Unlock the Magic of Fall Skincare with Oil-Based Cleansers! ????

Amidst the cozy embrace of pumpkin-spiced lattes and woolen scarves, have you ever paused to consider the secret elixir for glowing autumn skin? Look no further than oil-based cleansers, Mother Nature’s luxurious spa treat.

But why, you ask? As the air becomes drier, our skin craves extra hydration. Traditional cleansers can be overzealous, sometimes stripping skin of natural oils. Enter the world of oil-based magic. Like a protective suit of armor, these cleansers guard our skin against fall’s brisk bite. And if you ski or do outdoor winter sports? That skin mantle really needs the extra love.

Our very own Chamomile Cleansing Balm is like a potion brewed in a fairy’s cauldron. With the gentleness of chamomile – known for its hydration and anti-inflammatory properties – and the fortifying strength of Avocado Oil, it not only maintains your skin’s pH balance but also serves as a valiant knight against fine lines, aging, and rough patches.

The Microbiome: Your Skin’s Royal Guard ????

Picture the microbiome as the majestic guard of a castle. It’s a harmonious blend of protective oils and loyal bacteria, known as microbiota, which defends our kingdom (read: body) from potential threats. As autumn winds blow, this guard ensures our fortress remains impervious to issues like dryness and acne. A oil based cleansing cream can be equally good at helping to maintain that barrier of protective oil.

While sipping on apple cider and indulging in seasonal veggies, remember to treat your skin’s outer layer. Complement your oil-based cleanser with a hydrating serum or moisturizer. For best results, use the cleansing cream or balm in the evening to thoroughly remove the day’s impurities, then seal in moisture with your favorite night cream or (bonus points) layer on the goodness with a hyaluronic acid serum (DIY recipe here or buy the pre-made base in bulk here).

Autumn’s Call to Action ????

As you embrace autumn’s charm, consider this: Oil-based cleansers aren’t just another product; they’re a skincare revolution! Whether you’re a skincare novice or a seasoned pro, there’s always room for a bit of DIY magic. So, when contemplating your fall skincare ritual, let oil-based cleansers lead the way to a more moisturized, protected and nourished face for fall. Find recipes + exciting cleanser formulations at Brambleberry.com here.

The post Oil’s Well That Ends Well: The Magic of Washing Your Face with Oils appeared first on Soap Queen.

Has your cold process soap ever looked gelatinous after a few hours in the mold? It’s likely going through gel phase. That’s a part of the saponification process where the soap gets hot – up to 180°F. It doesn’t affect the quality of the final bars, but it does affect the way they look.

You can choose whether to force gel phase based on your recipe and personal preference.

Forcing gel phase
There are a few reasons you may want to gel soap:

• You want vibrant colors. Gel phase helps the colors pop and it gives the bars a slightly shiny appearance. Learn more about how to color handmade soap here.
• You’re using natural colorants. Without gel phase, they can have a dull appearance and a different hue. For instance, gelled soap colored with madder root powder has a deep red hue. The ungelled version is a muted mauve. See both versions in this post.
• You’re using LabColors. Gel phase makes them brighter and ensures they’re true to color. The Layered Lavender Soap goes from gray to purple after gel phase.
• You’re in a hurry. Because of the higher temperatures, gelled soap hardens and unmolds more quickly. The soap still needs to cure for 4-6 weeks.

Warm temperatures are key to forcing gel phase. Start with your lye and oils around 120-130°F. Once the soap is in the mold, cover it with a cutting board and then a towel or blanket.

If your soapmaking area is cooler, you can place it on a heating pad set to medium. Check it after 30 minutes to make sure it’s not overheating – that can cause volcanoes, heat tunnels, or glycerin rivers. If it’s getting too hot, turn the heating pad off and remove the blanket. If not, leave it on for another 30-60 minutes. Then, turn the heating pad off but leave the soap on it overnight. Learn more about how to insulate soap here. 

Preventing gel phase
Here’s why you might want to prevent it:

• You prefer matte soap. Ungelled bars look creamy and have pastel colors that some makers love.
• You’re making cold process soap with milk. It can scorch if it gets too hot, which causes discoloration and an unpleasant smell. That can also happen with alternative liquids like coffee, wine, tea, etc.
• The same goes for soap made with additives like fruit or honey. We recommend keeping the temperatures low to prevent scorching.
• You’re working with soap frosting. If it gets too hot it may not hold its shape.

This Pure Honey Soap is kept cold to prevent scorching.

To keep your soap cool, start with your lye and oils around 90-100°F. Once it’s in the mold, put it in the fridge or freezer for 24 hours. You can also put the soap  in a cool area like a garage or basement and run a fan over it.

The third option is to leave your soap uncovered at room temperature. It may gel or not, depending on oil and lye temperatures and how warm the space is. That can sometimes result in partial gel phase, where one area of the soap (typically the middle) is slightly darker than the rest. Again, that only affects the look of the bars – they’ll still feel great on the skin.

These bars only gelled in the middle, which caused the color difference.

As with everything in soapmaking, the best way to find out what you prefer is to experiment. Try all three methods and then choose your favorite.

This post was updated in February 2019.

The post All About Gel Phase appeared first on Soap Queen.

If you’re looking for a last-minute Valentine’s Day gift, try these Heart Lotion Bars. They’re made with sweet almond oil, cocoa butter, and Vanilla Select Fragrance Oil. The bars are solid at room temperature, but melt on contact with the skin. They’re great for extra dry patches like elbows, knees, and hands.

The bars couldn’t be easier to make – simply melt together the beeswax and sweet almond oil, then add the cocoa butter wafers and stir. The natural scent of cocoa butter smells amazing with the Vanilla Select Fragrance Oil.

Heart Lotion Bars

What You Need:
6 Cavity Heart Silicone Mold
Pink Rose Petals
6.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
4.8 oz. White Beeswax
4.8 oz. Cocoa Butter Wafers
4 mL Vanilla Select Fragrance Oil
Dropper

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

Print

Heart Lotion Bars

Course Lotion Bars

Cook Time 30 minutes minutes

Total Time 30 minutes minutes

Servings 6 lotion bars

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• 6 Cavity Heart Silicone Mold
• Pink Rose Petals
• 6.4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
• 4.8 oz. White Beeswax
• 4.8 oz. Cocoa Butter Wafers
• 4 mL Vanilla Select Fragrance Oil
• Dropper

Instructions

• In a heat-safe container, add 4.8 ounces of white beeswax and 6.4 ounces of sweet almond oil. Melt in the microwave using 60 second bursts.
• Add 4.8 ounces of cocoa butter wafers to the hot wax and oil mixture. Stir until the cocoa butter melts. If there are small pieces that won’t melt, place the container back in the microwave and heat using 10 second bursts.
• Add 4 mL of Vanilla Select Fragrance Oil and stir in thoroughly.
• Place a small pinch of rose petals into each mold cavity. Use a spoon to cover the petals with a bit of the oil mixture (this helps the petals stay in place). Allow to cool and harden for about 1 minute.
• Carefully pour the remaining oil mixture into each cavity. Place the mold in the freezer so it cools quickly. That helps prevent crystallization.
• Remove from the freezer after 30-60 minutes and enjoy!

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When people look into how to make soap, they’re often intimidated by how many ingredients they need. Even if a recipe only has 3 oils, they also need lye, molds, containers, etc. That’s why we created Quick Mixes. They’re bags of premixed oils designed to make it easier for you. All you have to do is melt and measure them – no need to worry about buying individual oils or formulating a recipe. Shop Quick Mixes here.

We offer Lots of Lather Quick Mix, Basic Quick Mix, and Swirl Quick Mix. Each one is formulated and made by Bramble Berry experts for specific recipes. For instance, Swirl Quick Mix is made with slow-moving oils that work best for intricate designs. Learn more about what’s in each mix in this Sunday Night Spotlight.

To use, place the bag of Quick Mix in the microwave with the lid on. Heat until the oils are completely clear and give the bag a good shake to mix. Weigh out what you need into a heat-resistant container. If you prefer, you can heat the bag of oils in a pot of hot water on the stove. Just make sure it doesn’t touch the bottom of the pot – the bag is heat resistant, but it can melt in extremely high temperatures.

The Quick Mixes aren’t just for beginners. We love using them to make things a little easier and faster. Find a few of our favorite tutorials using Quick Mixes below.

• Orange Spice Hot Process Soap – Beginner
• Menthol Crystal Cold Process Soap – Beginner
• Chopped Embed Cold Process Soap – Intermediate
• Coastal Rain Cold Process Soap – Intermediate
• Rose Clay & Charcoal Cold Process Soap – Intermediate
• Grapefruit LaCroix Cold Process Soap – Advanced
• Cactus Flower Cold Process Soap – Advanced

The post All About Quick Mixes appeared first on Soap Queen.

If you want to customize soap down to the last ingredient, cold process is a great option. You get to choose the oils, colorants, scents, and more. Once you find your perfect recipe you can start getting creative with the designs.

Cold process soap is made by combining oils and sodium hydroxide lye. That causes a chemical reaction called saponification. Melt and pour soap has already gone through that process – learn more about working with it here.

Below you’ll find cold process terms, safety tips, and a list of the equipment you need to get started.

COMMONLY-USED TERMS

Trace: This is the point when the oils and lye water are emulsified. At thin trace, there will be no streaks of oil and the soap will be the consistency of thin cake batter. As the soap sits, it will continue to thicken to medium and thick trace. This video has more information and examples of each stage.

Gel phase: During gel phase, soap gets as hot as 180°F and develops a gelatinous appearance. Learn more in the Jazzed About Gel Phase post. Gelled soap has a brighter color and a slightly shiny appearance. It can also be unmolded more quickly. Some makers force their soap through gel phase with blankets and heating pads. However, gel phase isn’t required – it’s personal preference. It only affects the look of the bars, not the quality. Ungelled soap has a more matte appearance. You can prevent gel phase by putting soap in the freezer for 24 hours. Learn how to force it or prevent it in the When to Insulate Handmade Soap post.

Curing: Technically, cold process soap is safe to use after a few days. However, we recommend letting the soap cure for 4-6 weeks in a cool, dry place with good airflow. Excess water will evaporate, which creates harder and milder bars that last longer in the shower. It’s definitely worth the wait.  

Lye Calculator: This tool makes formulating cold process recipes easy. All you have to do is enter the oil weight or percentage and the Lye Calculator will give you the lye and liquid amount you need for your recipe. It also calculates the superfat level. Learn how to use the Lye Calculator here.

Soda ash: This creates an uneven, white, ashy film on soap. It forms when unsaponified lye reacts with naturally-occurring carbon dioxide in the air. It doesn’t affect the quality and the soap is safe to use. However, it can obscure more intricate designs or make the bars feel crumbly. You can prevent it with a few tricks, including a 10% water discount and gel phase. Learn more in the Explaining and Preventing Soda Ash post.

LYE SAFETY

Lye is a highly corrosive product. It’s safe to use as long as it’s handled properly. Before getting started, make sure to watch this video or read this post about lye safety. Make sure there are no kids, pets, or other distractions in the room when you’re making soap and always do so in a well-ventilated area. You’ll need the following items to work with lye.

Gloves: Rubber dish gloves that go almost to the elbow work great, but they can be bulky. Thinner nitrile or latex gloves provide protection without the bulk. Whatever you choose, they should be paired with long sleeves.

Goggles: Alkali burns are extremely dangerous for your eyes. Your safety goggles should protect them from all sides, so regular glasses aren’t sufficient protection. If you wear glasses, make sure to get goggles that fit over them.

Long sleeves, pants, and close-toed shoes: Protect yourself from unexpected splashes by covering any exposed skin.

Face mask: This is an optional step. If you’re sensitive to lye fumes or if you’re making large batches, you can wear a dust mask.

EQUIPMENT

Any equipment used for soapmaking should be exclusive – don’t use it for food. Lye and fragrance can get stuck in cracks, even with thorough washing. We also recommend hand washing instead of using the dishwasher. Learn more about how to clean soapmaking tools in this post.

Containers: We recommend heat-safe glass, plastic, or stainless steel bowls. Don’t use aluminum – it can react with the lye and create toxic fumes.

Stick/immersion blender: Using a whisk or stand mixer can take hours. Stick blenders emulsify the soap in just a minute or two, so it’s worth the investment.

Silicone spatulas and spoons: Use these to scrape every last bit of soap out of your container and into the mold. They’re also great for smoothing the top or creating texture.

Scale: For accuracy, all of our soap recipes are measured by weight instead of volume. This is a good $20 starter scale.

Soap molds: There are plenty of options to choose from. This post can help you decide which one is right for you.

• Silicone molds: These molds are easy to use, unmold, and clean. They’re a great option for beginner and advanced crafters.
• Wood molds: These are great for large batches and they make it easy to force gel phase. They need to be lined with freezer paper or a silicone liner.
• Plastic molds: You can use these for cold process, but they do require a few extra steps. We recommend a recipe with lots of hard oils and sodium lactate to help the bars come out cleanly and quickly. Get more tips here.

Beginner Recipes
Simple and Gentle Soap
Simple Castile Soap
Menthol Crystal Soap
Simple Coffee Soap
Swirled Rose Soap

Intermediate Recipes
Chopped Embed Soap
Crescent Moon Soap
Swirled Orchid Soap
Pink Salt and Gold Soap
Moonstone Soap

Advanced Recipes
Safflower and Ginger Soap
Siren Soap
Birchwood Oud Soap
Cactus Flower Soap
Chocolate Peppermint Soap Cupcakes

More Cold Process Resources
Common Soapmaking Oils
Formulating Cold Process Recipes
How to Color Handmade Soap
Back to Basics Series Roundup
Using the Bramble Berry Fragrance Calculator

This post was updated in January 2019.

The post Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Cold Process appeared first on Soap Queen.

Rebatch is a technique that involves melting shredded cold process soap and customizing it with additives. This Lingonberry Rebatch Soap is made on the stove top, but you can also use a slow cooker or a double boiler. The key is low and slow heat to prevent burning.

The recipe is scented with a blend of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil and slightly sweeter Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil. Cranberry seeds are added for exfoliation and interest. Rose hips are placed on top to give the bars a finishing touch.

If you’ve never made rebatch soap before, learn how in the Wildflower Rebatch Soap video. In both projects we use the Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap. It’s made in-house with skin-loving ingredients like cocoa butter, shea butter, and mango butter. We recommend using it within 1-2 months. Older soap will need more distilled water and it will take longer to soften.

Lingonberry Rebatch Soap

What You Need:
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
50 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap
4-6 oz. Distilled Water
1 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
0.5 oz. Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil
1 Tbsp. Cranberry Seeds
Rose Hips

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1 ounce of Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil and 0.5 ounces of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil into a glass fragrance oil-safe container. Set aside.

ONE: Place a large sauce pot on the stove and turn the heat onto medium. You can also use a double boiler or a slow cooker.

TWO: Add as much rebatch soap as your pot can comfortably hold – we added about 30 ounces at first. Pour in about 2 ounces of distilled water.

THREE: Allow the soap to heat up and soften. Stir every 30-60 seconds to prevent burning. After a few minutes, the soap will begin to condense into a very thick paste. Add the rest of the rebatch soap and 2-3 ounces of distilled water.

FOUR: As the soap continues to cook, it will become softer. Keep stirring every few minutes.

FIVE: Eventually the soap will take on the texture of very thick mashed potatoes with a slightly glossy look. All the small pieces of rebatch soap should be melted and incorporated.

SIX: Turn off the heat and add the fragrance oil mixture. Stir in thoroughly.

SEVEN: Add 1 tablespoon of cranberry seeds and thoroughly mix in.
NOTE: Feel free to add more seeds if you like a very scrubby bar. You can also use less.

EIGHT: Quickly transfer the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help settle the soap into the mold.

NINE: Use gloved hands to press the top of the soap to give it an even and smooth appearance.

TEN: Working quickly before the soap cools, place rose hips down the length of the mold. Place them where you’d like the middle of the bar to be.

ELEVEN: Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for 24 hours. If the mold pulls away easily from the soap, it’s ready to unmold. If not, let it harden for another day.

TWELVE: Cut into bars. Rebatch soap doesn’t require a 4-6 week cure time like cold process soap does. But allowing the bars to cure for about 2 weeks will ensure extra moisture evaporates, creating a harder and longer-lasting bar. Enjoy.

Print

Lingonberry Rebatch Soap

Course Rebatch Soap

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Servings 3 pounds of soap

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• 10 ″ Silicone Loaf Mold
• 50 oz. Grated Luxury Rebatch Soap
• 4-6 oz. Distilled Water
• 1 oz. Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil
• 0.5 oz. Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil
• 1 Tbsp. Cranberry Seeds
• Rose Hips

Instructions

FRAGRANCE PREP: Measure 1 ounce of Cranberry Fig Fragrance Oil and 0.5 ounces of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil into a glass fragrance oil-safe container. Set aside.

• Place a large sauce pot on the stove and turn the heat onto medium. You can also use a double boiler or a slow cooker.
• Add as much rebatch soap as your pot can comfortably hold – we added about 30 ounces at first. Pour in about 2 ounces of distilled water.
• Allow the soap to heat up and soften. Stir every 30-60 seconds to prevent burning. After a few minutes, the soap will begin to condense into a very thick paste. Add the rest of the rebatch soap and 2-3 ounces of distilled water.
• As the soap continues to cook, it will become softer. Keep stirring every few minutes.
• Eventually the soap will take on the texture of very thick mashed potatoes with a slightly glossy look. All the small pieces of rebatch soap should be melted and incorporated.
• Turn off the heat and add the fragrance oil mixture. Stir in thoroughly.
• Add 1 tablespoon of cranberry seeds and thoroughly mix in. NOTE: Feel free to add more seeds if you like a very scrubby bar. You can also use less.
• Quickly transfer the soap into the mold. Tap the mold firmly on the counter to help settle the soap into the mold.
• Use gloved hands to press the top of the soap to give it an even and smooth appearance.
• Working quickly before the soap cools, place rose hips down the length of the mold. Place them where you’d like the middle of the bar to be.
• Allow the soap to fully cool and harden for 24 hours. If the mold pulls away easily from the soap, it’s ready to unmold. If not, let it harden for another day.
• Cut into bars. Rebatch soap doesn’t require a 4-6 week cure time like cold process soap does. But allowing the bars to cure for about 2 weeks will ensure extra moisture evaporates, creating a harder and longer-lasting bar. Enjoy.

The post Lingonberry Rebatch Soap appeared first on Soap Queen.

You can use almost any small glass container to make these Beeswax & Honey Candles. That includes food jars, Mason jars, or empty candle containers. Just save any that look like the perfect size and give them a thorough wash. It’s a great way to reuse glass containers and candles are a perfect gift.

All you need from there is beeswax, wicks, and Pure Honey Fragrance Oil. The notes of honey, rose, and peach tea are the perfect complement to the natural smoky smell of beeswax. The wood wicks give the candles a rustic look and a comforting crackling sound as they burn.

Beeswax is a hard, dense wax that has a high melting point. It needs a large flame to create an even burn pool. We recommend making these candles in containers that have a diameter of about 3″ or less. In our tests, the wide wood wicks worked well for containers with a diameter of about 2.5″ and smaller. Other large wicks, like the Wu-250 Brown Cotton Candle Wicks or the Cd-20 Wicks, also work well. 

The amount of beeswax and fragrance you need for this project will depend on the size and quantity of your containers. To estimate how much wax you need, put your containers on a scale and fill them with water. Add up the total weight of the water – that will give you a rough estimate of how much wax to melt. Then, use the Fragrance Calculator to find out how much scent to use. We recommend using the strong recommendation so the scent fills the room.

The hardest part of this project is probably the cleanup. Beeswax can be a pain to clean off bowls, containers, and mixing utensils. If possible, have a bowl and mixing tool that’s just for wax. If that’s not an option, the easiest way to clean bowls is while the wax is still warm – wipe off as much as possible with a paper towel before washing it with very hot water and strong dish soap.

What You Need:
Small Glass Containers
Yellow Beeswax 
Pure Honey Fragrance Oil
Wide Wooden Wicks
NOTE: Other large wicks like the Wu-250 Brown Cotton Candle Wicks or Cd-20 Wicks work as well

NOTE: You can melt beeswax a few different ways – we recommend using a double boiler. It’s possible to melt it in the microwave, but because beeswax has a high melting point it takes a long time to melt. The container needs to be very heat resistant so it won’t break.

PREPARE WICKS: Insert the wood wicks into the metal clip. Place the wick into the containers and cut the wick to the length necessary for each container. If you’re using a traditional wick, cut the wicks to the length necessary for each container.

ONE: Set up your double boiler and bring the water to boil. Place the smaller container over the water.

TWO: Weigh how much beeswax you need to fill your containers. To estimate how much wax you need, put your containers on a scale and fill them with water. Add up the total weight of the water – that will give you a rough estimate of how much wax to melt.

THREE: Melt the wax slowly. Don’t allow it to exceed about 170° F, or it can start to lose its aroma.

FOUR: Once the wax is completely melted, turn off the double boiler and remove the smaller container of wax. Add the Pure Honey Fragrance Oil and stir in thoroughly.
NOTE: Pure Honey Fragrance Oil has a flashpoint of 200° F+. In general, it’s recommended that fragrance is poured into wax that has cooled below the flashpoint of the fragrance oil. We poured in the fragrance when the wax was around 150° F. 

FIVE: Carefully pour the wax into each container. We transferred it to an Easy Pour Mixing and Measuring Container to help.
TIP: Pouring the wax into the container with the wick already placed in the candle helps ensure you don’t pour too much and cover the top of the wick. Once the wax is poured, the wick can be moved and centered.

SIX: Allow the candles to fully cool and harden. If there are a few air bubbles or imperfections on the top of your candle, use a heat gun to carefully melt the top layer and allow it to cool again.
NOTE: We found the wood wicks eventually begin to burn slightly with a lot of high heat from the gun. 

SEVEN: Allow the candles to fully cool and harden. Light the wick and enjoy!

Print

Beeswax & Honey Candles

You can use almost any small glass container to make these Beeswax & Honey Candles.

Course Candles

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• Small Glass Containers
• Yellow Beeswax
• Pure Honey Fragrance Oil
• Wide Wooden Wicks Wu-250 Brown Cotton Candle Wicks, or Cd-20 Wicks

Instructions

NOTE: You can melt beeswax a few different ways – we recommend using a double boiler. It’s possible to melt it in the microwave, but because beeswax has a high melting point it takes a long time to melt. The container needs to be very heat resistant so it won’t break.

PREPARE WICKS: Insert the wood wicks into the metal clip. Place the wick into the containers and cut the wick to the length necessary for each container. If you’re using a traditional wick, cut the wicks to the length necessary for each container.

• Set up your double boiler and bring the water to boil. Place the smaller container over the water.
• Weigh how much beeswax you need to fill your containers. To estimate how much wax you need, put your containers on a scale and fill them with water. Add up the total weight of the water – that will give you a rough estimate of how much wax to melt.
• Melt the wax slowly. Don’t allow it to exceed about 170° F, or it can start to lose its aroma.
• Once the wax is completely melted, turn off the double boiler and remove the smaller container of wax. Add the Pure Honey Fragrance Oil and stir in thoroughly. NOTE: Pure Honey Fragrance Oil has a flashpoint of 200° F+. In general, it’s recommended that fragrance is poured into wax that has cooled below the flashpoint of the fragrance oil. We poured in the fragrance when the wax was around 150° F.
• Carefully pour the wax into each container. We transferred it to an Easy Pour Mixing and Measuring Container to help. TIP: Pouring the wax into the container with the wick already placed in the candle helps ensure you don’t pour too much and cover the top of the wick. Once the wax is poured, the wick can be moved and centered.
• Allow the candles to fully cool and harden. If there are a few air bubbles or imperfections on the top of your candle, use a heat gun to carefully melt the top layer and allow it to cool again. NOTE: We found the wood wicks eventually begin to burn slightly with a lot of high heat from the gun.
• Allow the candles to fully cool and harden. Light the wick and enjoy!

The post Beeswax & Honey Candles appeared first on Soap Queen.

There are a few factors to consider before formulating cold process soap recipes. From the Common Soapmaking Oils post to the Back to Basics Series, we’ve got plenty of resources to help you get started.

You can never go wrong with a 34/33/33 ratio. That’s 34% olive oil, 33% coconut oil, and 33% palm oil. They’re commonly used because they complement each other well. Palm oil acts as a secondary lathering agent and hardens the soap, coconut oil is cleansing and produces big bubbles, and olive oil is moisturizing and gives bars a silky feeling. If you don’t want to use palm oil, learn more about alternatives here.

Another standard recipe is the 30/30/30/10. That’s 30% olive oil, 30% coconut oil, 30% palm oil, and 10% of something special – rice bran oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, or mango butter are all good options. The additional oils and butters each add a unique feeling to the recipe. 

To create your own recipe, start by choosing your base oils. You can use each one around 20-30%. For the remaining portion, consider what you’d like the bar to feel like. Do you want it to be super moisturizing, have a nice thick lather, or to be hard and long lasting? Then, check out Common Soapmaking Oils. It lists the properties and usage rates of the oils so you can choose the right one for your recipe.

There are a few general rules that make formulating recipes easier.

• Oils that are liquid at room temperature tend to trace more slowly. A high percentage in your recipe is great for intricate designs. The soap will take longer to harden in the mold and it will feel softer than a recipe with a high percentage of hard oils.
• Hard oils – the ones that are solid at room temperature – trace more quickly. The soap will unmold faster and the bars will feel firmer than a recipe with a lot of liquid oil.
• Any soap can be made with just one oil, but the only ones we recommend using up to 100% are olive oil or coconut oil. The others can feel too sticky, too hard, etc. Learn more in the Single Oil Cold Process Soap Lather Tests. Most recipes are a combination of hard and soft oils.
• If you want to create hard bars without palm oil, check out Palm Oil Alternatives in Cold Process Soap.
• You can substitute oils in your cold process recipe. For instance, canola or rice bran can be used in place of olive oil. Learn more in the Substituting Oils post.

While we do our best to formulate a recipe so we can predict exactly how it will behave, there are an unlimited number of variables that can lead to unexpected results. The best way to find out what works for you is to experiment. Start with these rules and then adjust based on your personal preferences.

Here are a few tried-and-true recipes we love. They’re superfatted at 5%.

Old Faithful
This one is simple and reliable, so it’s great for beginners. The castor oil gives it a luscious lather. The recipe is similar to our Lots of Lather Quick Mix.

Old Faithful with a Twist
This is a fairly standard recipe with a few moisturizing extras like sweet almond oil and mango butter. Shea butter in place of mango feels lovely as well.

25% Coconut Oil
25% Palm Oil
30% Olive Oil
15% Sweet Almond Oil
5% Mango Butter

Perfectly Palm Free
This is a wonderfully slow-moving recipe that’s great for intricate designs.

15% Coconut Oil
30% Canola Oil
25% Rice Bran Oil
15% Shea Butter
10% Avocado Oil
5% Chia Seed Oil

Beautiful Swirls
This option is great for more than just swirls – you can use it for other intricate designs like layers and embeds. It’s similar to the Swirl Quick Mix.

20% Coconut Oil
30% Palm Oil
20% Canola Oil
4% Castor Oil
6% Hazelnut Oil
10% Rice Bran Oil
10% Sunflower Oil

This post was updated in November 2018.

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If your skin is extremely dry, moisturizing products like body butter and lotion bars work wonders. These body butter sticks are made with a combination of nourishing avocado butter, sweet almond oil, and oat oil. Beeswax helps them harden and protects the skin. They are lightly scented with warm and inviting Cashmere Fragrance Oil. With notes of white magnolia and violet, it’s perfect for leave-on products.

Once mixed together, the recipe is poured into twist tubes. They’re easy to use – first ensure the clear cap at the top is in place, then secure it by twisting on the top firmly. Flip the tube over and pour the mixture into the hole in the bottom. Allow to cool and secure the bottom with the base.

Allow the body butter to cool and harden for several hours or up to overnight before removing the clear cap. If it’s removed too early, it could stick. When you’re ready to use, twist up the body butter and apply to dry skin.

To give the twist tubes a polished look that’s ready to give, download the Body Butter Stick Labels. It’s a free PDF that can be printed on label paper. The document includes both the black and gray versions, so you can choose the color combination you prefer.

Hydrating Body Butter Sticks

What You Need:
About 10 Twist Tubes (white or black)
3.5 oz. Avocado Butter
3 oz. White Beeswax
2.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
1 oz. Oat Oil
0.2 oz. Cashmere Fragrance Oil

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

ONE: In a heat-safe container, add 1 ounce of oat oil, 3.5 ounces of avocado butter, 3 ounces of white beeswax, and 2.5 ounces of sweet almond oil. Place the container in the microwave and melt using 30-60 second bursts. The beeswax will take longer to melt than the other ingredients. Use caution when removing the container from the microwave – it will be hot.

TWO: Add 0.2 ounces of Cashmere Fragrance Oil and use a spoon to thoroughly stir in.

THREE: Make sure the clear cap is on the tube and screw the top securely. Flip over, then pull off the base cap and pour in the mixture.

TIP: If you overfill the twist tubes, you can use a dropper to remove the excess oil. 

FOUR: Allow the product to fully set, then press the base cap in securely and enjoy.

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Hydrating Body Butter Sticks

If your skin is extremely dry, this recipe will work wonders. It's made with a combination of nourishing avocado butter, sweet almond oil, and oat oil.

Course Body Butter Stick

Cook Time 20 minutes minutes

Total Time 20 minutes minutes

Servings 10 sticks

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• About 10 Twist Tubes white or black
• 3.5 oz. Avocado Butter
• 3 oz. White Beeswax
• 2.5 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
• 1 oz. Oat Oil
• 0.2 oz. Cashmere Fragrance Oil

Instructions

• In a heat-safe container, add 1 ounce of oat oil, 3.5 ounces of avocado butter, 3 ounces of white beeswax, and 2.5 ounces of sweet almond oil. Place the container in the microwave and melt using 30-60 second bursts. The beeswax will take longer to melt than the other ingredients. Use caution when removing the container from the microwave – it will be hot.
• Add 0.2 ounces of Cashmere Fragrance Oil and use a spoon to thoroughly stir in.
• Make sure the clear cap is on the tube and screw the top securely. Flip over, then pull off the base cap and pour in the mixture. TIP: If you overfill the twist tubes, you can use a dropper to remove the excess oil.
• Allow the product to fully set, then press the base cap in securely and enjoy.

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Treat your skin with this whipped Cashmere Sugar Body Scrub. Granulated sugar exfoliates skin while the Foaming Bath Butter cleanses. Oat oil and liquid cashmere keep your skin feeling smooth and hydrated.

The scrub is scented with new Cashmere Fragrance Oil, which is a complex blend of magnolia, blueberry, white freesia, and violet. It’s part of the limited edition Hygge Fragrance Collection, which includes five new scents that are perfect for holiday projects.

Once all the ingredients are mixed and whipped together, we scooped it into a variety of jars including the new 8 oz. Lidded Glass Jars. The scrub also looks great in Mason jars. The exact number of jars you need will vary slightly depending on how much you whip the Foaming Bath Butter. To finish the scrub, download and print the free Cashmere Body Scrub Labels – the document includes cigar band labels and hanging tags.

Cashmere Sugar Body Scrub

What You Need:
Cashmere Body Scrub Labels
About four 8 oz. Lidded Glass Jars
32 oz. Foaming Bath Butter
1 oz. Oat Oil
0.3 oz. Liquid Cashmere
0.7 oz. Cashmere Fragrance Oil
20 oz. Granulated Sugar

Click below to add everything you need for this project to your Bramble Berry shopping cart!

 ONE: Add 32 ounces of Foaming Bath Butter to a large mixing bowl. Turn your mixer on low and break up the clumps of Foaming Bath Butter. Increase the speed and continue to whip until the butter is soft and there are no large chunks.

TWO: Add 1 ounce of oat oil. Turn your mixer on low to slowly incorporate the oil. Once it’s mostly incorporated, increase the speed and continue to whip the ingredients for about 30-60 seconds.

THREE: Add 0.3 ounces of liquid cashmere and 0.7 ounces of Cashmere Fragrance Oil. Whip until they’re completely combined. The mixture should be smooth and slightly fluffy.

FOUR: Add 10 ounces of granulated sugar and whip. Add another 10 ounces of sugar and continue to mix. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula and continue to whip until all the ingredients are completely incorporated.
NOTE: If you’d like, feel free to add more sugar. This amount gives a gentle exfoliation, but you can add more if you prefer. 

FIVE: Scoop the scrub into the jars (or any other containers you prefer). We filled about four jars with a little bit left over. Store in a cool and dry place. To use, apply to wet skin and scrub. Wash off. Enjoy!

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Cashmere Sugar Body Scrub

This Cashmere Body Scrub is so easy to make. Just add the ingredients to a bowl, whip to combine, spoon into jars, and enjoy.

Course Scrub

Cook Time 30 minutes minutes

Total Time 30 minutes minutes

Author Bramble Berry

Ingredients

• Cashmere Body Scrub Labels
• About four 8 oz. Lidded Glass Jars
• 32 oz. Foaming Bath Butter
• 1 oz. Oat Oil
• 0.3 oz. Liquid Cashmere
• 0.7 oz. Cashmere Fragrance Oil
• 20 oz. Granulated Sugar

Instructions

• Add 32 ounces of Foaming Bath Butter to a large mixing bowl. Turn your mixer on low and break up the clumps of Foaming Bath Butter. Increase the speed and continue to whip until the butter is soft and there are no large chunks.
• Add 1 ounce of oat oil. Turn your mixer on low to slowly incorporate the oil. Once it’s mostly incorporated, increase the speed and continue to whip the ingredients for about 30-60 seconds.
• Add 0.3 ounces of liquid cashmere and 0.7 ounces of Cashmere Fragrance Oil. Whip until they’re completely combined. The mixture should be smooth and slightly fluffy.
• Add 10 ounces of granulated sugar and whip. Add another 10 ounces of sugar and continue to mix. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula and continue to whip until all the ingredients are completely incorporated.
• Scoop the scrub into the jars (or any other containers you prefer). We filled about four jars with a little bit left over. Store in a cool and dry place. To use, apply to wet skin and scrub. Wash off. Enjoy!

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