Gold and pink is a sophisticated color combination. It feels appropriate for the holidays, but also shines for Valentine’s Day and spring. That color combination inspired this soap, which is topped with Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt. The colors also make an appearance inside the bar with a pink layer and gold mica line.

We scented the batch with Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil. It’s a bright combination of grapefruit, jasmine, and traditional rose notes. It does slightly accelerate, but that works well for the layered design and textured top. The pink sea salt is sprinkled on top for texture and color. Gently pressing the salt into the soap helps the salt stick, but some will fall off when cut.

To achieve a nice white color, we added plenty of titanium dioxide. When a large amount of titanium dioxide is used it can lead to glycerin rivers – learn more about them here. One of the best ways to prevent glycerin rivers is to use a water discount. That can lead to trace thickening more quickly, so use your stick blender sparingly for this recipe.

What You Need:
Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Powder Duster
1.8 oz. Cocoa Butter (5%)
11.6 oz. Coconut Oil (33%)
3.2 oz. Meadowfoam Oil (9.1%)
11.6 oz. Palm Oil (33%)
7 oz. Rice Bran Oil (19.9%)
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10 oz. Distilled Water (13% water discount)
1.75 oz. Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Magenta Mica
Gold Sparkle Mica
Pink Sea Salt, Medium

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.75 ounces of Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 4 teaspoons of the titanium dioxide into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1/2 teaspoon of Magenta Mica into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Have the Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt nearby.
Optional: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. This is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize the colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. 

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add 5 ounces of lye to 10 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, rice bran oil, meadowfoam oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide to the oils and use a stick blender to fully mix in. This helps get rid of any chunks without thickening trace.

THREE: Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.

FOUR: Pour 600 mL of the soap batter into a separate container.

FIVE: Add 1 teaspoon of the dispersed Magenta Mica into the smaller container of soap and use a whisk to fully incorporate.

SIX: Add the Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Whisk in the fragrance oil thoroughly.

SEVEN: If the pink soap is still thin, use the stick blender to thicken trace. Once it’s a medium to thick trace, pour all of the pink soap into the mold and tap it on the counter to remove air bubbles. Use a spoon to create texture.

EIGHT: Place a few teaspoons of the Gold Sparkle Mica into the Powder Duster. Sprinkle a layer of the mica on top of the pink soap, making sure to cover as much of the pink as possible. Be careful to not create too thick of a layer or the soap may separate when cut.

NINE: By now, the white soap will be thick. Use a spoon to “plop” small amounts of it onto the pink until it’s completely covered. Then, gently transfer the rest of the white soap into the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles.

TEN: Use a small spoon to create texture on top. If you find the soap is not holding its shape, let it sit in the mold for several minutes to allow it to thicken and harden. We created a “wave” look by pushing the white soap toward one side. Feel free to create whatever top you like – there is no right or wrong way to create texture.

ELEVEN: Once you’re happy with the top, lightly sprinkle more Gold Sparkle Mica on the top of the soap using the Powder Duster.

TWELVE: Sprinkle the pink sea salt onto the soap. We concentrated the pink sea salt on the peak. Some of the salt will fall off when the soap is cut, so we like to use a little more salt to account for this.

THIRTEEN: Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. To very lightly insulate the soap, we placed the loaf into a large drawer uncovered at room temperature. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 2-3 days.

Pull the silicone mold away from the soap, and push it out from the bottom to release the airlock. To avoid drag marks from the salt, place the soap on its side and cut. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.

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Pink Salt & Gold Cold Process Soap DIY

This sophisticated pink and gold soap feels appropriate for the holidays, but also shines for Valentine’s Day and spring.

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• Powder Duster
• 1.8 oz. Cocoa Butter 5%
• 11.6 oz. Coconut Oil 33%
• 3.2 oz. Meadowfoam Oil 9.1%
• 11.6 oz. Palm Oil 33%
• 7 oz. Rice Bran Oil 19.9%
• 5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 10 oz. Distilled Water 13% water discount
• 1.75 oz. Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide
• Magenta Mica
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Pink Sea Salt Medium

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.75 ounces of Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 4 teaspoons of the titanium dioxide into 4 tablespoons of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1/2 teaspoon of Magenta Mica into 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Have the Gold Sparkle Mica and pink sea salt nearby. Optional: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. This is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. To micronize the colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 5 ounces of lye to 10 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• In a large glass bowl, combine and melt the coconut oil, cocoa butter, rice bran oil, meadowfoam oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide to the oils and use a stick blender to fully mix in. This helps get rid of any chunks without thickening trace.
• Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a very thin trace.
• Pour 600 mL of the soap batter into a separate container.
• Add 1 teaspoon of the dispersed Magenta Mica into the smaller container of soap and use a whisk to fully incorporate.
• Add the Rose Quartz Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Whisk in the fragrance oil thoroughly.
• If the pink soap is still thin, use the stick blender to thicken trace. Once it’s a medium to thick trace, pour all of the pink soap into the mold and tap it on the counter to remove air bubbles. Use a spoon to create texture.
• Place a few teaspoons of the Gold Sparkle Mica into the Powder Duster. Sprinkle a layer of the mica on top of the pink soap, making sure to cover as much of the pink as possible. Be careful to not create too thick of a layer or the soap may separate when cut.
• By now, the white soap will be thick. Use a spoon to “plop” small amounts of it onto the pink until it’s completely covered. Then, gently transfer the rest of the white soap into the mold. Firmly tap the mold on the counter to help settle the soap and get rid of bubbles.
• Use a small spoon to create texture on top. If you find the soap is not holding its shape, let it sit in the mold for several minutes to allow it to thicken and harden. We created a “wave” look by pushing the white soap toward one side. Feel free to create whatever top you like – there is no right or wrong way to create texture.
• Once you’re happy with the top, lightly sprinkle more Gold Sparkle Mica on the top of the soap using the Powder Duster.
• Sprinkle the pink sea salt onto the soap. We concentrated the pink sea salt on the peak. Some of the salt will fall off when the soap is cut, so we like to use a little more salt to account for this.
• Spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. To very lightly insulate the soap, we placed the loaf into a large drawer uncovered at room temperature. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for about 2-3 days.
• Pull the silicone mold away from the soap, and push it out from the bottom to release the airlock. To avoid drag marks from the salt, place the soap on its side and cut. Allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.

The post Pink Salt & Gold Cold Process Soap DIY appeared first on Soap Queen.

What You’ll Need:
9.9 oz. Coconut Oil
9.9 oz. Olive Oil
9.9 oz. Palm Oil
3.3 oz. Rice Bran Oil
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
10.8 oz. distilled water
Titanium Dioxide
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Luster Black Mica
1 tbs. Poppy Seeds
.5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil
1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Optional: Sodium Lactate

The post Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process on Soap Queen TV appeared first on Soap Queen.

When you don’t have time to make cold process soap, hot process soap making is a good next choice. The extra heat speeds up the saponification process, which cuts down on cure time. Hot process soap only requires 1-2 days in the mold, even with palm-free recipes like this one. With St. Patrick’s Day right around the corner, this hot process soap will be ready in time to celebrate the holiday.

This Luck of the Irish Hot Process soap features layers of green ombré. Each layer is defined with a line of Gold Sparkle Mica, which adds plenty of shimmer. Don’t use too much mica – a thick mica vein may cause the layers to separate from each other. When creating this effect it’s important to work fast. Hot process soap has a tendency to thicken quickly, which can make creating even layers tricky.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
10.2 oz. Coconut Oil
10.2 oz. Olive Oil
8.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
3.4 oz. Shea Butter
1.7 oz. Avocado Oil
1 oz. Sodium Lactate
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.2 oz. Distilled Water
2.5 oz. Kentish Rain Fragrance Oil
Chrome Green Oxide
Gold Sparkle Mica
Optional: Powder Duster

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide in 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Have the Gold Sparkle Mica close by to use in between all the layers.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves are your soap making uniform. Be sure that kids and pets are out of the house or unable to access your soaping space, and always soap in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the soap volume will not fill up more than half of your crock pot. If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt before trying out this tutorial. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled, add sodium lactate. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.

TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, rice bran oil and avocado oil. Pour the oils into your Crock Pot pot. Slowly add the lye water to the oils. Make sure the mixture does not fill up more than half of the crock pot or cooking vessel.

THREE: Mix with a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved.

FOUR: Put the lid on the crock pot and set it to low. After 15 minutes, check the soap to see the progress made. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly Vaseline-like texture. If the middle does not appear to be changing, stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 30 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, wearing gloves, take the pot off heat and stir like crazy.

FIVE: The batch will be ready when it’s the texture of glossy, thin mashed potatoes. This may take another 15 minute session or even two or three more stir’n’waits. When you think it’s ready, use a pH strip to test the levels. It should be showing below a 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap; you don’t want too dry a texture for the next steps!

NOTE: The amount of time that the soap takes in the Crock Pot phase can depend on the size and shape of your Crock Pot. The flatter ones meant for roasts may go a bit quicker because the soap will be spread out thinner on the heated surface. Because this is a small batch of soap, you may find it will cook faster than larger batches. For our standard sized Crock Pot, the soap took approximately 30 minutes to cook.

SIX: When the soap is ready, add the Kentish Rain fragrance oil blend and mix well. Turn the crock pot off.

SEVEN: Spoon out about 300 mL of soap into a container, and add 2 tsp. of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use a spoon or spatula to mix in the color thoroughly.

EIGHT: Transfer the green soap into the mold, and tap the mold firmly on the counter to evenly distribute. Tap a small amount of Sparkle Gold Mica into the powder duster, and sprinkle the gold mica onto the green soap evenly. Only apply a thing layer; if too much mica is used the layers may separate.

NINE: Scoop out another 300 mL of soap into a separate container and add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Plop the soap on top of the first layer. Placing the soap into different areas of the mold makes it easier to evenly distribute the soap. Gently use a spoon or spatula to gently spread the soap. You can also use your gloved hands to gently spread the soap, but be careful as it may be hot to the touch. Tap the mold firmly onto the counter to help spread the soap evenly.
TEN: Use the powder duster to create a thin layer of mica on top of the second layer.

ELEVEN: Scoop out approximately 300 mL of soap and add 1/4 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. Use the powder duster to create a thing layer of mica on top of the third layer.
TWELVE: Scoop out the remaining soap and add 1/8 tsp of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. For this layer, you may find it helpful to gently press the soap with your hands to create a more even top. Tap the mold firmly on the counter, and use the powder duster to top the soap with a thin dusting of gold mica.

THIRTEEN: Allow the soap to harden in the mold for 1-2 days. Unmold and cut. This soap is ready to use right away but will last longer in the shower after a full 4-6 week dry and evaporation time.

Looking for even more St. Patrick’s Day projects? Check out these green tutorials below!

Top left, clockwise: Shamrock Cold Process, Green Machine Melt and Pour, Soapy Plaid, Green Meadow Melt & Pour

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Luck of the Irish Hot Proces

Made with layers of green ombre and plenty of gold shimmer, this Luck of the Irish Hot Process is perfect for St. Patrick's Day!

Course Hot Process Soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 10.2 oz. Coconut Oil
• 10.2 oz. Olive Oil
• 8.5 oz. Rice Bran Oil
• 3.4 oz. Shea Butter
• 1.7 oz. Avocado Oil
• 1 oz. Sodium Lactate
• 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.2 oz. Distilled Water
• 2.5 oz. Kentish Rain Fragrance Oil
• Chrome Green Oxide
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Optional: Powder Duster

Instructions

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon Chrome Green Oxide in 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Have the Gold Sparkle Mica handy to use in between all the layers.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves are your soap making uniform. Be sure that kids and pets are out of the house or unable to access your soaping space, and always soap in a well-ventilated area. Make sure the soap volume will not fill up more than half of your crock pot. If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt before trying out this tutorial. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety.

• Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled, add sodium lactate. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.
• Melt and combine the coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, rice bran oil and avocado oil. Pour the oils into your Crock Pot’s pot. Slowly add the lye water to the oils.
• Mix with a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved.
• Put the lid on the Crock Pot and set it to low. After 15 minutes, check the soap to see the progress made. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly vaseline-like texture. If the middle does not appear to be changing, stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 30 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, take the pot off heat and stir like crazy.
• The batch will be ready when it’s the texture of glossy mashed potatoes. This may take another 15 minute session or even two or three more stir’n’waits. When you think it’s ready, use a pH strip to test the levels. It should be showing below a 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap; you don’t want too dry a texture for the next steps!
• The amount of time that the soap takes in the Crock Pot phase can depend on the size and shape of your Crock Pot. The flatter ones meant for roasts may go a bit quicker because the soap will be spread out thinner on the heated surface. Because this is a small batch of soap, you may find it will cook faster than larger batches. For our standard sized Crock Pot, the soap took approximately 30 minutes to cook.
• When the soap is ready, add the Kentish Rain fragrance oil blend and mix well. Turn the crock pot off.
• Spoon out about 300 mL of soap into a container, and add 2 tsp. of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Use a spoon or spatula to mix in the color thoroughly.
• Transfer the green soap into the mold, and tap the mold firmly on the counter to evenly distribute. Tap a small amount of Sparkle Gold Mica into the powder duster, and sprinkle the gold mica onto the green soap evenly. Only apply a thing layer; if too much mica is used the layers may separate.
• Scoop out another 300 mL of soap into a separate container and add 1/2 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Plop the soap on top of the first layer. Placing the soap into different areas of the mold makes it easier to evenly distribute the soap. Gently use a spoon or spatula to gently spread the soap. You can also use your gloved hands to gently spread the soap, but be careful as it may be hot to the touch. Tap the mold firmly onto the counter to help spread the soap evenly.
• Use the powder duster to create a thin layer of mica on top of the second layer.
• Scoop out approximately 300 mL of soap and add 1/4 tsp. dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. Use the powder duster to create a thing layer of mica on top of the third layer.
• Scoop out the remaining soap and add 1/8 tsp of dispersed Chrome Green Oxide. Stir in the color thoroughly. Layer the soap into the mold, using the same method as in step nine. For this layer, you may find it helpful to gently press the soap with your hands to create a more even top. Tap the mold firmly on the counter, and use the powder duster to top the soap with a thin dusting of gold mica.
• Allow the soap to harden in the mold for 1-2 days. Unmold and cut. This soap is ready to use right away but will last longer in the shower after a full 4-6 week drying time.

The post Luck of the Irish Hot Process Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

What you’ll need:

7 oz. Canola Oil

7 oz. Coconut oil

10.5 oz. Olive Oil

7 oz. Palm Oil

3.4 oz. Hazelnut Oil

4.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide

11.5 oz. distilled water

Aqua Pearl mica

Red Lab Color

Titanium Dioxide

Fragrance Oil Blend of: 1.5 oz. Blackberry Cybilla and .6 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil

10” Silicone Loaf Mold

Optional: 5 Easy Pour Mixing containers and droppers

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the Lab Color, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removeable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoon of Sunflower or Sweet Almond Oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get clumps worked out smoothly. You’ll also need to dilute a small bottle of Red Lab Color in 8 oz. of water. If you have never diluted Lab Colors before, check out this blog post.

FRAGRANCE PREP: In a glass container, combine the Blackberry Cybilla and Champagne Fragrance Oils. Give the mixture a good stir, and then set it aside.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Combine the Canola, Coconut, Olive, Hazelnut and Palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of Palm Oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add Sodium Lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of Sodium Lactate per pound of oils in the recipe.

THREE: Measure 9 oz. of soap batter into the 5 additional containers. Leave the remaining 5 – 6 oz. of batter in the original container and set it aside until step 13.

FOUR: The gradient will go from darkest to lightest, so begin by adding 15 mL of diluted Red Lab Color to one container of soap batter to form the first layer. Add roughly 1/5 of the fragrance oil blend and stir with a wire whisk or spatula. Once the colorant and fragrance have been fully incorporated into the batter, pour the soap into the mold. Tamp the mold on the table to disperse bubbles.

FIVE: To create the mica vein, use a powder duster to sprinkle a thin layer of Aqua Pearl Mica over the freshly poured red soap. Sprinkling too much mica can cause your layers to separate, so take extra care to achieve just a light dusting of mica. Then, still wearing your goggles, close your eyes and gently blow on the mica to lightly press it into the soap. Because mica is so fine, this part can get messy. Be sure to have paper towels and isopropyl alcohol on hand to clean up any mica that sticks to the mold or your work surface.

SIX: Add 9 mL of diluted Red Lab Color and roughly 1/5 of the fragrance blend to a second cup of soap batter. Blend and stir with a wire whisk or spatula. Once the colorant and fragrance have been fully incorporated into the batter, pour the soap over a spatula in the mold. Be particularly gentle when pouring this second layer of soap because you want to preserve the mica vein and (hopefully) not break through into the first layer.

SEVEN:  Use the powder duster to sprinkle a thin layer of Aqua Pearl Mica over the freshly poured soap.

EIGHT: Add 6 mL of diluted Red Lab Color, 1 teaspoon of dispersed Titanium Dioxide and roughly 1/5 of the fragrance blend to a third cup of soap batter. Blend and stir with a wire whisk or spatula. Once the colorant and fragrance have been fully incorporated into the batter, pour the soap over a spatula into the mold.

NINE: Use the powder duster to sprinkle a thin layer of Aqua Pearl Mica over the freshly poured soap.

TEN: Add 4 mL of diluted Red Lab Color, 1.5 teaspoons of dispersed Titanium Dioxide and roughly 1/5 of the fragrance blend to the fourth cup of soap batter. Blend and stir with a wire whisk or spatula. Once the colorant and fragrance have been fully incorporated into the batter, pour the soap over a spatula into the mold.

ELEVEN: Use the powder duster to sprinkle a thin layer of Aqua Pearl Mica over the freshly poured soap.

TWELVE: Add 2.5 mL of diluted Red Lab Color, 1.5 teaspoons of dispersed Titanium Dioxide and the remaining fragrance blend to a fifth cup of soap batter. Blend and stir with a wire whisk or spatula. Once the colorant and fragrance have been fully incorporated into the batter, pour the soap over a spatula into the mold.

THIRTEEN: Remember that 5 – 6 oz. of batter you set aside at the beginning of the recipe? Add 1 teaspoon of undispersed Aqua Pearl Mica to it and blend with a whisk or spatula. Pour the batter in a horizontal zig-zag pattern across the top of the mold.

FOURTEEN: Starting in the bottom left-hand corner, insert a chopstick or dowel approximately 1/4 inch into the soap. Drag the tool up and down through the soap in a vertical zig-zag, working your way to the other end of the mold.

FIFTEEN: Beginning in the bottom left-hand corner again, use a chopstick or dowel to make miniature figure-8s down the length of the mold. When you reach the edge, lift the tool straight up and out of the soap and start at the top left-hand corner, repeating the pattern down the length of the mold again.

SIXTEEN: Insulate the soap and place on a heating pad for 15 – 20 minutes. Then remove from heat and let it remain covered overnight. Allow the soap to cure for 4 – 6 weeks and then enjoy!

The post Striped Berry Champagne Cold Process appeared first on Soap Queen.