There’s a reason swirl designs are so popular. Not only are they fun to do, but your soap turns out differently each time. The Swirl Soap Kit includes everything you need to give the technique a try. We first shared the tutorial in 2009 – you can watch the Soap Queen TV video here. Eight years later, it was time for a refresh.

The updated Swirl Soap Kit has a similar design and feel, but it now comes with printed instructions to make it easier than ever to use. There are also new items like the 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold, which is durable and flexible.

If your loved one wants to get creative or if they want to try a new project, these kits are the perfect way to start. You can also put them on your wishlist so people know exactly what to get you. Everyone deserves to get creative – make time for it this holiday season.

Swirl Soap Kit Includes:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
2 lbs. Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
1 lb. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
1 oz. Yuzu Cybilla Fragrance Oil
Super Pearly White Mica
Liquid Blue Colorant
Liquid Pink Colorant
Liquid Violet Colorant
1 Dropper
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray Bottle

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Swirl Melt & Pour Soap Kit

This Swirl Soap Kit creates bars that look different every time.

Servings 8 -10 bars

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 " Silicone Loaf Mold
• 2 lbs. Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 1 lb. White Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 24 mL Yuzu Cybilla Fragrance Oil
• 1 Dropper
• Super Pearly White Mica
• Liquid Pink Colorant
• Liquid Blue Colorant
• Liquid Violet Colorant
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in Spray Bottle

Instructions

• Chop all the Clear Melt & Pour Soap Base into small cubes. The smaller the pieces of soap, the easier they will melt. Place the soap into a heat-safe container and melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. After each burst, stir the soap. Be careful not to overheat and burn the soap.
• Once melted, use the dropper to add 15 mL of the fragrance oil into the soap and mix in with a spoon. Pour a small amount of the clear soap into the mold (just enough to cover the bottom).
• Sprinkle a pinch of the white mica onto the soap and spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles. Allow to harden and cool for about 10 minutes.
• Once the first layer has hardened, remelt the clear soap base in the microwave using 30 second bursts, stirring between each burst.
• Split the remaining clear soap equally into three separate containers. Add a few drops of the pink colorant into one container until you have reached your desired color and stir to mix in. Add drops of the blue and violet colorants into other containers and stir to mix in.
• Chop all of the White Melt & Pour Soap Base and place in a separate heat-safe container. Melt in the microwave using 30 second bursts. Add 9 mL fragrance oil to the soap, and stir to mix in.
• Spritz the soap in the mold with alcohol. Pour half of the melted white soap on top of the previous layer. Pour about ½ of the pink, violet, and blue soap into the white. The soap will naturally swirl itself as you pour. Experiment with pouring into different areas of the mold. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of any bubbles after pouring. Allow to cool and harden for about 5 minutes.
• If the remaining white, violet, blue, and pink soap has cooled and hardened, reheat each color in the microwave using 10 second bursts until it's fluid.
• Spritz the soap in the mold with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Pour the remaining white, violet, pink, and blue soap into the mold. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for at least 3-4 hours. Remove from the mold, cut into bars. Enjoy!

The post Swirl Melt & Pour Soap Kit appeared first on Soap Queen.

Here in Bellingham, WA, almost every restaurant has a specialty cocktail. Many of the drinks feature house-infused liquor and funky combinations like thyme and peach puree. The interesting combination of flavors, colors, and textures in artisan cocktails inspired this melt and pour project.

Swirling melt and pour isn’t difficult, but it does require an understanding of how the soap behaves at different temperatures. If you’ve never swirled melt and pour soap before, see our tips here. A thermometer comes in handy for this project to check temperatures. A spray bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol is also a must. Without spraying alcohol before each layer, they may not stick together.

Note: The Sparkling Fig Cocktail Fragrance Oil previously used in this tutorial was discontinued. It has been replaced with Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil.

What You’ll Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
32 oz. Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base
22 oz. Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base
0.7 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
Evergreen Mica
Gold Sparkle Mica
Merlot Sparkle Mica
99% Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray Bottle
Optional: Infrared Thermometer

Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

COLOR PREP: In small separate containers, combine 1/2 teaspoon of Merlot Sparkle Mica, Evergreen Mica, and Gold Sparkle Mica with about 1 teaspoon of 99% isopropyl alcohol. Mixing the mica with alcohol helps it mix into the soap easily without clumps. Set colors aside.

ONE: Chop 32 ounces of Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base into small uniform pieces. Place 16 ounces of the chopped Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base into one heat-safe container, and the remaining 16 ounces into another heat-safe container. Then, chop 22 oz. of Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into small uniform pieces. Place all of the Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into one large heat-safe container.

TWO: Place the container of Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into the microwave and melt using 30-60 second bursts. Between each burst, stir the soap to help it melt evenly and prevent overheating. Continue heating and stirring until the base is completely melted.

THREE: Melt both containers of Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base in the microwave using about 30-40 second bursts. Mix between each burst to help it melt evenly and prevent overheating. Continue heating and stirring until the base is completely melted.

FOUR: Add all of the dispersed Evergreen Mica to the melted goat milk soap and stir to combine. Then, add all of the dispersed Gold Sparkle Mica to one container of melted honey soap, and all of the dispersed Merlot Sparkle Mica to the other container of melted honey soap. Stir to combine.

FIVE: Add 0.3 ounces of the Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil to the green soap and stir until completely combined. Then add 0.2 ounces of the Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil to the gold and burgundy soap. Stir completely to combine the colorants.

SIX: Check the temperature of each container of soap. The ideal temperature for swirling melt and pour is around 125 ° F. If the soap is too hot the colors will muddle together, but if it’s too cold they won’t swirl. If some of the soap has cooled too much, place it in the microwave and reheat using short 5-10 second bursts.

SEVEN: Once each container is in the correct temperature range, pour some of the green soap into the mold to completely cover the bottom. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles and pour a small amount of the green and burgundy soap into the green. Pour at varying heights and in varying areas to help the soap swirl.

Allow the soap to cool and harden slightly for about 2-3 minutes. In this time it will develop a thin skin but may not be completely firm. Allowing the soap to cool slightly prevents the colors from muddling together.

EIGHT: Spritz the soap in the mold with alcohol to help the layers stick together. Pour a thin layer of the green soap, spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, then pour burgundy and gold soap soap in random areas to create a swirl effect. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, and allow to cool and harden for about 2-3 minutes.

NINE: Continue this process until all the soap has been poured into the mold. Immediately after pouring the last bit of soap into the mold, spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, then use your fingers to sprinkle Gold Sparkle Mica onto the soap. Spritz again with alcohol.

TEN: Allow it to fully cool and harden for about 4 hours or up to overnight. It’s tempting to cut into the soap while it’s still warm, but don’t do it! Layers are more likely to separate when the soap is cut while still warm. Once the loaf is cut into bars, wrap the bars in plastic wrap to help avoid glycerin dew. Enjoy!

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Sparkling Fig Melt & Pour Soap Tutorial

This swirled melt and pour project is perfect for fall and the holiday season.

Course Melt and Pour

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Soap Queen

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 32 oz. Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 22 oz. Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base
• 0.7 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
• Evergreen Mica
• Gold Sparkle Mica
• Merlot Sparkle Mica
• 99 % Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray Bottle
• Optional: Infrared Thermometer

Instructions

COLOR PREP: In small separate containers, combine 1/2 teaspoon of Merlot Sparkle Mica, Evergreen Mica, and Gold Sparkle Mica with about 1 teaspoon of 99% isopropyl alcohol. Mixing the mica with alcohol helps it mix into the soap easily without clumps. Set colors aside.

• Chop 32 ounces of Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base into small uniform pieces. Place 16 ounces of the chopped Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base into one heat-safe container, and the remaining 16 ounces into another heat-safe container. Then, chop 22 oz. of Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into small uniform pieces. Place all of the Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into one large heat-safe container.
• Place the container of Goat Milk Melt and Pour Soap Base into the microwave and melt using 30-60 second bursts. Between each burst, stir the soap to help it melt evenly and prevent overheating. Continue heating and stirring until the base is completely melted.
• Melt both containers of Honey Melt and Pour Soap Base in the microwave using about 30-40 second bursts. Mix between each burst to help it melt evenly and prevent overheating. Continue heating and stirring until the base is completely melted.
• Add all of the dispersed Evergreen Mica to the melted goat milk soap and stir to combine. Then, add all of the dispersed Gold Sparkle Mica to one container of melted honey soap, and all of the dispersed Merlot Sparkle Mica to the other container of melted honey soap. Stir to combine.
• Add 0.3 ounces of the Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil to the green soap and stir until completely combined. Then add 0.2 ounces of the Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil to the gold and burgundy soap. Stir completely to combine the colorants.
• Check the temperature of each container of soap. The ideal temperature for swirling melt and pour is around 125 ° F. If the soap is too hot the colors will muddle together, but if it’s too cold they won’t swirl. If some of the soap has cooled too much, place it in the microwave and reheat using short 5-10 second bursts.
• Once each container is in the correct temperature range, pour some of the green soap into the mold to completely cover the bottom. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles and pour a small amount of the green and burgundy soap into the green. Pour at varying heights and in varying areas to help the soap swirl. Allow the soap to cool and harden slightly for about 2-3 minutes. In this time it will develop a thin skin but may not be completely firm. Allowing the soap to cool slightly prevents the colors from muddling together.
• Spritz the soap in the mold with alcohol to help the layers stick together. Pour a thin layer of the green soap, spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, then pour burgundy and gold soap soap in random areas to create a swirl effect. Spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, and allow to cool and harden for about 2-3 minutes.
• Continue this process until all the soap has been poured into the mold. Immediately after pouring the last bit of soap into the mold, spritz with alcohol to get rid of bubbles, then use your fingers to sprinkle Gold Sparkle Mica onto the soap. Spritz again with alcohol.
• Allow it to fully cool and harden for about 4 hours or up to overnight. It’s tempting to cut into the soap while it’s still warm, but don’t do it! Layers are more likely to separate when the soap is cut while still warm. Once the loaf is cut into bars, wrap the bars in plastic wrap to help avoid glycerin dew. Enjoy!

The post Sparkling Fig Melt & Pour Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Squeeze bottles are a vital part of many soapy designs because the narrow tip allows you to lay down precise lines. These lines are the foundation for many intricate swirls, such as the Peacock Swirl, Frog Foot Swirl and Butterfly Swirl. As with our silicone tools and molds, we recommend hand washing these bottles for best results. They can be difficult to clean, so we recommend filling them with warm water and letting them sit immediately after use. Then, screw the top on and shake vigorously to loosen up the soap inside. Use a scrubby bottle brush to get rid of any stubborn soapy remains.

We recommend using these bottles for cold process soaping only. Melt and pour soap hardens much more quickly, and you could get stuck with a gloopy mess trapped inside your bottle.

We used squeeze bottles to lay down the first part of our Frog Foot Swirl.

The uses for the Squeeze Bottle don’t stop at making excellent, precise lines. You can also take advantage of their nimbleness and precision to “draw” designs directly onto your soap! For the Holly Berry Cold Process design below, we used the bottles to hand draw holly leaves on the surface of the soap for a truly festive touch.

Using the Squeeze Bottles to draw designs on the Holly Berry Cold Process soap.

One of our favorite techniques is the Squirty Swirls design, and it’s easily achieved with the Squeeze Bottles. This technique is surprisingly simple, and results in a beautiful design every time. You can learn more about the Squirty Swirls recipe in the Soap Crafting Book, or you can also check out this fun Rainbow Squirty Swirls recipe that we posted earlier this week. Simply fill your bottles with colored soap and squirt layer upon layer into the mold to achieve this super cool design!

Using the bottles to create the Squirty Swirls design.

Below is just a snapshot of a few more designs that have been created in part using the Squeeze Bottles. The design options are unlimited.

Top: Butterfly Swirl, Hawaiian Shirt

Bottom: Peacock Swirl, Mantra Swirl

Have you used Squeeze Bottles in your soapy designs? What is your favorite pattern to make?

The post Sunday Night Spotlight: Squeeze Bottles appeared first on Soap Queen.

Guest post by Kat from Otion (Bramble Berry’s retail store)

Hello again! This is part three of four in my Advanced Cold Process Swirling tutorial. If you missed the first half of the series, be sure to check out part 1 (Understanding Color Theory and Terminology) and 2 (Getting Brave with Color) to learn about color theory terms and how to build confidence with color. This is the final segment on color usage before we get into actual swirling techniques.

Let your personality show through your soap! Your product is a reflection of your style and aesthetic. Choose colors and patterns based on what best radiates as “you.” Simple and elegant designs use few colors with wider spacing between the lines (by leaving more negative space, it leaves an area for your eye to rest, thus creating a calming effect). Bright and fun designs use multiple colors and the pattern is manipulated further for a more active and energetic look. You can also color match based on your chosen fragrance. If the scent is lavender, for example, it makes more sense to use purples and blues than it would reds. Theme the color based on the flower or plant’s physical properties.

Keep in mind, the more you swirl the soap by hand, the more the colors blend together. If you manipulate the swirl pattern too much, you could easily end up with one muddy color. The test of a true soap artist is knowing when to stop. Here’s how I know when to stop: You’ll come to a point in the swirling process where magic starts to happen. The pattern begins to form and the excitement builds. Then you start to get the giggles and let out a big “WOW”! Stop swirling at the first wow. I know you want to keep going to see if it gets cooler, but that’s when you can begin to over-swirl and loose what made it a wow in the first place. Stop while you’re ahead.

Developing your signature swirl takes a lot of practice and experimenting with color combinations and pattern techniques. The more you try it, the better you’ll get, and the more you know what you like. Try not to get discouraged right away and make small batches until you get the hang of it.

Strategy vs. Spontaneity: Linear swirling is much more about strategy and in-the-pot swirling is about spontaneity. You can go somewhere in between the two techniques by alternating pours of color into a loaf mold in a layering fashion. The result is a conglomerate of color shapes and the pattern differs with each cut bar. Cutting into a loaf soap is SO exciting; like cracking open a geode.

Creating specific patterns will be covered step-by-step in the next and final portion of the tutorial series. Stay tuned!

The post Soap Design and Color-Matching appeared first on Soap Queen.

Recipe:

24.5 ounces Coconut Oil

39.2 ounces Olive Oil

24.5 ounces Palm Oil

9.8 ounces Palm Kernel Flakes

14.3 ounces Lye

27.4 ounces Distilled Water

2.2 ounces Sodium Lactate

6.7 ounces Energy Fragrance Oil

4 teaspoons Blue Mix LabColor

4 teaspoons Canary LabColor

Cube Silicone Mold

Buy everything you need for this project in the click of a button!

If you have never made cold process soap before, I strongly suggest getting a couple of  basic recipes under your belt before diving in. Check out Soap Queen TV on Cold Process if you want to get started with cold process. It’s a 4 part series that will take you through the basics (and be sure to watch the episode on Lye Safety). If you’re a book worm, Bramble Berry also has some helpful reading on the cold process technique.

ONE: Suit up! Make sure you’re wearing long sleeves and put on your goggles and gloves. Carefully add the lye to the water (never the other way around!) and mix until the water is clear. Set aside to cool.

TWO: Melt and mix the Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Olive Oil, and Palm Kernel Flakes. Add Sodium Lactate to cooled Lye water. Slowly add the lye water to the oils, stick blending for about 10-15 seconds or until you reach a light trace.

THREE: Add your fragrance oil and stick blend for a few seconds. Keep a whisk close at hand. We won’t be stick blending after this.

FOUR: Split your batch in half. Color one half with Blue Mix LabColor, and the other half with Canary LabColor.

TIP: When working with LabColors, it’s all about the WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get). The amount of colorant in the recipe is a good starting point, but you may find that you want to add more that’s totally fine! If you’ve never worked with LabColors before check out the blog post we did and learn how to properly use them to their full potential.

FIVE: Pour the Blue Mix colored batch into the mold. It should fill about half the cubes. For a fun visual appeal, I did a checkerboard pattern with the Blue Mix batch! As I filled each cavity, I made sure to leave about ¼ of an inch at the top to ease unmolding.

SIX: Fill in the remaining cavities with the Canary LabColor batch, leaving ¼ of an inch of room at the top.

SEVEN: Allow the soap to sit in the mold for at least 7 days. Yes, 7 days! We found that because of the self-insulating tendencies of the mold, the soap just isn’t ready to come out until it’s been sitting for a full 7 days.

EIGHT: Unmold your soap and allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. When it’s time to unmold, pull gently away from the sides of the mold and carefully ease each cavity down. It is a slow process but the results are worth it!

EXTRA BONUS PROJECT

Since I had a little bit of yellow and blue soap batter left I did an “In The Pot Swirl”. Pour your blue soap into the yellow soap and stir it one time. You’ll want to swirl it more but trust me…just do it once. Then pour the soap batter into an extra mold. Want to learn more about In the Pot Swirling? Check out THIS video from Bramble Berry.

I can’t wait to get feedback on this mold. Let me know what you think!

The post Crazy for Cubes appeared first on Soap Queen.

Cold Process Advice: If you have never made cold process soap before, I strongly suggest getting a couple of basic recipes under your belt before diving in, as this is an advanced technique that requires you to be organized and move quickly. Check out Soap Queen TV on Cold Process if you want to get started with CP. It’s a 4 part series that will take you through the basics (and be sure to watch the episode on Lye Safety). Bramble Berry also has some helpful reading tools for you bookworms out there. Are you ready to take on this advanced recipe? Then let’s jump in!

Ingredients

3.1 oz. Castor Oil

17.9 oz. Coconut Oil

21.2 oz. Olive Oil

10.6 oz. Palm Oil

16 oz Clear Melt and Pour

7.7 oz. Lye

17.4 oz. Distilled Water

Activated Charcoal

Super Pearly White Mica

Fired Up Fuchsia

.5 oz. Moroccan Mint Fragrance Oil, 1 oz. Spearmint Essential Oil, 3 oz. Energy Fragrance Oil (blend oils together)

5 pound Wooden Mold

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Mold Prep: Line your 5 pound Wood Log Mold with freezer paper (shiny side up).

Suit Up: Put on your gloves, goggles and long sleeve shirt!

ONE: Carefully combine your water and lye and mix well. Always remember to add the lye to the water and not the other way around. Stir until mixture becomes clear and make sure you are in a well ventilated area. Set the lye water aside to cool.

TWO: Melt 16 ounces of clear melt and pour soap in the microwave on 30 second bursts until fully melted. Then mix in your Bubble Gum colorant and fragrance oil. We dispersed Bubble Gum colorant in glycerin first (1 Teaspoon of colorant to 1/3 cup of glycerin). Add 2 Teaspoons of the colorant mixture and 1/2 oz of your fragrance oil blend. Give it a good mix and let it cool down to 135-140 degrees.

TIP: You may want to cover the melt and pour soap with plastic wrap so it stays warm and doesn’t form a skin on top. This totally depends on the temperature of the soap when it comes out of the microwave- you can make a game time decision.

THREE: Melt and combine the Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Olive Oil and Castor Oil. Give the oils a quick pulse with the stick blender to mix.

FOUR: Slowly add the lye water to your oil mixture. Blend with a stick blender until you reach a light trace.

FIVE: Separate the batch into two equal parts. If you know me you’ll know that I eyeballed the measurement. Feel free to measure exactly if inclined.

SIX: Add 1/2 Tablespoon of the Super Pearly White Mica to the first half of the soap batter. Mix with your stick blender until full incorporated.

SEVEN: Add a heaping 1/4 Teaspoon of Activated Charcoal to the other half  of the soap batter. Mix with a stick blender until the charcoal is fully incorporated. Because I mixed the light colorant first you won’t need to wash your stick blender. This is such a handy trick that I use all the time. Get me out of doing dishes and I’m in!

EIGHT: And now for something completely different (excuse my Monty Python quote). It’s time to swirl our melt and pour soap in with the cold process using a basic linear swirl technique. Pour your black soap in to the mold in a zig zag motion (up the mold, down the mold and up again). Followed by the pink melt and pour (you can barely see it in the first picture, a lot of it went to the bottom). Next up is the white soap in the same zig zag pattern. Repeat this pattern until you have about about an inch left in the top of the mold. Work as fast as you can!

Note: You’ll have a little bit of CP soap left over so have an extra mold ready. I made a little extra to give myself some leeway for the project. It never hurts to have extra but you never want to run out.

NINE: Use a spatula to swirl the soap back and forth in the mold. The texture is very bizarre because the melt and pour soap is cooling faster than the cold process soap. So it is important to work as quickly as you can so you can still swirl the batch.

TEN: Once you’ve swirled the entire soap loaf it’s time to make the top look beautiful. Pour the black soap in the opposite direction that you did earlier (so you’re going to go back and forth 13 or 14 times the width of the mold. Repeat with the white soap on top of the black soap. Run your skewer through the top of the soap the long way to create a swirled look on the top.

TIP: Put the soap in the fridge right away so it doesn’t go through gel phase. You don’t want the hot soap batter to melt the melt and pour and ruin our beautiful swirls.

ELEVEN: Unmold after 24 hours, cut the soap and get it on the curing rack to get some oxygen flowing.

The post CP + MP = Magma Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

The very next day Amanda Griffin, author of the great CP eZine “Lovin’ Soap”, posted a FULL TUTORIAL showing how to do it with cold process soap (including her recipe), and coined the term “Column Swirl.”  She will be posting it for The Soap Queen very soon, but here’s a sneak peek.  I love all of her beautiful colors!

The next week, Erin Pikor of Naiad Soap Arts posted her soapy experiment using this method, using all natural colorants.  More gorgeous results! (Click here for her post).

Then Holly Port of Lotion Bar Café (click here for her post),  and finally David Fisher, writer for About.com wrote about this new technique here.

Not only is it super cool how exciting it is to get inspired, but also how great the soap community is!  Everyone wanted to share their discoveries and projects with each other, and keep spreading the word about this new method.  Now if someone can just figure out how to do a column swirl with MP! 
 

The post The Column Swirl Phenomenon appeared first on Soap Queen.

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The post Candy Swirl Pinwheel Soap – Final Reveal appeared first on Soap Queen.

Click here for Part One.
Click here for Part Two.

Step 7: Fill another coffee cup or heat safe Pyrex with soap.Melt the soap and add color (to preference) and fragrance.

Step 8:Let melted soap cool so that it is no longer steaming and won’t burn your finger (if you were to dip your finger in the glass). The goal is to have the soap cool enough to not melt the white pinwheel swirls.Spray the four pieces of white soap in the round mold with rubbing alcohol and pour the remaining colored soap into the mold, over the pinwheel soap cut outs.The rubbing alcohol ensures that the pieces will adhere nicely to your overpour.

Step 9: Place mold back into the freezer for roughly 25 minutes if you’re impatient and willing to get condensation on your soaps. If you want to ensure that you don’t get glycerin dew on your soaps, resist the urge to hurry the process and wait 3 hours before gently popping your soaps out.

Step 10: Enjoy!

While these aren’t Pinwheel soaps, I think this type of wrapping would be phenomenal for the Pinwheel Soap Project.

The post Candy Swirl Soap – Part Three appeared first on Soap Queen.