• September 28, 2012

I’ve just added a new board to my Pinterest page: Color Inspiration! How did I go so long without this board? And have you seen the array of color palettes that are out there? Whoa. Inspiration overload. One of my favorite go-to sites for all things color is Design Seeds, and recently there was a color story posted that reminded me of a comfy and cozy fall sweater. Of course, my next train of thought was to turn it into soap, and what better way to use Bramble Berry’s newest fragrance, Cranberry Chutney?

Recipe:

12.0 oz Canola Oil

1.2 oz Castor Oil

8.0 oz Coconut Oil

6.8 oz Olive Oil

8.0 oz Palm Oil

4.0 oz Rice Bran Oil

5.46 oz Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)

13.2 oz Distilled Water

1 teaspoon Electric Bubblegum Colorant

1 teaspoon Brown Oxide

1 teaspoon Brick Red Oxide

1/2 teaspoon Bronze Mica

3 tablespoons Sweet Almond Oil (or any liquid oil)

3 oz Cranberry Chutney Fragrance Oil

4 pound Wood Mold with Wingnuts

 

Buy everything you need for this project with the click of a button!

If you have never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you get a couple of basic recipes under your belt. Check out this (free!) 4-part series on cold process soap making, especially the episode on lye safety. Bramble Berry carries quite a few books on the topic as well, including this downloadable book on making cold process soap.

SAFETY FIRST: Goggles, gloves, and long sleeves should be on at all times while prepping for and making soap. Ensure that kids, pets, and other distractions/tripping hazards don’t have access to your soap making space, and be sure that whatever space you are making soap in is well-ventilated.

COLOR PREP: Disperse the Electric Bubblegum Colorant, Brick Red Oxide, and Brown Oxide in Sweet Almond Oil at a rate of 1 teaspoon colorant to 1 tablespoon oil. Use a mini-mixer to make quick work of the mixing and to eliminate any clumps, but be sure to saturate the powders in the oil before you turn on the mini-mixer or you’ll get a messy poof of pigment!

MOLD PREP: Line the wood mold with freezer paper, shiny side up.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water, taking care to not breath in any fumes. Stir until clear and set aside to cool.

TWO: Melt and combine Palm and Coconut Oils. Add Canola, Castor, Olive and Rice Bran Oil and stir until well mixed.

THREE: When both the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees or below, carefully add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until a light trace is achieved. Split the soap batter into 5 equal parts (about 1 1/3 cups each). Keep an eye on the emulsion and stir with a whisk if it appears to be getting grainy.

FOUR: Add 1 teaspoon dispersed Brick Red Oxide to one batch, 1 teaspoon dispersed Electric Bubblegum colorant to the second, 1/2 teaspoon dispersed Brown Oxide to the third and 1/2 teaspoon Bronze Mica to the fourth. Leave the fifth batch uncolored. Mix in all of the colorants using a whisk so not to accelerate trace.

FIVE: Add .6 ounces of Cranberry Chutney Fragrance Oil to the soap batch colored with Brick Red Oxide. Mix in using a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved, then pour the first layer into the mold. Tamp the mold on the table to evenly distribute the soap and eliminate any air bubbles.

SIX: Add .6 ounces of Cranberry Chutney Fragrance Oil to the soap batch colored with Electric Bubblegum colorant. Mix in using a stick blender until a thick trace is achieved  then pour into the mold over a spatula so not to break through the first layer. Tamp the mold on the table to evenly distribute the soap and eliminate any air bubbles. Repeat this step with the uncolored batch going in next, then the Bronze Mica colored batch, and finally the Brown Oxide colored batch. Don’t forget to fragrance each batch as you go!

SEVEN: For added interest, take advantage of the thick trace of the soap try a single-color swirl design in the soap! Drag a spatula or chopstick through just the top 1/4″ or so of soap to manipulate it and add texture. Then spray the top with 91% percent alcohol to prevent soda ash, insulate, and allow to sit for 1-2 days. Unmold, cut, and allow to cure for 4-6 weeks. Enjoy!

Psst: For you tactile learners, this soap will be in the Etsy shop next week. We need just a skosh more curing time.

UPDATE: Soaps are now available in the Etsy shop! Check out the listing here to score your very own bar and printed instructions.

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