Oatmeal baths are well known for their skin-soothing properties. These Oatmeal Bath Bombs are made with oat extract and colloidal oatmeal to create a soothing bath experience. Colloidal oatmeal is micro-fine and fantastic for dry skin.

Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil gives these bath bombs a creamy, comforting scent. Cocoa butter adds structure and a chocolatey scent. A touch of oatmeal on top gives the bath bombs a finishing touch.

If you’ve never made bath bombs before, we recommend getting a batch under your belt that does not require a two-part mold. It can be a little tricky to get the perfect molding texture that will stick together and not crumble. Great recipe options for beginners include Rose Gold Bath Bombs and the Sand Dollar Bath Bombs. Watch the Surprise Bath Bomb video for tips on using the Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold successfully!

What You’ll Need:
Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold
4 cups Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
2 cups Citric Acid
1 oz. Colloidal Oatmeal
4 oz. Cocoa Butter
1 oz. Oat Extract
0.7 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
0.6 oz. Polysorbate 80
Witch Hazel in a Spray Bottle
Optional: Cyclomethicone

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

OPTIONAL MOLD PREP: Cylomethicone helps the bath bomb release more easily. Pour a small amount on a cotton ball and coat both halves of the molds. This step is optional, but if you have never used the Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold before, it’s recommended.

ONE: In a large bowl, mix together the baking soda, citric acid, and colloidal oatmeal. To get rid of clumps in the mixture, you can push the powders through a sifter or break them up with your fingers. Citric acid has a tendency to take off nail polish, so wear gloves to protect your manicure. Thoroughly stir the ingredients together.

TWO: Add the cocoa butter to a small heat and fragrance-safe container and melt in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts. Be careful when removing from the microwave as the container may be hot. Add 0.7 ounces of Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil, 0.6 ounces of polysorbate 80, and 1 ounce of oat extract to the melted butter. Use a spoon to fully mix the ingredients together.

THREE: Add the oil mixture to the powder mixture. Use your hands to fully mix the ingredients together.

FOUR: Test the consistency of the bath bomb mixture. The perfect consistency for molding is a texture similar to damp sand that holds its shape when squeezed. If it’s too dry, use one hand to spritz the mixture with witch hazel and one to mix. Continue spritzing until the mixture holds its shape when squeezed. Below, you can see that the mixture forms a ball when squeezed. This means that the mixture will hold its shape in the mold as well.

FIVE: Add a pinch of oatmeal to the bottom of one half of the mold and cover it with bath bomb mixture. Press the mixture lightly into the mold. Fill the other half of the mold and press the mixture in lightly. Then, scoop more of the mixture on top until it’s mounded in the center. Fill up the second half of the bath bomb, mounding the mixture in the center again. Having loose bath bomb mixture on both sides of the mold and a mound in the center acts as the “glue” when they are pressed together.

SIX: Press the two halves of the mold together firmly until they touch. Then, begin to twist and pull the top half off carefully. Once the top half is removed, allow the bath bomb to sit in the bottom half for several hours up to overnight. If they don’t stick together the first time, keep trying. It can be a little tricky to get the bath bombs to stick together, but practice makes perfect! See how to use the stainless steel molds in the How to Make Bath Fizzies video on Soap Queen TV.

SEVEN: Repeat the process with the other bath bombs. When they’re unmolded, allow them to sit for 24 hours before using or wrapping in plastic wrap to protect them from excess moisture. Learn more about packing and storing your bath bombs in the How to Store Handmade Bath Products post.

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Mondo Oatmeal Bath Bomb DIY

These Mondo Oatmeal Bath Bombs feel soothing and luxurious in the tub.

Course Bath Bombs

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold
• 4 cups Baking Soda Sodium Bicarbonate
• 2 cups Citric Acid
• 1 oz. Colloidal Oatmeal
• 4 oz. Cocoa Butter
• 1 oz. Oat Extract
• 0.7 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
• 0.6 oz. Polysorbate 80
• Witch Hazel in a Spray Bottle
• Optional: Cyclomethicone

Instructions

OPTIONAL MOLD PREP: Cylomethicone helps the bath bomb release more easily. Pour a small amount on a cotton ball and coat both halves of the mold. This step is optional, but if you have never used the Stainless Steel Bath Bomb Mold before, it’s recommended.

• In a large bowl, mix together the baking soda, citric acid, and colloidal oatmeal. To get rid of clumps in the mixture, you can push the powders through a sifter or break them up with your fingers. Citric acid has a tendency to take off nail polish, so wear gloves to protect your manicure. Thoroughly stir the ingredients together.
• Add the cocoa butter to a small heat and fragrance-safe container and melt in the microwave using 30-60 second bursts. Be careful when removing from the microwave as the container may be hot. Add 0.7 ounces of Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil, 0.6 ounces of polysorbate 80, and 1 ounce of oat extract to the melted butter. Use a spoon to fully mix the ingredients together.
• Add the oil mixture to the powder mixture. Use your hands to fully mix the ingredients together.
• Test the consistency of the bath bomb mixture. The perfect consistency for molding is a texture similar to damp sand that holds its shape when squeezed. If it’s too dry, use one hand to spritz the mixture with witch hazel and one to mix. Continue spritzing until the mixture holds its shape when squeezed. Below, you can see that the mixture forms a ball when squeezed. This means that the mixture will hold its shape in the mold as well.
• Add a pinch of oatmeal to the bottom of one half of the mold and cover it with bath bomb mixture. Press the mixture lightly into the mold. Fill the other half of the mold and press the mixture in lightly. Then, scoop more of the mixture on top until it’s mounded in the center. Fill up the second half of the bath bomb, mounding the mixture in the center again. Having loose bath bomb mixture on both sides of the mold and a mound in the center acts as the “glue” when they are pressed together.
• Press the two halves of the mold together firmly until they touch. Then, begin to twist and pull the top half off carefully. Once the top half is removed, allow the bath bomb to sit in the bottom half for several hours up to overnight. If they don’t stick together the first time, keep trying. It can be a little tricky to get the bath bombs to stick together, but practice makes perfect! See how to use the stainless steel molds in the How to Make Bath Fizzies video on Soap Queen TV.
• Repeat the process with the other bath bombs. When they’re unmolded, allow them to sit for 24 hours before using or wrapping in plastic wrap to protect them from excess moisture. Learn more about packing and storing your bath bombs in the How to Store Handmade Bath Products post.

The post DIY Oatmeal Bath Bombs appeared first on Soap Queen.

Goat milk soap is well known for its creamy lather and skin-loving properties. Goat milk is particularly nourishing because of capric-caprylic triglyceride, which helps form a barrier on the skin to help inhibit the loss of moisture. Goat milk also contains vitamins A, D and B6, as well lactic acid which is thought to contribute to skin smoothness. It’s no wonder why goat milk soap is loved by so many!

This goat milk soap recipe contains goat milk from a local farm. Using fresh goat milk is a fantastic way to highlight local products and the unique, handmade properties of your goat milk soap. If you can’t get your hands on fresh goat milk in your area, powdered goat milk is a great alternative. You may also find goat milk at your local grocery store, co-op or farmer’s market.

Creating goat milk soap does take some extra prep work. If you’ve never tried making milk soap before, you may want to get a simpler cold process soap recipe under your belt first (this one is great!). Adding lye to milk can scorch the milk without proper preparation. Freezing the milk first keeps temperatures cool and prevents scorching. Learn how to prep milk for milk soap, and watch this Goat Milk Soap video to see the process in action.

If you’re ready to dive into goat milk soap for the first time, this recipe is perfect. It’s simple with one color and a thick texture, so no need to worry stick blending too much. It’s scented with Oatmeal Milk and Honey, one of our all-time most popular fragrance oils. It does discolor in cold process soap, so titanium dioxide is added to keep the bars light and creamy looking. There is something so appealing about a simple bar of creamy milk soap!

What You’ll Need:
9 Bar Birchwood Mold
Silicone Liner for 9 Bar Mold
5.3 Apricot Kernel Oil (15%)
8.8 oz. Coconut Oil (25%)
11.5 oz. Olive Oil Pomace (33%)
2.5 oz. Cocoa Butter Cubes  (7%)
7 oz. Palm Oil (20%)
4.9 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.6 oz. Goat Milk
2 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

MILK PREP: When lye is added to milk, it causes the milk to reach temperatures up to 200 ° F. This scorches the milk, causing it to smell bad and develop a dark yellow color. A technique to prevent the milk from scorching is to keep temperatures as cool as possible. Our preferred technique is to freeze the goat milk, and add the sodium hydroxide lye flakes directly to the frozen milk. To keep the milk extra, extra cold, you can place the container of frozen milk into a larger container with ice. In this project we skipped this step, but it’s a personal preference.

First, measure out 11.6 ounces of goat milk. Then, pour the milk into ice cube trays (in this case we used Medium 9 Ball Silicone Molds). Allow the milk to fully freeze. Once frozen, empty the milk ice cubes into a container appropriate for mixing lye. When adding the milk ice cubes to the container, place the container on a scale to make sure you have the correct amount of milk. Although it was measured previously, some milk might be lost in the freezing/transferring process. If you’re missing some milk, pour cold goat milk into the container to supplement what you have. Adding distilled water to supplement would also be okay.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

LYE PREP: With safety gear on, slowly add about 1/4 of the lye flakes directly to the frozen goat milk. Use a non-reactive spoon to stir the lye flakes and goat milk together. Slowly, the flakes will begin to melt the goat milk cubes. After a few minutes of stirring, add another 1/4 of the flakes and continue stirring for several minutes.

Continue this process until all the lye flakes have been added to the goat milk. Continue stirring and stirring…and stirring! The goat milk will continue to melt as more lye is added and stirred. Once the milk has fully melted, continue to stir to make sure all the lye flakes have completely dissolved. Because the temperatures are low, the lye flakes do not dissolve as quickly. Listen and look for lye flakes on the bottom of your container; lye flakes can take a lot longer to dissolve in cooler temperature liquids. Patience is key! Any undissolved lye in your soap could cause skin irritation, or even lye burns, so take extra time to make sure all the lye is dissolved.

Once all the lye has been added, the milk may become yellow. Below, our milk reached about 90 ° F and developed a very slight yellow color. This color of milk is suitable for this recipe. But, if you’d like to make sure your soap batter is as light as possible for your color palette, placing the container of frozen milk into an ice bath container helps keep temperatures cooler, as shown in this post. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the milk solution. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

Now that the lye and milk solution is prepped, it’s time to prep the other ingredients.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 3 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into 2 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil, like sweet almond oil or sunflower oil. In this recipe, we used a slightly more concentrated colorant-oil ratio to avoid adding too much extra oil.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

ONE: Fully melt and combine the coconut oil, palm oil, olive oil pomace, cocoa butter, apricot kernel oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (the milk lye solution will be on the cooler side, that’s okay), add the Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil directly to the oils. Usually fragrance oils are added at trace, but because we know this fragrance behaves so well and thin trace is not a concern, it can be added first.

TWO: Add the milk and lye solution slowly to the oils. As you add the milk, begin pulsing your stick blender. Because the milk and lye solution is on the cooler side and the recipe contains hard oils that solidify at cooler temperature, adding the lye and milk solution gradually can help prevent false trace.

THREE: Once all the lye solution has been added, continue to blend until thin to medium trace.

FOUR: Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide, and use the stick blender to stir and blend the colorant into the batter using short bursts.

FIVE: Once the colorant is completely incorporated, pour the soap into the mold. Tap it firmly on the counter to eliminate air bubbles, and use a spoon or spatula to spread the soap evenly into the mold.

SIX: Using a small stainless steel spoon, create texture on the top of the soap. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it!

SEVEN: Once you’re happy with the top, insert the dividers into the mold. Push the dividers all the way to the bottom of the mold. Spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help avoid soda ash. Milk soap has a tendency to heat up due to the sugar in the milk. To keep it cool, place the soap in the fridge or freezer for at least 3 hours, up to overnight. Then, allow it to sit in the mold for about 3-4 days. Soap that is placed in the fridge or freezer for the first few hours of saponification can take a little longer to unmold. If you find the silicone liner is not pulling away from the sides of the mold easily, give it another day to unmold. Remove the soap from the dividers (see the unmolding process in this video here) and allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy your goat milk soap!

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Creamy Goat Milk Soap Recipe

This soap is made with goat milk for an extra creamy feeling on the skin.

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 9 Bar Birchwood Mold
• Silicone Liner for 9 Bar Mold
• 5.3 Apricot Kernel Oil 15%
• 8.8 oz. Coconut Oil 25%
• 11.5 oz. Olive Oil Pomace 33%
• 2.5 oz. Cocoa Butter Cubes 7%
• 7 oz Palm Oil 20%
• 4.9 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.6 oz. Goat Milk
• 2 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
• Titanium Dioxide

Instructions

MILK PREP: When lye is added to milk, it heats up to around 200 ° F. This scorches the milk, causing discoloration and an unpleasant odor. To prevent scorching, it's important keep temperatures as cool as possible. Our preferred technique is to freeze the goat milk and add the sodium hydroxide lye flakes directly to the frozen milk. To keep the milk extra, extra cold, you can place the container into a larger container with ice. In this project we skipped this step, but it's a personal preference. Measure out 11.6 ounces of goat milk and pour it into ice cube trays (in this case we used Medium 9 Ball Silicone Molds). Allow the milk to fully freeze. Then, place a container appropriate for mixing lye on a scale and weigh out the frozen cubes. Although it was measured previously, some milk might be lost in the freezing/transferring process. If you're missing any, pour cold goat milk into the container until you have 11.6 ounces. You can also use cold distilled water.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

LYE PREP: With safety gear on, slowly add about 1/4 of the lye flakes directly to the frozen goat milk. Use a stainless steel spoon to stir the lye flakes and goat milk together. Slowly, the flakes will begin to melt the goat milk cubes. After a few minutes of stirring, add another 1/4 of the flakes and continue stirring for several minutes. Continue this process until all the lye flakes have been added to the goat milk. Continue stirring and stirring...and stirring! The goat milk will continue to melt as more lye is added. Once the milk has fully melted, continue to stir to make sure all the lye flakes have completely dissolved. Because the temperatures are low, the lye flakes do not dissolve as quickly. Listen and look for lye flakes on the bottom of your container; lye flakes can take a lot longer to dissolve in cooler temperature liquids. Patience is key! Any undissolved lye in your soap could cause skin irritation or even lye burns, so take extra time to make sure all the lye is dissolved. Once all the lye has been added, the milk may become yellow. Below, our milk reached about 90 ° F and developed a very slight yellow color. This color of milk is suitable for this recipe. But, if you'd like to make sure your soap batter is as light as possible for your color palette, placing the container of frozen milk into an ice bath helps keep temperatures cooler, as shown in this post. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the milk solution. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate. Now that the lye and milk solution is ready, it's time to prep the other ingredients.

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap. =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Disperse 3 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into 2 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil, like sweet almond oil or sunflower oil. In this recipe, we used a slightly more concentrated colorant-oil ratio to avoid adding too much extra oil.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 2 ounces of Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil into a glass, fragrance oil safe container. Set aside.

• Fully melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil pomace, cocoa butter, apricot kernel oil, and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (the milk lye solution will be on the cooler side, that's okay), add the Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil directly to the oils. Usually fragrance oils are added at trace, we know this fragrance behaves so well and thin trace is not a concern, it can be added first.
• Add the milk and lye solution slowly to the oils. As you add the milk, begin pulsing your stick blender. Because the milk and lye solution is on the cooler side and the recipe contains hard oils that solidify at cooler temperatures, adding the lye and milk solution gradually can help prevent false trace.
• Once all the lye solution has been added, continue to stick blend until you reach thin to medium trace.
• Add all the dispersed titanium dioxide, and use the stick blender to stir and blend the colorant into the batter using short bursts.
• Once the colorant is completely incorporated, pour the soap into the mold. Tap it firmly on the counter to eliminate air bubbles, and use a spoon or spatula to spread the soap evenly into the mold.
• Using a small stainless steel spoon, create texture on the top of the soap. There is no right or wrong way to do this, so have fun with it!
• Once you’re happy with the top, insert the dividers into the mold. Push the dividers all the way to the bottom of the mold. Spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help avoid soda ash. Milk soap has a tendency to heat up due to the sugar in the milk. To keep it cool, place the soap in the fridge or freezer for at least 3 hours, up to overnight. Then, allow it to sit in the mold for about 3-4 days. Soap that is placed in the fridge or freezer for the first few hours of saponification can take a little longer to unmold. If you find the silicone liner is not pulling away from the sides of the mold easily, give it another day to unmold. Remove the soap from the dividers (see the unmolding process in this video here) and allow the bars to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

The post Creamy Goat Milk Soap Recipe appeared first on Soap Queen.

This Goat Milk and Oatmeal Cold Process soap is made with powdered goat milk, oat extract and colloidal oatmeal for a bar that is gentle on the skin. Colloidal oatmeal is extremely fine ground oatmeal that is fantastic for irritated or sensitive skin. Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil gives this bar a warm and comforting scent. The fragrance also lends its vanilla discoloration to the top layer, which darkens the Brown Oxide used to color it. For more information on fragrance discoloration, click through the Why Did My Soap Turn Brown post.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
1.7 oz. Castor Oil
10.5 oz. Coconut Oil
10.5 oz. Olive Oil
8.8 oz. Palm Oil
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
11.5 oz. Distilled Water
2 oz. Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
1 Tbs. Oat Extract 
Titanium Dioxide
Brown Oxide
Gold Sparkle Mica
Colloidal Oatmeal
Powdered Goat Milk
Oatmeal (for top)
Optional: Crinkle Cutter

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

MILK PREP: Mix 1.5 oz. of goat milk powder into the distilled water. Once the powder is completely mixed into the water and contains no clumps, pour the milk into ice cube trays and place them into the freezer until completely hard (several hours to overnight).

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoons of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoons of the brown oxide into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon colloidal oatmeal into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

ONE: Remove the fully frozen milk from the ice cube trays and place into a container that has been placed in an ice bath. Slowly add lye and stir until the lye is fully dissolved and the milk has become liquid. Click here to see this process and more tips on creating a lye and milk mixture. The more slowly you add the lye, the cooler the temperature of this mixture will stay. This process will take at least 10 minutes. Make sure there are no undissolved lye bits. The lack of heat slows the process considerably. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye milk. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 tsp. sodium lactate.

TWO: Melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, castor, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below, add the lye milk to the oils and stick blend until medium trace. Because this design is simple, a thicker trace than normal works great.

THREE: Add 1 tablespoon of oat extract, and use a whisk to combine.

FOUR: Split the batch evenly into two containers. Each container will hold about 3 cups. To one container, add all of the colloidal oatmeal and titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to fully blend in.

FIVE: To the other container, add 2 teaspoons dispersed brown oxide and all of the Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil. Use a whisk to fully mix in.

SIX: Pour the white soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap and get rid of air bubbles.

SEVEN: Use a powder duster to sprinkle on a thin layer of Gold Sparkle Mica. Don’t use too much, or the layers of soap may separate. Once the mica has been sprinkled on, close your eyes and gently blow on the mica to evenly disperse it.

EIGHT: Slowly and carefully, pour the brown soap into the mold. Pour the soap over a spoon or spatula to make sure the soap does not break through to the white layer.

NINE: Gently tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap in the mold. This also helps get rid of air bubbles.

TEN: Use a spoon to create peaks and texture into the top of the soap.

ELEVEN: Sprinkle a layer of oatmeal on the top. Once you’re happy with the amount of oatmeal, spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Place the soap in the freezer for  5-24 hours to help prevent gel phase. Remove the soap from the freezer and allow to sit in the mold for 4-5 days. Milk soap can be a little softer due to the extra milk fat. Patience is key! Use the crinkle cutter to create a textured bar, or a sharp non-serrated knife for a smooth cut. Make sure there are no pieces of oatmeal directly under the knife, otherwise it may create drag marks. You can also turn the soap on its side to cut it in order to prevent drag marks.

Have you used goat milk in cold process soap before? Be on the lookout for more milk tutorials coming soon!

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Goat Milk & Oatmeal Cold Process Soap Tutorial

This cold process soap is extremely skin loving, with colloidal oatmeal, goat milk and oat extract.

Course Cold process soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 3.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
• 1.7 oz. Castor Oil
• 10.5 oz. Coconut Oil
• 10.5 oz. Olive Oil
• 8.8 oz. Palm Oil
• 5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 11.5 oz. Distilled Water
• 2 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbs. Oat Extract
• Titanium Dioxide
• Brown Oxide
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Colloidal Oatmeal
• Oatmeal for top
• Optional: Crinkle Cutter

Instructions

MILK PREP: Mix 1.5 oz. of goat milk powder into the distilled water. Once the powder is completely mixed into the water and contains no clumps, pour the milk into ice cube trays and place them into the freezer until completely hard (several hours to overnight).

COLOR PREP: To ensure that the Titanium Dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Please note this is an optional tip but it does help with the titanium dioxide clumping in the soap =) To micronize colorant, simply use a coffee grinder to blend the colorant to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable, stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. Then, disperse 1 teaspoons of the colorant into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Disperse 1 teaspoons of the brown oxide into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Then, disperse 1 teaspoon colloidal oatmeal into 1 tablespoon light liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get the clumps of color worked out smoothly.

• Remove the fully frozen milk from the ice cube trays and place into a container that has been placed in an ice bath. Slowly add lye and stir until the lye is fully dissolved and the milk has become liquid. Click here to see this process and more tips on creating a lye and milk mixture. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye milk. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2.5 tsp. sodium lactate.
• Melt and combine the coconut oil, olive oil, castor, sweet almond oil and palm oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). Once the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below, add the lye milk to the oils and stick blend until medium trace. Because this design is simple, a thicker trace than normal works great.
• Add 1 tablespoon of oat extract, and use a whisk to combine.
• Split the batch evenly into two containers. Each container will hold about 3 cups. To one container, add all of the colloidal oatmeal and titanium dioxide. Use a whisk to fully blend in.
• To the other container, add 2 teaspoons dispersed brown oxide and all of the Oatmeal, Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil. Use a whisk to fully mix in.
• Pour the white soap into the mold, and firmly tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap and get rid of air bubbles.
• Use a powder duster to sprinkle on a thin layer of Gold Sparkle Mica. Don’t use too much, or the layers of soap may separate. Once the mica has been sprinkled on, close your eyes and gently blow on the mica to evenly disperse it.
• Slowly and carefully, pour the brown soap into the mold. Pour the soap over a spoon or spatula to make sure the soap does not break through to the white layer.
• Gently tap the mold onto the counter to evenly disperse the soap in the mold. This also helps get rid of air bubbles.
• Use a spoon to create peaks and texture into the top of the soap.
• Sprinkle a layer of oatmeal on the top. Once you’re happy with the amount of oatmeal, spray the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Place the soap in the freezer for 5-24 hours to help prevent gel phase. Remove the soap from the freezer and allow to sit in the mold for 4-5 days. Milk soap can be a little softer due to the extra milk fat. Patience is key! Use the crinkle cutter to create a textured bar, or a sharp non-serrated for a smooth cut.

The post Goat Milk & Oatmeal Cold Process Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

The rain has really picked up around here, and we’re once again starting to live up to our nickname as ‘Evergreen State’. But cooler temperatures and a wetter climate doesn’t have to be a bad thing — in fact, for this soap we took a cue from all the evergreen trees around here that give us our lush reputation. I love the way the brown, white and black colors swirl to look like tree rings, and the gold mica dusting on the outside mimics bark. For this technique, we used our fabulous Silicone Column Mold, which seals so tightly you can fill it with water and not worry about spilling a drop. We scented this soap with our ever popular Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil for a warm, comforting touch.

What You’ll Need:

3.6 oz. Canola Oil
.69 oz. Castor Oil
7.5 oz. Coconut Oil
3.4 oz. Olive Oil
7.5 oz. Palm Oil
3.3 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
7.5 oz. distilled water
1.5 oz. Oatmeal Milk and Honey Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Brown Oxide
Black Oxide
Silicone Column Mold

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Side note: This soap stayed pretty soft for a while. I wish I would have used 1 tsp of Sodium Lactate per pound of oils (added to my lye water).

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of each colorant into 1 tablespoon of Sunflower or Sweet Almond Oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get clumps worked out smoothly.

MOLD PREP: This mold is absolutely water and soap tight but you need to make sure it is FULLY CLICKED in the seam area. Run your fingers over those seams extra times just to be on the extra safe side.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Combine the Canola, Castor, Coconut, Olive and Palm Oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of Palm Oil before portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that lasts longer in the shower and releases faster from the mold, you can add Sodium Lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of Sodium Lactate per pound of oils in the recipe.

THREE: Once the batter has reached thin trace, divide it into three equal portions (each container should hold approx. 4 cups of batter). Side note: How awesomely amazing are these containers? They can even hold lye water and their long pouring spouts make for easy design work.

FOUR: Now add the dispersed colorants. We added 3 teaspoons of dispersed Titanium Dioxide to one cup, 1 teaspoon disperse Black Oxide to the second and 1 teaspoon dispersed Brown Oxide to the third. Whisk the colorant into the batter so as to not accelerate trace.

FIVE: Divide the fragrance evenly between the three cups. Use a spatula or spoon to incorporate the fragrance into the batter.

SIX: Once the fragrance and colorant have been fully mixed into the batter, pour off about 1/4 cup of one color into the mold. In between pours, use a Powder Duster to dust a thin layer of Sparkle Gold Mica directly over the opening of the silicone column mold.

You can see from the above photo how thin of a trace I’m working with. I really wanted to have the colors swirl beautifully together, rather than be a traditional faux-funnel pour (which works with slightly thicker trace to suspend the design).

SEVEN: Continue alternating between pouring each color and dusting a mica vein. Continue the pattern until the soap fills the mold. I count to ‘three’ to know when to stop with each color. It’s more accurate for me than eyeballing the pour.

To unmold the soap:

Because this is a particularly soft soap, we recommend waiting 1-2 weeks before unmolding it and then another week after that to cut it. Really, I said “weeks”. You can freeze the soap and it will come out sooner but we just were super patient. The recipe combined with the nature of silicone molds to  not release and evaporate water makes this a longer release and cutting period that most soaps.

ONE: Stand the mold up on its end and pull apart the seam on one side. If you find that the mold is pulling soap off the loaf, it is still too soft and needs to be left in the mold for a few more days. Once the seam has been opened on one side, gently pull apart the seam on the other side.

TWO: Even though you’ve unmolded the soap, it may still be soft enough to show finger prints if you touch it directly. To eliminate this, roll the loaf onto a piece of wax paper (shine-y side up!). Using a sharp knife, cut the soap between 1 – 1.5 inches thick. Place on a cookie cooling rack to dry.

Allow the soaps to dry for another 1 – 2 weeks, then enjoy!

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