingredients have been added, slowly mix together the dry ingredients using a whisk.
• Add 1 teaspoon Super Pearly White Mica to the entire batch and use the whisk to fully mix it in. The Super Pearly White gives more shimmer in the tub, but does not drastically change the color of the mixture. You can leave it out if you prefer.
• Add about 1/3 of the melted butter mixture. I recommend adding the liquid ingredients to the powder when the liquids are about 180 ° F. This is quite hot, so I recommend using gloves to mix the liquid ingredients into the powder. The hotter the liquid ingredients are when added, the softer the final “dough” will be. Adding the liquid when it’s hot reduces the need to microwave it later. Use your hands to incorporate the liquid and powder ingredients together. If you prefer, you could also use a stand or hand mixer for this step, but I prefer using my hands.
• Continue adding the liquid ingredients to the dry and mix together until fully incorporated. The final texture will be very similar to bread dough – soft, workable and slightly sticky. The texture of the mixture depends on the temperature of the butters. The warmer the dough, the softer it will be. We found a dough temperature of about 85-100 ° F is a great moldable texture. If your dough is cooler than that, place the entire mixture into the microwave for 10-20 seconds to warm it.
• You will have about 60 ounces of mixture. Split the batch into two containers. One container will have about 40 ounces, the other will have about 20 ounces.
• To the larger container, add 1 teaspoon of Aqua Pearl Mica. Use your hands to thoroughly mix in the colorant until there are no streaks.
• Once all the colors are mixed, it’s time to roll! Place a sheet of parchment or wax paper down to prevent the dough from sticking. Sprinkle your work surface with a bit of baking soda to prevent sticking. Clean off your counter space to mold the mixture and create a log shape.
• Place chunks of the white colored bubble bar mixture onto the blue. Use your hands to spread it evenly onto the blue, and press them down on each other. Create a flat rectangle shape – about 14 inches long, by about 7-8 inches tall.
• Use the parchment paper to roll the bubble bars. The bars may stick to the parchment or wax paper slightly, but that’s okay. You can use your hands to smooth out the roll.
• Continue rolling, and use your hands to help create a smooth, even log.
• Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle the top with coarse pink sea salt and press the salt into the bars to help them stick. Sprinkle the top with Gold Sparkle Mica.
• Use a sharp non-serrated knife to cut the log into bars. If the log is extremely soft, it can be a little sticky and needs to be handled very carefully. You can wait for about 30 minutes for it to harden slightly, or cut the bars very gently. How soft the log is will depend on how hot the butters were when mixed in, and if you placed the mixture in the microwave.
• Once the bars are cut, place them gently on a piece of parchment paper or wax paper. Use your hands to give them a more uniform shape, smooth the edges, or fix any chunks that may have fallen off while cutting. As the butters in the bath truffles cool, they become hard. It takes about 3-4 hours for the bars to become firm depending on your room temperature. It can be hard to wait, but be patient!
• Once you’re ready to use the bath truffles, place them in the tub for a slow fizzing reaction with a small amount of foamy bubbles. If you want to “activate” more bubbles, hold the bar directly under the running bath faucet while breaking off small amounts of the bar.

The post DIY Mermaid Bubbling Bath Truffles appeared first on Soap Queen.

With ombre aqua blue layers and plenty of sparkle, this soap is fit for a mermaid. It’s made with ingredients in the Mermaid Ombre Soap Kit, which includes everything you need to make this project. This recipe is for one batch but the kit comes with enough to make two batches. It has printed instructions and labels to give the bars a finishing touch. The kit also ships free to the lower 48 United States!

The ombre layers are created by melting down all the soap, pouring a small amount into the mold, then adding shavings of the Hydrated Chrome Green Color Block to the remaining soap. As you continue to pour each layer and add more color, the color becomes increasingly saturated. By the time you pour the last layer, the soap is a deep aqua blue.

You can create as many layers as you’d like. The more layers, the more gradual the ombre effect will be. If you want the layers to be perfectly even, I recommend placing the mold on a scale and weighing each layer. This project is suitable for beginners, but keep in mind layers take a little patience. It can be handy to have a thermometer for this project to make sure the soap is not too hot when poured. If the melt and pour is too hot, it can melt the layer below. Read more tips for layering melt and pour soap here. 

What You’ll Need (Ingredients included in the Mermaid Soap Kit):
4″ Silicone Soap Mold
16 oz. Clear Melt & Pour Soap Base
1 tsp. Iridescent Glitter
10-15 mL Yuzu Cybilla Fragrance Oil
Hydrated Chrome Green Color Block
Spray Bottle filled with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol)


Click here to add the Mermaid Soap Kit to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

The post How to Make Ombre Mermaid Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

Now is the ideal time to create cold process soap for July and August. If you’re looking for some fruity options, the Juicy Watermelon Soap Tutorial shows you how to create soap that looks and smells just like watermelon. The Lime in the Coconut Milk Cold Process combines Lime Essential Oil with Coconut Lemongrass Fragrance Oil to create a tropical scent. It’s also made with coconut milk powder to give the skin extra moisture. Love pineapple? The Perfect Pineapple Soap Tutorial shows you how to create soap with a realistic fruit texture.

Left to right, clockwise: Juicy Watermelon Soap Tutorial, Lime in the Coconut Milk Cold Process, Perfect Pineapple Soap Tutorial

If you prefer floral scents, the Sunflower Cold Process Soap Tutorial creates sunny and cheery bars. The Clover and Aloe Spin Swirl Cold Process Tutorial shows you how to create soap with the spin swirl technique. It’s created with Clover and Aloe Fragrance Oil, which features notes of green tea, lily, mint and citrus.

The Sunflower Cold Process Soap Tutorial shows you how to make these adorable bars. 

Can’t make it to the beach? The Mermaid Shell Melt & Pour Soap will have you feeling like an mermaid with every shower. The Shimmering Sea Salt Scrub is made with coconut oil, shea butter and fine grained Dead Sea salt. It’s great for prepping legs for shaving. Just make sure to use it before shaving, because salt can sting a little on newly shaved skin. Last but certainly not least is the Mermaid Tail Cold Process Soap, which is created by squeezing small dots of soap and smoothing them out with a spoon.

Top left, clockwise: Shimmering Sea Salt Scrub, Mermaid Shell Melt & Pour Soap, Mermaid Tail Cold Process Soap

Speaking of mermaids, this Mermaid Ombre Soap Tutorial on the Handmade Beauty Blog is full of sparkle. It’s scented with Relaxing Fragrance Oil, which features notes of lavender, jasmine and vanilla. To prevent the fragrance from discoloring the gorgeous aqua hue, the soap is made with Stephenson Vanilla Stable Melt and Pour Base.

Learn how to create these Mermaid Ombre Soaps on the Handmade Beauty Blog. 

If you don’t have a summer glow yet, fake it with homemade bronzer. The Bronzing Lotion Recipe is easy to make and customize to your skin tone. If you prefer a powder, making your own powder bronzer is easier than you think; click here to see the tutorial. The Beautiful Bronze Lip Tint Tutorial shows you how to add a golden shade to your lips.

Far left, clockwise: Bronzing Lotion Recipe, Beautiful Bronze Lip Tint Tutorial, Powder Bronzer DIY

I love to get inspiration from the #SoapShare hashtag on Instagram. The soaping community is creative and talented! Check out some of my favorite summer projects via Instagram below. Keep tagging your photos with #SoapShare, I love to see what you’re making!

Top row, left to right: gracesoaplay, fbbasoaps
Bottom row, left to right: smallbatchsoaps, tk.coselfcare

Top row, left to right: yellowcottagesoapery, melangejoliellc
Bottom row, left to right: yauvana_house, wildpoppysoapco

 What type of projects are you making this summer? I have been working on some facial sprays to hydrate skin on the go. Look out for those soon!

The post Summer DIY Project Inspiration appeared first on Soap Queen.

The Mermaid Tail Cold Process was inspired by the colorful scales of mermaids. This project uses the petal technique made popular by Kenna of Modern Soapmaking. A range of oceanic colors create interest, and really make the scales pop. Plenty of Iridescent Glitter is sprinkled on top to give a magical feel.

Can’t get enough sparkle and shine? The Mystic Mermaid Eye Shadows create a shimmery makeup look. Full of color, these cool tones are great for a night out or a special occasion. If you’re wondering how to apply these vibrant hues, the blog post also includes an application tutorial. If you have never made mineral makeup before, check out this Soap Queen TV video to learn how. It’s incredibly easy and fun!

The Under the Sea Nail Polish Collection on Tumblr completes your mermaid inspired look. With five colors to choose from, these shimmery polishes will make you feel like an underwater maiden. Creating nail polish is incredibly easy; simply add the colorants and glitters to the Suspending Nail Polish Base and shake! To learn more about making unique nail polish shades, check out the Talk It Out Tuesday: Nail Polish blog post.

Crazy about the blue and green color palette? The Mermaid Shell Melt and Pour soap features beautiful blue tones created with the Cellini Blue, Aqua Pearl and Opalescent Turquoise Micas. This project is a spin on this Clam Shell Soap Queen TV video. To create the textured clam shell look, a fork is used to create lines into thin layers of melt and pour. The result is soap that’s both realistic and eye catching. Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil gives these soaps a slightly sweet, clean scent.

Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil is also used in the Shimmer Sea Salt Scrub. The combination of skin-loving shea butter and coconut oil create a smooth, spreadable texture when applied to the skin. Fine grained dead sea salt removes dead skin, leaving skin feeling silky soft. The addition of Gold (light) Mica adds a subtle shimmer.

Looking for even more aquatic inspired projects? The Stormy Seas Cold Process uses embeds and layers of color to create a oceanic landscape. The Sea Clay Swirl Cold Process features sea clay and pink sea salt for exfoliation. Melt and pour embeds and plenty of glitter creates the look of stained glass in the Shimmering Sea Glass Cold Process. If you prefer working with melt and pour, the Inspired by the Sea melt and pour project creates guest sized sea shell soaps.

Have you created a ocean inspired soapy project? I would love to see a photo on Instagram, simply tag your photo with the hastag #SoapShare. Doing so also enters you into a weekly contest to win a Soap Crafting Book! You can also share your photos on the Bramble Berry Facebook page.

The post Sweet Sea Dreams Roundup appeared first on Soap Queen.

Mysterious and beautiful, mermaids are universally appealing. Mermaids appear in various folklore stories from a wide range of cultures, and became extremely popular by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale, “The Little Mermaid.” This cold process soap was inspired by scales of a mermaid’s tail. The base features a simple blue and white in-the-pot swirl to mimic waves of the ocean. Iridescent glitter gives this soap plenty of sparkle and shine, while Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil adds a fresh, clean scent.

To create the scale effect, this project uses the petal technique introduced by Erica Pence in the Artisan Soapmaker Ezine and made popular by Kenna of Modern Soap Making. The petal technique takes a steady hand and a bit of practice. First, small dots of soap are squeezed in a row. A spoon is pressed into the dot to spread the soap and create a petal/scale shape. Before attempting a large batch, you may want to practice the technique on parchment paper to get a feel for the movement. Once you get the hang of it, it’s surprisingly simple.

What You’ll Need:
Base
7.3 oz. Coconut Oil
8.7 oz. Olive Oil
5.8 oz. Palm Oil
4.4 oz. Meadowfoam Oil
1.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
1.4 oz. Jojoba Oil
3.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
9.6 oz. Distilled Water
2 oz. Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide Pigment
Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant
6″ Silicone Slab Mold

Scales/Petals
2.5 oz. Coconut Oil
3 oz. Olive Oil
2 oz. Palm Oil
1.5 oz. Meadowfoam Oil
.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
.5 oz. Jojoba Oil
1.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
3.3 oz. Distilled Water
Ultramarine Blue Pigment 
Hydrated Chrome Green Pigment
Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant
Radiant Plum Colorant
Aqua Pearl Mica
Iridescent Glitter
 4 Squeeze Bottles

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Finally, disperse 1 teaspoon Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant into 1 tablespoon of light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, meadowfoam oil, rice bran oil, jojoba oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. sodium lactate.

THREE: Add the Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and whisk in. 

FOUR: Split the batch into two containers: the first container should contain about 2 cups, while the other should hold about 4 cups. To the small container, add 1 tsp. dispersed Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant and whisk in to incorporate. 
FIVE: To the large container, add 1 Tbs. dispersed titanium dioxide. Whisk in to fully incorporate.

SIX: If the soap is still at a thin trace, pulse both containers with the the stick blender to thicken to a medium trace.

SEVEN: Once you have reached the texture of  a thin pudding, it’s time to make the in-the-pot swirl! Pour the blue soap into the white soap in four places: 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Pour steadily from a high point to get the color all the way to the bottom of the container.

EIGHT: Run a chopstick or dowel twice through the soap, hitting each entry point.

NINE: Pour the soap into the center of the mold until completely full. This recipe fills the mold to the very tip-top; doing so makes it easier to create the scales on top. If you have a little extra soap, have a small mold nearby to pour the extra soap. Once all the soap has been poured into the mold, firmly tap the mold onto the counter to release any air bubbles.

TEN: Use a spatula or spoon to create a flat top. The smoother the better! This helps create an even surface to create your scales on. Set soap aside while you make the soap for the scale detailing.

Create the Scales/Petals
Now that the base has been created, it’s time to make the “scales.” This technique involves using squeeze bottles to make small dots of various colors. A spoon is then used to lightly press on the dots. This creates a petal, or scale shaped detail. The key is achieving the right trace consistency. The soap should be thin enough that it can be squeezed out of the bottles, yet thick enough that it holds its shape. To simplify this process, the petals are not fragranced. This recipe does make more soap that what you will most likely need. Making a slightly larger batch fills the bottles more, which makes creating the dots easier. Have a small mold on hand to use up the leftover soap.

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon each of the Ultramarine Blue Colorant, Hydrated Chrome Green Colorant, Radiant Plum Colorant, Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant and Aqua Pearl Mica into 1 tablespoon each of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, meadowfoam oil, rice bran oil, jojoba oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about .5 tsp. sodium lactate.
TIP: Because you are working with a very small amount of soap, using a small, tall container prevents air bubbles. 

THREE: Once the soap has reached a thin trace, evenly disperse the soap into four squeeze bottles. It’s okay to eyeball it!

FOUR: Now it’s time to mix your colors! Add the colorants listed below into each individual squeeze bottle. Twist on the cap, and cover the opening with your finger. Shake the bottle rigorously until the color is completely dispersed.

• • Bottle A: 1/2 tsp. dispersed Ultramarine Blue + 1/2 tsp. dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green = Dark Blue
  • Bottle B: 1 tsp. dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green = Teal
  • Bottle C: 1/2 tsp. dispersed Aqua Pearl = Light Blue
  • Bottle D: 1/4 tsp. dispersed Radiant Plum + 1/8 tsp. dispersed Neon Blue Raspberry = Purple

FIVE: Set the bottles of soap aside to thicken. While it thickens, place the soap in the center of your work space. Grab plenty of paper towels, or a dishrag. Have your spoon handy. The best spoon is one with a small curve on the head. Make sure your spoon is not aluminum, which reacts with the lye and creates toxic fumes. Squeeze a small amount of each color on a piece of paper or on your paper towels to test the trace. If it’s too thin, keep shaking the soap to thicken. Be patient, it may take several minutes for the soap to reach the correct consistency. Line up the squeeze bottles in the order of use. The order we used was: teal, purple, dark blue and light blue.

SIX: Once the soap has reached a medium trace that holds its shape, make small dots going across the soap lengthwise using the color order: teal, purple, dark blue and light blue. Once you have made four dots, start the color order over again, starting with the teal color. Try to make the dots the same size, and evenly spaced. The dots should almost touch. The amount of dots will depend slightly on their size; our rows contained nine dots. 

SEVEN: Use the spoon to gently press each dot of color, sliding the spoon toward you. The base layer should be firm enough that each movement with the spoon will not disrupt the base. Between each color, clean off the spoon on the paper towel or rag. Continue creating petal shapes down the entire row of dots. Watch the video below to see this technique in action!

TEN: Once you reach the bottom of the mold, use the spoon to create a petal/scale that touches the edge of the mold.

ELEVEN: Spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Sprinkle the top with Iridescent Glitter. Allow soap to sit in the mold for 3-4 days. Because this is a loaf silicone mold, the soap may take a little longer than usual to set up. Be patient and give it time, you don’t want to ruin all that hard work!

Once the soap has been removed, cut the soap down the center of the mold. Then, cut each half into three bars.

Have you tried this petal technique before? I was a little uncertain, but it’s actually easier than it seems. Just takes some practice =)

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Mermaid Tail Cold Process Soap

The petal technique made popular by Kenna of Modern Soapmaking is used to create a design inspired by mermaids.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

Base

• 7.3 oz. Coconut Oil
• 8.7 oz. Olive Oil
• 5.8 oz. Palm Oil
• 4.4 oz. Meadowfoam Oil
• 1.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
• 1.4 oz. Jojoba Oil
• 3.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 9.6 oz. Distilled Water
• 2 oz. Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide Pigment
• Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant
• 6 ″ Silicone Slab Mold

Scales/Petals

• 2.5 oz. Coconut Oil
• 3 oz. Olive Oil
• 2 oz. Palm Oil
• 1.5 oz. Meadowfoam Oil
• .5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
• .5 oz. Jojoba Oil
• 1.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 3.3 oz. Distilled Water
• Ultramarine Blue Pigment
• Hydrated Chrome Green Pigment
• Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant
• Radiant Plum Colorant
• Aqua Pearl Mica
• Iridescent Glitter
• 4 Squeeze Bottles

Instructions

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Finally, disperse 1 teaspoon Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant into 1 tablespoon of light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, meadowfoam oil, rice bran oil, jojoba oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. sodium lactate.
• Add the Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and whisk in.
• Split the batch into two containers: the first container should contain about 2 cups, while the other should hold about 4 cups. To the small container, add 1 tsp. dispersed Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant and whisk in to incorporate.
• To the large container, add 1 Tbs. dispersed titanium dioxide. Whisk in to fully incorporate.
• If the soap is still at a thin trace, pulse both containers with the the stick blender to thicken to a medium trace.
• Once you have reached the texture of a thin pudding, it’s time to make the in-the-pot swirl! Pour the blue soap into the white soap in four places: 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Pour steadily from a high point to get the color all the way to the bottom of the container.
• Run a chopstick or dowel twice through the soap, hitting each entry point.
• Pour the soap into the center of the mold until completely full. This recipe fills the mold to the very tip-top; doing so makes it easier to create the scales on top. If you have a little extra soap, have a small mold nearby to pour the extra soap. Once all the soap has been poured into the mold, firmly tap the mold onto the counter to release any air bubbles.
• Use a spatula or spoon to create a flat texture on top. The smoother the better! This helps create a smooth even surface to create your scales. Set soap aside while you make the soap for the scale detailing.

Scale Detailing

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoons of the Ultramarine Blue Colorant, Hydrated Chrome Green Colorant, Radiant Plum Colorant, Neon Blue Raspberry Colorant and Aqua Pearl Mica into 1 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
• Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, meadowfoam oil, rice bran oil, jojoba oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about .5 tsp. sodium lactate. TIP: Because you are working with a very small amount of soap, using a small, tall container prevents air bubbles.
• Once the soap has reached a thin trace, evenly disperse the soap into four squeeze bottles. It’s okay to eyeball it!
• Now it’s time to mix your colors! Add the colorants listed below into each individual squeeze bottle. Twist on the cap, and cover the opening with your finger. Shake the bottle rigorously until the color is completely dispersed.
  Bottle A: .5 tsp. dispersed Ultramarine Blue + .5 tsp. dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green = Dark Blue
  Bottle B: 1 tsp. dispersed Hydrated Chrome Green = Teal
  Bottle C: 1/2 tsp. dispersed Aqua Pearl = Light Blue
  Bottle D: 1/4 tsp. dispersed Radiant Plum + 1/8 tsp. Neon = Purple
• Set the bottles of soap aside to thicken. While it thickens, place the soap in the center of your work space. Grab plenty of paper towels, or a dishrag. Have your spoon handy. The best spoon is one with a small curve on the head. Make sure your spoon is not aluminum, which reacts with the lye and creates toxic fumes. Squeeze a small amount of each color on a piece of paper or on your paper towels to test the trace. If it’s too thin, keep shaking the soap to thicken. Be patient, it may take several minutes for the soap to reach the correct consistency. Line up the squeeze bottles in the order of use. The order we used was: teal, purple, dark blue and light blue.
• Once the soap has reached a medium trace that holds its shape, make small dots going across the soap lengthwise using the color order: teal, purple, dark blue and light blue. Once you have made four dots, start the color order over again, starting with the teal color. Try to make the dots the same size, and evenly spaced. The dots should almost touch. The amount of dots will depend slightly on their size; our rows contained nine dots.
• Use the spoon to gently press each dot of color, sliding the spoon toward you. The base layer should be firm enough that each movement with the spoon will not disrupt the base. Between each color, clean off the spoon on the paper towel or rag. Continue creating petal shapes down the entire row of dots.
• Using the colors in opposite order (light blue, dark blue, purple and teal) squeeze small dots onto the bottom of the petal above it. Each dot should cover any white space, yet should not cover the top of the petal above it when pressed with the spoon. Continue creating dots on the entire row of petals. Use the spoon to gently press the dots as shown in step seven.
• Continue the process of squeezing dots down the entire row, and using the spoon to gently press the dots to create the scale/petal shape. Don’t forget to clean the spoon off in between each color! Continue alternating the color order from teal, purple, dark blue, light blue, and light blue, dark blue, purple and teal. Alternating the color order creates the row of colors in the end. Keeping your squeeze bottles in order on your counter space helps keep them straight!
• Once you reach the bottom of the mold, use the spoon to create a petal/scale that touches the edge of the mold.
• Spray the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. Sprinkle the top with Iridescent Glitter. Allow soap to sit in the mold for 3-4 days. Because this is a loaf silicone mold, the soap may take a little longer than usual to set up. Be patient and give it time, you don’t want to ruin all that hard work!

The post Mermaid Tail Cold Process Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

The white eye shadow has a bit of shimmer from Super Pearly White Mica, which adds interest to your base color. It also works as a highlighting shade. The purple, blue and teal colors are great for shadows and contouring. You can also switch up the colors for a unique look each time. Dipping your makeup brush in a little water intensifies the color, giving you more color options.

If you have never made mineral makeup before, it’s incredibly easy! To learn more, check out this Mineral Makeup Soap Queen TV Episode. Make sure when you are creating eye shadow that you use eye safe colorants; colorants not approved for the eye area can cause extreme irritation. Click here for a list of eye shadow safe micas and colorants.

What You’ll Need:
Super Pearly White Mica 
Cellini Blue Lip Safe Mica 
Shamrock Green Mica 
Amethyst Purple Mica
Aqua Pearl Mica
Sericite
Stackable Lip Pot Base (Four bases)
Stackable Lip Pot Cap (Four caps)
Stackable Lip Pot Body (Twelve bodies)
.15 CC Scoops

EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, mini scoops, measuring spoons and mixing spoons. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.

ONE: In a small container, add 2 tsp. sericite and .5 tsp. Super Pearly White Mica. Mix well.

TWO: In a separate small container, add .5 tsp. sericite, .25 tsp. Super Pearly White Mica, 1 tsp. Amethyst Purple Mica and 5 mini scoops of Cellini Blue Lip Safe Mica. Stir the colors together well. Note: The Sparkle Violet Mica previously used in this recipe will be discontinued once supplies run out. It has been replaced with Super Pearly White Mica.

THREE: In another container, mix .5 tsp. sericite, .5 tsp. Amethyst Purple Mica, .5 tsp. Shamrock Green Mica and 5 mini scoops of Aqua Pearl Mica. Stir thoroughly.

FOUR: In a separate container, add 1 tsp. sericite, and .5 tsp. Shamrock Green Mica. Mix well.

FIVE: Once all the colors have been thoroughly mixed, begin transferring the colors into separate sections in the stackable lip container. Twist the cap shut tightly, and enjoy!

Wondering how to apply these fun colors? Amanda, who works in our social media department, shows you how! Her red hair is the perfect contrast for these hues; she’s like a modern day Ariel!

ONE: Apply the white shadow over the entire lid.

TWO: Apply the teal shadow on the outside corner of the eye, and blend the color into the crease.

THREE: Dip a small portion of your makeup brush into water. Then, the dip brush lightly into the teal shadow. Mixing the shadow with a little water increases the intensity of the color. Apply the slightly damp shadow to the outside corner of the eye.

FOUR: Apply a small amount of the purple shadow into the crease, and a small amount in the center of the eyelid. Blend well. 

Optional: Apply eyeliner. Amanda used Revlon’s ColorStay Skinny liquid liner in “Green Spark.” Apply mascara.

Ta da! Enjoy your new, colorful mermaid eyeshadow makeup look!

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Mystic Mermaid Eye Shadow

Add some bold mermaid-inspired eye shadow to your everyday makeup look!

Course Makeup

Servings 4 Eye Shadow Quads

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Super Pearly White Mica
• Cellini Blue Lip Safe Mica
• Shamrock Green Mica
• Amethyst Purple Mica
• Aqua Pearl Mica
• Sericite
• Stackable Lip Pot Base Four bases
• Stackable Lip Pot Cap Four caps
• Stackable Lip Pot Body Twelve bodies
• .15 CC Scoops

Instructions

• EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, mini scoops, measuring spoons and mixing spoons. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible. To be safe, bleach water all your utensils.
• In a small container, add 2 tsp. sericite and .5 tsp. Super Pearly White Mica. Mix well.
• In a separate small container, add .5 tsp. sericite, .25 tsp. Super Pearly White Mica, 1 tsp. Amethyst Purple Mica and 5 mini scoops of Cellini Blue Lip Safe Mica. Stir the colors together well. Note: The Sparkle Violet Mica previously used in this recipe will be discontinued once supplies run out. It has been replaced with Super Pearly White Mica.
• In another container, mix .5 tsp. sericite, .5 tsp. Amethyst Purple Mica, .5 tsp. Shamrock Green Mica and 5 mini scoops of Aqua Pearl Mica. Stir thoroughly.
• In a separate container, add 1 tsp. sericite, .5 tsp. Shamrock Green Mica. Mix well.
• Once all the colors have been thoroughly mixed, begin transferring the colors into separate sections in the stackable lip container. Twist the cap shut tightly, and enjoy!

The post Mystic Mermaid Eye Shadow + Application Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Inspired by mermaids, Gold (light) Mica is added to give skin a subtle shimmer. A combination of LabColors give this scrub a light aqua color, reminiscent of the ocean. Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil gives this scrub a fresh, slightly sweet scent that’s great for spring. 

What You’ll Need:
15 oz. Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt
5 oz. Coconut Oil
3 oz. Shea Butter
8 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
12 mL Blue Mix LabColor
5 mL Emerald LabColor
2 1/4 tsp. Gold (light) Mica 
3.5 mL Optiphen
Two 8 oz. Plastic Bail Jars
Optional: Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

DILUTING LABCOLOR: You’ll need to premix your LabColors in order to use them in this project. We like diluting the small bottle of LabColor in 4 oz. of distilled water. For more on diluting LabColors, check out this blog post.

ONE: Melt the coconut oil in the heat resistant plastic pouch and pour it into a heat-safe container.

TWO: Add the shea butter and stir well. If the warm coconut oil doesn’t melt the shea butter fully, put the container into the microwave on 10-second bursts. This ensures that the shea butter doesn’t get too hot, which can cause graininess.

THREE: Add 8 mL of the Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and stir well.

FOUR: Check the temperature of the oil mixture. If it’s below 176 °F, add 3.5 mL of Optiphen. If your scrub is warmer than 176° F, the preservative may not be effective.
Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful. You can read more in the Talk It Out Tuesday: Preservatives post.

FIVE: In a separate container, measure out the Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt. Add 12 mL of diluted Blue Mix LabColor and 5 mL of diluted Emerald Mix LabColor. It may be difficult to mix in the LabColor at first. We found the best strategy was to put gloves on and hand mix the colorant into the salts. It’s very important to mix the LabColor into the salt first because the water-based LabColors will not mix into the oil-based scrub otherwise.

SIX: Add 2 1/4 tsp. of the Gold (light) Mica and mix well.

SEVEN: Pour the oil mixture into the salt and stir well. Be sure the salts are completely enveloped in oil and no salt chunks are present.

EIGHT: Once the scrub is fully incorporated, pour into two 8 oz. Glass Bail Jar. Let it fully cool and it’s ready to use and enjoy! If using in the shower, be careful! The oils will make the bottom of the tub very slippery.

What is your favorite way to prep skin for the warmer months? 

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Sea Salt and Shea Scrub

This ultra moisturizing scrub has a fresh clean scent and a bit of sparkle.

Course Salt Scrub

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 15 oz. Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt
• 5 oz. Coconut Oil
• 3 oz. Shea Butter
• 8 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
• 12 mL Blue Mix LabColor
• 5 mL Emerald LabColor
• 2 1/4 tsp. Gold light Mica
• 3.5 mL Optiphen
• Two 8 oz. Bail Jars
• Optional: Droppers

Instructions

• DILUTING LABCOLOR: You’ll need to premix your LabColors in order to use them in this project. We like diluting the small bottle of LabColor in 4 oz. of distilled water.
• Melt the coconut oil in the heat resistant plastic pouch and pour it into a heat-safe container.
• Add the shea butter and stir well. If the warm coconut oil doesn't melt the shea butter fully, put the container into the microwave on 10-second bursts. This ensures that the shea butter doesn't get too hot, which can cause graininess.
• Add 8 mL of the Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and stir well.
• Check the temperature of the oil mixture. If it's below 176F, add 3.5 mL of Optiphen. If your scrub is warmer than 176 F, the preservative may not be effective. Note: Although this scrub doesn’t contain water, it will likely get water splashed in it during use. The extra water may cause bacteria and mold to grow. We added a preservative to be extra careful.
• In a separate container, measure out the Fine Grained Dead Sea Salt. Add 12 mL of diluted Blue Mix LabColor and 5 mL of diluted Emerald Mix LabColor. It may be difficult to mix in the LabColor at first. We found the best strategy was to put gloves on and hand mix the colorant into the salts. It’s very important to mix the LabColor into the salt first because the water-based LabColors will not mix into the oil-based scrub otherwise.
• Add 2 1/4 tsp. of the Gold (light) Mica and mix well.
• Pour the oil mixture into the salt and stir well. Be sure the salts are completely enveloped in oil and no salt chunks are present.
• Once the scrub is fully incorporated, pour into two 8 oz. Glass Bail Jar. Let it fully cool and it's ready to use and enjoy!

The post Shimmering Sea Salt Scrub Recipe appeared first on Soap Queen.

This project is a spin on the Clam Shell Soap Queen TV video (shout out to Paula from PJ’s Soaps for her amazing creativity!). First, thin layers of color are poured into the mold. A fork is used to create lines within the soap, giving a realistic clam shell look.

What You’ll Need:
Mold Market Clam Shell
19 oz. Clear Melt and Pour
1 oz. White Melt and Pour
9 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
Cellini Blue Mica
Aqua Pearl Mica
Rose Pearl Mica
Gold Sparkle Gold Mica
99% Isopropyl Alcohol
Optional: 8 oz. Spray Bottle, Droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1/2 teaspoon Rose Pearl Mica and Gold Sparkle Mica into 1/2 tablespoon 99% isopropyl alcohol. Disperse 1 teaspoon Cellini Blue Mica and Aqua Pearl Mica into 1 tablespoon 99% isopropyl alcohol. Stir to combine, and use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

ONE: Chop and melt 1 oz. of clear melt and pour base in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Such small amounts of melt and pour can burn easily, using short bursts helps avoid this. Once melted, add 1/2 teaspoon of Cellini Blue Mica and 1/8 teaspoon of Gold Sparkle Mica. Stir to combine.

TWO: Pour a small amount of soap into each mold cavity. While still liquid, move the mold around to spread a thin layer of soap over the entire mold. Continue to move the mold until the soap begins to cool and harden. Once cool, spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to fully harden.

THREE: Chop and melt 2 oz. of clear melt and pour in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Aqua Pearl Mica and stir to combine. Once the soap is between 125-130° F, spray the first layer with 99% alcohol. Pour the soap evenly into all three cavities.

FOUR: Move the mold around to spread the soap evenly in the cavity. It’s okay if a little soap drips outside the cavity. Continue moving the mold until the soap begins to cool and harden (several minutes). Once cool, spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to completely cool and harden.

FIVE: Once the layers have cooled completely, use a fork to create lines from one end of the clam shell to the other. Make sure the fork goes through the soap all the way. Repeat this process to make 6-8 lines, depending on your fork.

TIP: You may want to use a toothpick or dowel to ensure the indentations go through both layers.

SIX: Chop and melt 1 oz. of clear melt and pour, and 1 oz. of white melt and pour in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Add all the dispersed Rose Pearl Mica and stir to combine. Once the soap is between 125-130°F, spray the mold cavities with 99% rubbing alcohol. Pour pink soap evenly into the cavities.

SEVEN: Quickly move the mold to ensure the pink soap fills the lines made by the fork. Continue moving the mold to create a thin pink layer. Spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to fully harden and cool.

EIGHT: Chop and melt 15 oz. of clear melt and pour soap in the microwave using 20 second bursts. Add 1 teaspoon of dispersed Cellini Blue Mica and 1 teaspoon dispersed Gold Sparkle Mica and stir to combine. Add 9 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and stir to thoroughly incorporate. 
NINE: Allow the soap to cool to 130°F or below, and spray the pink layer with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Pour the melted soap into each cavity and spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to disperse any cavities.

TEN: Allow the soap to fully cool and harden in the mold for about 3-4 hours. To release, use the palm of your hand to firmly press the soap from the back and release the airlock. Enjoy!

Keep your eyes on the blog for a series of tutorials inspired by mermaids! 

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Mermaid Shell Melt & Pour

Full of sparkle, this Mermaid Shell Melt and Pour soap will make you feel like an underwater maiden.

Course Melt and Pour

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Mold Market Clam Shell
• 19 oz. Clear Melt and Pour
• 1 oz. White Melt and Pour
• 9 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil
• Cellini Blue Mica
• Aqua Pearl Mica
• Rose Pearl Mica
• Gold Sparkle Gold Mica
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol
• Optional: 8 oz. Spray Bottle Droppers

Instructions

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1/2 teaspoon Rose Pearl Mica and Gold Sparkle Mica into 1/2 tablespoon 99% isopropyl alcohol. Disperse 1 teaspoon Cellini Blue Mica and Aqua Pearl Mica into 1 tablespoon 99% isopropyl alcohol. Stir to combine, and use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps.

• Chop and melt 1 oz. of clear melt and pour base in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Such small amounts of melt and pour can burn easily; using short bursts helps avoid this. Once melted, add 1/2 teaspoon of Cellini Blue Mica and 1/8 teaspoon of Gold Sparkle Mica. Stir to combine.
• Pour a small amount of soap into each mold cavity. While still liquid, move the mold around to spread a thin layer of soap over the entire mold. Continue to move the mold until the soap begins to cool and harden. Once cool, spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to fully harden.
• Chop and melt 2 oz. of clear melt and pour in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Aqua Pearl Mica and stir to combine. Once the soap is between 125-130° F, spray the first layer with 99% alcohol. Pour the soap evenly into all three cavities.
• Move the mold around to spread the soap evenly in the cavity. Continue moving the mold until the soap begins to cool and harden (several minutes). Once cool, spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to completely cool and harden.
• Once the layers have cooled completely, use a fork to create lines from one end of the clam shell to the other. Make sure the fork goes through the soap all the way. Repeat this process to make 6-8 lines, depending on your fork.
• Chop and melt 1 oz. of clear melt and pour, and 1 oz. of white melt and pour in the microwave using 5 second bursts. Add all the dispersed Rose Pearl Mica and stir to combine. Once the soap is between 125-130°F, spray the mold cavities with 99% rubbing alcohol. Pour pink soap evenly into the cavities.
• Quickly move the mold to ensure the pink soap fills the lines made by the fork. Continue moving the mold to create a thin pink layer. Spray with 99% isopropyl alcohol and allow to fully harden and cool.
• Chop and melt 15 oz. of clear melt and pour soap in the microwave using 20 second bursts. Add 1 teaspoon of dispersed Cellini Blue Mica and 1 teaspoon dispersed Gold Sparkle Mica and stir to combine. Add 9 mL Crisp Cotton Fragrance Oil and stir to thoroughly incorporate.
• Allow the soap to cool to 130°F or below, and spray the pink layer with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Pour the melted soap into each cavity and spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to disperse any cavities.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden in the mold for about 3-4 hours. To release, use the palm of your hand to firmly press the soap from the back and release the airlock. Enjoy!

The post Mermaid Shell Melt & Pour Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.