Old favorites like olive oil and rice bran oil are great additions in handmade lotion. There’s no denying their powerful moisturizing properties, but the list of ingredients you can add to your recipe doesn’t stop there. Your skin will love additives like our new honeyquat and allantoin powder.
Both of those new ingredients are used in this Lavender and Honeyquat Lotion. It’s also made with moringa seed oil, rosehip seed oil, and shea butter. That mixture creates a thick lotion that absorbs quickly into the skin and leaves it feeling soft and silky. Allantoin powder adds a hydrating feel to the lotion while honeyquat draws more moisture to the skin.
This lotion has a sweet, floral scent from new Lavender Absolute 50%, which is amazing paired with the herby scent of moringa seed oil. On its own, lavender absolute is incredibly thick and hard to work with. Bramble Berry’s Lavender Absolute 50% has been diluted with fractionated coconut oil to create a thinner product that’s easier to use. It’s still quite thick and heavy, so pay special attention to the lotion temperature when you add it to this recipe. If it’s added while the lotion is still very thin, it may separate out.
Four 4 oz. Bottles (White Disk Cap)
Water Phase:
11.9 oz. Distilled Water (73%)
0.1 oz Allantoin Powder (0.5% )
Oil Phase:
1 oz. Moringa Seed Oil (6%)
1 oz. Rosehip Seed Oil (6%)
0.3 oz. Shea Butter (2%)
1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax (6%)
0.3 oz. Cetearyl Alcohol (2%)
Cool Down Phase:
0.5 oz. Honeyquat (3%)
2 mL or 40 drops Lavender Absolute (0.5%)
5 mL Optiphen (1%)
Click here to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!
EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your lotion. Your products must be as free as possible of germs, bacteria, and microbes.
ONE: In a heat-safe container, combine the rosehip seed oil, moringa seed oil, shea butter, Polawax Emulsifying Wax, and cetearyl alcohol. Heat the container in the microwave in 30-second bursts until the waxes have fully melted and the mixture is about 160° F.
TWO: Pour the distilled water into a second heat-safe container. Heat in the microwave to about 160° F. Add the allantoin powder to the hot water. Use a spoon to fully mix in the powder until completely dissolved.
THREE: Check the temperatures of both containers. Each should be about 140-150° F. Once they are at the correct temperature, pour the oils and wax into the water and begin pulsing the stick blender. Blend the mixture for 60-90 seconds, making sure the oil and water phases are fully emulsified. Be careful to “burp” your stick blender by tamping it on the bottom of the container to release bubbles – you don’t want bubbles trapped in your lotion.
FOUR: Continue stick blending until the temperature drops to about 130° F. Add the honeyquat and use the stick blender to pulse for about 60 seconds to fully mix in.
FIVE: Because the Lavender Absolute 50% is thick, it must not be added until the mixture has cooled and thickened. If added to a hot, thin lotion, it may separate out. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once it is 130° F or below, add the Lavender Absolute 50% and stick blend for several minutes. It will turn the lotion a very faint green color. Once mixed in, add the Optiphen and continue to stick blend for about 1-2 minutes more.
SIX: Carefully pour the lotion into bottles. Let the bottles sit overnight without a cap (otherwise condensation can form inside the bottle). Once completely cooled, place the caps on the bottles and enjoy!
NOTE: If the Lavender Absolute 50% begins to separate after being poured into the bottles, don’t fret. Pour the lotion back into bowl, and stick blend the lotion for several more minutes. If it’s too thick to blend, place the mixture into the microwave and heat using 15-second bursts until it has slightly thinned.
Lavender & Honeyquat Lotion Recipe
Ingredients
- Four 4 oz. Bottles White Disk Cap
- 11.9 oz. Distilled Water 73%
- 0.1 oz Allantoin Powder 0.5%
- 1 oz. Moringa Seed Oil 6%
- 1 oz. Rosehip Seed Oil 6%
- 0.3 oz. Shea Butter 2%
- 1 oz. Polawax Emulsifying Wax 6%
- 0.3 oz. Cetearyl Alcohol 2%
- 0.5 oz. Honeyquat 3%
- 2 mL or 40 drops Lavender Absolute 0.5%
- 5 mL Optiphen 1%
Instructions
EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your lotion. Your products must be as free as possible of germs, bacteria, and microbes.
- In a heat-safe container, combine the rosehip seed oil, moringa seed oil, shea butter, Polawax Emulsifying Wax, and cetearyl alcohol. Heat the container in the microwave in 30-second bursts until the waxes have fully melted and the mixture is about 160° F.
- Pour the distilled water into a second heat-safe container. Heat in the microwave to about 160° F. Add the allantoin powder to the hot water. Use a spoon to fully mix in the powder until completely dissolved.
- Check the temperatures of both containers. Each should be about 140–150° F. Once they are at the correct temperature, pour the oils and wax into the water and begin pulsing the stick blender. Blend the mixture for 60 – 90 seconds, making sure the oil and water phases are fully emulsified. Be careful to “burp” your stick blender by tamping it on the bottom of the container to release bubbles — you don’t want bubbles trapped in your lotion.
- Continue stick blending until the temperature drops to about 130° F. Add the honeyquat and use the stick blender to pulse for about 60 seconds to fully mix in.
- Because the Lavender Absolute 50% is thick, it must not be added until the mixture has cooled and thickened. If added to a hot, thin lotion, it may separate out. Check the temperature of the mixture. Once it is 130° F or below, add the Lavender Absolute 50% and stick blend for several minutes. It will turn the lotion a very faint green color. Once mixed in, add the Optiphen and continue to stick blend for about 1-2 minutes more.
- Carefully pour the lotion into bottles. Let the bottles sit overnight without a cap (otherwise condensation can form inside the bottle). Once completely cooled, place the caps on the bottles and enjoy!
How can I make this a cream for the face instead of lotion for the body? I cannot find a face cream recipe anywhere on BB.
You could try this recipe for the face but it may be a bit heavy.
For a lotion specifically created for the face try our Fresh Face Lavender & Aloe Lotion or the oil free version.
https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/lavender-aloe-face-moisturizer/
https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/oil-free-lavender-face-lotion/
I want to substitute Stearic Acid for the Cetearyl Alcohol. Is it a 1-1 substitution?
Also, is there a reason we wait to add the honeyquat to the lotion? I had assumed honeyquat is just a nicer substitute for glycerin which we usually add to the water before heating – I think.
Thanks so much! I love Brambleberry’s products. Always my go to store.
Nevermind! I noticed my questions were answered elsewhere.
2-5% Stearic Acid for those wondering the answer to my question!
HI can a lotion be made with raw agave and or honey if so will
Dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol preserve it or what suggestions do you have please .
Yes, you can use honey in lotion. We recommend it at 5% of the total weight of the recipe and you’ll need to mix it into the distilled water. This post talks more about that: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/use-honey-bath-beauty-products/
For a preservative, we recommend Optiphen, Germaben, or Phenonip. They’ll protect against mold and bacteria in your recipe.
Optiphen: https://www.brambleberry.com/Optiphen-P3682.aspx
Germaben: https://www.brambleberry.com/Germaben-Preservative-P3972.aspx
Phenonip: https://www.brambleberry.com/Phenonip-P4038.aspx
Learn more about preservatives here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/talk-it-out-tuesday-preservatives/
Hi,
I just wanted to know, are these lotions that use emulsifying wax acidic or basic? If so, what is their pH?
Thanks
I believe the pH of this lotion is around 7. To be sure, you can pH test it once it’s finished: https://www.brambleberry.com/pH-Strips-1-pack-of-50-P4434.aspx
I want to make this recipe for my friends as a Christmas gift. If I make it now (March) will it still be fresh and good in December. Is there a time limit on the quality of the product if it sits too long?
This lotion lasts about a year when stored in a cool, dry place. You can definitely make it ahead of time if you like, but you may want to make it a bit closer to December so the recipients have more time to enjoy it.
Learn more about the shelf life of handmade products here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/shelf-life-bath-products-ingredients-rancidity-vs-mold/
Can I substitute lavender essential oil instead of the lavender absolute? What would the amount be?
Yes, you can use lavender essential oil in this recipe. Find out how much to add with our Fragrance Calculator: /www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
Hi, which optiphen preservatives is this for 73% DS water?
Thank you.
We use regular Optiphen: https://www.brambleberry.com/Optiphen-P3682.aspx
Hi I don’t have allantoin or C alcohol. Could those simply be omitted? And could I use different combo of oils same amount?
Thank you!
The allantoin is optional so you can leave that out. Cetearyl alcohol helps to thicken the lotion and stabilize the emulsion. We recommend it in this recipe to ensure the oil and water stay mixed. If you don’t have it, you can also use stearic acid: https://www.brambleberry.com/Stearic-Acid-P4210.aspx
Learn more about lotion ingredients here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
Do you guys happen to know if one can add salt to a lotion? I was wondering whether it’ll mess with the emulsification of the lotion.
We haven’t given that a try so I’m not sure what would happen. We have added salt as an exfoliant to an emulsified scrub with good results: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/soaks-and-scrubs/emulsified-scrub-scratch-soap-queen-tv/
Why are you wanting to add it? There may be another ingredient we have tried that we can recommend.
I often experience condensation after filling my bottles. This happens with lotions made from scratch as well as with lotion bases. It happens very soon after filling the bottles and I have not put the caps on and it doesn’t go away after 24 hours uncapped. The temps range from 125F – under 140F. It’s happened with plastic bottles and glass mason jars. I don’t usually fill the bottles to the top. Maybe I should start filling them to the top so there will be nowhere for condensation to build? Is this a problem as far as bacteria is concerned? Thanks!
Is it fairly hot or humid where you’re storing your lotion bottles?
Yes, it’s is humid where I am. I made some lotion this past weekend and the temps were cool, however, the humidity may still have been a little high. I don’t mind if I need to fill the bottles more toward the top so I can easily wipe the condensation away, if needed. My main concern is these particular bottles and if they are in danger of causing mold once the bottle is squeezed and the lotion comes into contact and mixes with the condensation. I was hoping the preventive would take care of it once they have combined. I hope that makes sense.
Absolutely. The lotion may just need a bit more time with the lid off for that condensation to evaporate in humid weather. Try placing the lotion bottles in a cool, dry area. If you have a dehumidifier or a fan that will help. You can also try filling the bottles more if you like, that way there’s less room for it to form.
Thank you so much for your help!
Can you use Honeywuat In CP soap, if so how do I incorporate it? Add to oils or at thin trace? Thank you and I can’t wait to hear back!
Yes, you can use honeyquat in soap. It’s water soluble, so you can mix it into the cooled lye water or add it at thin trace. I would start with about 1-5% in your recipe.
I am super excited about this recipe, however I don’t have
optiphen, what other preservative can i use and in what quantities? Can i add oat powder to the recipe and if I can do I add it at the water phase?
You can use Phenonip in this recipe in the same amount, that will work well: https://www.brambleberry.com/Phenonip-P4038.aspx
You can use colloidal oatmeal (oat powder) in your recipe at 1% in the water phase. It does thicken the lotion up, so you may want to make a small test batch to see if you need to add more water to thin it out.
Colloidal oatmeal: https://www.brambleberry.com/Colloidal-Oatmeal-P5565.aspx
Learn more about making lotion here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
I imagine it should be very good even this lavender recipe, well explained the post and easy to understand, because it would be better still a video explaining only the way of preparation, but it is to be congratulated …. Success !!
Thanks for your suggestion, we’ll keep that in mind for future videos. You may also like this handmade lotion video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGOyGbPmtLw&t=163s
trying to understand the ratios…is polawax .25% of the oils?
The Polawax is 6% of the weight of the recipe. The weight of the entire recipe is the best way to find those percentages. Learn more in this post on formulating lotion: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
Are you trying to resize a recipe, or make a substitution? Let me know and I can help you out.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
One more thing, can I substitute beeswax for polymer wax?
Thanks!
The Polawax is necessary in this recipe – it emulsifies the oil and water and prevents separation. This recipe talks more about emulsifiers: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
If you’d like to skip those, you can make a balm. Because it’s made up of oil and wax and no water, it doesn’t need to be emulsified. I’ll link some balm recipes you may like below.
Frankincense Body Balm: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/frankincense-essential-oil-balm/
Chamomile and Coconut Oil Balm: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/infused-chamomile-coconut-balm/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Why do you switch from mL to Oz measure. It is confusing. my scale does not measure mLs. Also when I measure out liquids in a measuring cup. I TARE the scale with the measuring cup on it. However, the line on the cup will say 14 ounces, but my scale will say 11.5 ounces.
Is there an issue with my scale? or should I just go by the oz measured on the glass measuring cup?
Thanks for any feedback.
When we say ounces in our recipes, those ounces are measured by weight on a scale. The cup will say a different amount because it’s measured by volume. The same goes for mL – that’s a volume measurement, so it’s not able to be weighed on a scale. You can use these droppers to measure ingredients in mL: https://www.brambleberry.com/Droppers-With-Suction-Bulb-P3802.aspx
This post has more on the difference between weight and volume: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/a-guide-to-weight-vs-volume/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I have already made this recipe two times. I can’t get enough of it and neither can those I have given it to.
Thank you Brambleberry!
That’s awesome, so glad to hear that! Thank you Joan. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Hi, what is good substitute for Allantoin powder? Thanks. 🙂
Allantoin is a unique ingredient, so there isn’t a direct substitute for it. You can leave it out of this recipe, or add DL-Panthenol at 1-5%. That adds nice moisturizing and conditioning properties that may give you a similar feeling to the allantoin: https://www.brambleberry.com/DL-Panthenol-P4852.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Is there a good substitution for polawax?
You can use e-wax instead, it is the generic version of Polawax. You’ll want to use the same amount and use it the same way as the Polawax: https://www.brambleberry.com/Emulsifying-Wax-P4896.aspx
Learn more about making lotion here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Any suggestions on what to replace the moringa oil with? I have everything but that, and my family is getting desperate for some good lotion!! I have apricot, avocado, jojoba, hemp and rice bran….any of those Okay? I’m excited to try something different!! Thanks!
Absolutely, the consistency and absorption remind us of jojoba oil, or a slightly heavier avocado oil. Either one of those would make good substitutes. 🙂
Jojoba oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/jojoba-oil-golden-p3219.aspx
Avocado oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Avocado-Oil-P3198.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Sorry, one more quick question!
What can be used to replace the Cetearyl Alcohol? In the recipes I have made in the past, I’ve used a combination of Polawax and BTMS 50, or stearic acid, so would either of those products work? Thank you!!
Stearic acid works well. It’s a co-emulsifier like cetearyl alcohol, and it also thickens the lotion. We recommend it at 2-5% in the recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Stearic-Acid-by-weight-P4210.aspx
Learn more about making lotion here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Just found this site. Amazing. I just love it, Thank you
Can’t wait to try some of your recipes
Rhonda Rooke
Cobble Hill, B.C.
Canada
You’re welcome Rhonda, glad you’re enjoying the site! Thanks for saying so. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Can iuse pure honey instead of honesquat?
You can, but keep in mind the recipe will feel different because the honeyquat is different than pure honey. I would recommend using about 1-3% honey in this recipe and adding that to the water phase. A small test batch will help you see if you like the consistency before making a larger batch.
Learn more about working with honey here: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/use-honey-bath-beauty-products/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Does this lotion feel greasy or sticky? Thank you.
When the lotion is first applied, you may notice a slight stickiness. That is common with humectants like glycerin and honeyquat, as they draw moisture to the skin. However, that stickiness goes away fairly quickly as the lotion absorbs into the skin. The oils in the recipe are lightweight, so I didn’t notice a greasy feeling.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I just order this, is the new recipe going to affect my order?
It will arrive this Thursday 7/27/17.
I will have forward your message to customer service and they will contact you with a shipping estimate. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I don’t have honeyquat or lavender absolute but don’t want to wait for my order to arrive to make a batch of lotion. What are good substitutes for them?
In place of the honeyquat, you can use liquid glycerin: https://www.brambleberry.com/Glycerin-Liquid-P5965.aspx
You can use it in the same amount and the same way as the honeyquat.
As for the lavender, you can use any skin-safe fragrance or essential oil instead of the lavender. Just make sure to run this recipe through the Fragrance Calculator to find out how much to add: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx
Fragrance oils: https://www.brambleberry.com/Fragrance-Oils-C161.aspx
Essential oils: https://www.brambleberry.com/Essential-Oils-C157.aspx
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
If you are using glycerin instead of the honeyquat, do you add it to the water phase (as found in other recipes) or add it to the cool down phase?
Thanks in advance.
You can do either, we usually mix it in with the water phase like in this recipe: https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/sunshine-lotion-tutorial/
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Is Honeyquat made from honey? So it’s not considered vegan, is it?
That’s correct – honeyquat is made from honey, so it isn’t considered vegan.
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
I’ve read reviews of Honeyquat that it is great to work with, but has a terrible smell that does carry over to the finished product. Did you experience this in your tests? Thanks!
Honeyquat does have a pretty distinct smell, but we don’t notice it in finished products, especially with a fragrance or essential oils. It’s typically used in a small amount so that scent doesn’t carry over. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry
Thank you, Kelsey! BrambleBerry.com and Soap Queen.com have the BEST customer service hands down!
Oh thanks so much, we appreciate you saying so. 🙂
-Kelsey with Bramble Berry