Oxide Archives - Page 5 of 6

Copper Penny & Emerald Mica Tests

December 31, 2009 Filed Under: Bramble Berry News

Patti has done another incredible batch of soap and I wanted to share her comments about soaping up with some of our new micas. The batch below was made with White Pearl Mica, Green Chrome Oxide and Emerald Mica. The Emerald Mica and Green Chrome acted so similarly that she decided to do another batch.

This time it was pretty clear which was which – the Emerald Mica went a gorgeous light green and the Copper Penny Mica is a glamorous shade of copper and sparkles.

The Emerald Green starts out a lot more green when you first put it into the soap but then slowly turns into a beautiful pastel green. It is a lovely color and would work well with lots of springtime fragrances.

Patti also made this exotic looking bar with our Luster Black Mica, Sparkle Gold Mica and (sadly discontinued) Blue Pearl Mica. Though the fragrance she used will discolor, she’s thrilled about the discoloration because the colors will ‘pop’ even more with the discoloration. The contrast will highlight the micas even more.

Thanks for the report, Patti!

Glitter Cut Out Soap Tutorial

November 23, 2009 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Here’s what you’ll need
Scalloped Rectangle Mold
NOTE: The mold shown in this tutorial has been discontinued. The kit now contains the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold.
Wassail Fragrance Oil
Merlot Mica
Liquid Black Colorant
Liquid Brown
Clear Soap Base
Iridescent Glitter
Your Choice of Micas
Leaf PDF OR Leaf Cookie Cutters
Hair Spray
Craft Knife

ONE: Melt 4 ounces of clear melt and pour soap and mix in 1 ml of Bramble Berry’s favorite new fragrance oil, Wassail. It smells like hot, spiced Christmas Punch and has notes of tangerine, juicy apple and orange zest spiced with ginger, cinnamon stick, nutmeg and clove. Are you drooling yet?

TWO: Stir in a couple drops of liquid black colorant and 1 mini scoop of Merlot Mica and pour the soap into 1 cavity of the scalloped rectangle mold. Allow the soap to cool for 4-6 hours

NOTE: The Scalloped Rectangle Mold has been discontinued. It has been substituted with the 12 Cavity Rectangle Silicone Mold.

Variation: OR stir in a mini scoop of Brick Red Oxide. Try mixing the oxide with a little rubbing alcohol before adding it to the soap. This will eliminate any clumping of the colorant.

THREE: Melt 6 ounces of clear melt and pour soap and mix in 1.5 ml of Wassail fragrance oil.

FOUR: Stir in a couple drops of liquid brown colorant and pour the soap into the brownie pan tray mold. Allow the soap to cool for 20-30 minutes and pull the soap out of the mold.

FIVE: Now it’s time to make our cut outs and you have a big decision to make. Are you going to use a cookie cutter or a stencil? Below are both variations…

Using a cookie cutter: Press your cookie cutter into the soap. Pull the cookie cutter out of the soap and pop out the soap piece. Then, smooth the edges with your finger.

Using a Stencil: You can either use our PDF template or leaves you’ve collected. Cut the paper around the object and place it on the flat square of soap. Lightly cut the paper with your craft knife so it leaves an outline on the soap. Then, remove your paper and follow your original outline and cut all the way through the soap. To see this demonstrated, check out the Soap Queen TV episode on how to make monogram wedding favors.

SIX: Spritz your cut out piece with hair spray and sprinkle glitter onto the piece of soap. (Did you miss the ‘How to color glitter’ post? Click here to review it and learn how to make all kinds of fun glitter colors.) The hair spray will help the glitter stick to the soap. Dump the excess glitter into a bowl for later use.

SEVEN: Melt 1 ounce of clear melt and pour. Use a dropper and place a drop or two of melted soap in the center of your scalloped rectangle soap. Then place the glittered cut out on top of the melted soap and let cool (about 5 minutes).

EIGHT: Give the soap a final spritz with hair spray to make sure your glitter sticks.

Glitter Cut Out Soap Tutorial

These glittery soaps are perfect for fall!

Author: Soap Queen

Recipe type: Melt and Pour

Ingredients

Slim Broad Rectangle Mold
Wassail Fragrance Oil
Merlot Mica
Liquid Black Colorant
Liquid Brown
Clear Soap Base
Iridescent Glitter
Your Choice of Micas
Leaf PDF OR Leaf Cookie Cutters
Hair Spray
Craft Knife

Instructions

Melt 4 ounces of clear melt and pour soap and mix in 1 ml of Bramble Berry’s favorite new fragrance oil, Wassail. It smells like hot, spiced Christmas Punch and has notes of tangerine, juicy apple and orange zest spiced with ginger, cinnamon stick, nutmeg and clove.
Stir in a couple drops of liquid black colorant and 1 mini scoop of Merlot Mica and pour the soap into 1 cavity of the scalloped rectangle mold. Allow the soap to cool for 4-6 hours. OR stir in a mini scoop of Brick Red Oxide. Try mixing the oxide with a little rubbing alcohol before adding it to the soap. This will eliminate any clumping of the colorant.
Melt 6 ounces of clear melt and pour soap and mix in 1.5 ml of Wassail fragrance oil.
Stir in a couple drops of liquid brown colorant and pour the soap into the brownie pan tray mold. Allow the soap to cool for 20-30 minutes and pull the soap out of the mold.
Now it’s time to make our cut outs and you have a big decision to make. Are you going to use a cookie cutter or a stencil? Below are both variations.
Using a cookie cutter: Press your cookie cutter into the soap. Pull the cookie cutter out of the soap and pop out the soap piece. Then, smooth the edges with your finger.
Using a Stencil: You can either use our PDF template or leaves you’ve collected. Cut the paper around the object and place it on the flat square of soap. Lightly cut the paper with your craft knife so it leaves an outline on the soap. Then, remove your paper and follow your original outline and cut all the way through the soap. To see this demonstrated, check out the Soap Queen TV episode on how to make monogram wedding favors.
Spritz your cut out piece with hair spray and sprinkle glitter onto the piece of soap. (Did you miss the ‘How to color glitter’ post? Click here to review it and learn how to make all kinds of fun glitter colors.) The hair spray will help the glitter stick to the soap. Dump the excess glitter into a bowl for later use.
Melt 1 ounce of clear melt and pour. Use a dropper and place a drop or two of melted soap in the center of your scalloped rectangle soap. Then place the glittered cut out on top of the melted soap and let cool (about 5 minutes).
Give the soap a final spritz with hair spray to make sure your glitter sticks.

Soap Queen TV: Holiday Soap Stamp Project

October 22, 2009 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

This video demonstrates a technique I shared with Mario Bosquez on Living today (a Martha Stewart Sirius radio program) . The whole crew loved it so much I thought I should share it with my Soap Queen TV viewers too!

I love this innovative and economical project. It’s a great way to make reusable seasonal designs out of plain soap molds – allowing you to change your designs without purchasing new molds.

Soap Queen TV: Holiday Stamp Soap from Soap Queen on Vimeo.

Here’s what you’ll need:
16 oz. Clear melt & pour soap
4 oz White melt & pour soap
Unmounted rubber stamps (the clear ones seem to work best)
Red-blue mica
Merlot mica
Liquid green oxide
Cranberry Fig fragrance
Melt & Pour tool kit
Basic Rectangle Mold

Rebatching Can be Sweet – Redux

October 18, 2009 Filed Under: Cold Process Soap

In case you missed the tutorial on how to rebatch soap, you can find it here.

I got the super bright colors in the loaf above with using the Bramble Berry Labcolors line for the Yellow and Purple and the Liquid Non Bleeding Blue Oxide for the blue color.

Soap for Video Game Enthusiasts

August 18, 2009 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

These entertaining Pac-Man soaps were made by Bramble Berry employee and packer extraordinaire, Zach!

Here’s what Zach used:
White Melt and Pour
Clear Melt and Pour
Liquid Yellow Colorant
Liquid Black Colorant
Basic Round Mold
Kumquat Fragrance Oil
Droppers

Let’s make Pac-Man come to life*…

Step 1: Melt about 1 ounce of clear melt and pour soap. Add 1 drop of liquid black colorant. Then use a dropper to drop a dime size of black soap into each cavity of the mold (this will be Pac-Man’s eye). Let soap cool.

Step 2: Melt about 14 ounces of white melt and pour soap, add your liquid yellow colorant and your kumquat fragrance oil. Mix well. Spritz the black layer of soap in your mold with rubbing alcohol and pour your yellow layer. Spritz with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any air bubbles.

Tip: Make sure your yellow soap is no hotter than 120 degrees when you pour (any hotter will melt the black layer soap).

Fragrance Tip: We recommend 1/4-1/2 ounce of fragrance oil per pound of melt and pour soap base.

Step 3: Once the soap has cooled completely, pop the soap out of the mold. Then cut out Pac-Man’s triangle mouth using a knife or soap cutter.

Game Over

* or as lifelike as you can make a bar of soap that’s designed to be used up completely

Layers Made Easy

July 23, 2009 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Yes, it’s that time once again! Soap Queen TV is here.

This week’s episode is all about layers. I make a very boldly colored soap to show how you can take a plain mold and spice it up.

Soap Queen TV Episode 12: Basic Layers from Soap Queen on Vimeo.

Here’s a link to the bleeding colors post I mentioned.

And here’s what you’ll need to make this project:
Clear melt & pour soap base
Liquid red oxide
Liquid black oxide
Liquid green oxide
Sparkle gold mica
Mango Peach Salsa fragrance
Loaf mold
Basic shapes mold

Spray bottle with rubbing alcohol
Heat safe container for melting soap
stir stick or spoon

Karma Soaps & New Loaf Molds

March 25, 2009 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

We’re ecstatic! Our new 2.5-3 lb loaf molds are finally here! We couldn’t wait to try one out so we took a mold straight to our soaping lab and created an earthy and colorful Karma Goodness soap. See our instructions below to make your own “good karma”.

Here’s What You’ll Need
3 lb. Loaf Mold
3 lbs. Clear Melt and Pour
1.5 oz Karma Synergy Essential Oil Blend
Ultramarine Purple Oxide
Heavy Metal Gold Mica
Gold Sparkle Mica
Cellini Blue Mica
Microwave safe bowl (pyrex)

Layer 1: Melt 12 oz of clear melt and pour (30 second intervals in the microwave). Add fragrance oil and a pinch of ultramarine purple oxide. Pour soap into loaf mold.

Tip: Mix your micas or oxides with a little rubbing alcohol first to eliminate spots and speckles. Then add to soap base. Give it a final spritz to eliminate bubbles.

Layer 2: Melt 12 oz. of clear melt and pour. Add fragrance oil and a pinch of heavy metal gold mica. Spritz the first layer with rubbing alcohol (to make sure layers adhere) and pour your second layer. To achieve the texture in this layer, stir the soap in the mold until it cools (2-3 minutes), creating a chunky type layer. Give it a spritz with alcohol 2-3 times during the cooling process to eliminate bubbles.

Tip: Before pouring your second layer, make sure the melted soap has cooled to 120 degrees. If it’s any hotter it will melt the bottom layer of soap.
Layer 3: Melt 12 oz of clear melt and pour. Add fragrance oil, a pinch of Gold Sparkle Mica and stir. Spritz the textured layer before pouring the soap and spritz again with alcohol to eliminate bubbles after pouring.

Layer 4: Repeat step 3 using the Cellini blue mica. Remember to give the soap a final spritz to eliminate bubbles.
Final: Once the soap has cooled, turn your soap mold upside down and pull the edges away from the soap to break the air lock. Once the air lock is completely broken your soap loaf will fall out of the mold.

P.S. – I’m traveling today to sunny Arizona to go listen to Jim Collins (from Good to Great fame) speak. He’ll be talking about how to build a company to last the ages. I’m excited and will definitely be blogging as I can.

Crescent Moon Tutorial – Final Reveal

September 17, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Click here to learn how to make your own Crescent Moon, Starry Nights soap.

These examples were made by brand new melt and pour soapers. If they can do it, so can you!

Crescent Moon Tutorial – Day Two

September 16, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

Click here for Day One

Step Seven: By this point the white soap you injected into in the mold is likely to be ready (touch with your finger to make sure it’s hard). Then hold the entire mold up to the light and you should be able to some faint impression of the mold design. Knowing that the moon is on the left, begin to scrape (with your white scraping tool) very thin layers of soap from right to left, hold up to the light, scrape more, hold up to the light, scrape more.

Step Seven, still: By the 3^rd scraping or so you can actually start to feel the bottom of the mold and that’s ok. What you want to achieve is to scrape most of the soap from the bottom, while leaving the stars and moon intact.At some point you can only guess what the finished product will look like (but generally speaking — if you leave too much soap at the bottom you may end up with really heavy clouds, if you scrape off too much you may actually scrape your stars off and end up with just a moon so aim for something between the extremes).

Step Eight: Now it’s time to revisit the navy blue Lily scented soap. Uncover and stir if it has begun to cool down to the point where there are thick spots just zap it for 20 seconds and stir. The Navy soap is ready to pour over the white soap in the mold when it is completely blended yet still warm enough to hold your pinkie finger tip in without any pain at all. The idea being, you want it liquid, but cool enough so it won’t melt your thinnest star detail in your mold.

Spritz the white layer!

Step Eight: When the navy soap is at the right temperature cover it back up with the plastic wrap, spray a single cavity with alcohol 5 sprays (to cover the entire bottom of the mold) peel back the plastic wrap and fill the cavity in one fast pour and spray the filled cavity with one spray of alcohol to remove any bubbles. Spray the 2^nd cavity, and fill with one fast pour, continue ‘til you’re done. Spritz the white layer!

Spritz the back of the soap to remove any excess bubbles from pouring.

Let the mold set overnight if possible (or at least 4 hours). FYI, The clear shaving soap takes much longer to harden than the white shea butter soap. After the soaps have cooled (for at least 4 hours), for best results, cover the cooled soaps still in the mold with plastic wrap and turn detail side up in your freezer under the blower for 3 minutes then pull out and give one quick firm push to each cavity.

Look for the final reveal of this fun and easy (really, it is easy! Just try it, you’ll see) soap tomorrow.

Crescent Moon Tutorial – Day One

September 15, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

PJ generously shared her technique for making realistic Starry Night soaps at the Soap Intensive Weekend held at Otion this summer. Now, she’s sharing the love with all of you. Thanks PJ!

The following recipe makes 4 Bars of Crescent Moon Soap (pssst – don’t want to make your own? Buy one for $7 here):

You will need:

Pre-heat 4 quart pan of water on simmer (for rinsing your tools)
1 dropper full of Gardenia Fragrance Oil
6 droppers full of Lily, Lilac or Stargazer Lily Fragrance Oil
4 oz white shea butter soap
20 oz clear shaving soap
Ultramarine Blue Oxide
Black Oxide
2 microwavable containers one large 20 oz and one smaller 8 oz
1 four cavity Crescent Moon Mold
1 PJScraper tool
1 PJInjector tool
1 Misting sprayer filled with rubbing alcohol
Paper Towels (white)
Plastic wrap
1 small sized foil ball (loosely crumpled sheet)

Or just buy the entire kit here.

Step One: Heat your water to a low simmer. Place the ball of foil under the right side of the crescent moon mold (so soap will slightly pool into the moon on the left). We used a paper plate since we didn’t have the foil close at hand.

Step Two: Cut your shea butter soap into Ice cube sized chunks and place in the small microwavable container, cover with plastic wrap and zap for 30 seconds, stir; if it’s not quite melted give it another 12 seconds or ‘til just melted (do not overheat).Add one dropper of gardenia and blend in. Spray the mold.

Step Three: Stick the tip of the dropper into the melted/scented white shea butter soap and draw the plunger back ‘til the injector is full.

Step Four: Mist one moon cavity with alcohol (3 sprays) and immediately inject the white soap from the right/higher side of the mold so soap fills in the stars and completely fills in the moon on the left.

Repeat 3 more times.

Step Five: If the soap in the injector cools off before you’ve finished you can always squirt it back in its container [immediately clear the injector by drawing up hot water and squirting it back into your pan] and zap for another 6-12 seconds or whatever time is needed to reheat – then re-mist and inject any empty cavity that is still in need of the first white layer.

Let the white soap totally harden 10 min or so.

Step Six: While the first layer is hardening , cut up your clear soap into ice cube sized bits, cover with plastic wrap and microwave in the larger microwavable container for 55 seconds. Stir, cover and zap for another 30 seconds or until the clear soap is completely melted making sure to stir each time you check to avoid creating hot spots (again, you do not want to overheat your soap).

When your clear soap is melted you are going to add 3 squirts of Ultramarine blue and stir in completely. Then add 1-3 drops of black oxide to your liking. The resulting color should be a deep navy blue soap. At this point stick your pinkie finger into the soap and if it’s not hot enough to burn your finger go ahead and add your Lily Fragrance Oil and stir in completely. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

Check back tomorrow for the rest of the instructions for making Starry Night, Crescent Moon Soaps.

Realistic Clamshell Soaps – Day One

September 2, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

What You’ll Need (4 Bars of Soap):

Pre-heat 4 quart pan of water on simmer (for rinsing your tools)

1 dropperful of Gardenia Fragrance Oil

1 dropperful of Sensuous Sandalwood

6 dropperful of Sea Moss Fragrance Oil

6 oz Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base

32 oz Shaving Melt and Pour Base

Brown Oxide

Green Oxide

Black Oxide

4 microwavable containers one large 20 oz and three smaller 8 oz

Clam Shell Mold

Clean Up Tool

Injector Soap Tool

Straight Metal Fork with Tines

Rubbing Alcohol

Plastic wrap

Heat your water to a low simmer. Cut your 6 oz of Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base Base into ice cube size pieces, place in one of the small containers, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut 6 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base, place in small container, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut another 6 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base place in small container, cover with plastic wrap and set aside. Cut about 16—20 oz of Shaving Melt and Pour Base into small pieces, place into the large container and cover with plastic wrap.

At this point you have:
1 small container of Shea Butter Melt and Pour Base Base
2 small containers of Shaving Melt and Pour Base
1 large container of Shaving Melt and Pour Base

For 30 seconds microwave one of the small containers of Shaving Melt and Pour Base (heat 10 additional seconds at a time if needed) and add a little of brown oxide (not sure how to use oxides in Melt and Pour Soap? Click here to be taken to a tutorial on using Oxides in MP soap) and one dropper of Sea Moss fragrance. The result should be a translucent amber liquid soap that does not burn your pinkie finger. In the photo above, we’re using pre-mixed brown oxide in liquid glycerin. You can make up your own color blend using the instructions referenced above (here).

Pour about a Tablespoon and a half of the light translucent soap into one of the cavities and turn the entire mold until you’ve covered the sides and bottom of the mold. The layer doesn’t need to be even or even look like anything special and don’t worry about spilling soap over the sides as you can always wait a minute or two and use the scraper tool to replace any spilled soap into the container it originated from. Do the same for each of the cavities. We call this the “Swirl ‘n’ Twirl” method. Keep rotating the mold around in a circular fashion until the bulk of the soap has hardened up fully on all sides. It’s okay if it’s a little thicker in places.

Now, for 30 seconds take the 2nd small container of clear soap cover it and melt in the microwave for 30 seconds or so and add 5 parts of brown oxide, one part black oxide and one part of green oxide (heat 10 additional seconds at a time if needed, stirring each time); when melted add one dropper of Sandalwood fragrance. The teacher for this method, PJ, likes to scent each layer separately. This is an optional thing. If you’d like one fragrance for all the layers, it won’t affect the integrity of the soap at all.

One at a time, spray with rubbing alcohol the first translucent layer in one of your shell molds and immediately add about a tablespoon and a half of the dark brown soap into the mold on top of the translucent soap, turning the mold until the sides and bottom are mostly covered (imperfections at this layer add to the look of the soap). Keep rotating the mold around in a circular fashion until the bulk of the soap has hardened up fully on all sides. It’s okay if it’s a little thicker in places. Use the scraper tool to replace any spilled soap into the container it originated from.

Check back for the rest of this week as we finish the Clam Shell Project, creating realistic shells out of just soap and a little skill.

Bleeding Colors? What’s That Halo!?

August 16, 2008 Filed Under: Melt & Pour Soap

After Debbie’s Guest Post on using Oxides in Melt and Pour soap, I received some emails requesting more information about bleeding colorants. Thank you for the feedback – please, keep it coming.

Melt and Pour soap is an extremely versatile art form. The options for making exceedingly clean, precise and gorgeous designs are literally endless … that is, if you have the right colors.

What is bleeding? Bleeding is when a color from an embedded object or layer leaches out into the surrounding soap base (see example photo above and below). It is often a sad surprise when a beautiful design turns into a mushy, unrecognizable color blob. It’s still soap but it’s not quite the look originally intended.

Why do colors bleed? Melt and Pour base is a water soluble product. FD&C (Food, Drug & Cosmetic) colorants (like food coloring or Labcolors) are usually also water soluble as well. When there is no barrier or medium to form a protective line, the water soluble color will start to migrate (or swim) through the water soluble melt and pour.

What is the right color? If you would like to make a soap that looks like the glamorous Silhouette Soap on the right, with clean, crisp lines, it is important that you use a “Non-Bleeding” color. The right color is a generally colorant that is oil based or one that colors through dispersion. This means that the color doesn’t mix into the soap so much as it suspends little micro-particles throughout the soap, giving the illusion of constant color.

The “right” colors for non bleeding colors are:

Oxides (without exception)
Most Micas (some oil based lip colors do bleed)
Pigments & Oxides in liquid

Click here for a list of all of the Bramble Berry colorants that do not bleed in Melt & Pour soap.

If you’ve been hesitatant to try using Oxides or Pigments in Melt & Pour soap, now is the time to do it. Debbie did an amazing tutorial about using Oxides and Pigments in Melt and Pour. Following her instructions will significantly cut down your learning curve and allow you to acheive clean, crisp designs without stress about your colorants.

I’ll be headed to the Pacific Northwest Soapers Gathering bright and early on Sunday morning. I won’t be doing a blog post tomorrow but I will be Twittering about the gathering and TwitPic’ing photographs all day. You can follow my Twitter feed here, look at the TwitPics on the right hand side of this blog or by going directly to my TwitPic feed here. I’ll (hopefully!) have a round up post about the gathering posted late tomorrow night or Monday morning.

Happy Soaping!

Fun with Vocation Vacationer

January 12, 2008 Filed Under: Bramble Berry News

What a fun day Linda and I had at Otion. We started the day by having breakfast and reviewing Linda’s reactions about her first day (conclusion: overwhelming but exciting) and made an action plan for the day. Since Linda has plenty of business experience, we chose to focus on making product and trying to narrow down Linda’s desire for a retail store versus a large scale wholesale operation.

After opening the store, we headed to the soap lab to check out Linda’s first batch of soap. I’d say that this turned out pretty good, wouldn’t you? I was thrilled that her first batch looked so smooth and colorful. Given that we did a full 8% beeswax, this should be a long lasting bar in the shower. The batch used green iron oxide, yellow clay and merlot mica.

While I ran out to a meeting, Erik and Linda made 15 pounds of rebatching soap and another loaf to go over swirling techniques. Linda was especially excited to see how to do larger scale production with a drill and 5 gallon bucket.
When I got back, Linda and I made bath fizzies galore. She was amazed at how easy and cost effective bath fizzies are. If you’ve never made bath fizzies, TeachSoap.com has instructions and of course, Bramble Berry has the supplies (including an all-inclusive kit for $21.50).
Linda did a great job with her bath fizzies, learning how to press the materials deeply into the mold to ensure a dense, long lasting tub experience.

Linda’s final bath fizzies turned out great. We went over using extra oils in the bombs, humidity’s role in rock hard fizzies and the use of extra herbs and color in bath fizzies. She has enough take-home goodies to test that she’ll be bathing for a while!

Our next experiment didn’t do so well. We made lip balms and while the lip balms were fabulous, our microwave didn’t live through the afternoon. Check back later this weekend for photos and a description of the debacle (hint: it involves exploding hot glass and oil).

After a wonderful dinner, we sent Linda on her way back home to Michigan. I’m very excited to keep in touch with her to see if she does a retail shop or decides to go the wholesale route. Whatever she does, I know she will be successful.

Swirling Day 3 photos

September 10, 2007 Filed Under: Cold Process Soap

Watch the video for a better example of the spatula swirling method. The movement is a swirling up, down, and around in an “S” shape.

Putting the Sunnybrook soap mold dividers into the mold is easy if you squeeze the outside two plastic pieces to hold the entire puzzle of inserts together.

Gently tapping on the counter to encourage air bubbles to rise to the surface is a good way to make sure you don’t get white bubbles in your finished bars. Remember to keep your eye protection on for this step.

Click here for Day One – Preparing the Color
Click here for Day Two – Pouring the First Layer
Click here for Day Two – Video
Click here for Day Three -Video
Click here for Day Three – Swirling