The sophistication of orchids and jasmine flowers inspired this cold process soap. It’s scented with new Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil, which has notes of tuberose, balsam, and musk. The scent blend is alluring and complex. To complement the scent, the soap is colored a regal purple and topped with elegant jasmine flowers.
The Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil and jasmine flowers are part of our new Modern Floral Collection, which includes four new scents, extracts, dried botanicals, and more. Click here to see all the new products.
The design in these bars is referred to as an In-The-Pot Swirl. Once the soap is split into separate containers and color is added, it’s poured back into one pot and swirled together before being poured into the mold. It’s a technique that’s great for beginners and results in a completely different swirl each time. Just be careful to not over swirl the soap or the colors can muddle.
What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1.5 oz. Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil
Titanium Dioxide
Queen’s Purple Mica
Activated Charcoal
Jasmine Flowers
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If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking. You can also check out the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.5 ounces of Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.
COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1 teaspoon of Queen’s Purple Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Finally, mix 1/2 teaspoon of activated charcoal with 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil.
Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add 4.7 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
THREE: Once you’ve reached a very thin trace, split off about 400 mL of the soap into a separate container.
FOUR: To the larger container of soap, add all of the dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica. To achieve a slightly deeper color, add about 1/16 teaspoon of activated charcoal. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the colorants.
FIVE: To the other container of soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Mix in the colorant completely with a whisk.
SIX: Add the Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.
SEVEN: A medium trace is perfect for an In-The-Pot Swirl design. If your soap is still thin, give each container a few quick pulses with the stick blender. Just be careful to not over stick blend the soap.
EIGHT: Once you’ve achieved a medium trace, pour the white soap into the purple soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.
NINE: Once all the white soap is in the purple soap, use a spatula or large spoon to swirl the two colors together. Only swirl the soap batter about 2-3 times so the colors don’t muddle.
TEN: Pour all of the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
ELEVEN: Use a spoon to create peaks in the soap. If the soap is still too thin and is not holding its shape, wait about 2-3 minutes and try again.
TWELVE: Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle jasmine flowers on top of the soap. Gently press them into the soap to help them stick. We recommend adding extra flowers because some will fall off when the bars are cut.
THIRTEEN: Once you’re happy with the top, spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. We lightly insulated this batch by placing it in a drawer in a room temperature (about 70° F) area. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for about 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
Swirled Orchid Cold Process Soap Tutorial
Ingredients
- 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
- 33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
- 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
- 1.5 oz. Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil
- Titanium Dioxide
- Queen’s Purple Mica
- Activated Charcoal
- Jasmine Flowers
Instructions
FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1.5 ounces of Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.
COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of the titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of sunflower or sweet almond oil (or any other liquid oil). Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. In a separate container, mix 1 teaspoon of Queen’s Purple Mica into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of any clumps. Finally, mix 1/2 teaspoon of activated charcoal with 1/2 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.
Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap batter, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.
- Slowly and carefully add 4.7 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
- Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into your soaping bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
- Once you’ve reached a very thin trace, split off about 400 mL of the soap into a separate container.
- To the larger container of soap, add all of the dispersed Queen’s Purple Mica. To achieve a slightly deeper color, add about 1/16 teaspoon of activated charcoal. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the colorants.
- To the other container of soap, add all of the dispersed titanium dioxide. Mix in the colorant completely with a whisk.
- Add the Blushing Orchid Fragrance Oil proportionally to each container of soap – it’s okay to eyeball it. Use a whisk to thoroughly mix in the fragrance.
- A medium trace is perfect for an In-The-Pot Swirl design. If your soap is still thin, give each container a few quick pulses with the stick blender. Just be careful to not over stick blend the soap.
- Once you’ve achieved a medium trace, pour the white soap into the purple soap in various places in the bowl. Pour from a high point so the soap penetrates the entire depth of the pot, which will create a swirl throughout the soap.
- Once all the white soap is in the purple soap, use a spatula or large spoon to swirl the two colors together. Only swirl the soap batter about 2-3 times so the colors don’t muddle.
- Pour all of the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help get rid of bubbles.
- Use a spoon to create peaks in the soap. If the soap is still too thin and is not holding its shape, wait about 2-3 minutes and try again.
- Once you’re happy with the shape, sprinkle jasmine flowers on top of the soap. Gently press them into the soap to help them stick. We recommend adding extra flowers because some will fall off when the bars are cut.
- Once you’re happy with the top, spritz the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to help prevent soda ash. We lightly insulated this batch by placing it in a drawer in a room temperature (about 70° F) area. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for about 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.
