This project is an Advanced DIY, so if you’ve never made soap before, get a solid ten (or twenty) batches under your soapmaking belt before attempting this one. It requires a solid understanding of trace and the ability to work quickly – but if you’re looking for your next soapmaking challenge, this is it.

Let’s get started!

First, suit up for safety (and if you don’t know what this means, this video is for you … enjoy the OG Soap Queen, including the haircut).

I used the Bramble Berry Swirl Quick Mix (Not sure what the Quick Mix is? Explainer post + video here but in a nutshell, Quick Mixes are a product I developed to help short-cut the soapmaking process for soapers – they’re designed so you don’t need to measure anything but one Mix that we’ve carefully measured and calculated in our Bellingham, WA production warehouse.) If you want to go rogue and use your favorite xix of oils, know that you need a solid 10 minutes for this technique (it’s a lot of tiny little pours).

Recipe:

54 ounces Bramble Berry Swirl Quick Mix

7.61 ounces Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)

17 ounces Distilled Water

Optional but recommended: 3 teaspoons Sodium Lactate

Colorants; Pick 4-6 colorants that say “wood grain” to you; mix and match it up. I used oranges, yellows, and browns and mixed and matched them. Make sure to have titanium dioxide also mixed up for a contrast color.

Fragrance: I used Sensuous Sandalwood because it doesn’t affect trace or color, and, smells woody.

Pre:

Pre Mix your colorants – 1 teaspoon of colorant into 1 Tablespoon of lightweight oil like Avocado or Sweet Almond Oil.

Lay out your containers for the individually-colored soaps that make up the wood grain. In this case, I used six different Bramble Berry Easy Pour containers to ensure I had enough.

Prop the soap mold on its side at roughly a 45-60-degree angle. I used the Bramble Berry Sliding Bottom Mold with the silicone liner. I used two hand towels to prop up so I could take one away at a time during the pouring process.

Instructions:

1) Measure your water (17 oz) and lye (7.61 oz) in two separate, chemical-resistant containers.

2) Carefully and slowly add the lye to the water (never the other way around). Ensure you are in a well-ventilated area with no kids or pets. Stir with your non-aluminum stirring utensil until the lye is dissolved. Set aside.

3) Heat your oils (or, in this case, your Quick Mix) to approximately 120 to 130 degrees.

4) Check your lye water for temperatures; if it’s around 120-130, it’s ready to add to your oils. Add the lye water slowly to your warm oils, slowly mixing in with a stick blender until you reach the very lightest trace (Not sure what ‘trace’ is or what the ‘very lightest’ of trace is? Some tips here or a full video of it here).

5) Separate the batter into 5 or 6 containers (or 7 or 8—however many colors you decided for your design) at the thinnest trace. Reserve the largest for your titanium dioxide-colored soap. It will provide the perfect contrast color for the wood grain colors.

6)  Hand whisk in the colorants and fragrances until you reach the desired tone and hue. If any colors are not fully mixed in, stick blend in a short burst to incorporate the full color smoothly. Add the fragrances to the individual containers.

7) Arrange each layer, color by color, in the order you plan to create your woodgrain design. Carefully pour the first layer down the side of the mold, followed by each successive color in the design. Alternate each color with a thin layer of white to ensure that the woodgrain design shows up. Keep pouring down the side of the mold; it’s awkward but that’s how the ‘wood grain’ design forms.

8) Keep alternating colors until the mold needs to be rotated down to 30 or 15 degrees. Continue pouring alternating colors until the mold is filled to the side again, and then put the mold on a flat surface. Pour the rest of the colors until the remaining soap is gone.

9) Spray the top of the mold with 99% rubbing alcohol to help prevent soda ash.

10) Insulate your soap or put on a heat blanket to ensure the soap goes through the full gel phase (not sure what gel phase is? Full explanation here)

11) Let soap harden and dry until it is ready to cut. Cut into bars. Once cut, put in a fully ventilated area for 4-6 weeks until soap is fully cured, dried, and ready to use.

If you make this soap, I’d love to see it. Post your version of this and hashtag it #brambleon. I can’t wait to see what you create!

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The post Woodgrain Soap Tutorial appeared first on Soap Queen.

Craft a Heartfelt Gesture with Our DIY Love Letter Soap

In the spirit of creativity and heartfelt gestures, embark on a DIY journey that combines the art of soap making with the timeless appeal of love letters. Our Love Letter Soap project is more than just a crafting endeavor; it’s an opportunity to pour your affection into a tangible form. This detailed guide will walk you through creating your batch of love-infused soap, featuring a captivating heart embed and layers of meaning in every bar.

Materials You’ll Need:
Heart Embed
Mini Heart Column Mold
4 oz. LCP Clear Soap Base
Magenta Color Block
1/4 tsp. Fine Red EcoGlitter
Lots of Lather Quick Mix
5 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
10 oz. Distilled Water (10% water discount)
1.75 oz. Love Letter Fragrance Oil
1 Tbsp. Titanium Dioxide
Activated Charcoal
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold

Creating Your Heart Embeds:
Start by cutting the LCP Clear Soap Base into small pieces and placing them in a heat-safe container alongside a chunk of Magenta Color Block. Melt in the microwave in 15-second bursts until smooth.
Stir in the Fine Red EcoGlitter, allowing the soap to cool to 125-130° F before pouring into your Mini Heart Silicone Column Mold. After about 2 hours of cooling, your embed is ready to be unmolded and set aside.

Preparing the Soap Base:
Gear up for safety with goggles, gloves, and long sleeves, ensuring a distraction-free environment.
Dissolve 5 oz. of lye into 10 oz. of distilled Water, cooling to about 110° F before combining with 35 oz. of melted Lots of Lather Quick Mix and Titanium Dioxide.
Blend to a light-medium trace, then whisk in the Love Letter Fragrance Oil, pouring into your loaf mold until it’s just full enough to fit your heart embed later on.

Sculpting Your Love Letter:
Use a custom-cut piece of cardboard to sculpt a triangular space within your soap mold, simulating the envelope flap of a love letter.
Strategically dust activated charcoal in the negative space before carefully refilling with soap, inserting the heart embed halfway through.

Finishing Touches:
After allowing your soap to set for 2-3 days, release it from the mold, cut into bars, and cure for 4-6 weeks. Whether it’s a gift for someone special or a treat for yourself, this Love Letter Soap is a testament to the beauty of handmade, heartfelt expressions.
Dive into this project enthusiastically, knowing that each bar you create is a message of love, care, and creativity.

Happy soap making!

The post Make Perfect Lines + Learn to Embed: Love Letter Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

 

Understanding Lye:

Lye, a caustic chemical, indeed demands utmost respect and careful handling. Its reputation for causing bodily harm is honest, but working with lye becomes safe and manageable with proper precautions, like driving a car or operating a gas stove. For a detailed guide on lye safety, refer to the [Lye Safety Guide](insert link).

You’ve encountered lye before in products like Drano or other drain cleaners. While these products contain sodium hydroxide, they are unsuitable for soapmaking due to additional chemicals. This underscores the importance of sourcing lye from reputable suppliers, such as Bramble Berry, which is 98% pure sodium hydroxide.

Dispelling Myths:

Contrary to dramatic portrayals, lye is not the corrosive substance depicted in movies like Fight Club. The discomfort from lye exposure typically starts with an itch and mild sting, progressing to a more intense sensation with prolonged contact. However, the immediate and severe damage portrayed in movies is not the reality.

Safety First:

When working with lye, safety precautions are non-negotiable:

1. Wear long sleeves, long pants, closed-toed shoes, protective gloves, and eye goggles.
2. Cover your entire body to minimize skin exposure.
3. Consider wearing a mask to avoid inhaling lye fumes, especially when mixing water and lye.

Addressing Lye Fumes:

The exothermic reaction between water and lye generates fumes, and while some soapmakers opt for masks, a well-ventilated room can often suffice. Mixing lye water outside or near open windows is a wise precaution, especially if you live in a small space.

Experienced Perspective:

After two decades of crafting cold-process soap, I can attest to never experiencing a severe lye burn. My worst encounter involved soap batter on a fresh cut, resulting in a stinging sensation that quickly subsided with proper care.

Parting Advice:

Embracing a healthy fear of lye is essential, but it shouldn’t hinder your exploration of cold process soap. Respect the seriousness of working with lye, follow safety guidelines diligently, and don’t let fear be a roadblock to your soapmaking journey.

For further insights and a visual guide to lye safety, refer to the OG Soap Queen TV video (different than the one embedded in this blog), where timeless information on lye safety is shared. Or head to the Bramble Berry Blog to learn more about Lye Safety here.

Remember, while lye demands caution, it’s a fundamental element in the alchemical artistry of soapmaking. With respect and knowledge, you can navigate this aspect of the craft safely and confidently.

The post Mastering Lye Safety: Overcoming Apprehensions and Embracing the Art of Soapmaking appeared first on Soap Queen.

The Hanger Swirl technique creates an interesting and unique design in each bar. The classic version involves layering various colors and moving the Hanger Swirl Tool up and down within the mold. It’s a technique that involves a good understanding of trace – don’t over stick blend or the colors will not swirl.

Find the recipe and a how to video HERE!

The post Pumpkin Sandalwood Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

The batch is made with Raw Shea Quick Mix. It’s a palm-free blend of oils that includes raw shea butter, babassu oil, and sweet almond oil. Our exclusive Quick Mixes make the process quick and easy – find all the options we offer here.

The post Citrus and Shea Soap Project appeared first on Soap Queen.

The natural sugar in beer boosts lather in cold process soap, and it’s also great from a marketing perspective. This soap is colored with activated charcoal and titanium dioxide to create a dramatic contrasting swirl. Because Oatmeal Stout Fragrance Oil does discolor, it’s added to the charcoal portion only. Over time, the discoloration will migrate slightly into the lighter portion – but will still look great! The lather does have a slight color, due to the charcoal and fragrance.

Working with alternative liquids takes a little extra prep work. In this case, that means boiling the beer to remove the alcohol and letting it sit uncovered for 1-2 days to get rid of carbonation. You can also freeze the beer to prevent further discoloration. Because this soap features a darker color palette, we were not concerned and added the lye directly to the boiled and chilled beer. Because of the extra prep work, we recommend this recipe for more advanced soap makers.

The post Charcoal Beer Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

Lemon and poppy seeds are a classic combination. This hot process recipe is scented with a bright and bubbly combination of Lemon Verbena and Champagne Fragrance Oil. It’s also made with poppy seeds for exfoliation. The end result is a cheerful bar that smells great and leaves skin feeling smooth.

Love the look of these bars, but prefer cold process soap? This project is based off our popular Lemon Poppy Seed Cold Process Soap. Cold process soap is smoother than hot process, which means you can create a straight mica line. Click here to watch this recipe in action.

One of the great things about this process is the extra heat speeds up saponification. That means the soap is ready to use after 24 hours and it doesn’t need a 4-6 week cure time like cold process soap. We still like to let our hot process soap cure for 1-2 weeks, just to make sure any excess water has evaporated.

Lemon Poppy Seed Hot Process Soap

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Sodium Lactate
0.5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil
1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil
Poppy Seeds
Yellow Mica
Activated Charcoal

If you’ve never made hot process soap before, stop here. Check out our FREE four-part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. Bramble Berry also carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking.

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 0.5 ounces of Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil and 1 ounce of Champagne Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of Yellow Mica into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Sunflower, sweet almond, or canola are great options. Stir or use a mini mixer to help get rid of clumps. Set aside. Have activated charcoal nearby, along with a powder duster or fine mesh sifter.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add the 4.7 ounces lye to 10.9 ounces distilled water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled to about 130° F, add the 1 ounce sodium lactate to the lye water. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.

TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear and there’s no cloudiness. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 oz. into your Crock-Pot and turn it on.
NOTE: The heat setting you use may vary depending on your cooking vessel. We have cooked hot process soap on low and high heat with equally good results. For this recipe, we used the high heat setting for a faster cook time. If you’re making hot process soap in your cooking vessel for the first time, start with the low setting. Next time try the high setting and see which you prefer.

THREE: Slowly add the lye water to the oils. Make sure the mixture does not fill up more than half of the pot. Tap the stick blender on the bottom of the pot to release air bubbles and begin to blend.

FOUR: Mix with a stick blender until thick trace. Put the lid on the Crock-Pot and allow the soap to start cooking.

FIVE: After about 10-15 minutes, check the soap. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly Vaseline-like texture.
NOTE: Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 10 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, make sure you’re wearing gloves, take the pot off heat, and stir like crazy.

SIX: Stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Place the lid back on the pot and allow it to cook for about another 10-20 minutes. The time may vary depending on the temperature of your Crock-Pot. Keep an eye on it, checking it every 5-10 minutes or so.

SEVEN: The batch is ready when it’s the texture of glossy mashed potatoes. To be sure, use a pH strip. Place a small amount of the soap into a cup of distilled water and stir. Dip the pH strip into the water – it should be below 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap, you don’t want it too dry for the next steps.

EIGHT: Add 2 teaspoons of poppy seeds directly to the soap and stir.

NINE: Add all of the fragrance blend and use a large spatula to stir in thoroughly.

TEN: Use a large spatula to transfer half of the soap to the mold. Tap firmly on the counter to even the soap out and get rid of bubbles. Place about 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into the powder duster and quickly apply a thin layer onto the soap. Be careful to not add too much, or the top layer may not stick.

ELEVEN: Add all of the dispersed Yellow Mica to the remaining soap and stir. Plop the soap into the mold and use your gloved hands to press it in. Tap firmly on the counter to help the soap evenly distribute.

TWELVE: Allow the soap to stay in the mold for at least 24 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. This soap is ready to use right away, but will last longer in the shower after at least a 2 week cure time. Enjoy!

Print

Lemon Poppy Seed Hot Process Soap

Course Hot Process Soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 33 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
• 4.7 oz. Sodium Hydroxide
• 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Sodium Lactate
• 0.5 oz. Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil
• 1 oz. Champagne Fragrance Oil
• Poppy Seeds
• Yellow Mica
• Activated Charcoal

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 0.5 ounces of Lemon Verbena Yankee Type Fragrance Oil and 1 ounce of Champagne Fragrance Oil into a small glass container and set aside.

COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of Yellow Mica into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Sunflower, sweet almond, or canola are great options. Stir or use a mini mixer to help get rid of clumps. Set aside. Have activated charcoal nearby, along with a powder duster or fine mesh sifter.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add the 4.7 ounces lye to 10.9 ounces distilled water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool. Once cooled to about 130° F, add the 1 ounce sodium lactate to the lye water. Sodium lactate is used in hot process at 3% of the oil weight to help produce a smoother bar.
• Fully melt the entire bag of Lots of Lather Quick Mix until it’s completely clear and there’s no cloudiness. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 oz. into your Crock-Pot and turn it on. NOTE: The heat setting you use may vary depending on your cooking vessel. We have cooked hot process soap on low and high heat with equally good results. For this recipe, we used the high heat setting for a faster cook time. If you’re making hot process soap in your cooking vessel for the first time, start with the low setting. Next time try the high setting and see which you prefer.
• Slowly add the lye water to the oils. Make sure the mixture does not fill up more than half of the pot. Tap the stick blender on the bottom of the pot to release air bubbles and begin to blend.
• Mix with a stick blender until thick trace. Put the lid on the Crock-Pot and allow the soap to start cooking.
• After about 10-15 minutes, check the soap. Starting from the outside, the texture and color of the soap will start to change into a glossy, slightly Vaseline-like texture. NOTE: Don’t be surprised if the soap starts to grow in volume. Do not leave your soap unattended in the first 10 minutes of cook time for this reason. If the soap gets too high in the pot, make sure you’re wearing gloves, take the pot off heat, and stir like crazy.
• Stir the batch to ensure even cooking. Place the lid back on the pot and allow it to cook for about another 10-20 minutes. The time may vary depending on the temperature of your Crock-Pot. Keep an eye on it, checking it every 5-10 minutes or so.
• The batch is ready when it’s the texture of glossy mashed potatoes. To be sure, use a pH strip. Place a small amount of the soap into a cup of distilled water and stir. Dip the pH strip into the water – it should be below 10. Be sure not to overcook the soap, you don’t want it too dry for the next steps.
• Add 2 teaspoons of poppy seeds directly to the soap and stir.
• Add all of the fragrance blend and use a large spatula to stir in thoroughly.
• Use a large spatula to transfer half of the soap to the mold. Tap firmly on the counter to even the soap out and get rid of bubbles. Place about 1 teaspoon of activated charcoal into the powder duster and quickly apply a thin layer onto the soap. Be careful to not add too much, or the top layer may not stick.
• Add all of the dispersed Yellow Mica to the remaining soap and stir. Plop the soap into the mold and use your gloved hands to press it in. Tap firmly on the counter to help the soap evenly distribute.
• Allow the soap to stay in the mold for at least 24 hours. Unmold and cut into bars. This soap is ready to use right away, but will last longer in the shower after at least a 2 week cure time. Enjoy!

The post Lemon Poppy Seed Hot Process Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

Patchouli essential oil has an earthy, smoky scent. It can elicit strong opinions because it’s an assertive fragrance, but what many people don’t know is how versatile patchouli essential oil is. It adds depth and complexity to a variety of scents. It blends wonderfully with floral, citrus, vanilla, and minty notes.

In this Patchouli & Bentonite Clay Soap, it’s blended with a touch of lime essential oil. Together they create a bright and earthy scent that’s sure to please. Patchouli is the defining scent of the blend, so if you prefer you can add more lime and less patchouli.

In addition to essential oils, the bars are made with natural activated charcoal, indigo powder, and bentonite clay. Bentonite clay is created from volcanic ash. It gives bath and beauty products a nice slip. This texture is great for shaving soaps, as it helps the razor glide over the skin. Bentonite clay also has strong oil absorbing properties, making it a great choice for oily skin.

Indigo powder creates the lovely gray-blue shade. Promoting gel phase helps the color pop a bit. If you’re looking for a natural blue color, jagua extract is a great option. You can also add a touch of Ultramarine Blue Oxide.

Patchouli & Bentonite Clay Soap

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
33 oz. Swirl Quick Mix
4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
10.9 oz. Distilled Water
1.5 oz. Patchouli Essential Oil
0.5 oz. Lime Essential Oil
Bentonite Clay
Activated Charcoal
Indigo Powder
Titanium Dioxide

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

If you’ve never made cold process soap before, stop here. We highly recommend checking out our FREE four-part SoapQueen.tv series on cold process soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Pure Soapmaking.

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of a lightweight liquid oil such as sunflower or sweet almond. In a separate container, disperse 2 teaspoons of indigo powder into 2 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil. Disperse 1 teaspoon of bentonite clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water – this mixture will be quite thick. Finally, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1/2 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of clumps.
Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning. 

FRAGRANCE PREP: In a glass fragrance oil-safe container, measure out 1.5 ounces of patchouli essential oil and 0.5 ounces of lime essential oil. Set aside.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

ONE: Slowly and carefully add 4.6 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of distilled water. Gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. Set it aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.

TWO: Fully melt the entire bag of Swirl Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into a heat-safe bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a very thin trace.

THREE: Add all of the bentonite clay mixture. Pulse and stir with the stick blender to fully incorporate. Clay tends to speed up trace, so be careful to not over blend during this stage.

FOUR: Add all of the essential oil blend and use a whisk to fully mix in.

FIVE: Split the soap into 3 separate containers. One container should hold 350 mL, and the remaining 2 should hold 600 mL. Add the following amounts of dispersed powders and whisk thoroughly.

• Container A (350 mL): 1 teaspoon dispersed activated charcoal
• Container B (600 mL): 1 tablespoon dispersed indigo powder + 1/2 teaspoon dispersed titanium dioxide
• Container C (600 mL): remaining dispersed titanium dioxide

SIX: At this point you want the soap to be a medium trace – thin enough to pour, but thick enough that it slightly holds its shape. If it’s still thin, quickly pulse each container with the stick blender starting from lightest to darkest. Once you reach a good texture, begin pouring small dollops of the blue soap into the mold in different areas. Don’t worry too much about the placement of the plops or making them the same size.

SEVEN: Pour plops of the white soap on top of the blue, followed by dollops of the black soap. Because you have less black soap, make these plops slightly smaller.

EIGHT: Continue to layer the various colors into the mold. The more dollops the more layers your soap will have. Alternating the spots you pour and the amounts will also create more variety in your bars. There’s really no right or wrong way to layer the colors, so have fun with it.
TIP: If your soap gets grainy, whisk until it’s smooth. If it gets too thick to pour, use a spoon to layer the soap. 

NINE: Once all the soap is in the mold, use a spoon to create texture on top. We created a side wave pattern by moving the spoon in one direction vertically down the mold.

TEN: Once you’re happy with the top, spritz it with 99% isopropyl alcohol. To help the indigo powder pop, we placed this soap on a heating pad set to medium high for about 2 hours to promote gel phase. Learn more about gel phase here.

Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy!

Print

Patchouli & Bentonite Clay Soap

Course Cold process soap

Cook Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 2 hours hours

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 33 oz. Swirl Quick Mix
• 4.6 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
• 10.9 oz. Distilled Water
• 1.5 oz. Patchouli Essential Oil
• 0.5 oz. Lime Essential Oil
• Bentonite Clay
• Activated Charcoal
• Indigo Powder
• Titanium Dioxide

Instructions

COLORANT PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of titanium dioxide into 1 tablespoon of a lightweight liquid oil such as sunflower or sweet almond. In a separate container, disperse 2 teaspoons of indigo powder into 2 tablespoons of lightweight liquid oil. Disperse 1 teaspoon of bentonite clay into 3 tablespoons of distilled water – this mixture will be quite thick. Finally, disperse 1/2 teaspoon of activated charcoal into 1/2 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to get rid of clumps. Optional: To ensure the titanium dioxide blends smoothly into the soap, we recommend micronizing it before dispersing it in oil. Use a coffee grinder to break up any clumps of color and prevent streaks of white from showing in the final soap. We like to use a coffee grinder that has a removable stainless steel mixing area for easy cleaning.

FRAGRANCE PREP: In a glass fragrance oil-safe container, measure out 1.5 ounces of patchouli essential oil and 0.5 ounces of lime essential oil. Set aside.

SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices. That means goggles, gloves, and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, other distractions, and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.

• Slowly and carefully add 4.6 ounces of lye to 10.9 ounces of distilled water. Gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. Set it aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 2 teaspoons sodium lactate.
• Fully melt the entire bag of Swirl Quick Mix until it’s completely clear. Shake the bag to mix up all the oils. Measure 33 ounces into a heat-safe bowl. Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a very thin trace.
• Add all of the bentonite clay mixture. Pulse and stir with the stick blender to fully incorporate. Clay tends to speed up trace, so be careful to not over blend during this stage.
• Add all of the essential oil blend and use a whisk to fully mix in.
• Split the soap into 3 separate containers. One container should hold 350 mL, and the remaining 2 should hold 600 mL. Add the following amounts of dispersed powders and whisk thoroughly.<br>Container A (350 mL): 1 teaspoon dispersed activated charcoal<br>Container B (600 mL): 1 tablespoon dispersed indigo powder + 1/2 teaspoon dispersed titanium dioxide<br>Container C (600 mL): remaining dispersed titanium dioxide
• At this point you want the soap to be a medium trace – thin enough to pour, but thick enough that it slightly holds its shape. If it’s still thin, quickly pulse each container with the stick blender starting from lightest to darkest. Once you reach a good texture, begin pouring small dollops of the blue soap into the mold in different areas. Don’t worry too much about the placement of the plops or making them the same size.
• Pour plops of the white soap on top of the blue, followed by dollops of the black soap. Because you have less black soap, make these plops slightly smaller.
• Continue to layer the various colors into the mold. The more dollops the more layers your soap will have. Alternating the spots you pour and the amounts will also create more variety in your bars. There’s really no right or wrong way to layer the colors, so have fun with it. TIP: If your soap gets grainy, whisk until it’s smooth. If it gets too thick to pour, use a spoon to layer the soap.
• Once all the soap is in the mold, use a spoon to create texture on top. We created a side wave pattern by moving the spoon in one direction vertically down the mold.
• Once you’re happy with the top, spritz it with 99% isopropyl alcohol. To help the indigo powder pop, we placed this soap on a heating pad set to medium high for about 2 hours to promote gel phase. Learn more about gel phase here. Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Unmold and cut into bars. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy!

The post Patchouli & Bentonite Clay Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

If you want to customize soap down to the last ingredient, cold process is a great option. You get to choose the oils, colorants, scents, and more. Once you find your perfect recipe you can start getting creative with the designs.

Cold process soap is made by combining oils and sodium hydroxide lye. That causes a chemical reaction called saponification. Melt and pour soap has already gone through that process – learn more about working with it here.

Below you’ll find cold process terms, safety tips, and a list of the equipment you need to get started.

COMMONLY-USED TERMS

Trace: This is the point when the oils and lye water are emulsified. At thin trace, there will be no streaks of oil and the soap will be the consistency of thin cake batter. As the soap sits, it will continue to thicken to medium and thick trace. This video has more information and examples of each stage.

Gel phase: During gel phase, soap gets as hot as 180°F and develops a gelatinous appearance. Learn more in the Jazzed About Gel Phase post. Gelled soap has a brighter color and a slightly shiny appearance. It can also be unmolded more quickly. Some makers force their soap through gel phase with blankets and heating pads. However, gel phase isn’t required – it’s personal preference. It only affects the look of the bars, not the quality. Ungelled soap has a more matte appearance. You can prevent gel phase by putting soap in the freezer for 24 hours. Learn how to force it or prevent it in the When to Insulate Handmade Soap post.

Curing: Technically, cold process soap is safe to use after a few days. However, we recommend letting the soap cure for 4-6 weeks in a cool, dry place with good airflow. Excess water will evaporate, which creates harder and milder bars that last longer in the shower. It’s definitely worth the wait.  

Lye Calculator: This tool makes formulating cold process recipes easy. All you have to do is enter the oil weight or percentage and the Lye Calculator will give you the lye and liquid amount you need for your recipe. It also calculates the superfat level. Learn how to use the Lye Calculator here.

Soda ash: This creates an uneven, white, ashy film on soap. It forms when unsaponified lye reacts with naturally-occurring carbon dioxide in the air. It doesn’t affect the quality and the soap is safe to use. However, it can obscure more intricate designs or make the bars feel crumbly. You can prevent it with a few tricks, including a 10% water discount and gel phase. Learn more in the Explaining and Preventing Soda Ash post.

LYE SAFETY

Lye is a highly corrosive product. It’s safe to use as long as it’s handled properly. Before getting started, make sure to watch this video or read this post about lye safety. Make sure there are no kids, pets, or other distractions in the room when you’re making soap and always do so in a well-ventilated area. You’ll need the following items to work with lye.

Gloves: Rubber dish gloves that go almost to the elbow work great, but they can be bulky. Thinner nitrile or latex gloves provide protection without the bulk. Whatever you choose, they should be paired with long sleeves.

Goggles: Alkali burns are extremely dangerous for your eyes. Your safety goggles should protect them from all sides, so regular glasses aren’t sufficient protection. If you wear glasses, make sure to get goggles that fit over them.

Long sleeves, pants, and close-toed shoes: Protect yourself from unexpected splashes by covering any exposed skin.

Face mask: This is an optional step. If you’re sensitive to lye fumes or if you’re making large batches, you can wear a dust mask.

EQUIPMENT

Any equipment used for soapmaking should be exclusive – don’t use it for food. Lye and fragrance can get stuck in cracks, even with thorough washing. We also recommend hand washing instead of using the dishwasher. Learn more about how to clean soapmaking tools in this post.

Containers: We recommend heat-safe glass, plastic, or stainless steel bowls. Don’t use aluminum – it can react with the lye and create toxic fumes.

Stick/immersion blender: Using a whisk or stand mixer can take hours. Stick blenders emulsify the soap in just a minute or two, so it’s worth the investment.

Silicone spatulas and spoons: Use these to scrape every last bit of soap out of your container and into the mold. They’re also great for smoothing the top or creating texture.

Scale: For accuracy, all of our soap recipes are measured by weight instead of volume. This is a good $20 starter scale.

Soap molds: There are plenty of options to choose from. This post can help you decide which one is right for you.

• Silicone molds: These molds are easy to use, unmold, and clean. They’re a great option for beginner and advanced crafters.
• Wood molds: These are great for large batches and they make it easy to force gel phase. They need to be lined with freezer paper or a silicone liner.
• Plastic molds: You can use these for cold process, but they do require a few extra steps. We recommend a recipe with lots of hard oils and sodium lactate to help the bars come out cleanly and quickly. Get more tips here.

Beginner Recipes
Simple and Gentle Soap
Simple Castile Soap
Menthol Crystal Soap
Simple Coffee Soap
Swirled Rose Soap

Intermediate Recipes
Chopped Embed Soap
Crescent Moon Soap
Swirled Orchid Soap
Pink Salt and Gold Soap
Moonstone Soap

Advanced Recipes
Safflower and Ginger Soap
Siren Soap
Birchwood Oud Soap
Cactus Flower Soap
Chocolate Peppermint Soap Cupcakes

More Cold Process Resources
Common Soapmaking Oils
Formulating Cold Process Recipes
How to Color Handmade Soap
Back to Basics Series Roundup
Using the Bramble Berry Fragrance Calculator

This post was updated in January 2019.

The post Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Cold Process appeared first on Soap Queen.

Rebatch is a technique that involves melting shredded cold process soap and customizing it with additives. This Lingonberry Rebatch Soap is made on the stove top, but you can also use a slow cooker or a double boiler. The key is low and slow heat to prevent burning.

The recipe is scented with a blend of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil and slightly sweeter Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil. Cranberry seeds are added for exfoliation and interest. Rose hips are placed on top to give the bars a finishing touch.

If you’ve never made rebatch soap before, learn how in the Wildflower Rebatch Soap video. In both projects we use the Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap. It’s made in-house with skin-loving ingredients like cocoa butter, shea butter, and mango butter. We recommend using it within 1-2 months. Older soap will need more distilled water and it will take longer to soften.

Lingonberry Rebatch Soap

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
50 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap
4-6 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
0.5 oz. Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil
1 Tbsp. Cranberry Seeds
Rose Hips

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1 ounce of Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil and 0.5 ounces of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil into a glass fragrance oil-safe container. Set aside.

ONE: Place a large sauce pot on the stove and turn the heat onto medium. You can also use a double boiler or a slow cooker.

TWO: Add as much rebatch soap as your pot can comfortably hold – we added about 30 ounces at first. Pour in about 2 ounces of distilled water.

THREE: Allow the soap to heat up and soften. Stir every 30-60 seconds to prevent burning. After a few minutes, the soap will begin to condense into a very thick paste. Add the rest of the rebatch soap and 2-3 ounces of distilled water.

FOUR: As the soap continues to cook, it will become softer. Keep stirring every few minutes.

FIVE: Eventually the soap will take on the texture of very thick mashed potatoes with a slightly glossy look. All the small pieces of rebatch soap should be melted and incorporated.

SIX: Turn off the heat and add the fragrance oil mixture. Stir in thoroughly.

SEVEN: Add 1 tablespoon of cranberry seeds and thoroughly mix in.
NOTE: Feel free to add more seeds if you like a very scrubby bar. You can also use less.

EIGHT: Quickly transfer the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help settle the soap into the mold.

NINE: Use gloved hands to press the top of the soap to give it an even and smooth appearance.

TEN: Working quickly before the soap cools, place rose hips down the length of the mold. Place them where you’d like the middle of the bar to be.

ELEVEN: Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for 24 hours. If the mold pulls away easily from the soap, it’s ready to unmold. If not, let it harden for another day.

TWELVE: Cut into bars. Rebatch soap doesn’t require a 4-6 week cure time like cold process soap does. But allowing the bars to cure for about 2 weeks will ensure extra moisture evaporates, creating a harder and longer-lasting bar. Enjoy.

Print

Lingonberry Rebatch Soap

Course Rebatch Soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 50 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap
• 4-6 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
• 0.5 oz. Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbsp. Cranberry Seeds
• Rose Hips

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1 ounce of Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil and 0.5 ounces of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil into a glass fragrance oil-safe container. Set aside.

• Place a large sauce pot on the stove and turn the heat onto medium. You can also use a double boiler or a slow cooker.
• Add as much rebatch soap as your pot can comfortably hold – we added about 30 ounces at first. Pour in about 2 ounces of distilled water.
• Allow the soap to heat up and soften. Stir every 30-60 seconds to prevent burning. After a few minutes, the soap will begin to condense into a very thick paste. Add the rest of the rebatch soap and 2-3 ounces of distilled water.
• As the soap continues to cook, it will become softer. Keep stirring every few minutes.
• Eventually the soap will take on the texture of very thick mashed potatoes with a slightly glossy look. All the small pieces of rebatch soap should be melted and incorporated.
• Turn off the heat and add the fragrance oil mixture. Stir in thoroughly.
• Add 1 tablespoon of cranberry seeds and thoroughly mix in. NOTE: Feel free to add more seeds if you like a very scrubby bar. You can also use less.
• Quickly transfer the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help settle the soap into the mold.
• Use gloved hands to press the top of the soap to give it an even and smooth appearance.
• Working quickly before the soap cools, place rose hips down the length of the mold. Place them where you’d like the middle of the bar to be.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for 24 hours. If the mold pulls away easily from the soap, it’s ready to unmold. If not, let it harden for another day.
• Cut into bars. Rebatch soap doesn’t require a 4-6 week cure time like cold process soap does. But allowing the bars to cure for about 2 weeks will ensure extra moisture evaporates, creating a harder and longer-lasting bar. Enjoy.

The post Lingonberry Rebatch Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.